Water Report

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Cloud Surfer

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Would someone care to take a look at my water report and offer some opinions. I'm just starting out on the water journey, and would like to know how my water looks. Really interested if possible in what beers this water is most suited to 'as is'.

I enjoy and make a lot of Imperial Stouts, Barley Wines and Belgians. I've just been taking a stab at some water additions up until now, but want to get a little more precise. Just bought Bru'n Water but haven't used it yet. Cheers
 

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Primary brewing related data points:

Calcium 11 ppm
Chloride 42 ppm
Magnesium 5.3 ppm
Sodium 24.2 ppm
Sulfate 30 ppm
Zinc .5 ppb
pH 7.4
Hardness as Calcium Carbonate 51 (but as noted, can vary from 16 to 103 ppm)

Optional inputs to Bru'n Water:

Iron .01
Fluoride .99 ppm
Nitrates .09 ppm
Nitrites .01 ppm
Potassium 2.4 ppm

So the weak part in the report is nailing down the residual alkalinity - that's a huge range to account for. That said, even the worst of the readings is still fairly "soft". If you plug those numbers into Bru'n Water "Water Report" sheet you'll have a solid start and should be able to brew most any style of beer...

Cheers!


Water Report.jpg
 
Thanks. So Bru'n water can do a water report for me. That sounds pretty good. Now just have to find the time to get it up and running.
Bru'n Water does not do a "water report." It allows to to use your water report data to estimate mash pH for different grain bills, and see the effect of different water additions on the mash pH. It offers guidance on acceptable ion ranges for different styles.

Brew on :mug:
 
As regards RA, achieving the nigh-on mystical state of zero RA (zero Residual Alkalinity) accomplishes (AFAICT) only one thing. I.E., it allows calcium and magnesium mineralized water which also contains Alkalinity to behave just as if it was deionized water with regard to its effect upon pH shift during the mash.

But RA as established by Kolbach was measured at Knockout, and not during the mash (as confirmed first by Kai Troester, and then by A.J. deLange). A.J. deLange realized via actual mash pH measurement that only about 50% of the impact of Kolbach (I.E., of the downward shift in mash pH) is witnessed within the calcium and magnesium mineralized mash proper.

Therefore:

1) If A.J. deLange is correct, the following additions will get 5 gallons of your water to zero Residual Alkalinity within the mash while simultaneously balancing your sulfate and chloride ions:

1.67 grams Gypsum
1.46 grams Calcium Chloride (as the Dihydrate) [or 1.10 grams if Anhydrous]

2) If however the highly typical misapplication of Kolbach's achievement in this area to the mash is correct, the following additions will get 5 gallons of your water to zero Residual Alkalinity within the mash while simultaneously balancing your sulfate and chloride ions:

0.65 grams Gypsum
0.28 grams Calcium Chloride (as the Dihydrate) [or 0.21 grams if Anhydrous]

RA as it exists today is merely a contrived fantasy that depends upon what Kolbach measured with regard to mineral impact upon downward pH shift specifically at knockout happening in total (and instead) within the mash. But for the case of mashing at a room temperature targeted pH of ~5.40 (+/- 0.20) it is clear that pH does fall additionally across the boil, yet in order to apply Kolbach to the mash (without modification, such as I did above within the second mineralization of the two) one is forced to deny that additional pH drop will occur during the boil. My advice is therefore to totally ignore RA unless you know how to modify it so as to conform with A.J. deLange. RA is completely unnecessary (and thereby effectively as well as factually useless) to the determination of accurate mash pH prediction anyway.
 
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I'd totally ignore anything telling me to add stuff to my water.

If my resulting beers tasted bad, and I could find something that specifically said that taste was due to something I didn't do to my water, then I'll start adding that complication of being a chemist to my brew days.
 
Thanks guys for your input. I’ll get Bru’n water running and go from there.

Or any other solid brewing water "adjustment" tool. Like Mash Made Easy, for instance.

I use Bru'n Water because that's what I started with, it seems to work well, and I'm old and don't adjust well to change...

Cheers ;)
 
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