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Soldering Stainless steel

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Haha my soldering is really nasty and I haven't cleaned it up, but I can try and get some when I'm home tonight, just no jokes about how horribly nasty it looks, it does seem to work nasty looking or not!

We'll you can make fun of my first try if anyone does make fun of it.
 
I agree, for my first attempt, I soldered 6 fittings on my HLT. Took about 4 hours but they got progressively better as I went along.

Any consensus on what is the best flux to use? I had two types a small bottle that worked best ran out after 3 joints. I used some myriatic acid and the other flux to finish up but did not work as well.
 
Just to be sure... That stuff is food safe, right?

I have something for restoring old auto parts called Muggy Weld, that looks to operate the exact same way. I would be leery of using it if it had any dangerous components.

I had a half dozen different fluxes, solders, and flux core solders in my tool chest, only 1 solder and the first flux I looked at were drinking water safe! So read the labels it should say!

Too bad it was my BIGGEST solder, had to heat up the nut pretty hot to get it to work. All my thinner solders were cored and NOT safe.

So yeah pay close attention we don't want no one getting sick! or worse.
 
Just to be sure... That stuff is food safe, right?

I have something for restoring old auto parts called Muggy Weld, that looks to operate the exact same way. I would be leery of using it if it had any dangerous components.

If unsure contact the manufacturer for that information.
 
Wayne,

Did you have to turn the coupler on a lathe in order to make it fit into your hole or do you have an step bit that was able to do it? The largest my step bit goes is 1/2" (i think), but the coupler is actually a little bigger.
 
what do you guys mean when you talking about " coupler " are you talking about a compression fitting ??? or just a threaded 1/2 in. pipe
 
I guess its technically a 'coupling' but this is what we are referring to....

ss-20coupling_10474091.jpg
 
The correct terminology is coupling. Coupler is used a lot though and is understood.

I have a step bit that goes up to 1 1/8" so I just drilled out to fit the coupling.
 
I was hesitant about replying to this thread ,but i have something that might help.
I know you`ve seen the thread on "The Tool"

Well I don`t have machine shop capabilities at home so...
I took a 1/2in. coupling and on a bench grinder sharpened it to a point.
coupling2.JPG


A 1in. coupling I cleaned the threads out and kind of rounded off with a dremmel tool. A piece of 5/8 all thread and a couple flat washers and made this.

swage.JPG


I drilled a 7/8 hole in the keg ,put the tapered coupling inside ,the 1in. coupling on the outside and (after coating everything with 3 in 1 oil pulled the coupling through the hole.
Then switched out for the new coupling and pulled it through the hole.

I ended up with this. should be real easy to solder.
of course i clean every thing with denatured alcohol.

pulled.JPG


Disclaimer : The 1in. coupling was galvanized,and the keg was a test piece ,I will find a stainless 1in. coupling before i do the final.
 
Nice handy work! That will likely solder up real nice and strong. Looks to me like you solved the "tool" mystery. Thanks for not keeping it a secret...that was lame huh?
 
So maybe I'm missing something but why don't more people do this for keggle builds? I realize it dosen't have the strength of a TIG weld but is it really that much of a draw back. I figure I can do this myself and save the money and headache of having someone weld keggle valves for me.
 
I didn`t clean the fittings for this run , but i`m quite impressed the fit is so tight you cannot move it and it`s perfectly square.
 
So maybe I'm missing something but why don't more people do this for keggle builds? I realize it dosen't have the strength of a TIG weld but is it really that much of a draw back. I figure I can do this myself and save the money and headache of having someone weld keggle valves for me.

I do plan on welding mine, just after seeing it , i thought it could be soldered easily .
 
Very nice. I am going to use that method my next go around. That looks fantastic. I brazed my fittings in. If I would have had gap like that, my welds would have been much better.

I have an idea. Tell me if you think this makes any sense:

What if you did that in reverse? Pull the pointed coupling through from the outside. Then when you solder the fitting, you create a bit of a bowl for the solder to sit in. It might serve two purposes.

1. It might make the final solder/weld look nicer. Nowhere for the solder to spread out to.

2. For those worried about sanitary issues from the gap. It would put the smooth cone shape on the inside of the kettle. Making it easier to clean and might hold less debris.

I don't really care much for the sanitary issue. It will boil out anyway. But if you plan to polish your kegs or just like nice looking work. The puddle would look good sitting in that indented bowl.

Anyway. Nice work. That looks awesome!
 
did I say I love BACON!!!!

um try it and tell us!!!
I just thought of this a couple hour ago!

sorry I`ve been drinking.
 
I was hesitant about replying to this thread ,but i have something that might help.
I know you`ve seen the thread on "The Tool"

Well I don`t have machine shop capabilities at home so...
I took a 1/2in. coupling and on a bench grinder sharpened it to a point.
coupling2.JPG


A 1in. coupling I cleaned the threads out and kind of rounded off with a dremmel tool. A piece of 5/8 all thread and a couple flat washers and made this.

swage.JPG


I drilled a 7/8 hole in the keg ,put the tapered coupling inside ,the 1in. coupling on the outside and (after coating everything with 3 in 1 oil pulled the coupling through the hole.
Then switched out for the new coupling and pulled it through the hole.

I ended up with this. should be real easy to solder.
of course i clean every thing with denatured alcohol.

pulled.JPG


Disclaimer : The 1in. coupling was galvanized,and the keg was a test piece ,I will find a stainless 1in. coupling before i do the final.

Very nice work!!. Well done. The only issue I have with your work is the use of 3 in 1 oil and the outer coupler used as the receiver. The halo carbons will contaminate the surface just as bad as carbon steel. My suggestion is to clean the surface very well with acetone before you do the final fitting of the coupler intended for use. I like acetone cause it is more robust in cleaning power then denatured alcohol. Also, prep the area prior to pulling the coupler through and your all good to go for the weld or solder.

As to the fit.....Now you see why I do it.:D Again nice work.:mug:
 
Nice handy work! That will likely solder up real nice and strong. Looks to me like you solved the "tool" mystery. Thanks for not keeping it a secret...that was lame huh?

I read other threads too. You don't have to be rude where you don't think it wont be noticed.

I made the thread too try and help others out. I just haven't given up "my" way of doing it. I did try and help and it quickly got lost, by people thinking I am not being part of the crowd. That's fine.

What's the saying.....Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, but teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Something like that right?



Edit: Sorry, I know this is off topic. But I have been waiting for this to come out about me on this subject.

I apologize to Bargainfittings for messing up the topic.
 
Very nice. I am going to use that method my next go around. That looks fantastic. I brazed my fittings in. If I would have had gap like that, my welds would have been much better.

I have an idea. Tell me if you think this makes any sense:

What if you did that in reverse? Pull the pointed coupling through from the outside. Then when you solder the fitting, you create a bit of a bowl for the solder to sit in. It might serve two purposes.

1. It might make the final solder/weld look nicer. Nowhere for the solder to spread out to.

2. For those worried about sanitary issues from the gap. It would put the smooth cone shape on the inside of the kettle. Making it easier to clean and might hold less debris.

I don't really care much for the sanitary issue. It will boil out anyway. But if you plan to polish your kegs or just like nice looking work. The puddle would look good sitting in that indented bowl.

Anyway. Nice work. That looks awesome!

Yes, you can pull the coupling through the outside to the inside. No problem. If it was done this way I would weld it on the inside, but I would still solder it from the outside. With the soldering of couplers I don't think there is much issue with sanitary. The solder wicks into the inside of the joint sealing it off.
 
That is what I was thinking. So if you were brazing it, would you do it from the outside as well? I used silver brazing rod on my fittings. I would probably go that route again.
 
GreenMonti
I think you may be my arch nemesis,is that the right word LOL
I`ve been certified for 30+years and never once thought of doin it at home
till i started brewing now i want to weld and get a lathe in the basement ,this sux.
i should be retiring.
 
That is what I was thinking. So if you were brazing it, would you do it from the outside as well? I used silver brazing rod on my fittings. I would probably go that route again.


Now, I am not a braze expert but, yes I would do the work from the outside. "IF" I wanted the silver braze to make its way in, to seal off any little cracks, I would apply some heat to the coupler on the inside to melt the braze and make if flow inward. I hope that makes sense.
 
GreenMonti
I think you may be my arch nemesis,is that the right word LOL
I`ve been certified for 30+years and never once thought of doin it at home
till i started brewing now i want to weld and get a lathe in the basement ,this sux.
i should be retiring.


:DThat's funny. I have mucked this thread up enough. PM sent.
 
I soldered a nipple to my new keggle today! it went pretty good my reamer did not like the SS cleaned everything up used stay clean for the flux and normal plumbing solder. finished up and cleaned the area filled with water and it had a pin hole leak so i took my pin torch, and re liquefied the solder with more flux and it doesnt leak and actually looks decent i will try and post pics tommorrow.
 
You guys rock. I love that tool and unfortunately, I think I shall be trying it out too, but I will probably pull to the inside and fill the gap on the outside. Looks like a much stronger joint that simply sticking the coupler in a hole.

Now are there any concerns with aluminum? My kettle is a turkey fryer.
 
If unsure contact the manufacturer for that information.

I contacted Muggy Weld and his reply said that the stuff I have contains Cadmium, so don't use it. He asked about the materials and application, so I might hear back if they have any products suitable.

No matter, as silver solder would be fine if I have to buy more stuff. The nice thing about the stuff I have is that it can solder aluminum and Zinc Die Cast. Not sure what will work with a turkey fryer.
 
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