Simplifying brewing

[Zoltan]

I still consider myself a novice brewer, but I've made 9 batches, now, all IPA's. Each batch gets better, and the last few have been excellent. Lately, I've simplified things greatly yet the beer continues to improve, and I find myself wondering if the things I've eliminated are more in the category of tradition.

1. I use all malt extract--no grains.
2. I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.
3. I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).
4. No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.
5. I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).
6. I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.
7. For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar.

I'm not trying to be a troll, but am interested in your comments.

 

[doug293cz]

I don't see any real compromises with your simplifications. If you ever move to partial or all-grain brewing, you will need to use a hydrometer to be able to monitor your mash & lauter processes. With extract, it is almost impossible to miss your target OG if your extract amounts and volumes are as planned - not so with malted grain.

Dry hopping is only really necessary if you are looking for hop flavor and aroma beyond what you get from your boil additions.

Most brewers now do not use "secondary" fermenters unless they are doing something like adding fruit, etc.

Time while chilled will clear beers quite effectively without the use of fining agents.

Brew on

 

[dbsmith]

If it makes you happy and it tastes good, brew on. For me, there is just something magical about taking actual grain and turning it into beer, rather than using condensed wort. But if you don't care about that, then just keep on brewing how you like and enjoy the shorter brew time!

 

[RyPA]

1. I use all malt extract--no grains.
   1. I started brewing in 2016 using extract. I quit relatively quickly because my beers all tasted like crap as I was brewing IPA's and the oxidation was killing them, it was unbeknownst to me what the issue was. I've read that you can make excellent beers with extract so no problem with sticking to extract. As @dbsmith said, I like using grain, and began buying it in bulk so I am ready to brew any time I want. I decided to start brewing again in 2021 and made the switch to all grain. Taking advice from these forums I learned to avoid o2 contact post-fermentation and this was a game changer for my IPA's/NEIPA's.
2. I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.
   1. I throw hops into the boil commando. My thought process is loose pellets will get better efficiency than hops confined in a bag.
3. I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).
   1. No comment
4. No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.
   1. You have patience. I am looking to wrap up brew day in a succession of steps, so after the whirlpool I want to cool, pitch, and get fermentation going & finish cleanup. No issue with your process, and some will even leave their kettle to rest overnight to cool before pitching.
5. I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).
   1. You don't care about ABV? I recommend picking up a iSpindel so you can easily determine when fermentation is complete.
6. I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.
   1. I technically don't even rack to a primary. My wort goes straight to a keg and I ferment there. Once fermentation is done, I dry hop (if needed) and put it in the kegerator to chill+carb and serve shortly after.
7. For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar
   1. I highly recommend kegging.

 

[Bramling Cross]

RyPA’s remark about kegging is worth repeating. It’s the single most effective way to simplify your brewing process.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

[...] Lately, I've simplified things greatly yet the beer continues to improve, and I find myself wondering if the things I've eliminated are more in the category of tradition.

Some items could be considered home brewing tradition.

Some are specific to brewing with extract. (aside: I brew both "extract" and "BIAB" 2.5 gallon batches).

Others appear to move the work outside the brew brew.

[*]I use all malt extract--no grains.

Nothing wrong with "outsourcing" the mashing process. Professional brewers generally outsource the malting process to simplify their brewing process. And craft maltsters often outsource growing barley.

The "fear" of stale LME appears to have been solved a couple of years ago. And couple of on-line stores are shipping style specific LME ("Nut Brown", "American Red", "Porter") that are different from "amber" and "traditional dark".

[*]I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.

Saves time on brew day (in exchange for cleaning the bags later).

[*]I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).

Those who get clear beer when using these ingredients will likely keep using those ingredients (some call it 'cheap insurance'). Personally, over the last year, I'm seeing that adding Brewtan-B to my extract batches helps clarify the beer more than Irish Moss.

[*]No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.

Large amounts of "top-up" water, used to chill the wort, is both a time saver and speicific to brewing with with extract.

For many people, 2.5 gal of wort is likely the upper limit for what can be chilled in a kitchen sink.

The "Austrialian no chill" technique may save the most time when chilling wort. The trade-off is the need to buy specific containers for chilling. aside: there is also a "(too?) short and (too?) shoddy" no chill - just cover the kettle and walk away for a day.

[*]I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).

Malt extracts, proper yeast handling, and time can be used to avoid an equipment purchase.

As was mentioned earlier, assuming all the extract was added to all the water, one will "hit" that number "exactly". A hydrometer can be one way to verify this assumption.

While dry yeast strains "don't have a schedule" for finishing fermentation, one can build a schedule around their typical behavior. A hydrometer can be one way to confirm this assumption.

And SG measurements during fermentation make it possible to add hops during the end of fermentation to get specific desirable flavors.

[*]I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.

For others, dry hopping creates specific desirable flavors (that can't be created in other steps).

[*]For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar.

(no comment)

 

[kevin58]

You are making beer that you enjoy and you enjoy the process of making it. I would say keep up the good work.

 

[kylewag]

The absolute beauty of home brewing is....You do you! Nobody else's opinion of your beer matters. I looked at someone who posted about brewing a jalapeno strawberry Kolsch and was grossed out at first but then thought, this is EXACTLY why we home brew. I did the same things that you posted above for years, decades even. I stopped using a hydrometer for years until I got over-carbonated bottles one batch (at the time I only fermented for 2 weeks and without temperature control so it's possible that the yeast got too cold and went dormant during the fermentation process and didn't reach FG). Now I use one (and a refractometer) to make sure that fermentation is complete and to make sure that I hit my pre-calculated gravity numbers, especially FG. I also measure OG for wort when mashing or using steeping grains. I do use a lot of different yeast strains though and brew numerous styles of beer and I'm curious about the yeast attenuation, hence the need for FG measurements. If I used the same yeast every time in the same style of beer with 100% extract, I probably wouldn't care as much. If you ever branch out to brewing other styles you might consider steeping grains, that will open many doors. Also, I dry hopped for the first time in 25+ years as a brewer this year. It's not hard at all and I loved the flavor and aroma that it imparted but if you are happy with just boil additions, why bother. BTW - I found that DME is much easier to deal with than LME (I had scorching issues even when turning off the burner and stirring) and I can make a beer as light colored as I want with DME. I have one that was less than 2 SRM!

 

[MaxStout]

Nothing wrong with sticking with extract beers if they work out for you and you enjoy them. Extract brews have won awards, and even an AHA medal a year or two ago. All-grain does give you more choices, but you can still do a lot with all-extract (and obviously you have).

 

[ncbrewer]

I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).

I've had a few quirky fermentations that took much longer than they should have - and I bottle condition. If I hadn't taken gravity samples to be sure fermentation was complete, I'm sure there would have been bottle bombs. I recommend checking to be sure gravity is stable before bottling.

 

[skunkape]

The brewing itself is never an issue for me. I enjoy it, but it's only half the work of brew day. The part I would like to cut down on is the prep and setup and sterilizing and cleanup. Kegging has helped with that on the back end but it makes it less portable. Sometimes it's nice to brew extract and skip the whole mash thing. It just kinda feels oddly like cheating or something, but the beer is just as good.

 

[Zoltan]

Thanks for the feedback here. Kegging does seem like a time-saver, both in bottling and dealing with empties, but I drink at most one bottle every other day.

 

[MaxStout]

The brewing itself is never an issue for me. I enjoy it, but it's only half the work of brew day. The part I would like to cut down on is the prep and setup and sterilizing and cleanup. Kegging has helped with that on the back end but it makes it less portable. Sometimes it's nice to brew extract and skip the whole mash thing. It just kinda feels oddly like cheating or something, but the beer is just as good.

Yep, long brew days here. The "brew" in brew day is maybe 3-3.5 hours from heating strike water to buttoning up the fermenter. It's the prep of gear before, then cleaning and putting away after. It makes for a 6 hour day altogether. Can't complain, though. I still enjoy the whole process.

Then a few weeks later, a couple hours bottling. Again, an hour of actually bottling, but getting the gear out, then cleaning after.

 

[RyPA]

Thanks for the feedback here. Kegging does seem like a time-saver, both in bottling and dealing with empties, but I drink at most one bottle every other day.

1. You don't need to worry about having bottles on hand.
2. No need to deal with priming sugar.
3. Investing in a keg once allows you to re-use it for eternity.
4. You can always pour yourself a brew, as little as just a sip or up to 5-6 gallons.
5. You can ferment & serve from a single vessel.
6. They allow for fermenting under pressure, which allows you to 'cheat' with yeasts that like colder temps that you cannot provide.
7. Options for dispensing - for example, the Intertap faucet has an adapter/tip for pouring stouts to give it a nice foamy head. They also have adapters for other things.

 

[MrClint]

I like what the original poster was dishing out, most importantly that simplifying things and focusing on your own preferences has a lot merit. Sure, I prefer DME and all grain (BIAB) over LME, but it is a minor nit.

That said, as a small batch brewer I will push back a little bit on kegging. My favorite beers, primarily from Sierra Nevada, are bottle conditioned. I bottle condition and get great tasting well carb'd beer with nice lacing on the glass. Bottle conditioning forces you to be patient. There is something that just feels right about popping open a bottle of beer at the end of the day. For me it is worth whatever effort and time it requires. Likewise for me, it is not worth the added effort/expense/gear of kegging. It's OK to brew small, simple batches and it's OK to bottle condition and it's OK to keg. It was said earlier, you do you.

 

[user 341102]

Most of these make sense to me, I’d definitely check gravity and use all grain, tough. I regularly do all the others on this list. For all grain, I skip weighing grain. I have repeatedly found that 1lb of malt is approximately 3 cups for base malts which make up the vast majority of the grain bill.

Kegging simplifies the brew day itself, but there’s plenty of maintenance work with cleaning lines and taps that should be considered. If someone like the OP is only enjoying a beer every other day, there could be more time spent in maintenance

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Extract brews have won awards, and even an AHA medal a year or two ago.

In 2021, the AHA homebrewer of the year (link to HBT topic) also received a gold medal for an American Lager that was brewed with extract. There are links to additional gold medal recipes (including two from 2023) on the 2nd page of the topic.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Most of these make sense to me, I’d definitely check gravity and use all grain, tough. I regularly do all the others on this list. For all grain, I skip weighing grain. I have repeatedly found that 1lb of malt is approximately 3 cups for base malts which make up the vast majority of the grain bill.

Kegging simplifies the brew day itself, but there’s plenty of maintenance work with cleaning lines and taps that should be considered. If someone like the OP is only enjoying a beer every other day, there could be more time spent in maintenance

Kegging doesn’t necessarily mean that you can’t condition your beer. I inject the priming sugar into my keg after a closed transfer. I let it sit in the closet for a few weeks while it carbonates. Now, I will move it to the utility room which hovers in the 40-50° range. It will sit there a few weeks while I am working on the kegs in the cooler.

Cheers! 🍻

 

[Airborneguy]

What you perceive as good beer is all that matters in the end because taste is subjective, but these shortcuts aren't necessarily only cutting out useless "tradition".

And I really mean it when I say taste is subjective. I'm not a competition brewer any longer. Many will tell you taste is subjective while really paying lip service to the statement because they believe that style guidelines and judges are the benchmark good beer. Individual taste buds are the only true determining factor. Especially when most competitions end up combining categories... but that's another argument lol...

Anyway, my point is that the same applies to thinking, "I don't do any of that stuff and my beer is great!" Great to you. There are procedures and practices that turn out superior beer. It isn't all just tradition.

Just be honest with yourself. I'm my own worst critic. No judge can critique me harder than I critique myself.

 

[youngdh]

I like what the original poster was dishing out, most importantly that simplifying things and focusing on your own preferences has a lot merit. Sure, I prefer DME and all grain (BIAB) over LME, but it is a minor nit.

That said, as a small batch brewer I will push back a little bit on kegging. My favorite beers, primarily from Sierra Nevada, are bottle conditioned. I bottle condition and get great tasting well carb'd beer with nice lacing on the glass. Bottle conditioning forces you to be patient. There is something that just feels right about popping open a bottle of beer at the end of the day. For me it is worth whatever effort and time it requires. Likewise for me, it is not worth the added effort/expense/gear of kegging. It's OK to brew small, simple batches and it's OK to bottle condition and it's OK to keg. It was said earlier, you do you.

You can also natural condition in the keg too. You can also hold back some beer from the keg or brew a little extra for bottling. While kegging has an initial upfront cost, boy does it save time not having to clean, sanitize, fill and cap bottles. This is the beauty of homebrewing, you do you based on what you enjoy and your budget allows .

 

[beren]

Yep, long brew days here. The "brew" in brew day is maybe 3-3.5 hours from heating strike water to buttoning up the fermenter. It's the prep of gear before, then cleaning and putting away after. It makes for a 6 hour day altogether. Can't complain, though. I still enjoy the whole process.

Then a few weeks later, a couple hours bottling. Again, an hour of actually bottling, but getting the gear out, then cleaning after.

What gear prep is needed other than a quick spray down of the fermenter? Isn’t it prepped when you put it away?

 

[Dancy]

RyPA’s remark about kegging is worth repeating. It’s the single most effective way to simplify your brewing process.

I think this is true depending…. If you’re a high volume brewer, entertain, etc., sure. I brew for myself, 5 gallon batches, and do not share much so bottling is fine — I have a process in place and it’s only 50 bottles. Some of us have limited space so that’s a factor. Mini kegs would maybe be nice but I am on a tight budget and kegs are expensive and overkill for a guy like me. Also, like my Belgians in a bottle 😉

 

[user 341102]

I think this is true depending…. If you’re a high volume brewer, entertain, etc., sure. I brew for myself, 5 gallon batches, and do not share much so bottling is fine — I have a process in place and it’s only 50 bottles. Some of us have limited space so that’s a factor. Mini kegs would maybe be nice but I am on a tight budget and kegs are expensive and overkill for a guy like me. Also, like my Belgians in a bottle 😉

I only got into kegging when I got some unexpected income from being in a research study. Probably never would have taken the plunge. Although I like having a keezer, still not sure I'd do it again without the extra income.

Another keezer bonus: lagering in the keg. No conditioning a cold-aged beer at room temp for carbonation

 

[beren]

I only got into kegging when I got some unexpected income from being in a research study. Probably never would have taken the plunge. Although I like having a keezer, still not sure I'd do it again without the extra income.

Another keezer bonus: lagering in the keg. No conditioning a cold-aged beer at room temp for carbonation

If you wait and keep checking Craigslist and fb marketplace you can get some good deals but you might have to drive an hour or 2. I got a really nice edge star kegerator that can hold 3 cornies, a co2 tank and 2 regulators for like $200.

 

[Bobby_M]

I still consider myself a novice brewer, but I've made 9 batches, now, all IPA's. Each batch gets better, and the last few have been excellent. Lately, I've simplified things greatly yet the beer continues to improve, and I find myself wondering if the things I've eliminated are more in the category of tradition.

It's not clear what the question is exactly but I think it's important to decide what you want out of the hobby and compare all your results against that goal. Everyone does this for different reasons so their expectations might be completely different than yours.

1. I use all malt extract--no grains.

Sure. The flavor options are relatively limited by doing this but it may not matter to you. IPA is apparently your thing and malt complexity isn't the biggest part of that style. I much prefer dry malt extract to liquid just because it's more reliably fresh.

1. I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.

It's debatable but there tends to be less oil extraction if the hops get compacted in a bag. It's easy enough to rack or pour relatively clear wort into the fermenter and leave the hop sludge behind. That's more simple than cleaning bags.

1. I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).

Whirlfloc is a small incremental batch cost only. Nothing complicated about it.

1. No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.

No problem at all when brewing extracts.

1. I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).

No problem.

1. I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.

Generally racking to secondary would cause some oxygen damage, which would affect hoppy beers the most anyway.

1. For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar.

I'm not trying to be a troll, but am interested in your comments.

 

[MrClint]

It's not clear what the question is exactly

I don't think every post requires a question or a specific solution to a nonexistent problem. Live your best life, my brother.

 

[passedpawn]

I still consider myself a novice brewer, but I've made 9 batches, now, all IPA's. Each batch gets better, and the last few have been excellent. Lately, I've simplified things greatly yet the beer continues to improve, and I find myself wondering if the things I've eliminated are more in the category of tradition.

1. I use all malt extract--no grains.
2. I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.
3. I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).
4. No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.
5. I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).
6. I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.
7. For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar.

I'm not trying to be a troll, but am interested in your comments.

You might go on forever satisfied with all above. However, many brewers (me) look to broaden their experiments in this hobby, and that includes changes to your list above.

• Brew beer styles that require grains for malt complexities.
• Brew IPAs with bold hop aroma right out of the package - requires dry hopping, or at least large late hop additions to the boil.
• Brew consistent beers from batch to batch. Metrics, such as hydrometer measurements, are necessary.
• Brew crystal clear beers (without months of settling time). Finings are hugely important here. IPAs might not benefit as much as pilsners etc. It's fine that you don't care, but some people do (me).
• Brewing larger batches (can't put a sanke keg in the sink to chill LOL).

Table sugar is fine for priming, secondary fermentors are not necessary at all unless you've got gobs of fruit in there. You'll get better hop utilization out of loose hops instead of the mesh bags, but by increasing amt you'll get same result. Chilling quickly vs slowly - not sure. 30 minutes isn't terrible, so I'm guessing that is fine.

 

[Yesfan]

I still consider myself a novice brewer, but I've made 9 batches, now, all IPA's. Each batch gets better, and the last few have been excellent. Lately, I've simplified things greatly yet the beer continues to improve, and I find myself wondering if the things I've eliminated are more in the category of tradition.

1. I use all malt extract--no grains.
2. I put the hops in a couple of mesh bags while boiling, then remove them, so there is almost nothing in the trub except yeast.
3. I don't use whirlfloc or isinglass. The beer is clear anyway (not that I personally care much).
4. No wort chiller. I put the boiling pot in a sink with ice water, but it may take 30 minutes to cool down. I pour into the fermenting bucket and add water to 5 gallons and may leave it to cool more to the yeast-pitching temperature.
5. I don't fool with a hydrometer. After three weeks in the fermenter it's done (high initial gravity, so three weeks instead of two).
6. I no longer rack to a second fermenter, and don't dry hop. The beer is hoppy and aromatic anyway.
7. For priming, I use the table sugar we always have on hand rather than buying corn sugar.

I'm not trying to be a troll, but am interested in your comments.

For #4, if you're doing partial boils and topping up your fermenter, you could always chill your top up water. One YouTuber, Elementary Brewing, takes 2-3 gallons of distilled water chilled to 40F to help chill his wert faster and get his fermenter topped off. I thought that was a pretty clever way to speed up the chilling process.

I have to agree with the pro kegging comments. The only con is the upfront cost, but it is well worth it. I think I've only bottled two 5 gallon batches in the 10+ years of brewing. Bottling one five gallon can vs fifty 12 oz bottles? No brainer for me.

 

[RyPA]

For #4, if you're doing partial boils and topping up your fermenter, you could always chill your top up water. One YouTuber, Elementary Brewing, takes 2-3 gallons of distilled water chilled to 40F to help chill his wert faster and get his fermenter topped off. I thought that was a pretty clever way to speed up the chilling process.

I have to agree with the pro kegging comments. The only con is the upfront cost, but it is well worth it. I think I've only bottled two 5 gallon batches in the 10+ years of brewing. Bottling one five gallon can vs fifty 12 oz bottles? No brainer for me.

I can't imagine bottling a full 5 gallon batch. The only time I've bottled was back in 2009 with a Mr. Beer kit, that was annoying with just a gallon of beer. I went to Mr. Beer's site and they have come along way with recipe options, and they also now have a 5-gallon kit (this may be old news).

The amount of simplicity, time savings, cost (you wouldn't have to buy bottles), and drinking convenience makes kegging well worth it.

 

[Airborneguy]

When I bottle I mostly use 22oz bottles. I’ve been occasionally buying $2.99 Guinness Extra Stout 22’s to beef up my stash.

 

[Andrew7447]

I quit beering afew times,
Once when i kept burning LME and didnt really know. I moved on to bulk AG cause im cheap.
Bottling and everything about it made me hate it. Bought a used keg and legit never bottled ever again.
And I love IPA's but i kept getting off flavors. I finally figured out it was oxidation. I am now a crazy zero 02 brewer. Pressure ferment and pressure trans into a keg that has been co2 purged during the whole fermentation period.

 

[passedpawn]

I can't imaging bottling a full 5 gallon batch.

It's not a big deal really. I've been kegging for years, but I also bottled for years.

 

[day_trippr]

I boxed myself into a corner in 2004 and had to bottle 40 gallons of beer on what turned into the hottest day of the year.
In May, ffs!
400+ bottles. Scarred me for life 😭

I ordered my first set of kegs and dispensing equipment that night and never bottled a batch again...

Cheers!

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Oh no, you don't... I've been doing this for years and started like most all of us have. Worried if yeast will do the only job they were put on this earth to do, take too many gravity readings, transfer a hundred times, sanitize the entire house as if we're going to take custody of E.T..

All of these trials takes batch after batch to learn and formulate shortcuts. You can't have them on the finger without putting in the work.

(tone of voice and cadence does not translate well in text. I'm not being a Richard, I mostly talk in jest)

 

[RyPA]

...
And I love IPA's but i kept getting off flavors. I finally figured out it was oxidation. I am now a crazy zero 02 brewer. Pressure ferment and pressure trans into a keg that has been co2 purged during the whole fermentation period.

Same, zero o2 practices is a game changer, especially with IPA's. Had I not discovered/learned this, I would have gave up beering, again.

 

[OleBrewing]

bottling is not terrible, but get a bench top bottler. my dad found a bench top from the 50s i cleaned up and used to bottle the 130 gallons of cider in my profile picture.

of course i have moved to kegging. the up front expense and space is the hurdle. but i have left a kicked keg for a year under a blanket of co2 and everything just rinsed out.

 

[mac_1103]

bottling is not terrible, but get a bench top bottler.

bunch of swing-top bottles.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

The only time I've bottled was back in 2009 with a Mr. Beer kit, that was annoying with just a gallon of beer.

It's possible that approaches for packaging beer in bottles have changed since 2009.

---

And, to balance the relentless repetition of replies that readily recite

"Bottling bad, kegging good":​

consider Dumbest things you have done while kegging

#2: "There are many threads about this."​

​

#4: And the ever-popular "Don't do that" thread.​

​

---

I have nothing against kegging or people who keg. OTOH,

simplifications in home brewing often come when people talk about ways to simplify (or otherwise improve the process) rather than the (often shallow) "ford vs chevy", "apple vs microsoft", etc 'debate'.

 

[bike2brew]

The only problem I have with bottling is my consumption lags behind production so storage can be an issue. I have a 5 gallon batch ready for the bottle next week so need to find some friends to help out.

 

[beren]

Well stop on over!