Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone

[Ruckusz28]

Alter Ego certainly has a lot of Mosaic in it. I don't think that rules out Julius having mosaic, but it most likely isn't used in large amounts. I swore that Julius didn't have any, but then though that I tasted some in it after drinking an Alter Ego on the same day.

I don't know about the aroma thing, when I pour a can of Treehouse IPA, the whole room smells like hops.

Unfortunately, I've never experienced that outside of any beers that I've brewed myself. Then again, I haven't been able to acquire any Julius since last year. The mule scene over there is unbelievable.

 

[stickyfinger]

I don't mean to thread-jack here, but this works?
Wife informed me today we're hosting holiday party on Saturday. I have two batches of home brew ready for keg and I've always used slow-and-steady carbonation method.

just hook it up at 35-40 psi for 24 hrs assuming cold beer at the start. If warm at first, you need an extra 12-18 hrs.

 

[TheHairyHop]

Unfortunately, I've never experienced that outside of any beers that I've brewed myself. Then again, I haven't been able to acquire any Julius since last year. The mule scene over there is unbelievable.

It really is a bit much. I live an hour away and a good buddy of mine lives in Sturbridge. It makes for a fine Friday evening.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Hey red, where you from? redline is a few miles from my house.

West of Saginaw. Redline is a cool place, Doug showed me around when I went there the first time.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

I don't mean to thread-jack here, but this works?
Wife informed me today we're hosting holiday party on Saturday. I have two batches of home brew ready for keg and I've always used slow-and-steady carbonation method.

Hook it up at 10-12psi and purge the 02. Crank it up to 30psi and shake it for a few minutes, 5 minutes would probably get you carbed in 24 hours pretty easy. I unhook overnight, purge pressure in the morning, and hook up to serving pressure.

 

[doublebogey10]

Hook it up at 10-12psi and purge the 02. Crank it up to 30psi and shake it for a few minutes, 5 minutes would probably get you carbed in 24 hours pretty easy. I unhook overnight, purge pressure in the morning, and hook up to serving pressure.

Thank you. And thanks, Stickyfibger.

Did this tonight.

 

[doublebogey10]

As a West Coaster who is interested in the style, I'm subscribed to this and other threads on NE IPAs and similar.

I recommend the Brewing Networks Sunday Session podcast with Brulosophy (Nov. 21). Some interesting notes there.

 

[stickyfinger]

As a West Coaster who is interested in the style, I'm subscribed to this and other threads on NE IPAs and similar.

I recommend the Brewing Networks Sunday Session podcast with Brulosophy (Nov. 21). Some interesting notes there.

Did he do a mini-XBMT on the Session guys with an NE IPA XBMT?

 

[doublebogey10]

Did he do a mini-XBMT on the Session guys with an NE IPA XBMT?

Yes. Specifically related to use of oats. No real evidence that oats affect anything but color.

 

[stickyfinger]

Yes. Specifically related to use of oats. No real evidence that oats affect anything but color.

i can see that. i wasn't blown away with my 80% flaked oats IPA

EDIT: I meant to say 20% flaked oats!

 

[Ruckusz28]

i can see that. i wasn't blown away with my 80% flaked oats IPA

80% Flaked Oats!?!!?!?!

 

[stickyfinger]

80% Flaked Oats!?!!?!?!

Sorry, I meant 20% oats. Too early in the morning, brain not functioning, reboot.

 

[lilbova3]

I just brewed a beer with 11% Carapils to see how that helps mouthfeel. Did:

65% Pale Ale Malt
11% Flaked Oats
11% White Wheat
11% Carapils
2% Honey Malt

I've gone as high as 30% flaked adjunct and while I've liked the beers I still wanted more mouthfeel. Maybe 11% Carapils will help.

 

[Little_Lebowski]

Pet peeve of mine growing larger by the day... FLAKED OATS DO NOT EQUAL MALTED OATS PEOPLE!! Let's start getting this right. I see too many people discussing "oats" in their beer and assume they're discussing flaked oats. These oat IPAs and New England Style IPAs using oats for haze, body and vehicles for hop oils to latch on are MALTED OATS. This is not saying that there aren't FLAKED OATS in the recipe also but we need to remember to separate the two.

 

[stickyfinger]

Pet peeve of mine growing larger by the day... FLAKED OATS DO NOT EQUAL MALTED OATS PEOPLE!! Let's start getting this right. I see too many people discussing "oats" in their beer and assume they're discussing flaked oats. These oat IPAs and New England Style IPAs using oats for haze, body and vehicles for hop oils to latch on are MALTED OATS. This is not saying that there aren't FLAKED OATS in the recipe also but we need to remember to separate the two.

Huh, I think we're aware they are different. Thanks. I read an article from one of the NE IPA breweries and they said they used to use flaked oats but then switched to malted oats as they are easier to use and he said the aroma was fantastic.

 

[Gustatorian]

Pet peeve of mine growing larger by the day... FLAKED OATS DO NOT EQUAL MALTED OATS PEOPLE!! Let's start getting this right. I see too many people discussing "oats" in their beer and assume they're discussing flaked oats. These oat IPAs and New England Style IPAs using oats for haze, body and vehicles for hop oils to latch on are MALTED OATS. This is not saying that there aren't FLAKED OATS in the recipe also but we need to remember to separate the two.

Is there difference in regards to hop oils latching onto flaked vs malted? Do they not yield the same haze and body?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

Is there difference in regards to hop oils latching onto flaked vs malted? Do they not yield the same haze and body?

Major difference. flaked contribute to body and head retention and, from my experiments add nothing to "haze" per se or dey hop assistance... where malted oats contribute a grainy, protein rich, minimal sweetness malt profile that is a great choice to cut your main base malt with

 

[Gustatorian]

Major difference. flaked contribute to body and head retention and, from my experiments add nothing to "haze" per se or dey hop assistance... where malted oats contribute a grainy, protein rich, minimal sweetness malt profile that is a great choice to cut your main base malt with

I know there is some debate on what causes the actual haze in NE IPAs, but is it safe to say that one should split the oats of the grist into flaked oats to get the body/head retention/mouth feel and malted oats to get the haziness and hop assistance?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

I know there is some debate on what causes the actual haze in NE IPAs, but is it safe to say that one should split the oats of the grist into flaked oats to get the body/head retention/mouth feel and malted oats to get the haziness and hop assistance?

No... IMO the flaked oats quickly hit the diminished returns wall and shouldn't get above that 1lb mark for typical IPAs and DIPAs. Your focus should be on the ratio of base malt/oat malt. 80/20 is a great place to start. I've brewed a few 50/50 myself but feel it almost cuts too much of the sweetness out to balance the heavy handed late hopping and it tends to turn out a tad bitter

 

[stickyfinger]

Major difference. flaked contribute to body and head retention and, from my experiments add nothing to "haze" per se or dey hop assistance... where malted oats contribute a grainy, protein rich, minimal sweetness malt profile that is a great choice to cut your main base malt with

Actually, flaked oats seem to decrease head retention due to the oil content, and the recent Brulosophy XBMT indicates they have little impact on body. I plan to stop using rolled oats in my IPAs.

 

[stickyfinger]

I know there is some debate on what causes the actual haze in NE IPAs, but is it safe to say that one should split the oats of the grist into flaked oats to get the body/head retention/mouth feel and malted oats to get the haziness and hop assistance?

If you like the flavor of oat malt then use it. If you don't, then don't. The major contributor to haze in these beers is most likely:

early on - suspended yeast and hop particles
middle age - diminishing yeast and dry hop haze
late age - lingering dry hop haze

I've gotten huge haze with no oats and with 20% flaked oats. i've gotten huge haze with different yeast strains. the hops are key I think. If you dry hop with copious quantities of hops, you will have haze. Hopstands at certain temps will also contribute to haze I think.

 

[Gustatorian]

No... IMO the flaked oats quickly hit the diminished returns wall and shouldn't get above that 1lb mark for typical IPAs and DIPAs. Your focus should be on the ratio of base malt/oat malt. 80/20 is a great place to start. I've brewed a few 50/50 myself but feel it almost cuts too much of the sweetness out to balance the heavy handed late hopping and it tends to turn out a tad bitter

So the 20% malted oats you're using help with hop oils in some way? What flavors are you getting from the malted oats at 20%?

 

[Little_Lebowski]

I've personally noticed that the proteins in suspension from using a healthy amount of wheat or oat malt keep the hoppiness and oils in suspension for longer. As things start settling out in the keg over about two weeks or so and the appearance starts to clear a bit I notice it direct correlates with a decreased hoppiness. And I don't attribute this to oxygen as I use a closed system and CO2 transfer from fermenter to keg

 

[stickyfinger]

I've personally noticed that the proteins in suspension from using a healthy amount of wheat or oat malt keep the hoppiness and oils in suspension for longer. As things start settling out in the keg over about two weeks or so and the appearance starts to clear a bit I notice it direct correlates with a decreased hoppiness. And I don't attribute this to oxygen as I use a closed system and CO2 transfer from fermenter to keg

I have wondered about this a lot. I have 4 IPAs, one in the keg 2 weeks, two in the keg 1 day and one still in primary, that don't have any wheat or oats of any kind. I am anxious to see if the haziness and hop flavor dissipate more quickly or more thoroughly. My last IPA, now deceased, was 80% Pearl and 20% flaked oats. It was very hazy up to about 6 weeks when I pulled the last pint and was still very hoppy.

 

[Little_Lebowski]

And of course I'm not saying this is the sole responsibility for haze and hoppiness but that it's just one contributing factor. I've really been doing a lot of dry hopping 3/4 of the way through active fermentation as well and want to start testing the effects of elevated chloride levels

 

[stickyfinger]

And of course I'm not saying this is the sole responsibility for haze and hoppiness but that it's just one contributing factor. I've really been doing a lot of dry hopping 3/4 of the way through active fermentation as well

There was an article floating around about some Portland, OR brewer who was claiming the proteins from flaked grains was part of the haze-factor in NE IPA. I'm not sue if that was just his opinion or if it was backed up by some testing. My current IPAs should give me some insight into that for my process at least. I am hoping I can just ditch the flaked grains or oats/wheat and still get long-lasting hoppy beer. I am looking for ways to increase the body even more though.

I was wondering if adding a very small amount of dark malt might help the body. Seems like my dark beers always seem to have pretty good body, but they also have a ton of dark malt. I know dark malts help with beer foam, and I suspect body as well.

 

[doublebogey10]

How quickly can you from grain to glass on this style?

 

[skibb]

8 days?

Ferment to terminal by day 4.
Dry hop on day 3.
Crash on Day 5.
Transfer/carbonate on day 8.

I've never tried to turn a beer around this fast but I have heard of breweries like Other Half pulling this off (this is from an industry source that has done several collabs with them).

 

[stickyfinger]

8 days?

Ferment to terminal by day 4.
Dry hop on day 3.
Crash on Day 5.
Transfer/carbonate on day 8.

I've never tried to turn a beer around this fast but I have heard of breweries like Other Half pulling this off (this is from an industry source that has done several collabs with them).

I was also going to say about a week depending on how fast your yeast is, especially if you primary dry hop

 

[Little_Lebowski]

How quickly can you from grain to glass on this style?

I brewed the BYO recipe which turned out super solid and easily drinkable by day 10. Kegged at 25psi on day 8

 

[karch1967]

LL - On the BYO recipe did you leave the hops in the keg or transfer to a new keg for carbonation? I close transferred it to the spunding keg 2 days ago and am debating transferring it to a clean keg for carbonation or just leaving the hops in and carbonating. Thx!!

 

[Trillium]

I made an IPA with Cascade, Amarillo and Citra and it's pretty damn good. I used an once of each at 30, 10, whirlpool, and dry hop. Pretty close in my opinion, but I'm going to have my friend try it since he said Julius is the best beer he ever had.

 

[Little_Lebowski]

LL - On the BYO recipe did you leave the hops in the keg or transfer to a new keg for carbonation? I close transferred it to the spunding keg 2 days ago and am debating transferring it to a clean keg for carbonation or just leaving the hops in and carbonating. Thx!!

Honestly I've always hopped in the primary with pellets. And for this style I like to get half the hops in while fermentation is slowing to a stop but still yeast in suspension. If I would crash it and transfer to keg hop I wouldn't get any of that yeast hop interaction. So... I dry hop in primary and then close transfer with a rubber bung I rigged up to siphon with co2 pressure.

 

[balvey]

could someone post the page that has the actual recipe on it from this thread?

 

[karch1967]

Brewed the BYO recipe about 2 1/2 weeks ago and it came out pretty good, color and haze was pretty close to Julius, taste good but closer to grapefruit than orange. I dry hopped using a canister in the keg w/a spunding valve and closed transferred to another keg. Canister didn't work too well, hops swelled up and became one giant plug. Didn't get much for hop aroma, next time I'm skipping the canister and will add more dry hops during and after fermentation.

 

[stickyfinger]

Brewed the BYO recipe about 2 1/2 weeks ago and it came out pretty good, color and haze was pretty close to Julius, taste good but closer to grapefruit than orange. I dry hopped using a canister in the keg w/a spunding valve and closed transferred to another keg. Canister didn't work too well, hops swelled up and became one giant plug. Didn't get much for hop aroma, next time I'm skipping the canister and will add more dry hops during and after fermentation.

I much prefer just adding more hops to primary dry-hop and then not adding any to the keg. I don't like the keg-hop character as much.

 

[Korx]

I ferment in a ss brewtech 1/2bbl chronical. Would you say cold crashing and dumping trub/yeast before dry hopping the right move? Then crashing and dumping again after the dry hop and transferring into the serving keg? I'm hearing both ways as I read the forums.

 

[stickyfinger]

I ferment in a as brewtech 1/2bbl chronical. Would you say cold crashing and dumping trub/yeast before dry hopping the right move? Then crashing and dumping again after the dry hop and transferring into the serving keg? I'm hearing both ways as I read the forums.

Many of us just dry hop in the primary when the yeast are still active. It has worked well for many of us. No need to dump yeast. not sure how you rack with the chonical, through the bottom valve? if so, you can dryhop and then chill down and dump if needed, then drain off the beer after 24-72 hrs.

 

[Trillium]

I ferment in a as brewtech 1/2bbl chronical. Would you say cold crashing and dumping trub/yeast before dry hopping the right move? Then crashing and dumping again after the dry hop and transferring into the serving keg? I'm hearing both ways as I read the forums.

I have the same fermenter. If you want to harvest the yeast, do it before dry hopping. I usually dump it anyway since I heard a lot of breweries do this to avoid autolysis flavours. When I dry hop I bubble some co2 from the bottom after day one to mix the hops back up into the beer. I find I get way more hop aroma and flavour by doing this. Don't leave the beer on the hops to long or you will starting getting vegative flavours, so dump after 4-5 days. I then lower the temp to 34 deg F for a week before keging.

 

[Gustatorian]

I have the same fermenter. If you want to harvest the yeast, do it before dry hopping. I usually dump it anyway since I heard a lot of breweries do this to avoid autolysis flavours. When I dry hop I bubble some co2 from the bottom after day one to mix the hops back up into the beer. I find I get way more hop aroma and flavour by doing this. Don't leave the beer on the hops to long or you will starting getting vegative flavours, so dump after 4-5 days. I then lower the temp to 34 deg F for a week before keging.

How exactly are you bubbling CO2 into the Chronical? I always worry about making a huge mess by trying to do this.