That is all that is important. It works. You can always hide it with insulation.
Wayne what size was that coupler that you soldered into the pot?
Haha my soldering is really nasty and I haven't cleaned it up, but I can try and get some when I'm home tonight, just no jokes about how horribly nasty it looks, it does seem to work nasty looking or not!
Looks like there is product out there.
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=5
They carry the solder and the flux.
Just to be sure... That stuff is food safe, right?
I have something for restoring old auto parts called Muggy Weld, that looks to operate the exact same way. I would be leery of using it if it had any dangerous components.
Just to be sure... That stuff is food safe, right?
I have something for restoring old auto parts called Muggy Weld, that looks to operate the exact same way. I would be leery of using it if it had any dangerous components.
So maybe I'm missing something but why don't more people do this for keggle builds? I realize it dosen't have the strength of a TIG weld but is it really that much of a draw back. I figure I can do this myself and save the money and headache of having someone weld keggle valves for me.
I was hesitant about replying to this thread ,but i have something that might help.
I know you`ve seen the thread on "The Tool"
Well I don`t have machine shop capabilities at home so...
I took a 1/2in. coupling and on a bench grinder sharpened it to a point.
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A 1in. coupling I cleaned the threads out and kind of rounded off with a dremmel tool. A piece of 5/8 all thread and a couple flat washers and made this.
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I drilled a 7/8 hole in the keg ,put the tapered coupling inside ,the 1in. coupling on the outside and (after coating everything with 3 in 1 oil pulled the coupling through the hole.
Then switched out for the new coupling and pulled it through the hole.
I ended up with this. should be real easy to solder.
of course i clean every thing with denatured alcohol.
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Disclaimer : The 1in. coupling was galvanized,and the keg was a test piece ,I will find a stainless 1in. coupling before i do the final.
Nice handy work! That will likely solder up real nice and strong. Looks to me like you solved the "tool" mystery. Thanks for not keeping it a secret...that was lame huh?
Very nice. I am going to use that method my next go around. That looks fantastic. I brazed my fittings in. If I would have had gap like that, my welds would have been much better.
I have an idea. Tell me if you think this makes any sense:
What if you did that in reverse? Pull the pointed coupling through from the outside. Then when you solder the fitting, you create a bit of a bowl for the solder to sit in. It might serve two purposes.
1. It might make the final solder/weld look nicer. Nowhere for the solder to spread out to.
2. For those worried about sanitary issues from the gap. It would put the smooth cone shape on the inside of the kettle. Making it easier to clean and might hold less debris.
I don't really care much for the sanitary issue. It will boil out anyway. But if you plan to polish your kegs or just like nice looking work. The puddle would look good sitting in that indented bowl.
Anyway. Nice work. That looks awesome!
That is what I was thinking. So if you were brazing it, would you do it from the outside as well? I used silver brazing rod on my fittings. I would probably go that route again.
GreenMonti
I think you may be my arch nemesis,is that the right word LOL
I`ve been certified for 30+years and never once thought of doin it at home
till i started brewing now i want to weld and get a lathe in the basement ,this sux.
i should be retiring.
If unsure contact the manufacturer for that information.