Soldering Stainless steel

[Sawdustguy]

Very, very nice! What prompted you to try all this?

 

[BargainFittings]

Very, very nice! What prompted you to try all this?

I get bored and like to learn new things. I thought others would benefit from what I learned.

I've always been an open source kinda guy you know? Learn and move on. Share what you know.

 

[BargainFittings]

Installed a half coupling.

Cleaned up the kettle a bit and center punched it.

Drilled out 1/8" hole

Drilled out to 7/8"

Finished out hole to diameter of half coupling. Did not measure it.

 

[BargainFittings]

As you can see I got a VERY tight fit on the fitting.

Inside shot of fitting

Solder barely wicks through to other side.

Outside before cleaning it up fully

 

[Budzu]

I will be attempting this with solder and SS close nipples for all my keggle holes. I have 10 years experience with lead-free and high temp silver solder, in an application where it must look flawless on brass.

I have a couple questions:

In order to thread in a 1/2" SS nipple, what hole size should I start with before the tap?

What tap size does this require? 1/2" is inner size, not thread size correct?

As my heating will be electric, I'm assuming that even soft solder would be sufficient with the nipples threaded in.

Thanks in advance, I'm just a little confused about sizes as all my plans so far have involved going weldless.

 

[BargainFittings]

You will need a fairly thick wall vessel to create a thread. I drill my holes one size under the final fit and just keep tweaking the hole with the step bit until it almost fits. I use a grinding stone on my drill to clean up the edges and widen the hole slowly until the nipple will screw in.

I lightly sand around the hole. Flux the fitting and and a half inch around the hole and solder the fitting in.

1/2" nipples will fit tight in a 13/16" hole. If you thread the hole you will need a 1/2" NPT Tap.

 

[mmurray]

What would you think about using a 45% or 56% silver solder rod with the flux on the rod?

I know it's more expensive than the plumbers lead free, but in your opinion would you get a cleaner joint with less solder fill? Not to mention that high content silver solder is much better with dissimilar metals. Also with the flux core the joint would only need to be cleaned set and then heated in preperation for the solder.

Ideas, opinions, Corrections?

 

[Brewmoor]

What would you think about using a 45% or 56% silver solder rod with the flux on the rod?

I know it's more expensive than the plumbers lead free, but in your opinion would you get a cleaner joint with less solder fill? Not to mention that high content silver solder is much better with dissimilar metals. Also with the flux core the joint would only need to be cleaned set and then heated in preperation for the solder.

Ideas, opinions, Corrections?

I used the silv 56 rod on my kettles. I think techinally I was brazing. You need a bit hotter flame and longer face time with the material. I liked using it. Just about as easy as using solder and sweating connections.

Use the 56. I don't think the 45 meets our qaulifications for higher gravity liquids. I can't remember. When I was looking around there was a reason I went with the 56. Higher percentage of silver but, There was another reason too.

Here is the stuff I used:

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=69750&WT.svl=69750

With this flux:

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=246456&WT.svl=246456

All FDA approved.

 

[inspector13]

How well would the Mapp gas work with the silver solder?

 

[Brewmoor]

Should work great. That is what I use to solder copper. I used MAPP/OXY for brazing with the Saftey-Silv 56. I think you would prefer it to propane for any job.

 

[mmurray]

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=144145&WT.svl=144145

But what would you think about using this instead of the 56% rod you posted and the Stay-Silv flux?

It's 56% Silver with a flux coating? I've used the 45% with flux coating to solder copper to carbon steel and it worked and flowed so easily.

 

[Brewin_Bob]

I've been absent from the forums for a while, so here's my "stupid" question. Would it be worthwhile to solder a stainless coupler onto an aluminum pot? Or is that a bad idea? Thanks.

 

[Brewmoor]

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=144145&WT.svl=144145

But what would you think about using this instead of the 56% rod you posted and the Stay-Silv flux?

It's 56% Silver with a flux coating? I've used the 45% with flux coating to solder copper to carbon steel and it worked and flowed so easily.

That would be fine I suppose. Though I would probably still use the paste flux too. It helps protect the area around the weld as well as makes the puddle flow a little better. I used it on the inside and outside of my keg when brazing my fittings.

 

[BargainFittings]

I've been absent from the forums for a while, so here's my "stupid" question. Would it be worthwhile to solder a stainless coupler onto an aluminum pot? Or is that a bad idea? Thanks.

Looks like there is product out there.
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=5

They carry the solder and the flux.

 

[Skins_Brew]

When I experimented silver soldering a few months ago, I was using an Oxy acetylene torch, the stay clean flux, and standard plumbing solder and the results were pretty crappy. I was thinking about this post today and gave it another try. This time I was using a propane torch and I was getting some decent results! There was actual metal to metal bonding of the solder! The one thing that totally screwed me in my previous attempt was the lack of sanding! I sanded the parts today and had instant success.


I did not clean them up, but I was pretty satisfied with the results and the ease of this. I may practice a little more and give a keg a try.

 

[BargainFittings]

Yes. Clean it very well, sand the edges you want to bond, flux well and use moderate heat. When the flux starts to turn color its burning off.

Don't let the flux drip or run down a polished kettle. It leaves a mark.

 

[BargainFittings]

Needed to beef up my kettle drain hole so I soldered a stainless washer TO the kettle. Worked like a champ.

 

[doug1395]

im in the process of making a electric brew pot with a pid controller.My plan was to buy a stainless steal nuts and take it to a weld shop and have it welded for the heating element and the thermocouple. Would this silver solder work for me?Could I drill a hole a hole a little biger than the the diameter of the threads and braise the inside and outside of the tank. Then thread the heating element and thermocouple well into the nuts . I want to be able to replace the element if it ever goes bad?? Right? Thanks for the help!

 

[CodeRage]

im in the process of making a electric brew pot with a pid controller.My plan was to buy a stainless steal nuts and take it to a weld shop and have it welded for the heating element and the thermocouple. Would this silver solder work for me?Could I drill a hole a hole a little biger than the the diameter of the threads and braise the inside and outside of the tank. Then thread the heating element and thermocouple well into the nuts . I want to be able to replace the element if it ever goes bad?? Right? Thanks for the help!

a stainless 1" Npt female couple may be a better option than the nut. That way you can solder it through the wall. You won't get 100% metal to metal contact with a nut.

 

[wilserbrewer]

im in the process of making a electric brew pot with a pid controller.My plan was to buy a stainless steal nuts and take it to a weld shop and have it welded for the heating element and the thermocouple. Would this silver solder work for me?Could I drill a hole a hole a little biger than the the diameter of the threads and braise the inside and outside of the tank. Then thread the heating element and thermocouple well into the nuts . I want to be able to replace the element if it ever goes bad?? Right? Thanks for the help!

You could likely solder a fitting for an electric element. Bargain fittings sells the stainless nuts and gaskets to install an element w/out welding. I would think that is a pretty good "weldless" method.

 

[doug1395]

ok thanks alot

 

[GreenMonti]

How well would the Mapp gas work with the silver solder?

MAAP gas will work very well. Silver solder should melt at about 400*. Silver braze melts at about 1100*.

MAAP runs at about 5300*
ACETYLENE runs at about 5500*
PROPANE runs at abour 4500*

MAAP and ACETYLENE are very close. I have heard that MAAP will go away once it runs out. They aren't going to make it any more. Any truth to this? Seems like it has been rumored for a while.

Gonna have to start running PROPYLENE for fuel I guess.

 

[ScubaSteve]

This is awesome! I've sweated copper with decent results, but I think I overheated the joint because I got discoloration, charring, etc.

I assume SS is the same as copper; you're indirectly heating the joint and just lightly touching solder to the point you want to join, right? Swagman, how would you use an iron (clothes iron, right?) to do this...just turn the steam off, crank it on high, and maintain contact with the fitting?

 

[wyzazz]

This is awesome! I've sweated copper with decent results, but I think I overheated the joint because I got discoloration, charring, etc.

I assume SS is the same as copper; you're indirectly heating the joint and just lightly touching solder to the point you want to join, right? Swagman, how would you use an iron (clothes iron, right?) to do this...just turn the steam off, crank it on high, and maintain contact with the fitting?

Ummm, I think he meant a soldering iron?

 

[Hang Glider]

150W soldering iron...

 

[ScubaSteve]

Stupid question, I know ....that's why I had to ask.....but we DO use a lot of things for unintended purposes in homebrewing.

 

[BrewBeemer]

150W soldering iron...

That toy's 10 times underpowered to melt any solder with the mass of a coupling plus the surface area of a keg pulling the heat away too fast for a properly melted solder temp that's needed. Harsh yes sorry. I used a Weller 325 watt as a demo vs that 150 watt posted above with a friend while laughing before the lack of results and the failed test became final. I went to O/A with a 000 tip, a soft flame with successful results but you must move rather fast or overheat. This would require starting over recleaning to a bright finish again before starting over again. With the natural gas torch and compressed air a lot lower temp plus better heat control worked best. This torch is made to run off NG and compressed.

 

[Grimster]

So I bought a hole saw just a bit too big for mounting my element in my SS kettle. So I took the nut from bargainfittings with me to Home Depot today and bought the right sized one. Got home and....

PUT THE WRONG ONE IN MY BIT and drilled the hole too big ANYWAY!

So I really had not choice but trying the soldering. I soldered it up, and...

HAD A LEAK (not unexpected) redid that edge of the nut.

NO LEAKS!

YAY thank you for this thread

 

[BargainFittings]

So I bought a hole saw just a bit too big for mounting my element in my SS kettle. So I took the nut from bargainfittings with me to Home Depot today and bought the right sized one. Got home and....

PUT THE WRONG ONE IN MY BIT and drilled the hole too big ANYWAY!

So I really had not choice but trying the soldering. I soldered it up, and...

HAD A LEAK (not unexpected) redid that edge of the nut.

NO LEAKS!

YAY thank you for this thread

Glad you could save the install. Can you post some pictures?

 

[Grimster]

Glad you could save the install. Can you post some pictures?

Haha my soldering is really nasty and I haven't cleaned it up, but I can try and get some when I'm home tonight, just no jokes about how horribly nasty it looks, it does seem to work nasty looking or not!