Spike Complete System

[Brewfreedom]

My problem had nothing to do with spike. They don’t wire the panel, the electric brewery does. They told me they had already fixed the problem.(new employee error) they thought they had fixed all panels before they had been shipped.

When a component fails on my new Toyota truck that is under warranty I don't go to the part's manufacture for support who may have had a new employee on the line. Does spike not sell this as a system or are they just drop shipping crap?

 

[Blazinlow86]

My problem had nothing to do with spike. They don’t wire the panel, the electric brewery does. They told me they had already fixed the problem.(new employee error) they thought they had fixed all panels before they had been shipped.

Just as a clarification once against "the electric brewery" control panel sold by Kal on his website has ** NOTHING** to do with spike brewing nor the people that make spikes brewing panel fyi. Cheers

 

[Blazinlow86]

When a component fails on my new Toyota truck that is under warranty I don't go to the part's manufacture for support who may have had a new employee on the line. Does spike not sell this as a system or are they just drop shipping crap?

I think the person having the issue should clarify whether they were given a option to send the panel back or if they requested to repair it themselves. Makes a big difference in this particular Case. Cheers

 

[Zenmeister]

In my case, I knew what the problem was and requested to repair it myself. I have no doubt they would have taken it back if I asked them to.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Couple things need to be clarified...

As stated Spike Brewing Equipment is not affiliated with 'The Electric Brewery', 'Kal' or 'Spike Innovations' (who makes The Electric Brewery panels).

We work with Electric Brewing Supply to produce our panels. When an issue arises our tech support team and the Electric Brewing Supply tech support teams work together to resolve the issue. Our tech support teams are not electrical engineers nor are they electricians. This communication channel creates the quickest and most accurate flow of information to the customer.

 

[Blazinlow86]

In my case, I knew what the problem was and requested to repair it myself. I have no doubt they would have taken it back if I asked them to.

Thanks for your clarification. Enjoy your new system I'm sure you will love it. Cheers

 

[Brewfreedom]

What I love about spike. Besides every piece of their equipment ive owned so far -they will jump into the conversation and clear things up. Didn't even know there was a separate company and not - the electric brewery/kal making these. Would have looked at them before grounded but my grounded tech 30 amp panel should be shipping this week so moot point now.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Couple things need to be clarified...

As stated Spike Brewing Equipment is not affiliated with 'The Electric Brewery', 'Kal' or 'Spike Innovations' (who makes The Electric Brewery panels).

Sorry, my mistake. Thought Spike Innovations was the same. I stand corrected.

 

[Neens_]

When a component fails on my new Toyota truck that is under warranty I don't go to the part's manufacture for support who may have had a new employee on the line. Does spike not sell this as a system or are they just drop shipping crap?

Big difference between a car and a mail order electric control panel. Between the option of sending it back or trying to trouble shoot it myself, I’ll save everyone the time and expensive of shipping and spend 20 minutes fixing it. Eventually this will be out of warranty and I’ll have to fix anything that might arise myself, it’s good practice.

 

[Neens_]

Just as a clarification once against "the electric brewery" control panel sold by Kal on his website has ** NOTHING** to do with spike brewing nor the people that make spikes brewing panel fyi. Cheers

Sorry meant to type out supply and just must have forgot to add it.

 

[BeerMaverick]

Correct, Ebrewsupply makes the panels for Spike (the Ebrewsupply manual comes with the Spike system's panel when you order a Spike system). The Electric Brewery (Kal) is completely different as are his panels.

 

[juggabrew]

I installed the herms coil and it sits off center close the wall of the kettle. Is this normal for everyone or should it be centered ? I have it pushed in as far as it will go

 

[Brewfreedom]

I installed the herms coil and it sits off center close the wall of the kettle. Is this normal for everyone or should it be centered ? I have it pushed in as far as it will go

Mine looks pretty centered (20 gallon) but I've been drinking and didn't take measurements.Circulate some water through it from the mashtun and it will let you know if its pushed in enough/have a seal. You do have to push it in a little bit but don't force it. If its lose you will get some spray. better with cold water than wort.

 

[DonMagee]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 15G version. If you had to do it again would you do anything different? Tri-clamp rather than NPT or another vendor all together. I'm getting back into homebrewing after a few years and finally have the money and the time to build a 'dream' system. I want to go full electric and I really like the 3 vessel design. I find the complexity makes it a bit more fun.

 

[jready]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 15G version. If you had to do it again would you do anything different? Tri-clamp rather than NPT or another vendor all together. I'm getting back into homebrewing after a few years and finally have the money and the time to build a 'dream' system. I want to go full electric and I really like the 3 vessel design. I find the complexity makes it a bit more fun.

Personally I would rather go bigger kettles that go tri-clamp if you can. I have the push to connect and don’t see the need to upgrade.

Also, if you can, upgrade the panel to 50amp so you can run both burners.

 

[Brewfreedom]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 15G version. If you had to do it again would you do anything different? Tri-clamp rather than NPT or another vendor all together. I'm getting back into homebrewing after a few years and finally have the money and the time to build a 'dream' system. I want to go full electric and I really like the 3 vessel design. I find the complexity makes it a bit more fun.

Def wish i went w 50 amp. Otherwise no regrets. I’d go w 20 gallon and customize boil kettle to support smaller batches (the need to move wirlpool port) so you can always go bigger or do insane malt loads in small batches.

 

[DonMagee]

Thank you guys. I appreciate the feedback. I almost never brew anything bigger than 5 gallons. I don't know if the extra size would be worth it. I'll think it over.

 

[TheMadKing]

So I'm building a spike based 15 gal E-herms system, all TC fittings, with a 30 amp Auber EZbrew panel, 2 blichmann riptides and a stainless CFC and I have a questions for you owners.

I worked with a spike rep to set up my system and she was awesome and answered every question but I need a sanity check on one of my specs:

1. I asked them to remove the third TC port from the back of the HLT that is intended for the temp probe. I intend to have the HLT water always circulating, so I was planning to put my temp probe on a tee on the outlet of the HLT recirc port. Is that a bad idea?
2. Also based on this thread I may want to upgrade my panel to the 50 amp version - I just need to replace the SSR's and the plugs right? My contactors are all 63A rated so no issues there - or would this require a complete rebuild? I am in the process of assembling my panel from Auber right now.
3. How effective is the whirlpool with the heating element in the boil kettle? I'm interested in getting the clearest wort possible into my fermenter, and I would prefer not to use a hop spider, but I don't know if that's realistic or not.

Edit:

After looking at my panel I think the only thing I need to replace is the input power plug - I used 8 gauge wire for all the input power and a single leg should never carry more than 30 amps so that should be plenty. Auber was also out of all their 30amp parts so they sent me all the parts for their 50 amp panel for free (great customer service!) - So after looking through the two parts lists for the Brewbuddy I and Brewbuddy II, I think I already have a 50 amp panel... unless I'm missing something

@Brewfreedom @juggabrew @Zenmeister @Neens_

 

[daveerickson]

So I'm building a spike based 15 gal E-herms system, all TC fittings, with a 30 amp Auber EZbrew panel, 2 blichmann riptides and a stainless CFC and I have a questions for you owners.

I worked with a spike rep to set up my system and she was awesome and answered every question but I need a sanity check on one of my specs:

1. I asked them to remove the third TC port from the back of the HLT that is intended for the temp probe. I intend to have the HLT water always circulating, so I was planning to put my temp probe on a tee on the outlet of the HLT recirc port. Is that a bad idea?
2. Also based on this thread I may want to upgrade my panel to the 50 amp version - I just need to replace the SSR's and the plugs right? My contactors are all 63A rated so no issues there - or would this require a complete rebuild? I am in the process of assembling my panel from Auber right now.
3. How effective is the whirlpool with the heating element in the boil kettle? I'm interested in getting the clearest wort possible into my fermenter, and I would prefer not to use a hop spider, but I don't know if that's realistic or not.

Edit:

After looking at my panel I think the only thing I need to replace is the input power plug - I used 8 gauge wire for all the input power and a single leg should never carry more than 30 amps so that should be plenty. Auber was also out of all their 30amp parts so they sent me all the parts for their 50 amp panel for free (great customer service!) - So after looking through the two parts lists for the Brewbuddy I and Brewbuddy II, I think I already have a 50 amp panel... unless I'm missing something

@Brewfreedom @juggabrew @Zenmeister @Neens_

I pulled the trigger earlier this week for Spike custom kettles with TC ports, and an Electric Brewing Supply 50a kit. They were both fantastic to work with. Both engaged with me the past few weeks as I asked a lot of questions. I ended up having a 3rd pump added to my kit so I could do full back to back batches.

I also asked Spike about the temp port on the HLT, and they said they get good readings from the kettle, but that a temp probe in a tee works as long as there is flow. I opted to remove the port and mount my temp probe in a tee. This is the way Kal recommends, and numerous others have setup this way with success. I also like that if I wanted I could move the temp probe from the outlet to the inlet, if I found it controlled better from that location.

I had looked at the Brewbuddy as well. I can't say exactly what needs to change, but I seem to remember a pretty detailed parts breakdowns for the products. I think on my controller they beefed up some wiring as well as added a couple of components for controlling the elements independently.

From what I've seen the whirlpool is extremely effective. One recommendation is to let the BK settle for 10 mins post whirlpool to let the trub settle for the clearest wort. I'm going to use a condenser, so a hop spider won't work for me, but there are several filtration options that can be added if the whirlpool isn't enough.

 

[TheMadKing]

I pulled the trigger earlier this week for Spike custom kettles with TC ports, and an Electric Brewing Supply 50a kit. They were both fantastic to work with. Both engaged with me the past few weeks as I asked a lot of questions. I ended up having a 3rd pump added to my kit so I could do full back to back batches.

I also asked Spike about the temp port on the HLT, and they said they get good readings from the kettle, but that a temp probe in a tee works as long as there is flow. I opted to remove the port and mount my temp probe in a tee. This is the way Kal recommends, and numerous others have setup this way with success. I also like that if I wanted I could move the temp probe from the outlet to the inlet, if I found it controlled better from that location.

I had looked at the Brewbuddy as well. I can't say exactly what needs to change, but I seem to remember a pretty detailed parts breakdowns for the products. I think on my controller they beefed up some wiring as well as added a couple of components for controlling the elements independently.

From what I've seen the whirlpool is extremely effective. One recommendation is to let the BK settle for 10 mins post whirlpool to let the trub settle for the clearest wort. I'm going to use a condenser, so a hop spider won't work for me, but there are several filtration options that can be added if the whirlpool isn't enough.

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm looking at a condenser as well so that would be an issue for me too.

I did compare the parts breakdown and it looks like I have everything for the 50amp panel but they don't specify wire gauge in there. I know 50amp requires 6awg so I need to at least replace the input power legs with 6 instead of 8

I think my panel also has an interlock to prevent both elements from running together so I'll need to figure out how to bypass that

 

[Blazinlow86]

Thanks for the feedback!

I'm looking at a condenser as well so that would be an issue for me too.

I did compare the parts breakdown and it looks like I have everything for the 50amp panel but they don't specify wire gauge in there. I know 50amp requires 6awg so I need to at least replace the input power legs with 6 instead of 8

I think my panel also has an interlock to prevent both elements from running together so I'll need to figure out how to bypass that

I think the probe in the T is the way to go. Additional you shouldn't have any issues with whirlpooling. I don't thing the 50 amp upgrades worth it unless you're planning on doing 2 batches back to back.

 

[TheMadKing]

I think the probe in the T is the way to go. Additional you shouldn't have any issues with whirlpooling. I don't thing the 50 amp upgrades worth it unless you're planning on doing 2 batches back to back. View attachment 620233View attachment 620234

Thanks! The only reason I would want the 50 Amp upgrade is so that I can heat cleaning water during the boil, but now that I type that out I realize that I can just use chiller water and pump it back into my HLT for cleaning.

 

[danrb]

I just purchased the spike+ system with a 50A panel. The recommendation is a 60A breaker hooked up to a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Before I have my electrician come out and replace my 50A with a 60A breaker, is it really necessary and safe?

NEMA 14-50 is rated at 50A.
50A is 12,000 Watts. Looking at other similar setups, the draw for running pumps and two 5500 watt elements is 11,260, which puts it at 93% of max current. I understand that breakers are meant to run at 80%, is that why the 60A? If so, why not a NEMA 14-60?

Any experience running with either breakers would be helpful.

Thanks.

 

[daveerickson]

I just purchased the spike+ system with a 50A panel. The recommendation is a 60A breaker hooked up to a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Before I have my electrician come out and replace my 50A with a 60A breaker, is it really necessary and safe?

NEMA 14-50 is rated at 50A.
50A is 12,000 Watts. Looking at other similar setups, the draw for running pumps and two 5500 watt elements is 11,260, which puts it at 93% of max current. I understand that breakers are meant to run at 80%, is that why the 60A? If so, why not a NEMA 14-60?

Any experience running with either breakers would be helpful.

Thanks.

I'm having an electrician out tomorrow to install a 60a GFCI. His point of view is unless the max draw was running for 3 or more hours the 80% rule doesn't need to be followed. Ryan from Electric Brew Supply (panel) reiterated the recommendation of a 60a circuit, and my electrician said it's no problem to put in a 60a circuit with a 50a outlet. I'll have it inspected on Thursday, so if there are issues I'll know by then!

 

[daveerickson]

Inspector was out and had no issues with the 60a breaker on the NEMA 14-50 outlet.

More directly to your question, I don't think you'll have an issue with a 50a breaker. That's what Kal recommends for his panels, and my electrician stated a 50a panel can sit at 49.9a draw indefinitely and not trip the breaker. If it was me I wouldn't bother changing it out. You can always upgrade it later if needed.

I'm assuming it's already a GFCI. If not for sure have it changed out for safety. Also make sure it's a newer style GFCI that won't trip when running 110v items. This is one of the purposes of 4 wire 220 outlets.

 

[juggabrew]

My electrician installed a 60a in the main panel. Then ran a sub panel off that with a 30a and a 20a breaker. This powers my 30a controller and an outlet for misc. stuff like a vent hood in the future and my chest freezer. He’s a master electrician so I’d imagine if you have a 50a controller you’d be fine with it on a 60a breaker

 

[juggabrew]

I just cut and hooked up my hoses. I’m going through a dry run of what hoses need to moved throughout the process. This will take a bit to get used to but it reminds me of when I was an operator for a chemical company.

I know there’s a videos on YouTube with mobcraft. But do any of you have a better or easier process to run the hoses? Different lengths than spike recommends?

 

[Zenmeister]

I just cut and hooked up my hoses. I’m going through a dry run of what hoses need to moved throughout the process. This will take a bit to get used to but it reminds me of when I was an operator for a chemical company.

I know there’s a videos on YouTube with mobcraft. But do any of you have a better or easier process to run the hoses? Different lengths than spike recommends?

I added two more three foot hoses to go from the HLT to the Mash Tun. The longer 6' hoses are now only used for connection to the Boil kettle.
Adding the short hoses for the connection to the MT during heat up and sparging significantly reduced the heat loss in the hoses. This has made the difference between the HLT and MT only 1-2 degrees F, versus about 4-5 Degrees with the longer hoses.

 

[kj9tonne]

I built my own version of the spike system with 30 gallon kettles. I ordered my stainless 72x24" table from webrestaurantsupply.com it was about 250 shipped all stainless rated to hold 900lb I bought some unistrut from Lowe's and reinforced the underside just to be safe. It doesn't even flex with all 3 kettles completely full. I also shortened the legs to make the kettles a more reachable height. For my panel I went with a custom 60a panel it's great being able to file multiple elements at a time for cleaning while I'm boiling. As for kettle insulation I ordered 3 large silicon pot holders to put under the kettle so that the table doesn't act as a huge heat sink. I brewed without them and felt the table, the entire table was hot. I'm sure it helped insulating the kettle from the table but I haven't checked if it reduced my heating time. My mash tun holds temperature better without a doubt.View attachment 551929View attachment 551930

Drumminguy81 - I know this thread is over a year old, but can you provide more details on how you attached the uni-strut to the underside of your table? Did you use large sheet metal screws to attach to the existing reinforcement channel and how are the lengthwise struts attached? Thanks in advance.... have the 20 Gallon spike systems and after the first dry run, I noticed the table sagging a little as well.

 

[Drumminguy81]

Drumminguy81 - I know this thread is over a year old, but can you provide more details on how you attached the uni-strut to the underside of your table? Did you use large sheet metal screws to attach to the existing reinforcement channel and how are the lengthwise struts attached? Thanks in advance.... have the 20 Gallon spike systems and after the first dry run, I noticed the table sagging a little as well.

My length wise struts are bolted to the others using the strut tee nuts and bolts then the short cross struts are screwed into the existing table supports using 1/4" coarse thread screws. Just have to be careful not to over tighten. So far I have not had any issues and have brewed many batches with 50-60lbs of grain plus 60 gallons of water between kettles at one time. No sagging or screws pulling out at all. Hope that helps

 

[kj9tonne]

Perfect thank you for your help.

 

[juggabrew]

Anyone have an equipment profile for BeerSmith? I have the spike 15g system but will mostly be doing 6 gal batches

 

[jready]

I have shared this on another post about the Spike system but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t here. I have done 6 batches this year where I do an overnight mash. Basically get the water heating while I get my grain bill ready then mash in before bed. Set the alarm for 5:30-6:00 get up and start a 45-60 min sparge. Usually boiling by 7:00-7:30 and done with clean up and all by 9:00 maybe 9:30 if I am tinkering with stuff. My efficiency doing this is in the mid 80s and, as far as I can tell, hasn’t sent my electric bill through the roof. It also helps me not to rush the important things like sparge, whirlpool and the rest after the whirlpool. (and it seems to make my significant other much happier that the whole day isn’t shot) Just thought I’d share for those who haven’t tried it.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I have shared this on another post about the Spike system but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t here. I have done 6 batches this year where I do an overnight mash. Basically get the water heating while I get my grain bill ready then mash in before bed. Set the alarm for 5:30-6:00 get up and start a 45-60 min sparge. Usually boiling by 7:00-7:30 and done with clean up and all by 9:00 maybe 9:30 if I am tinkering with stuff. My efficiency doing this is in the mid 80s and, as far as I can tell, hasn’t sent my electric bill through the roof. It also helps me not to rush the important things like sparge, whirlpool and the rest after the whirlpool. (and it seems to make my significant other much happier that the whole day isn’t shot) Just thought I’d share for those who haven’t tried it.

I've considered doing this but not sure I'm comfortable leaving the system running overnight to save that little time myself. Happy wife happy life though. Cheers

 

[kj9tonne]

Perfect thank you for your help.

Figured I would share the finished product for the table reinforcement idea from DrummingGuy81. Thanks again DrummingGuy81...this worked perfectly and table is not flexing at all now.

Also attached are pics of how I attached my pumps with two stainless steel muffler clamps. Had to drill 1/2" holes in the pump base to get the right length and half moon the washers. It's rock solid. McMaster Carr part # for the clamp is 3042T162 - they were $6.91 each and add in a few extra nuts and washers to attach the 2nd pump to the same clamps.

 

[Drumminguy81]

Figured I would share the finished product for the table reinforcement idea from DrummingGuy81. Thanks again DrummingGuy81...this worked perfectly and table is not flexing at all now.

Also attached are pics of how I attached my pumps with two stainless steel muffler clamps. Had to drill 1/2" holes in the pump base to get the right length and half moon the washers. It's rock solid. McMaster Carr part # for the clamp is 3042T162 - they were $6.91 each and add in a few extra nuts and washers to attach the 2nd pump to the same clamps.

View attachment 625398 View attachment 625399 View attachment 625400

Looks awesome! Glad you took pictures! Looks exactly like mine, glad I was able to help a little.

 

[TheMadKing]

Figured I would share the finished product for the table reinforcement idea from DrummingGuy81. Thanks again DrummingGuy81...this worked perfectly and table is not flexing at all now.

Also attached are pics of how I attached my pumps with two stainless steel muffler clamps. Had to drill 1/2" holes in the pump base to get the right length and half moon the washers. It's rock solid. McMaster Carr part # for the clamp is 3042T162 - they were $6.91 each and add in a few extra nuts and washers to attach the 2nd pump to the same clamps.

View attachment 625398 View attachment 625399 View attachment 625400

What is the advantage of mounting your pumps like that vs just drilling holes in the bottom shelf of your table and mounting them directly to the shelf?

 

[kj9tonne]

What is the advantage of mounting your pumps like that vs just drilling holes in the bottom shelf of your table and mounting them directly to the shelf?

seeing this on other Spike Systems I thought it would be more convenient during brew day - less bending over to connect hoses.

 

[TheMadKing]

seeing this on other Spike Systems I thought it would be more convenient during brew day - less bending over to connect hoses.

Thanks!

Second question, why did you put ball valves on the riptides? Do their built in valves not work well?

 

[kj9tonne]

Those valves are for bleeding air from the system for priming (this is a Spike design and it works great). The inlet of the pump is rotated to the top as opposed to the bottom. I really do not use the Blichmann valves - I bought these pumps because they are quiet and they perform well.