Double IPA Stone Enjoy By IPA

[TrickyDick]

I brewed this yesterday. It was my first time adjusting the mash pH with acid and 3rd time adding salts. That part seemed to go okay. I used half the amount of lactic acid that Brun Water predicted (to make sure I didn't go too low). And then I used the full amount and the pH was at 5.4 (on a pH strip, so hopefully it was accurate enough). I did have a slight issue with my mash temperature. It was good for about 45 mins where it noticed it dropped to 146F, so I decided to heat it more (I do BIAB so the pot doesn't hold the heat as well as a cooler would). It took a few minutes of heating to get it back up to 147F. After 75 minutes into the mash, I wanted to do the iodine test so I opened it up and checked the temp and it was in the low 150's. I guess I added too much heat and since I left it on the warm burner, I guess that caused it to continue to rise. Hopefully it was mostly converted at that point. After that, everything else seemed to go fine. I used WLP090 yeast and I'm maintaining it at 66F degrees now.

I used bru'n water as well. PH Dead on. I did a double batch and ended up using 1 lb acid malt to achieve proper pH with my water, which I adjusted to a stone profile.
I think this mash was fully converted for me by 45 minutes, but I let it go for 75.

To the responder about hop sacks, yeah I generally use them too. For this brew, there was 19 oz of hops used. I generally like to limit hops sack to hold no more than 3 oz of hops, because I've had occasions when I used more than that, and I felt the hops were mass-like in the sacks sort of like a dough ball in the mash, without making good contact with the wort. Anyways, who knows. I will order a whole bunch of hop sacks before I try this brew again, and portion two to three oz hops per sack. I thought about using a hop spider, but seems that I would have probably had the same issue. Well it was a pita for sure. I think my whirlpool technique may be to blame, or else I maybe need to use a little bit of leaf hops to help from a good cone...

TD

 

[mtnagel]

I used bru'n water as well. PH Dead on. I did a double batch and ended up using 1 lb acid malt to achieve proper pH with my water, which I adjusted to a stone profile.

I used 4 ml 88% lactic acid for a 4 gal batch (6.5 gal mash). Since I only used pH strips, I wasn't sure of the accuracy, so it's good to know the pH prediction was correct for you.

I think this mash was fully converted for me by 45 minutes, but I let it go for 75.

That's good to know too. Hopefully my higher temp after 45 mins doesn't affect anything.

To the responder about hop sacks, yeah I generally use them too. For this brew, there was 19 oz of hops used. I generally like to limit hops sack to hold no more than 3 oz of hops, because I've had occasions when I used more than that, and I felt the hops were mass-like in the sacks sort of like a dough ball in the mash, without making good contact with the wort. Anyways, who knows. I will order a whole bunch of hop sacks before I try this brew again, and portion two to three oz hops per sack. I thought about using a hop spider, but seems that I would have probably had the same issue. Well it was a pita for sure. I think my whirlpool technique may be to blame, or else I maybe need to use a little bit of leaf hops to help from a good cone...

TD

For many beers I starting just tossing the hops in the kettle, but I made a Heady Topper clone and there was so much hop particles in the bottle so I wanted to avoid that. So this time I figured I had to use hop sacks. I ended up using 1 gallon paint strainers (note I only did a 4 gallon batch, so I had 2/3's the hops). I put the bittering hop in the bag and then put the 15 min hops in the same bag as well. Then for the steep hops, I put them in a separate 1 gal bag and pulled the first bag and then put the second bag for the hop steep. Seemed to work well and it allowed me to separate some of the hops so they weren't all in one bag.

I'm planning on using them for the dry hop as well. Maybe weigh it down with a shot glass and add the hops and attach it with some dental floss so I can remove the first addition before putting in the second addition.

 

[TrickyDick]

Dry hop schedule?

By the way, what is the dry hop schedule for this brew??
From what the guys at stone were telling me, this is apparently brewed then packaged a week later.

That said, since I brewed Sunday, was thinking dry hop first dose on Tuesday or Wednesday, then second dose (which I might split in half to do a keg dry hop) on Thursday or Friday.

Planning to filter and package next Sunday after a cold crash Saturday night.

TD

 

[mtnagel]

Wow, that's much more aggresive dry hopping than I've done before. Typically I wait 7 days before the first dry hop and I usually do 5-7 days for dry hop, but Scottland said 3-4 days per dry hop. I was planning on doing 5 days each, but maybe that isn't necessary?

 

[mtnagel]

So TD, did you dry hop yours?

The bubbling in the blowoff stopped bubbling so I checked the gravity and I'm down to 1.011 from 1.078 (I used WLP090). But there is still a large layer of krausen that doesn't look like it has started to drop. Can I dry hop with it like that?

 

[TrickyDick]

I added 6 oz dry hops moments ago, half Nelson Sauvin and half Galaxy.
The Krausen ring had fallen. It's three days since I pitched the yeast. I haven't checked the gravity yet. I am pretty sure that its near terminal gravity. This is supposedly when the commercial brewers add dry hops. I read this in the book Love for Hops by Stan Heironymous. Not sure I spelled it right. Anyway, the rationale was that when you add hops, small amounts of oxygen are introduced. This is a problem for commercial breweries. By adding near the end of primary fermentation, they figure that the still active yeast will scrub out or otherwise consume the oxygen.
Based on your gravity readings, it sounds like you are near the end of primary fermentation as well, even is the Krausen hasn't settled yet. I would dry hop now if I were you. I like to dry hop in the primary because when you cold crash prior to racking it helps clear problematic hop particles, especially if kegging. I will add half my second dose in two days and the other half in the keg probably. I tried to email Stone about their timing, but I haven't heard back.

TD

 

[mtnagel]

6 oz? Did I miss that you did a 10 gal batch? I did 2/3rd the recipe so I will use 1 oz each Nelson and Galaxy.

I will dry hop tonight. I might as move the batch along

 

[TrickyDick]

6 oz? Did I miss that you did a 10 gal batch? I did 2/3rd the recipe so I will use 1 oz each Nelson and Galaxy. I will dry hop tonight. I might as move the batch along

Yes I did 10 gal.

Can you say "boil over"?? For some reason I get them when I do 90 min boil recipes, probably because I'm doing 14 gallons in a 15 gallon kettle!!
Had to add extra hops to account for the presumed lost hops in the boil over....maybe lost a pint or so...

 

[mtnagel]

Sounds like you need a 20 gal pot!

Are you having a party or are you planning on drinking like 3 pints a night since Stone implores you to enjoy thing beer within a few weeks

 

[TrickyDick]

Sounds like you need a 20 gal pot! Are you having a party or are you planning on drinking like 3 pints a night since Stone implores you to enjoy thing beer within a few weeks

I'm splitting the batch with a friend. Also, I think it'll still be great beyond 35 days... TD

Also will probably end up with less than 10 gallons because of all the trub

 

[mtnagel]

Ah I see. And I agree it will still taste great after 35 days. I'm sure I'll still have some hanging around for a couple months so I'll get to see how it ages.

 

[scottland]

6 oz? Did I miss that you did a 10 gal batch? I did 2/3rd the recipe so I will use 1 oz each Nelson and Galaxy.

I will dry hop tonight. I might as move the batch along

Nope. It's 6oz of dry hops for a 6gal batch.

Stone uses 1lb per bbl of dry hops each of Nelson and Galaxy. That's roughly 3oz ea.

 

[mtnagel]

But split in half for each of the two dry hops right? He and I were talking about the first dry hop which we both did today. I made a 4 gal batch so I did 1 oz of both dry hops now and will do another 2 oz in a few days.

Thanks for the recipe. The small sample I had today tasted great.

 

[thisisbeer]

I added 6 oz dry hops moments ago, half Nelson Sauvin and half Galaxy.
The Krausen ring had fallen. It's three days since I pitched the yeast. I haven't checked the gravity yet. I am pretty sure that its near terminal gravity. This is supposedly when the commercial brewers add dry hops. I read this in the book Love for Hops by Stan Heironymous. Not sure I spelled it right. Anyway, the rationale was that when you add hops, small amounts of oxygen are introduced. This is a problem for commercial breweries. By adding near the end of primary fermentation, they figure that the still active yeast will scrub out or otherwise consume the oxygen.
Based on your gravity readings, it sounds like you are near the end of primary fermentation as well, even is the Krausen hasn't settled yet. I would dry hop now if I were you. I like to dry hop in the primary because when you cold crash prior to racking it helps clear problematic hop particles, especially if kegging. I will add half my second dose in two days and the other half in the keg probably. I tried to email Stone about their timing, but I haven't heard back.

TD

I thought the yeast were done using oxygen at this stage of fermentation? Plus I know for a fact that some commercial brewer's chill to 50 to help the yeast floculate and then dump the yeast before dryhop. For the specific reason of the yeast soaking up hop oils and striping them from the beer. I don't know if that's true but I know that's there reasoning behind it.

 

[TrickyDick]

I thought the yeast were done using oxygen at this stage of fermentation? Plus I know for a fact that some commercial brewer's chill to 50 to help the yeast floculate and then dump the yeast before dryhop. For the specific reason of the yeast soaking up hop oils and striping them from the beer. I don't know if that's true but I know that's there reasoning behind it.

I am not sure, but that's what it said in the book. It also talked about how yeast act upon the hops and and can change the flavor and components of the hops compounds measured in beer. I normally dry hop a little later than this, but the bartender at stone said they filter and package it the week after brew day. I figure with two additions, that day three was a good idea. Time will tell. I am probably going to split the second dose into a keg addition and a day 5 addition.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Well, I ended up not having a spare keg that I trusted to do the filtering yesterday. I tried to "finish off" one of my previous brews, thinking it to be near empty. 4 pints later and still not empty. Not a great way to set yourself up for Monday morning. I am pressure testing an empty keg of suspect for a pinhole leak versus a leaky post o-ring. If it holds, I'll return it to use and filter the brew and rapidly carb it up. Upset that I missed my chance at a first ever 1 week beer.. I also forgot to adjust the freezer temp to cold crash until Sunday morning. The water in the airlock froze... Since I'm headed to a concert tonight, I will not be able to keg and carbonate the beer until tomorrow...

TD

Edit-
Filtered down to 1 micron and kegged today. still had noticeable hop haze. Wow, did the cold crash really drop the yeast AND hops! it was almost as clear before filtering as it was without! Mangrove Jack 07 yeast. thick layer of sludge at bottom of fermenter was impressive. Tried to get it carbed enough to drink, but its not there yet, using my .5 or is it .05 micron stone. Going to use my carbonation stone over night at serving pressure and hope that does it. The hop flavor and aroma is intense, though I suspect my bitterness is a tad less than stone. not quite the same pucker factor. Brewing a big 10 gallon (and I only ended up with about 9.5) batch with a 15 gallon boil kettle and boiled over some of the bittering hops. I added more back, probably more than I should've. Had to fight the boil all day to keep from boiling over. probably why its not as bitter. I think next time, and yes there will be a next time, I'll get the hop extract and worry less about the boilover, or, just convert to a 60 minute boil and up the extract. Forgot to record an OG in my struggle to collect the wort, so I'm sort of flying by the seat of my pants with the ABV values. Beersmith has been spot on in its predictions for me in the last year though so I'm going to assume those values, but with a (small) grain of salt. The flavor seems similar to what I recall at the brewery, but bitterness and temp and carbonation level may be altering perception of that. All in all, a great DIPA brew though, and shockingly, extremely rapid grain to glass time. I and impressed. I pitched 2 packs rehydrated yeast per 6 gallons. I probably only collected 10-10.5 gallons in the fermenter from all the hop sludge in the kettle though, and lost close to another half to full gallon in the fermenter in sludge/trub. Thanks for all the help on this recipe!
Pictures show in the glass - yeah is plastic and green but taps are on the pool deck, and also in the primary after the cold crash show how clear is was. Looked like pond scum on Friday.
TD

 

[electrotype]

Hi,

I plan on brewing this as my next (and third ever!) beer.

I'm a newbie and I'd like to know if someone can help me... The place where I buy my grain doesn't seem to have "English Pale Malt (3.5L)". What alternative grain should I use? If you really want to help, here's a PDF that lists all their grains. Do you think "Malterie Pauls (UK) - PALE ALE" would do the trick? Should I get another one instead?

Thanks in advance!

 

[mtnagel]

I'm far from an expert, but I bet that would work just fine.

 

[thisisbeer]

I'm no expert either. But I do like the pearl malt. Haven't tried it with this recipe but have had some good luck with it in other ipas.

 

[m3n00b]

Here's my take on it. Lhbs was out of a couple like belma, calypso and galaxy hops so substitutions were made. Doesn't taste exact but is just as good IMO. My beer critic buddy rated it higher on untappd than enjoy by.

Kegged and fined with gelatin the other day. Gelatin really rounded out the flavors and aromas on this one. Used 1/2 pack.

 

[electrotype]

I'm far from an expert, but I bet that would work just fine.

I'm no expert either. But I do like the pearl malt. Haven't tried it with this recipe but have had some good luck with it in other ipas.

All right, thanks guys.

 

[mtnagel]

Just bottled mine 2 weeks after brewing. It's going to kill me to wait 2 weeks to drink one, but I'll be in Mexico next week at an all inclusive stuck drinking Corona (first world problems I know), so it will taste extra awesome when I come home!

 

[electrotype]

As a newbie who's going to try this recipe, I have another question :

When dextrose is specified in a recipe (here : "1lb Dextrose"), it's always sugar to add at flameout, is that correct?

So if I use bottle conditioning, I have to add some extra sugar before bottling, right?

Thanks in advance!

 

[thisisbeer]

Yes, add more at bottle conditioning. Dextrose is added in this recipe to help lower the final gravity of the beer. Dextrose is 100% fermentable so it won't add any body to the beer. The other malts won't ferment 100% that is what gives the beer its malt character and body. There will be some sugars left in the beer that the yeast can't chew through.

You will add more at bottling to give the yeast something to eat to carbonate the beer.

 

[electrotype]

Thanks thisisbeer.

 

[thisisbeer]

Anytime!

 

[TrickyDick]

I'd suggest also to the poster self described newbie, consider using hop sacks. Unsure what you've got planned but the amount if hops will likely pose a filtration problem. They will also absorb wort so consider adding additional water to the boil to account for this. Some folks also hang the hop sacks to drip dry back into kettle as it drains. TD

 

[electrotype]

I'd suggest also to the poster self described newbie, consider using hop sacks. Unsure what you've got planned but the amount if hops will likely pose a filtration problem. They will also absorb wort so consider adding additional water to the boil to account for this. Some folks also hang the hop sacks to drip dry back into kettle as it drains. TD

Thanks for the tips! My first two recipes were also IPA bombs and I realised that the hop absorbs a lot of liquid indeed!

What I did to filter the hops is a trick I read here on HBT : I tied a filtering bag when I racked to my bottling bucket. It works pretty well!

(I now bought a reusable nylon bag and will use a clamp instead of a rubber band!)

 

[mtnagel]

After 2 weeks in the bottle at 69F-ish and 1 day in the fridge.

So far, this tastes very good. Great aroma and great bitterness. Might be a bit more bitter than the real thing, but I could be remembering wrong. Wish it I had one to compare to.

Looking at the Stone site, the last one was brewed on 11/8/13. I wonder if they are stopping or taking a break from brewing it.

Thanks OP for the recipe.

 

[electrotype]

I now have all my hops! I'm probably brewing this sunday.

I have one question though : at the store where I buy my yeast, they currently do not have the Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007). What should I use instead, in your opinion?

- California Ale (WLP001)
or
- English Ale (WLP002, not the "dry" one)

 

[thisisbeer]

I heard of people using Wyeast 1098 in place of it. But I haven't tried it so I cant say how accurate that is. WLP002 will leave behind a residual sweetness that wouldn't play well with the beer. Looking it up 1098 doesn't attenuate as much as WLP007 does either. WLP001 is good go to IPA yeast. Leaves a nice clean flavor that doesn't over power the hops like I think WLP002 would. But the trick of these IPA's is the yeast flavors help the hops shine. Maybe someone can jump on on the 1098. I would try the 1098 out of curiosity. But the WLP001 is a popular yeast for IPA's.

 

[govner1]

You might also consider WY1217 West Coast IPA. It's rumored to be from Stone. I've used in two IPA's recently & it really drops out & clears quickly.

 

[thisisbeer]

Isn't that a seasonal strain?

 

[TrickyDick]

I'd like to try the Brett Trois seasonal for a primary in this someday.
I used mangrove jack M07. Attenuated well.

Whichever yeast you use, it's probably going to turn out great. I bet you get good attenuation even with the English ale yeast for this brew. You could try adding the dextrose into the primary at high krausen or slightly after to make the yeast work harder on the maltose if your worried about poor attenuation with the English yeast.

TD

 

[hogwash]

I used 2 packs of s04 and mine turned out great. Full attenuation, clearing nicely. I didn't even rehydrate (oh, sin of sins!).

 

[mtnagel]

Looking at the Stone site, the last one was brewed on 11/8/13. I wonder if they are stopping or taking a break from brewing it.

So I thought about this today and went to their site and I see they made another batch. Bottling in a couple days. Enjoy by 2/14/14 (Valentine's Day; how cute).

But of course when I want to get one to compare to my clone, they decide not to come to Ohio! Or KY or IN, which I can get to easily also. Damn!

Who's going to send me one?

 

[TrickyDick]

After about 3-4 weeks the hop aroma and flavor goes from an 11 down to an 8.5. Bummed...

Still great. Thinking about another dose of dry hops to what's left....

 

[CrystalShip]

I just had a bomber of the most recent batch of enjoy by ( i think its 02-14-14) and it does not have nearly the powerful tropical fruit flavor/aroma as the previous edition did. It was much more Dank/earthy this time. Has anyone tried it?

 

[geoffey]

I just had a bomber of the most recent batch of enjoy by ( i think its 02-14-14) and it does not have nearly the powerful tropical fruit flavor/aroma as the previous edition did. It was much more Dank/earthy this time. Has anyone tried it?

I just had some on tap a couple nights ago and didn't at all get dank/earthy notes.

 

[thisisbeer]

I just had some on tap a couple nights ago and didn't at all get dank/earthy notes.

I got those notes as well. It was pretty earthy and onion-y to me. I didn't care for it as much as the last batch I tried.