I realized my reply spent more time talking about pressure fermentation than dry hopping itself. Here are the different ways I dry hop, based on which fermentation vessel I'm using:
1. X1 Uni+ Conical with Collection Bottle on the bottom. When ready to dry hop, I close the bottom dump valve, remove the collection bottle (messy) and dump the collected fermentation debris, sanitize, then fill it with my dry hops. I re-attach to the fermentor, but before opening the dump valve (to send dry hops up into the beer), I pressurize the collection ball with bottled CO2 via pressurization cap and vent 4x. I leave the collection ball pressurized, then I open the dump valve and hops get jettisoned into the beer.
2. X1 Unit+ Conical with Brewers Hardware Dry Hopper on top. I fill the Dry Hopper with hops, with the ball valve closed that leads through the lid into the fermentor. Same pressurize with CO2 and purge 4x, leave it pressurized, then dump the hops into the beer.
After the above two methods, since I have a cooling rod in there, after 1-2 days of dry hops sitting in there, I start circulating cooling water to get the beer to ~50F. This happens pretty quickly and helps consolidate the hop solids at the bottom. When I do pressurized closed transfer out, it is via a floating dip tube, so it pulls off the bottom. The brief 50F chill helps get me pretty good transfers into my cold crash keg without much debris.
3. FermZilla All Rounder with Pressure Kit. The fermentor is around 1-2 psi at end of fermenation due to Spunding. I vent that (it's low enough pressure to not cause an internal eruption), remove the lid, and drop in the dry hops. I then do the pressurized fill with CO2 & purge head space. I recall reading Blichmann website about study where air/CO2 MIX QUICKLY when you open fermentor, but Oxygen ABSORBS SLOWLY. So with this brief lid opening exposure, my approach is to purge the mixed headspace right away as best I can. On this setup, whole fermentor goes into cold crash fridge so I don't have to do any cooling water effort to get hops to drop before transfer.
4. FermZilla All Rounder with Pressure Kit x2. I have 3 of these fermentors (for split batch experiments). I have done this method once (currently finishing dry hopping). ~2 Days after beer starts fermenting, I connect the Gas fitting on the fermenting beer to the liquid fitting on an empty sanitized FermZilla. I put the dry hops in the empty FermZilla and close the lid and set Spunding to 1-2 psi. The CO2 produced from the fermenting beer gets pushed through the liquid dip tube on the dry hop Fermzilla, and then bubbles out through the gas port. Once fermentation is done, closed transfer from one to the other via the liquid posts. Since the transfer is done via floating dip tube, the yeast cake is left behind in the first fermentor and I have just beer, dry hops, and CO2 in the other. I then can shake and agitate this up without fear of intermixing oxygen, and agitation supposedly leads to faster dry hop absorption in the beer. After 1-2 days, I will put in cold crash fridge to get hop debris collected at bottom, and 3 days later transfer into serving keg.