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Spike - Steam Condenser Lid

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Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?
 
Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?

You can go either route. If you want to conserve water we'd recommend recirculating. With that method you'll use about 5 gallons or so. If you don't want to swap a bucket then you can just let it flow into a drain and it'll use more water.
 
Coming back to this thread as i have questions before i pull the trigger on the Spike lid for my 10 gallon kettles. Remodeling my brew area and i'd ideally like to avoid building another complicated vent system as theres a window i'd like to keep in use in that area

Spike's website says water usage is 5gph if recirculating the discharge on the product page, but in the same page also says the discharge water is hot. But it seems that literally no one is doing this per these threads, and spike's own FAQ contradicts this saying 15-25gallons depending on size, so whats the correct thing here? Continuous feed of cold water, resulting in 10-15gallons of water usage for a 10 gallon kettle? Or do you discharge back into the source water bucket and babysit until it hits 120 degrees and then switch it out for another 5 gallon bucket of cold water?

Ditch the spike nozzle and pump. I got a nozzle from McMaster and a different tri-clamp fitting and hooked it to a garden faucet. Uses about 9gph; works great. I drain to the sink. Here is a pic.
 

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Been using mine fine on my 20 gal SSBrewtech BME, i totally agree that clear lid cap is so much hassle and you can get your hand burned by the steam.

Found the best solution i highly recommend:

https://www.glaciertanks.com/16amp-g400-loop.html
You have a cap with a hanger AND a loop to hang any hop/spices bag.
 
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Ditch the spike nozzle and pump. I got a nozzle from McMaster and a different tri-clamp fitting and hooked it to a garden faucet. Uses about 9gph; works great. I drain to the sink. Here is a pic.
That's a great idea! Could you post a link for the tri clamp fitting and nozzle? I am using an rv regulator currently, this would simplify my setup.
 
That's a great idea! Could you post a link for the tri clamp fitting and nozzle? I am using an rv regulator currently, this would simplify my setup.

Here are the links for the parts I used.

Misting Nozzle, Full-Cone, 416 Stainless Steel, 1/8 NPT Male, 9.49 gph At 40 PSI | McMaster-Carr

304 Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, Low-Pressure, Straight Reducer, 1/2 x 1/8 NPT Female | McMaster-Carr

Welcome to Adventures in Homebrewing - What is your Adventure?

I used a garden adapter and 90 deg elbow for the supply water.
This is the combination that worked for me. The nozzle sits just low enough in the vertical pipe that the spray doesn't travel in the horizontal pipe back into the brew kettle (very important)! Here's a pic of the assembled part. Good luck.

20220206_114907.jpg
 
Any opinion of Steam Slayer DIY - 1.5" TC Sprayer Head Assembly that is sold on Brewhardware?, i like the idea of moving to hooking to a garden hose to 9ghp.
 
It's freaking amazing. I'm not sure what you need to know...

I agree!, looks so much better than using the mini pump and sprayer Spike provides for their steam condenser, just wanted to be sure the length of the sprayer is fine for the Spike's steam condencer.
 
Has anyone figured out how to get steam to stop leaking out the rim of the lid?

I have a spike 30 gal kettle with the lid on an eHERMS using 5500 ulwd elements. When I run the boil at anything greater than 15% (slightly rolling boil) steam starts leaking out the sides and condensates/drips down the side of the kettle.

I have the standard configuration, no CIP ball…
For my set up I had to use a bungee cord across the top.
 
I agree!, looks so much better than using the mini pump and sprayer Spike provides for their steam condenser, just wanted to be sure the length of the sprayer is fine for the Spike's steam condencer.
Did you go this route? Wanted to know if it's working well. I have a gift card with Spike to use and was also thinking of getting the steam condenser lid and combining it with the DIY steam slayer sprayer so I can hook it up to my garden hose.
 
Here are the links for the parts I used.

Misting Nozzle, Full-Cone, 416 Stainless Steel, 1/8 NPT Male, 9.49 gph At 40 PSI | McMaster-Carr

304 Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, Low-Pressure, Straight Reducer, 1/2 x 1/8 NPT Female | McMaster-Carr

Welcome to Adventures in Homebrewing - What is your Adventure?

I used a garden adapter and 90 deg elbow for the supply water.
This is the combination that worked for me. The nozzle sits just low enough in the vertical pipe that the spray doesn't travel in the horizontal pipe back into the brew kettle (very important)! Here's a pic of the assembled part. Good luck.

View attachment 758553
resurrecting a SUPER old thread, but how did this set-up work for you? Did this nozzle/configuration work for your house water pressure and still allow the lid to function properly? Any modifications to this assembly since you built it? I am going to follow your lead and ditch the pump and bucket. TIA!
Eric
 
My house water pressure is like 45-50 PSI, while the Spike pump puts out 6 PSI, so running the condenser sprayer right off the tap gave a dramatically stronger stream. I bought an inline water pressure regulator (typically used for RVs), and am able to crank it all the way down to 0 PSI if I want to. I haven't had a chance to try it with an actual brew yet, but I can confirm that with the pressure set to 6(ish) PSI, the spray coming out of the nozzle looks much more like the one with the pump now, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

How has this been working out for you?
 

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