Speeding up BIAB brew days

[Bristol D]

Hi all

I'm fairly new to brewing, I started maybe a year ago with a few 1 gallon stove-top BIAB brews, before moving up to a 56 litre kettle and propane burner BIAB setup. The only time I'm able to brew is in the evenings, after my kids are asleep, and so one of my biggest priorities has been working out ways of making things quicker. So far, all the corners I'm cutting haven't stopped the beer being delicious.

Here are my current ways of speeding things up;

- Fill kettle with water straight from hot tap (after setting the boiler to maximum heat). I have a combi boiler so the hot water hasn't been sitting in a rat-filled tank. This means I get up to mash temp before I have managed to weigh out grains and get other bits and bobs ready.

- No chill. I've got a 'cube' which works well, though I'm not sure how happy I am about putting hot beer into plastic. I've also just left the beer to cool in the kettle overnight with no ill effects, and transferred to the fermenter the next morning.

- 30 min mash. With a bit of stirring my mash efficiency seems pretty good.

Things that I think could do but haven't done yet;

- Get grains ready in advance. At the moment I'm getting up to mash temp before I've got the grains all weighed out and need to turn the burner off.

- Shorten the boil. Is 60 minutes really necessary? Would the beer be less tasty with a 30 min boil?

Does anyone have any other ideas for speeding up the brew? Any comments on all this?

Cheers all

 

[estricklin]

I haven't played around with shorter boils much, but plenty of folks do 30 min boils, it may work better in some recipes than other obviously, hops are the main issue. May need to change your hop schedule.

Wrap some aluminum foil around your burner for a windscreen, you'll get to strike, and boil much quicker.

That no chill, leaving in the kettle all night is a neat trick, I'm guilty of it myself from time to time.

 

[RM-MN]

- Shorten the boil. Is 60 minutes really necessary? Would the beer be less tasty with a 30 min boil?

I've read that hops give 90% of their bittering in the first 30 minutes so that's how long I boil. I can't say that I've noticed much difference except that I have 30 more minutes to do something else instead of watching a pot boil.

No chill works great if you only have bittering hops. If you have late additions they keep on adding bitterness and losing the aromatic oils as the wort cools. I will put the boil pot into a tub of cold water which brings the temperature down quickly at first, then much slower as the difference in temperature becomes less. Sometimes I dump out the water and replace it with cooler water or if there is snow on the ground, add snow to the water.

 

[tellyho]

I've definitely moved to shorter boils. Might just require some more hops to get the bitterness you want. These days, many of my hops go in after the boil anyway.

If you're really looking to make it faster, electric is what you want. I brew 5 gal batches; 5500kw element takes water from ground temp to boil in 20 minutes. My all grain brew day is about 4 hours (with a full boil).

 

[McKnuckle]

^See above. Not only is 220V electric quite fast, but you have the convenience of doing things indoors like prepping in advance during a short time segment when you are free. You can do that in starts and stops - few minutes here and there.

You can boil the water and then flame out and put the lid on, so that way when you brew later it is still hot and comes up to strike temp much more quickly. You can weigh, mill, and bag grain for the recipe. You can weigh and contain hops.

Personally I am not willing to do things like no-chill, since it complicates hopping techniques which are already a PITA to decide on.

Short boils are okay for many styles. Short mashes are not for me; despite the "conversion happens quickly" claims, it has not been my experience that the grain gives up the goods quite that readily.

 

[Bristol D]

Thanks for all this! If anyone out there is having success with short boils then I'll give it a go, so its good to hear that's the case.

An electric system would be something for the distant future in my case but good to know they're quick.

As for the no-chill and hopping techniques... I think I probably need to complicate my own approach a bit! My attempts at hoppy IPAs have definitely been extremely bitter, much more bitter than aromatic. Sounds like the not chilling has got something to do with that.

I've actually really enjoyed the hyper bitter beers i've made, but working out a way to keep bitterness under control while keeping the no-chill approach would be good. (I've currently got no way of chilling regardless of the time it takes, since water supply for my immersion chiller is out of action).

I know I've come across people talking about 'hop tea'. Maybe I could try boiling up my 'late addition' hops separately in a small pan, chilling in the sink with ice, keeping in something sanitized and adding to the fermenter when I transfer the main wort the next day....

Is that something no-chillers have tried?

 

[RM-MN]

I've actually really enjoyed the hyper bitter beers i've made, but working out a way to keep bitterness under control while keeping the no-chill approach would be good. (I've currently got no way of chilling regardless of the time it takes, since water supply for my immersion chiller is out of action).

Many recipes call for flavor hops added late in the boil. With no-chill those turn into bittering hops but if you wait until the wort cools some, probably below 170F, to add them there will be little bitterness added by them and that will help preserve the flavor. Also, for the big hop aroma you don't want to boil off the very aromatic oils so wait until the fermentation is done and add them as "dry hopping" for 3 to 7 days before you bottle/keg.

 

[ABI Brewery]

I have added a tri clamp bung to my Tall Boy mash tun so that I can do a BIAB with it, my usual set-up is a 10 gallon recirculating keggle set-up, but in an effort to have some quicker brew days I got a false bottom from Brew Hardware and now can use that for 5 gallon BIAB. I am really excited to try it, I have been getting the final few pieces put together but I think that it will work out well.

 

[LittleRiver]

...Does anyone have any other ideas for speeding up the brew? ...

Keep your brew rig simple, so there will be less to set up, clean up, and put away.

Crush your grains fine, so you will get good conversion in a shortened mash (sounds like you're already on top of this).

I've done 45min mashes (and boils) and have not had a problem. Others have gone even shorter.

You can experiment with mashing one day and boiling the next. There are some things to be aware of with that, which are described in this article.

 

[schmurf]

Keep your brew rig simple, so there will be less to set up, clean up, and put away.

This. My brew day got so much easier, and also somewhat faster, after I removed all the good-to-have-but-never-got-used stuff from my workplace. I just keep the things I know I'm going to need close, nothing else. No more searching for equipment and bits and moving things around. Make sure day before brew day all things are in place, clean and ready for use.

 

[Bristol D]

Keep your brew rig simple, so there will be less to set up, clean up, and put away.

I just keep the things I know I'm going to need close, nothing else.

This seems like excellent advice. My setup is probably fairly simple already. The key for me is probably storage and accessibility. Pretty much the biggest faff when I brew is dragging things out of the back of the shed, hauling massive propane tanks around, going to and fro to get various bits and bobs. Definitely worth thinking about how I can keep things together and ready to go!

 

[stosh]

Much like the advice above here's some of what I do. I want my brew days to be as effortless as Wayne Gretzky playing hockey.

I set up my brew area with everything I need ahead of time so I don't waste my steps. I mean steps literally.
Weigh and crush grain a day or two before brew day.
Weigh my hop additions in advance. They are kept cold till brew day when I line them up and label them according to their place in the recipe.
Measure water and put it in the needed vessel on the burner connected to the propane with the lighter next to it ready to go (Make sure I have enough propane).
Make sure the blanket, sleeping bag, and towels I use to insulate the mash are ready to go near the burner.
I have a twin tub utility sink in the garage where I brew so I prep both tubs with ice/snow/water to help chill depending what I'm brewing.
Shorten mash and boil times - this one I'm new at seeing what if any effect it has on the finished product.
Full volume mash/boil then hang the bag and let it drain throughout the boil.
When I brew with friends they each get assigned a task which is usually cleaning up.
I switched to brewing between 1-3 gallon batches from 5 gal batches for the following reasons:
It's easier to handle by myself (seems a little quicker to heat up/cool down but I haven't done a time study on that yet), I realized that 5 gallons was too much for me to drink/I prefer variety, I like to experiment

I get everything ready in advance that I possibly can. Everything gets laid out on a table. When I was first figuring out how to do all this and what I needed for each brew I would take notes during each brew session on what could have been done better/more efficient.

I've also found that if I prep a little bit each day leading up to the brew day I'm best prepared on brew day and things flow as simply as they can.

Here's why this works for me...I am a retired auto service tech. Almost 20 years with BMW with some time at a Lamborghini/Lotus dealer for fun. I earned an exceptional living not because I worked on expensive cars but because I was very organized and efficient. My wife teases me b/c the only things that are organized besides my brew gear and reloading equipment are my three tool boxes.

I like the process of brewing, learning, experimenting, refining my process to make it better. I refined my process of fixing cars to earn a great living and those skills translated well to brewing. I have what I need written down now in outline form for different beer styles. This way I know what to put in the box in the basement to bring up to the garage. Trying to reduce it down to one trip up and down with gear. Before I did this I was constantly going up and down between basement and garage. I was constantly moving and not relaxed.

My job now since I've changed careers is stressful plus we have a 4 year old and 18 month old. My 4 year old is my hop meister and he adds the hops when it's time. This allows me to spend time with him. In the summer many times the whole family is in the garage with me. Throw in a few friends along with family and my streamlined brew process frees up time so I can smoke a pork shoulder, ribs, brisket, whatever. Can't ask for much more.

Refining things and having a process keeps me relaxed. I enjoy the process and I enjoy myself be it with others or on my own.

 

[Samudell]

I do a 30 min boil and use a coffee burr grinder that mills my grains pretty fine and have just started doing 30 min mashes. Hit all the starting numbers now have to wait and see how they taste. Shaved an hour off

 

[ABI Brewery]

This is all great advice guys, I cant wait to put some of it to work, I am just finishing my new BIAB set up and will taking alot of pointers from you BIAB veterans, I will keep you posted, also I have a 12 lb Golden promise grain bill, would a 30 min mash @ 152 work out for me, Im doing a SMaSH with citra.

 

[McKnuckle]

What happens when you steep a tea bag for the generally recommended time of 4 minutes? Properly decent tasting tea, usually.

Cut the time in half and what does the tea taste like? Milder, bland, sometimes even insipid - usually.

Apply this example to mashing. I just think that mashing is one of the last places you want to cut corners. This is where you extract sugars, but also those critical flavor components.

Just an opinion.

And unlike tea which can be over-extracted until it becomes bitter, you can't realistically do that with a mash unless you extend the time for many hours and don't manage temperature.

 

[Miraculix]

I ferment in my boil kettle and I boil for ten to thirty minutes. I mash for about an hour.

 

[balrog]

I have to agree with @McKnuckle on mashing. I have tried 30m mashes. Flavor was thinner, esp ambers/alts with darker grains; not as noticeable with lighter kolsch/cream ales.

Setting up night before is the biggest time saver, grains hops salts equipment.

 

[Samudell]

This is all great advice guys, I cant wait to put some of it to work, I am just finishing my new BIAB set up and will taking alot of pointers from you BIAB veterans, I will keep you posted, also I have a 12 lb Golden promise grain bill, would a 30 min mash @ 152 work out for me, Im doing a SMaSH with citra.

If u mill ur grains really fine u will be ok

 

[ABI Brewery]

I have had these grains for a couple weeks and they were milled the LHBS, should I run them through my mill at a about the .023 that everyone is talking about, I have since gotten a barley crusher that i think this would be the right time to finally use it.

 

[Miraculix]

I have had these grains for a couple weeks and they were milled the LHBS, should I run them through my mill at a about the .023 that everyone is talking about, I have since gotten a barley crusher that i think this would be the right time to finally use it.

Won't hurt!

 

[LittleRiver]

...should I run them through my mill at a about the .023 ...

Yes, definitely run them through your mill.

 

[Ninoid]

- BIAB no sparge. 20 minutes is enough if add 20% more grain.
- no mash out, boil immediately. You can boil only 15 minutes for flavor and aroma hops if you make correction of the recipe and increase the amount of bitterness hops. Beer color maybe will be lighter with shorter boil.
- no chill in well sealed container (can be fermenter with a stopper instead of airlock). You can fast chill wort under 75'C and no worry for bitterness increasing.
- pitch yeast next day and put airlock

 

[Miraculix]

- BIAB no sparge. 20 minutes is enough if add 20% more grain.
- no mash out, boil immediately. You can boil only 15 minutes for flavor and aroma hops if you make correction of the recipe and increase the amount of bitterness hops. Beer color maybe will be lighter with shorter boil.
- no chill in well sealed container (can be fermenter with a stopper instead of airlock). You can fast chill wort under 75'C and no worry for bitterness increasing.
- pitch yeast next day and put airlock

Be careful with the stopper in the fermenter. If it's glass or might create a vacuum which will make the glass implode.

 

[RM-MN]

Be careful with the stopper in the fermenter. If it's glass or might create a vacuum which will make the glass implode.

That won't be a problem as if you pour your boiling hot wort into the glass fermenter it will explode so you won't have to worry about it imploding. Glass doesn't like sudden temperature changes.

 

[Pkrd]

The only time I'm able to brew is in the evenings, after my kids are asleep,

When mine were young I'd mash in (usually they would stir while I added the grain), then get them into bed during that hour. Worked well.

 

[Ninoid]

I use plastic fermenter and pour wort on 75'C after hopstand and whirpool.
Plastic does not tolerate higher temperatures without deformation.

 

[Miraculix]

I use plastic fermenter and pour wort on 75'C after hopstand and whirpool.
Plastic does not tolerate higher temperatures without deformation.

Yeah.... Learned that the hard way with my hydrometer cylinder

 

[RM-MN]

I use plastic fermenter and pour wort on 75'C after hopstand and whirpool.
Plastic does not tolerate higher temperatures without deformation.

You need to qualify the type of plastic as plastic covers a wide range of materials with wildly varying characteristics. I have dumped boiling wort into my HDPE buckets without deformation although the sides do get a little softer. Trying that same thing with a Big Mouth Bubbler probably would get you different results.

 

[balrog]

Doing that with a Better Bottle gives you.....art.

 

[Ninoid]

You need to qualify the type of plastic as plastic covers a wide range of materials with wildly varying characteristics. I have dumped boiling wort into my HDPE buckets without deformation although the sides do get a little softer. Trying that same thing with a Big Mouth Bubbler probably would get you different results.

Hot wort in plastic fermenter with stopper create vacuum and deforms plastic (and HDPE).

 

[wilserbrewer]

Hot wort in plastic fermenter with stopper create vacuum and deforms plastic (and HDPE).

Many many homebrewers are packing their nearboiling wort in HDPE without issue, vacuum and all.

I believe HDPE is considered stable up to 240 degrees.

Containers used tend to be fairly sturdy as the HDPE will soften at high temps, but many do it and are pleased without deforming the hdpe container.

The aussies named it “no chill”

 

[Ninoid]

I have two completely identical plastic fermenters bought in the same store. One not deform, but one deform.
It is only logical to me that one who deforms better seals on the lid.

 

[squaremile]

Coming out of retirement for this (I started the no boil thread back in the day). I've been reducing steps for BIAB down to what is below.

1. Mash with half the water for 15-20min depending on the efficiency I want.

2. Boil 15-20min depending on hop schedule.

3. Use the second half of the water to cool the wort almost instantly to about 110. Cover and leave until the next day so it gets to ambient temp to pitch.

Start to finish 80ish minutes, awesome results.

Good luck!

 

[tellyho]

Coming out of retirement for this (I started the no boil thread back in the day). I've been reducing steps for BIAB down to what is below.

1. Mash with half the water for 15-20min depending on the efficiency I want.

2. Boil 15-20min depending on hop schedule.

3. Use the second half of the water to cool the wort almost instantly to about 110. Cover and leave until the next day so it gets to ambient temp to pitch.

Start to finish 80ish minutes, awesome results.

Good luck!

Add Kveik to this and you could conceivably pitch the same day.

 

[Henbrew]

My tips are:

- Stir the wort with my immersion chiller as much as possible. This significantly decreases the time it takes to cool.

- Make wife turn on stove when she wakes up to begin heating water for mash so I can sleep in an extra 30min... I think that counts.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

- no chill in well sealed container . You can fast chill wort under 75'C and no worry for bitterness increasing.
- pitch yeast next day and put airlock

Yup, quick chill to ~70°C takes about 5-10 mins and provides me with hot water for cleaning too so no waste there.

Many many homebrewers are packing their nearboiling wort in HDPE without issue, vacuum and all.

I believe HDPE is considered stable up to 240 degrees.

Containers used tend to be fairly sturdy as the HDPE will soften at high temps, but many do it and are pleased without deforming the hdpe container.

The aussies named it “no chill”

Just a quick add on to this - I tried doing this in my fermenting buckets which have spigots. The spigot seal did not hold so if you want to no chill chose the vessel carefully. This is why I no chill in the kettle or else use cornies as fermenters.

 

[RM-MN]

Yup, quick chill to ~70°C takes about 5-10 mins and provides me with hot water for cleaning too so no waste there.



Just a quick add on to this - I tried doing this in my fermenting buckets which have spigots. The spigot seal did not hold so if you want to no chill chose the vessel carefully. This is why I no chill in the kettle or else use cornies as fermenters.

The bucket fermenters are made from HDPE but the spigots are not. If you want to take a plastic spigot apart to thoroughly clean it, hot water from the tap may be enough to loosen it.

 

[LostHopper]

^See above.

Personally I am not willing to do things like no-chill, since it complicates hopping techniques which are already a PITA to decide on.

Short boils are okay for many styles. Short mashes are not for me; despite the "conversion happens quickly" claims, it has not been my experience that the grain gives up the goods quite that readily.

I'm in McKnuckle's camp here. No short mashes but I will use short boils on basic pale ales (Basic Brewing Podcast). You just have to adjust volumes since you are reducing boil off. I have found I get adequate bittering with shorter boils+flameout additions with hop stand.


If you really want to shorten your brew day for 1 gallon batches go the full Basic Brewing Hop sampler method: DME+short boil+hop stand+chill>Done

 

[Jako]

Yeah.... Learned that the hard way with my hydrometer cylinder

lol i did this with my racking cane. i have a picture of it going in 3 different directions...

 

[Ninoid]

I'm in McKnuckle's camp here. No short mashes but I will use short boils on basic pale ales (Basic Brewing Podcast). You just have to adjust volumes since you are reducing boil off. I have found I get adequate bittering with shorter boils+flameout additions with hop stand.


If you really want to shorten your brew day for 1 gallon batches go the full Basic Brewing Hop sampler method: DME+short boil+hop stand+chill>Done

I've been experimenting for a long time with short boil and it may be said that I have a lot of experience with that. I was first trying No Boil and I was not happy because rapid quality ruin of beer and unsatisfactory bitterness.
The next thing I've been try is a short boil of 5, 10 and 15 minutes and hopstand up to 30 minutes. So I was pleased and got a good beer that lasts for months without losing quality. I think 5 minutes is not enough, but 10 is quite satisfactory. Even with pilsner malt. After that I tried to make a beer with a hops just in a hopstand. The aroma relatively quickly decreased, but also the bitterness.

By my experience most of the bitterness is best obtained with FWH hops and 10-15 minutes boil, and the aroma and some additional bitterness can be obtained with hopstand 20-30 minutes.

If you use grain from well-known malting factories boil of 60 or more minutes simply not needed.