Tales of the Sediment: Damn the Bazooka!

[Brew_Bro]

So I BIAB and often use large grain bills for 5 gallon batches, in the 18-21 lbs range. Most, though not all, of the times I've brewed a big bill I run into an issue with sediment choking up my bazooka screen when I'm draining into my fermenter, and I have to repeatedly scrape the screen with my spoon or, as I did today, I have to sanitize my hand and reach into the wort to unscrew the bazooka and remove it entirely. That makes me, understandably I think, a bit nervous.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Hand-slaps?

 

[bigken462]

After seeing I had a stuck sparge one time, I grabbed my oxygen tank, hooked up the tubing and gave it a hard blast of 02 for 2-3 seconds. Not sure of the effect of Oxygen at this stage of brewing, but it worked. Suppose you could also use a blast of C02 with the same effect. There is a term for oxidation before the boil, but it slips my mind here while at work. Hot side aeration maybe? I dunno. Beer tasted great in the end though so it must not be that big of a deal.

Unstopped the screen and I was back to business in less than a minute.

 

[newnick]

Don't use the screen.

 

[RM-MN]

So I BIAB and often use large grain bills for 5 gallon batches, in the 18-21 lbs range. Most, though not all, of the times I've brewed a big bill I run into an issue with sediment choking up my bazooka screen when I'm draining into my fermenter, and I have to repeatedly scrape the screen with my spoon or, as I did today, I have to sanitize my hand and reach into the wort to unscrew the bazooka and remove it entirely. That makes me, understandably I think, a bit nervous.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Hand-slaps?

As NewNick has posted, don't use the screen. It's a bit like using a belt and suspenders to hold up your pants, either one will do the job. Unfortunately, with BIAB, the bazooka screen plugs, but fortunately, it isn't necessary as it is a form of filter just as the bag is. Use just one. Since one of the advantages of BIAB is the ability to use finely milled grain you need to use the bag for the filter. If you want to use the bazooka screen, omit the bag and use more coarse grains.

 

[jddevinn]

I've tried a couple different filters and haven't had success with any of them. I know whirlpool and transfer without a filter. If I think I've had a lot of carry over I'll let settle for 30-40 minutes in the conical then dump before adding yeast.

I've thought about trying one of these.https://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html

 

[Brew_Bro]

As NewNick has posted, don't use the screen. It's a bit like using a belt and suspenders to hold up your pants, either one will do the job. Unfortunately, with BIAB, the bazooka screen plugs, but fortunately, it isn't necessary as it is a form of filter just as the bag is. Use just one. Since one of the advantages of BIAB is the ability to use finely milled grain you need to use the bag for the filter. If you want to use the bazooka screen, omit the bag and use more coarse grains.

This is exactly what I've been thinking, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue with my LBHS doing too fine a grind on the grain; I've had some issues with astringency lately and it had occurred to me that the two might be related.

Thanks everybody!

 

[jddevinn]

This is exactly what I've been thinking, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue with my LBHS doing too fine a grind on the grain; I've had some issues with astringency lately and it had occurred to me that the two might be related.

Thanks everybody!

Suspect that this is hot/cold break and hop particles clogging your screen not grain that remained in the kettle after removing the bag.

My experience with clogged boil kettle filters is with a 3 vessel E-HERMS so no grain in my BK.

 

[RM-MN]

This is exactly what I've been thinking, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue with my LBHS doing too fine a grind on the grain; I've had some issues with astringency lately and it had occurred to me that the two might be related.

Thanks everybody!

Astringency is usually associated with tannin extraction which can occur if your pH gets too high and you raise the temperature for a mash out. Control the pH, you can boil the grains. Forget about the mash out and you can't extract the tannins.

I don't think the LHBS can grind the grain too fine. I use a Corona style mill and have it set tight. I doubt you will get the grain milled any finer than that.

 

[pmaster]

I did the exact same thing on my last batch. Put my hand in the sanitizer and the dug in the wort to remove the screen! I'm hoping I won't have to do it again. I may not put it back in actually. Once I removed it I strained the wort coming out of my valve through a hop bag, which also came almost full with trub and liquid. I squeezed it and it came out fine. I may use this technique from now on. I think I may try with a metal fine mesh strainer/stifler to filter when it comes out.

 

[Brew_Bro]

Astringency is usually associated with tannin extraction which can occur if your pH gets too high and you raise the temperature for a mash out. Control the pH, you can boil the grains. Forget about the mash out and you can't extract the tannins.

I don't think the LHBS can grind the grain too fine. I use a Corona style mill and have it set tight. I doubt you will get the grain milled any finer than that.

My water hasn't changed, and I've had numerous beers come out excellently using the same water source I did with the astringent batches. The process difference has been me "experimenting" with mash times, ie I've ended up doing, for various reasons, almost 90 minute mashes in all cases. I expect that's the root of my problem. This weekend I was able to stay on task (and control my inebriation) and kept the mash time to 60 minutes; I expect this batch will be fine. The grain crush thought had occurred to me as I was obsessing over the issue the other night and brainstorming. I analyze the hell out of everything, doncha know.

 

[jddevinn]

Do you have a Ph meter? That's the first thing I would look at.

 

[RM-MN]

My water hasn't changed, and I've had numerous beers come out excellently using the same water source I did with the astringent batches. The process difference has been me "experimenting" with mash times, ie I've ended up doing, for various reasons, almost 90 minute mashes in all cases. I expect that's the root of my problem. This weekend I was able to stay on task (and control my inebriation) and kept the mash time to 60 minutes; I expect this batch will be fine. The grain crush thought had occurred to me as I was obsessing over the issue the other night and brainstorming. I analyze the hell out of everything, doncha know.

If your grain is milled fine, try a half size batch (in case you don't like the results you only have half as much to choke down) with a 30 minute mash.

I don't think your beer is astringent, mostly just too dry. That long mash might have given you more fermentable wort than you expected.

 

[Brew_Bro]

If your grain is milled fine, try a half size batch (in case you don't like the results you only have half as much to choke down) with a 30 minute mash.

I don't think your beer is astringent, mostly just too dry. That long mash might have given you more fermentable wort than you expected.

I appreciate your input. I characterize the off flavor as strong, almost biting bitterness which holds on for a bit even after the finish. I've had dry beers before, and this is quite definitely not that. Additionally, the two previous times I've experienced the flavor, it's gradually lessened as the beer has been kegged and in the fridge, and resulted in very drinkable beers (one a Belgian Strong, the other a SMaSH Saison) after some aging. This all combines to lead me to the idea of astringency being the issue, and research along that line indicated that my wildly extended mash times were likely the culprit, as that's really the only thing that's changed with these batches.

All that said, I should have taken a sample to my local homebrew club meeting last night for opinions, but I forgot to take myself.