Thanks,
No, in order to use a tankless heater like that, you have to completely gut it, there are so many safety features built in that you could never get 170° strike and sparge water out of it.
For strike water, I fill the MT to my desired volume, then recirculate through the heat exchanger to get to my strike temp. This way, I don't have to run it WOT (imagine a flame shooting out of the chimney). For sparge water, I run it WOT in order to even get by at 0.5 gal / minute at 170°.
A 110v tankless heater would never be be able to produce water at much more than a trickle, you really need >5000W to heat water at an appreciable speed.
Where did you get the console from?
If you want to get an answer, you should probably specify the person's name you are asking the question.
I have been looking for a control panel like the one you show in the photo, where did you find it?
I designed and built the panel using parts from automationdirect.com. I have a parts list, schematic and layout diagram if you're interested. I sent an autocad output file to a machine shop that used CNC machine. The CNC takes the autocad file and cuts out the holes and engraves the labels right on the chasis I sent them.
I'm fairly certain he built it, but he's only made two posts since joining in October.
You could look at Kal's write-up in the electric brewing section for a good, detailed plan for an awesome control panel.
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Just received kettles from conical-fermenter.com. Its a 2 bbl HERMS, all electric, with 5500 watt heatsticks. Haven't finished adapting everything to tri-clamp, but its close to functional.
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Budzu said:Just received kettles from conical-fermenter.com. Its a 2 bbl HERMS, all electric, with 5500 watt heatsticks. Haven't finished adapting everything to tri-clamp, but its close to functional.