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Something You Wish You’d Started Doing Sooner (in Home Brewing)

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SwampFoxBrewer

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Hi all, new brewer here. I fully anticipate that there’s a similar thread or two with this kind of theme, so please feel free to point me towards any other resource you know would be helpful.

I’m the kind of person who dives in headfirst when he discovers a new interest or hobby, and home brewing happens to be the latest installment. I’m absolutely fascinated by the process, and I’ve already started devouring multiple home brewing books, forums, videos, etc.

While resources are great, I’ve always found that the best ways to learn are a.) doing it yourself and b.) asking others what they’ve done. That being said:

Looking back on when you first started home brewing, what is something you know now that you wish you knew (or did) then?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you’re willing to share!
 
In no particular order.

Focus on details rather than increasing output volume
Brew more often
Take extensive notes
Focus 80% of your budget on the cold side such as oxygen sealed fermenters and good temp control
Pitch more yeast than your instinct by using pitch calculators
+1
I'll just add patience. Very tough at the beginning.
 
The internet dry hopping techniques you see like dry hop during high krausen or tail end of fermentation just never worked for me with hoppy beers. Flushing with co2 and all that. Oxidation or weak hop character every time. Magnets suck to use for me as well.

I got one of those hop bongs and it’s no stress dry hopping. Works great. Dry hop anytime. They weren’t available when I started, but I wish they were.

I went straight to kegging with closed transfers. This is something I’m glad I did right away. After oxidizing IPAs dry hopping them(especially Hazy IPAs) in the fermenter it’s very hard to believe people aren’t oxidizing them by siphoning and bottling etc.
 
Closed transfers and kegging! I expect many to chime in with temperature control and that'll be my next focus, but now I've got my CO2 kit, I'm better positioned to handle beer that's been carefully prepared.
 
Closed transfer to keg: “Keep out the oxygen from the final package and keep the beer cold. And minimise the time from production to consumption. Worry about these things before anything else.” (Bamforth).
 
While I've learned...and continue to learn a lot from various resources (HBT mainly, AHA articles, YouTube, etc.), the in-person things that I've done seem to have filled in a lot of gaps.

Brewing w/other people
Tastings : Yeast comparison, off flavors, malts

I haven't gotten to the point where I've joined a local club, although I've thought about it multiple times. I'm still fortunate enough to have a LHBS that still does home brewing classes, so I've been tossing around the idea of attending one of those too. I'm sure I'd glean something out of it.
 
Definitely take careful notes, both of your recipes (including your intentions when you designed or implemented the recipe, and the result you perceived) and of basic info (a few classic recipes to refer to, some mathy figures, how a mash or fermentation works--anything you might want to refer to on the fly. It really does come in handy early on!)

Simple time also make noticeable difference. If you can wait a little longer before bottling or tasting, you will be rewarded. Beer can be ready in 2 weeks or less but if you can let something sit for a month or more, that will often balance things and just improve everything--clarity, taste, head retention, etc. You can basically do no harm by letting it sit. The trouble is that in the early days it can be hard to wait a month or more to see your results!

I also wish I didn't buy ALL the different yeasts to try, which just made things more unpredictable and strange. A pale ale is boring, so why not make it Belgian or Saison by changing the yeast? (....and then inevitably tweaking a few other ingredients until I have a new and untested recipe designed by a beginner!) That sounds more fun but makes learning harder, and makes awful mistakes more likely. Since my first few brew days took hours longer than I can do them now, making a weird/bad beer was a silly thing to do. I should have been a tad more disciplined and stuck more to classic, standard recipes that I know I will enjoy. The classic styles seemed so boring, but lo and behold, they are my favorites to brew now.

I think this has a lot to do with upfront gear costs, since your first beers will indeed cost an arm and a leg compared to what you can just buy at a store. So of course they should be special, right? This was bad thinking for me as a beginner. A better thought: I paid extra for the learning materials, and if it pans out, future beers will be cheap and tasty thanks to my time in "school" early on.
 
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I wish I had started homebrewing earlier in life.:cool:


Amen! This all day long. I started brewing in 2012........about 8 years after getting my first Northern Brewer catalog (the infamous "How I Stopped Worrying and Loved My Homebrew" cover). I don't know why I waited so long, but truth be told, I wished I had started when I got out of high school in 1990.

There's no telling where I'd be today. Maybe my own brewery, YouTube channel, etc., who knows? I would bank I'd be happier had I started earlier (not that I'm unhappy btw).
 
1. Quit thinking I was going to start a brewery
2. Quit thinking every batch was some how this MAGICAL concoction that has never been done before.
3. Have more FUN with just playing with stuff in the brewery.
4. stop worrying about the numbers and just enjoy the process and the result.
5. Distilling



Cheers
Jay
 
Mashing. For no good reason I was intimidated by the overall process. I brewed extract a long time before I gave it a shot.
Probably didn't help that I was more cost-conscious earlier due to having 4 kids lining up to go to college.
The process intimidation and the need to buy more gear was the obstacle.

The first time I mashed I was shocked at how much simpler it was than I thought it would be.
 
Before you start improving your process you have to have a process to improve.

It’s possible to make beer that’s quite drinkable without temp control, water adjustments, or O2 elimination. Learn how to make basic, classic, beer styles and brew those styles on a basic, beginner’s system, until you can brew the same beer twice. When you get to that point you can start improving your process, and the quality of your beers, by adopting some more advanced methods. Before you can make great beer you have to learn the basics of just making beer.
 
I’m a fairly new to this, only 7 brews but learned about oxidation and iPAs on brew 2 and how that was a thing. I love my IPAs so wanted to take that seriously!

That drove me to pressure fermentation/fermzilla all rounder, kegging and closed transfers. Then getting a kegerator for temp control for fermentation, cold crashing, and serving. I brew via BIAB all grain to keep things simple. I monitor fermentation and temp via an ispiindel. I also bottle which lead me to counterpressure bottle filling. Had no idea I would be on this path, but glad I made all these equipment choices as its a solid foundation so far. It's so much more than just some simple extract bucket kit, so somewhat steep equipment buying curve early on IMHO.

One thing I knew was to nail down the equipment sooner than later, and wanted to avoid a whole room of used equipment like I see in Craigslist ads.

Brewing via 2.5 gal batches allows me to brew more often and iterate quicker, which has been working out great. (I split the 5 gal kits)
 
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Now I'm intrigued...


Here's a pic of the cover. It's "catalog 15". Back then, they would put a coupon code on the back of the catalog, under the mailing address. The date the coupon code expired was December 2004. I hadn't been married long when I ordered that catalog.

20230112_172230.jpg


Here's a couple more pics. The "three hearted ale" would become their Dead Ringer kit. Check out the How To Brew book and Palmer on the cover. LOL! I think my copy is v3.

20230112_172115.jpg20230112_171929.jpg
 
Here's a pic of the cover. It's "catalog 15". Back then, they would put a coupon code on the back of the catalog, under the mailing address. The date the coupon code expired was December 2004. I hadn't been married long when I ordered that catalog.

View attachment 810024


Here's a couple more pics. The "three hearted ale" would become their Dead Ringer kit. Check out the How To Brew book and Palmer on the cover. LOL! I think my copy is v3.

View attachment 810026View attachment 810025

Clever parody. Thanks for sharing.
 
All grain brewing - I thought it was way more complicated than it really is. If I knew then what I know now, I would have never went extract for my first attempt at brewing. Not hating on extract, but all grain is a little more fun. It does take some time to learn the process/lingo but it gets easy over time.
Bulk grains/hops - I used to order individual recipe kits and only brew those. I then decided to pick up a 50lb sack of 2-row and a few adjuncts/specialty grains that I found I was using in the styles I like. I also decided to do the same with hops, and put them in the freezer. Having grain & hops on hand at all times, and a few packs of dry yeast in the fridge, I can now brew whenever I want. With a variety of different hops I can also experiment with various hop combos.
Oxygen free post-fermentation - Oxidation is what made me give up on brewing 5 years ago when all of my beers tasted and looked like garbage. I thought it may be partially/totally caused by using malt extracts so I decided to get back into brewing with all grain. My first batch tasted and looked awesome at transfer time but then in a short amount of time began to suffer from oxidation. This is when I learned I could make good beer and there was something happening after my transfer. I began researching and learned oxygen was likely the issue, and that was it. 5 years ago I did read about avoiding oxygen but I didn't take it seriously -- kind of like hearing people swear by having to transfer to a secondary.
Cleaning up during brew day - I used to do my entire cleanup after pitching. I now begin cleaning once I am done with an item. By the time I pitch, I have to only clean my kettle, wort chiller, spoon, a few buckets, and wipe down counters. There's 30-60 minutes of boil time, perfect way to put that time to good use.
Fermenting/serving from the same keg
 
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