Starting PH

[Mr. Torgue]

I’ve got a pretty good grasp on getting a brew started. Lately I’ve seen some videos about checking the PH at start. I know that under 4.6 keeps you out of the botulism zone.
My question is: what would be a good PH to shoot for?

I realize that there’s some variables to this question and would end up being a “it depends” answer. So I’m just trying to get a good generalization to build from.

 

[CKuhns]

I typically shoot for very near 4.0 but have had sucess between 3.5 and 4.5.

I have a traditional in the fermenter now that started at a pH of 3.3. (I didnt have any Potassium Bicarbonate to adjust). It hasnt stalled but has slowed way down at 1.050 from an OG of 1.125. As long as its still moving I am not going to mess with it.

You will find varying opinions on pH. There are a lot of on-libe sites discussing it.

 

[Mr. Torgue]

I really like to try keeping things organic as possible. What are some ways to adjust the PH?

I like to try not to use any chemicals or 5 syllable word items but I know there’s some complex sounding stuff out there that is still naturally occurring/organic

 

[Johnny2]

I've made country wines with pH's ranging from 3.0 to 4.0 with no issues, but I wouldn't ferment under 3 and even that is too low.

Best three: Potassium carbonate, calcium carbonate and potassium bicarbonate (potassium bicarbonate should only be used for minor/medium adjustments, max 1g/l). Less good, but if nothing else is available: sodium carbonate (soda ash) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), sodium in them can add a salty flavor. Also sodium and potassium hydroxide (caustic soda and caustic potash), but I haven't researched them.

I recommend Calcium Carbonate for meads, especially traditional meads, because it has a neutral flavor compared to other carbonates. It's worse option when used in fruit meads or wines that have tartaric acid, because it makes a precipitate which takes some months to drop out.

 

[Mr. Torgue]

I've made country wines with pH's ranging from 3.0 to 4.0 with no issues, but I wouldn't ferment under 3 and even that is too low.

Best three: Potassium carbonate, calcium carbonate and potassium bicarbonate (potassium bicarbonate should only be used for minor/medium adjustments, max 1g/l). Less good, but if nothing else is available: sodium carbonate (soda ash) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), sodium in them can add a salty flavor. Also sodium and potassium hydroxide (caustic soda and caustic potash), but I haven't researched them.

I recommend Calcium Carbonate for meads, especially traditional meads, because it has a neutral flavor compared to other carbonates. It's worse option when used in fruit meads or wines that have tartaric acid, because it makes a precipitate which takes some months to drop out.

Excellent info! Thank you for the response

 

[Control Freak]

4.6 Is in a post fermentation range pH. 5.2 - 5.6 would be a starting range depending on the style of beer your brewing.

 

[Mr. Torgue]

4.6 Is in a post fermentation range pH. 5.2 - 5.6 would be a starting range depending on the style of beer your brewing.

Thanks for the info! I’m doing a mead and read it should be under the 4.6 zone to avoid hazards.
Would brewing beer be able to be higher since it gets boiled?

 

[Control Freak]

Didn't catch that, thanks. Never done mead. Ive done several ciders and adjust the starting pH to 3.5.

 

[MightyMosin]

I have only ever adjusted the pH upwards as the honey is already acidic and very few honeys have a high pH that you have to worry about. The worst I ever experiences was a "Carrot Blossom" that I think was adulterated. My must had a starting pH around 5.0, but after a day or so it crashed down near 3.5.

If my starting pH is in the area of 3.2 or less I will add a small bit of bicarbonate to help buffer it, many times without ever actually moving the pH meter; I'm just trying to prevent quick changes that might stress the yeast. I'm OK with the lower pH as it means I will use less K-Meta to stabilize the mead.