Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[Blazinlow86]

I got a 2" to 1.5" Tri clamp adapter so that I can use my regular hose that has 1.5" connections on it on that bottom valve too. It is handy for sanitizing. I put the 2" drain outlet into my pump and the output of my pump into the CIP ball and let it run for a few minutes.

That's a good idea too. I don't use the cip as I have the spike cf15 with the removable top so it's not worth the extra work to clean it that way. Just remove the lid and hand clean it just like a kitchen pot. I also have a hand sprayer I use to sanitize. If you have a ss unitank with the small top opening or your process only allowed glycol chilling the cip is more useful I think. Cheers

 

[cozmogeek]

That's a good idea too. I don't use the cip as I have the spike cf15 with the removable top so it's not worth the extra work to clean it that way. Just remove the lid and hand clean it just like a kitchen pot. I also have a hand sprayer I use to sanitize. If you have a ss unitank with the small top opening or your process only allowed glycol chilling the cip is more useful I think. Cheers

I have the CF15 too. I just figured it'd be easier to pump star san through it for a minute than to try to sanitize the whole thing. You should've seen the foam lol. I might not do that again.

 

[mongoose33]

Just to offer another idea on the gasket coming off the lid. Had that issue too. I spread some keg lube around the gasket channel. At least the lube I have is pretty sticky. I did that and put the gasket in and it holds sort of like glue. Works for me.

 

[jturman35]

I haven’t had any problems with the gasket on my CF5. Make sure to do dump yeast/trub before racking.

 

[Blazinlow86]

the gasket on mine fits snugly and definitely wouldn't call out on its own. I'd contact spike and maybe they can send a new one.
Possible they have some that came out to thin for whatever reason. It would irritate me having to fiddle with that each time I took the lid off. Cheers

 

[Sbe2]

So when do you all do a yeast dump?


My plan right now is to swap the the barbed 90 for the gas manifold. Hook up gas to it, Dump the yeast, then dry hop.

I’m on day 2 of Fermentation right now on a NEIPA.

 

[Blazinlow86]

So when do you all do a yeast dump?


My plan right now is to swap the the barbed 90 for the gas manifold. Hook up gas to it, Dump the yeast, then dry hop.

I’m on day 2 of Fermentation right now on a NEIPA.

I only dump once after I've cold crashed.i then add the carb stone for 24 hours and then rack to kegs. I tried doing it early a few times but ended up mostly just wasting clear beer. I don't bother harvesting yeast anymore as I find it easier to just overbuild my starters saving abit for the next starter. and just to clarify you're not going to try to do a dump without some sort of barbed connection on the lower output with a hose to direct correct? Otherwise your gonna have a fantastic mess on your hands. Cheers

 

[jdr01]

I am dumping yeast after the cold crash as well. As Blazinlow86 said I was wasting clear beer.

Has anyone had trouble with the valves leaking? The 1.5" was dripping when new. Spike sent me a new one. Now that one drips along with the 2" valve. Both of these drip without additional pressure.
I have been putting caps on the valves to be safe.

 

[itsnotrequired]

i also dump after crash but really just enough to get all the 'stuff' below the racking port. it is a bit of a guessing game but for 'regular' beer with no dry hopping, i dump a very small amount. some dry hopped monster? i dump a lot more. i do closed transfers so also dump a bit from the racking valve, to clear out anything that settled in there. not the end of the world if just yeast but getting bits of hops into the keg posts is annoying as hell.

regarding leaks, my 1.5" butterfly leaked a bit when i was doing some testing with cold water. i kept the protective plastic cap on there during the first fermentation and nothing collected in it (no leak). i left it off for future brews and haven't had any leaking issues since. 2" never leaked.

 

[Sbe2]

I normally overbuild my starters, but for my inaugural brew in the conical I opened up a new smack pack and pitched.

Would it be possible to harvest without temperature control? I am brewing a NEIPA and am starting to think it may not be possible to harvest “clean” yeast. I may have to bite the bullet on this yeast pack.

I will probably dump before I rack to a keg with co2 connected to the gas manifold mainting positive pressure.

 

[Carlscan26]

I am dumping yeast after the cold crash as well. As Blazinlow86 said I was wasting clear beer.

Has anyone had trouble with the valves leaking? The 1.5" was dripping when new. Spike sent me a new one. Now that one drips along with the 2" valve. Both of these drip without additional pressure.
I have been putting caps on the valves to be safe.

I’ve had the same problem on 3 out of 3 batches with the racking valve. I need to contact Spike about it.

 

[jturman35]

My valves work fine. When dumping yeast/trub I have been doing this with no fitting and quickly closing the valve before beer rushes out. Does using a fitting work better? I would think the yeast would clog the smaller opening?

 

[tll77]

I've had no issues with valves once installed on my cf10. One of the butterfly valves and the sight glass had a loose bolt or two on arrival but I disassembled everything for a thorough cleaning before first use and used keg lube on all the seals as I put it back together.

As far as using a fitting when dumping, I do use a fitting, I use a 2"TCx1/2mpt. I find it slows the dump a little as though it's providing flow restriction the outflow. The more compacted trub layer at the bottom moves kinda slowly at first and as it speeds up I close the butterfly valve to slow it.

 

[NeoBrew]

I was debating spike vs SS. Which is why I subscribed to this thread. I went with an SS Unitank about 6 brews ago.

I’ve had none of these problems with mine. All valves and fittings have worked right out of the box. Just an FYI

 

[mongoose33]

I was debating spike vs SS. Which is why I subscribed to this thread. I went with an SS Unitank about 6 brews ago.

I’ve had none of these problems with mine. All valves and fittings have worked right out of the box. Just an FYI

I've had a little dripping from the racking valve of my Spike. It worked right out of the box, too, for probably 16 brews.

 

[Blazinlow86]

My valves work fine. When dumping yeast/trub I have been doing this with no fitting and quickly closing the valve before beer rushes out. Does using a fitting work better? I would think the yeast would clog the smaller opening?

Ive also been fortunate with no leaks so far. The fitting definitely workes better however when I do the dump the fermentor is pressurized to 12psi typically. the key is only opening the valve the tiniest bit in my case not even to the first detent and going as slow and gently as possible. Otherwise you will just blow a hole in the yeast/sediment and then your back to mostly clear beer coming thru. If done correctly you will have a thick creamy kinda peanut butter consiscy with no beer. Once you see clear beer your done and ready to add the carb stone. now if you don't have the prv setup and are using gravity it might plug but honestly I'm not sure I've ever tried without being pressurized. I'm pretty sure it wasn't designed to just dump wide open as there's no real gentle way of doing it. Cheers

 

[Blazinlow86]

I was debating spike vs SS. Which is why I subscribed to this thread. I went with an SS Unitank about 6 brews ago.

I’ve had none of these problems with mine. All valves and fittings have worked right out of the box. Just an FYI

Pretty sure they use the same Chinese made butterfly valves for what it's worth. I wouldn't choose a different vessel for this reason alone. Cheers

 

[jdr01]

i use a 5/8" fitting on the dump valve. It works fine. I had a mess the couple times I did not reduce it.

 

[crooow]

I'm deciding between a CF10 and CF15. I mostly do 10 gallon batches, but I may occasionally do a 15. Anyone doing 10 gallon fermentations in their CF15? Encounter any problems?

 

[CodeSection]

@crooow, I was in your position and I ended up buying the CF10. I chose the CF10 over the CF15 as the CF10 in my situation was easier to lift (when empty), move around and clean. I have it resting on a bar. With that said, I am planning on buying another CF10 later this year. That will allow me to do back-to-back brewing on a weekend.

Go with what makes sense for you. Just realize the CF15 is slightly heavier and 4" taller. I'm sure you will be happy with either one!

 

[cozmogeek]

I'm deciding between a CF10 and CF15. I mostly do 10 gallon batches, but I may occasionally do a 15. Anyone doing 10 gallon fermentations in their CF15? Encounter any problems?

10gal fits in the CF15 just fine. I think they say you can do 5 gallons in there and still have the cooling coil work since it drops in so low. The only issue is the thermowell port and the sample port need to be swapped around.
If you ever plan to add fruit or other things to any batches you'll want that extra space. I wish the CF15 was bigger already actually.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I've done several 10g batches in my cf15 and it works great. I'm fortunate enough to be able to use a stand up freezer so I have no first hand experience using the cooling coil but it's advertised as being able to do half batches. I'd get the cf15. Cheers

 

[Nagorg]

I dont have a CF15 but I do have a half barrel Chronical BME (SSBrewTech) and I do mostly 10G batches in it. Its nice to be able to do 15G at times and its awesome to never need a blow-off tube for 10G batches.

The CF15 looks awesome and I'd buy one if I didnt already have the Chronical. Spike gear is great; I have two spike kettles!

 

[jdr01]

Question on sanitizing.
After each use I clean, dry and reassemble my CF15.
Before filling I disassemble and spray parts with starsan as I reassemble. I then fill about half way with starsan and rotate it a bit so the interior gets contact while the wort chills.
Is all that necessary? If it is clean can I just sanitize the interior while still assembled?

 

[timpritchard23]

Question on sanitizing.
After each use I clean, dry and reassemble my CF15.
Before filling I disassemble and spray parts with starsan as I reassemble. I then fill about half way with starsan and rotate it a bit so the interior gets contact while the wort chills.
Is all that necessary? If it is clean can I just sanitize the interior while still assembled?

I just spray bottle all around making sure to get a good coating all around. Spray the coils while rotating too. No problems yet in over a year and probably 30 batches. Also, I've only disassembled a handful of times when cleaning.

 

[jdr01]

That is good to hear. My brew day will be much easier as a result.
Thanks

 

[Blazinlow86]

I just spray bottle all around making sure to get a good coating all around. Spray the coils while rotating too. No problems yet in over a year and probably 30 batches. Also, I've only disassembled a handful of times when cleaning.

I also sanitize using a handpump sprayer however I take off the accessories and soak them separately. Probably not really necessary but I'm super picky. Cheers

 

[jdr01]

Thanks. Both methods sound easier than mine.

 

[jdr01]

Has anyone placed the yeast in the conical before adding the wort? I have height restrictions due to the conical in freezer. There is no room to dump my flask so I transfer to a smaller jar first. I thought I might put the yeast in first before putting the conical in the freezer. I have seen commercial breweries do it but they pump the wort in from the bottom after the yeast.

 

[mongoose33]

Has anyone placed the yeast in the conical before adding the wort? I have height restrictions due to the conical in freezer. There is no room to dump my flask so I transfer to a smaller jar first. I thought I might put the yeast in first before putting the conical in the freezer. I have seen commercial breweries do it but they pump the wort in from the bottom after the yeast.

I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, as long as you're not shocking the yeast with temperature changes.

 

[jdr01]

I am guessing a slower start with the ale yeast at the bottom.

 

[Beardless]

I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, as long as you're not shocking the yeast with temperature changes.

Agreed. Depending on your process for chilling / transferring, pitching after transferring has the added benefit of a last minute temperature “sanity check” to ensure you’re not hurting the living little creatures. If you’re sure of your wort temperature entering the fermenter, I can’t see a big impact of having the yeast in there first. Unless (as a previous poster also mentioned) the yeast stays undisturbed at the bottom it may take them a little longer to start a good fermentation. But I guess it would be similar to racking wort right onto a yeast cake from a previous batch??

 

[mongoose33]

Agreed. Depending on your process for chilling / transferring, pitching after transferring has the added benefit of a last minute temperature “sanity check” to ensure you’re not hurting the living little creatures. If you’re sure of your wort temperature entering the fermenter, I can’t see a big impact of having the yeast in there first. Unless (as a previous poster also mentioned) the yeast stays undisturbed at the bottom it may take them a little longer to start a good fermentation. But I guess it would be similar to racking wort right onto a yeast cake from a previous batch??

I think you're more likely to mix up the yeast well by putting it in the fermenter first, where the wort addition stirs it up. If you just pour a starter in, seems unlikely it would do much more than proceed to the bottom of the fermenter, at least initially.

Some of the LODO people argue that one should add yeast before oxygenating. I mentioned this to a local pro brewer, who argued one should pitch the yeast on top of the oxygenation wand/stone, so as to mix the yeast up more effectively. Seems racking the wort on top of the yeast would have that effect, unless it all just sat in the sight glass in the bottom and the racked wort didn't reach it.

 

[jdr01]

I could try to add the yeast first and pump the wort in from the bottom. I see the pros do it that way. I would have to try with water in my system first to see if my pump could handle that. I am guessing not but worth a try.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I fill mine first then pitch yeast and aerate thru the carb stone using the red tanks. You could definitely add the yeast first but as the others noted you have to be sure your temps correct out if the chiller. Cheers

 

[Blazinlow86]

I could try to add the yeast first and pump the wort in from the bottom. I see the pros do it that way. I would have to try with water in my system first to see if my pump could handle that. I am guessing not but worth a try.

I pump my from the bottom with a chugger pump fwiw. Cheers

 

[jturman35]

What are you guys doing with dry hops? I’m looking to do a NEIPA soon and I’d like to perform two dry hop additions at day 2-3 and another at 10-12 days before kegging. I’m not crazy about the idea of pulling the hop bags out being as this is a NEIPA and they are sensitive to oxidation.

 

[mongoose33]

What are you guys doing with dry hops? I’m looking to do a NEIPA soon and I’d like to perform two dry hop additions at day 2-3 and another at 10-12 days before kegging. I’m not crazy about the idea of pulling the hop bags out being as this is a NEIPA and they are sensitive to oxidation.

There's a thread ongoing right now talking about exactly this. The entire thread is probably worth a look,

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/no-oxygen-dry-hopping.663500/

but on this page there are a number of proposed solutions:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/no-oxygen-dry-hopping.663500/page-3

 

[jturman35]

Never had this happen before. The pic below is of the trub 19 hours after pitching. I dumped about a quart of the cold break that was below and this appears stuck. Somehow this wort managed to sandwich itself. Meanwhile up top this beer is fermenting away. I keep rocking the conical but this seems to be going nowhere.

Suggestions?

 

[Vale71]

Just on a side note that is hot break material and not cold break material that you have there. If it's stuck I'd either wait until the beer is fully carbonated and do a pressurized dump, but if you want to get rid of that sooner rather than later you can pressurize temporarily and then release pressure once the blockage has been succesfully dumped.