Tiny batches (1 gal/4l) Some Qs

[Bubba_Mustafa]

Since I'm starting out would rather screw up a small batch. Plus more brewing fun.
(I'm doing a bit lighter/session beers, OG=1.050ish)
(used dry yeast and 1/2 a 11g packet per batch)

With just a 1 gal batch, I don't want to pull out a lot of samples for a SG reading, so my theory is to leave it in primary (glass growlers) for a few weeks (2-3-4). The airlock bubbling seems to stop after about 3 days or so. Then check and hopefully bottle up. I don't see much a reason to secondary (though do have the growlers) and then bottle condition for 3 weeks.

1 Sound like a good plan? any tweaks?

2 Would a higher OG need more primary time then a lower? (I understand yeast is a BIG factor.)

3 My LHBSH only carries Wyeast Smack Packs (for liquid). How can I use smaller amounts of it? Just keep the unused in the fridge so its dormant?
(contemplating saving and washing yeast cakes, but that seems to be a bit more advanced technique)

Thanks guys!
Dave

Just a footnote/tip: For the small amounts of hops needed, I used my powder scale for reloading ammo. The typical scale I see most use here only has a resolution of 1g which could mean that anything from .6g - 1.4g reads as 1g give or take a tenth)

 

[haplo]

When I started doing all-grain, I made 3 gallon batches instead of the usual 5 gallon. I wanted to learn by experience, and I could afford more 3 gallon batches. And like you said, it's fun to make more kinds.

I don't always use a hydrometer, though I do check to make sure it has stopped fermenting and make sure it's near the final gravity. As you said, you can't trust the airlock, so waiting a bit longer than you might normally to make sure it's done(and you don't have to waste the samples) doesn't sound like a bad idea.

The Belgians I've made with high gravities have needed extra time to fully carb. Search for the thread by Revvy about patience. It's a good read.

I've had great results with dry yeast, so unless I need a particular yeast style, I go with dry. I'd stay with that until you start doing bigger batches.

 

[HarkinBanks]

I make small BIAB AG batches after work all the time, even down to just a 6 pack batch. I would suggest using dry yeast, it is much cheaper and if you brew back to back you can split the pack. I leave the batches in the primary for a month and go straight to bottling with carb tabs. It's a great way to test out new recipes. A refractometer is very helpful for taking gravity samples, you only need a few drops of wort. You can find one on ebay for about $28 delivered.

 

[Bubba_Mustafa]

Thanks guys!

Had pondered the refractometer, but gotta work out the math for FG readings. (seen it here, but only glanced over it)

Will stick with the dry yeasts for now, but the liquids have so many more varieties available.

Other perk to tiny batches: Fewer bottles!

 

[Butcher]

I was wondering about brewing small batches myself. 2 cases of beer is going to last me a while and I dont know that many people to give it away to. What size fermentating bucket can be used? Is 6.5 gallons too big for a 1-1.5 gallon batch? What about the secondary? Thanks.

 

[haplo]

The smallest I've done is a 3 gallon batch in a 6.5 bucket and a 2.5 gallon batch in a 5 gallon carboy. If you're going that small, maybe you could go get a gallon(or maybe it's 4 liters?) of wine, like Carlo Rossi. Or, even cheaper, get a gallon of apple juice, like TreeTop from Walmart or Big Lots, or just a gallon of water(milk jug gallon). I've never used them for beer, but I've used both for mead, EdWort's Apfelwein, and peach brandy.

Or grab a 3 gallon glass or plastic carboy from your LHBS.

 

[Bubba_Mustafa]

I've been using 1 gal carboys/growlers. I just leave out about a beer's worth. One over flowed, other didn't.

Oh FYI here is a *killer* spreadsheet for using a refractometer for TG. (though ABV part seems to be broke)

http://seanterrill.com/2010/06/11/refractometer-estimates-of-final-gravity/

 

[Beer_Guy]

I too use one gallon jugs. I marked my jugs and only brew 0.75 gallons per jug. I have only had one batch out of dozens that discolored the airlock.

As for the use of liquid yeast. I cut the Wyeast pack open and dump the yeast in a small jar. Then I fish out the smack pouch, rinse it off and use one nutrient pack per 4 jugs. I then add glycerol and freeze any extra yeast for later use.

I like the size because I get 6 - 16oz bottles per jug with a little left over. I then mix all the left over brew together. I call them my “Dregs” brew.