Show me your 10 gallon batch set ups!!!

[alexipas]

I currently make double batches by mashing in a cooler, and then batch sparging.
I have a 15gallon electric spike kettle with false bottom and pump

I want to have a recirculating mash. Give me ideas!
I can biab (and I might) but that's a lot of heavy messy grain. I could recirculate through my cooler? Through an additional spare kettle? I have multiple extra elements and plugs and space in my PID so I feel like I could make a rims set up of sorts... I'm worried about dry firing
Float switch?

orrrr looking for motivation
Thanks!

 

[Broken Crow]

From the scope of your considerations, I'll guess you're in the early-planning stage but have read all the 'worse-case' scenarios associated with each option. Let me provide some food for thought:
Dry-firing: The 2 most common ways this occurs; The first and most common is the case where the user has followed instructions online, building or buying gear that whose fuction they don't actually comprehend, but hey; "It worked for the guy on youtube!" The second most common that happens (though rarely) is the experienced and knowledgable user who simply had a brain-fart causing a lapse in attention and you can read their embarassing recounts in the 'Don't do that' thread.
I'd think a RIMS is a good option, but so many people either screw that up or set up sub-optimal systems by not researching enough and following the simple science of it: Vertical Tube! Heat rises and despite the flow, it'll get hotter in horizontal tube and likely cause greater 'correctional' cycling of the element. The temp probe goes at the top, ideally in between the top of the element and the RIMS tube outlet. You don't need a 5000W element because you'll never run it at full power BUT: lower powered elements are shorter and have less surface area to dissipate the power...there's no problem under-powering a larger element. Always get the greatest surface area available and try and stick with the 1.5" and not the 2" tubes to keep better heat-exchange time. The controller choice is very important too...I saw in you're earlier posts you have an Auber DSPR320; Look at your mOUT parameter..no other controller has that and a properly set up DSPR320 practically guarantees no scorching. Flow must be controlled at the input, so you put the valve on the output of the pump before the RIMS and never after.
Just some food for thought.

 

[alexipas]

From the scope of your considerations, I'll guess you're in the early-planning stage but have read all the 'worse-case' scenarios associated with each option. Let me provide some food for thought:
Dry-firing: The 2 most common ways this occurs; The first and most common is the case where the user has followed instructions online, building or buying gear that whose fuction they don't actually comprehend, but hey; "It worked for the guy on youtube!" The second most common that happens (though rarely) is the experienced and knowledgable user who simply had a brain-fart causing a lapse in attention and you can read their embarassing recounts in the 'Don't do that' thread.
I'd think a RIMS is a good option, but so many people either screw that up or set up sub-optimal systems by not researching enough and following the simple science of it: Vertical Tube! Heat rises and despite the flow, it'll get hotter in horizontal tube and likely cause greater 'correctional' cycling of the lement. The temp probe goes at the top, ideally in between the top of the element and the RIMS tube outlet. You don't need a 5000W element because you'll never run it at full power BUT: lower powered elements are shorter and have less surface area to dissipate the power...there's no problem under-powering a larger element. Always get the greatest surface area available and try and stick with the 1.5" and not the 2" tubes to keep better heat-exchange time. The controller choice is very important too...I saw in you're earlier posts you have an Auber DSPR320; Look at your mOUT parameter..no other controller has that and a properly set up DSPR320 practically guarantees no scorcing. Flow must be controlled at the input, so you put the valve on the output of the pump before the RIMS and never after.
Just some food for thought.

Wow you just blew my mind. I think you nailed it with your first thought. I read the pros and cons but I saw many YouTube videos and believe I can do that. I am absolutely in the planning stage. I also think I've under estimated steps and equipment. I thought it could be as simple as pumping wort from my mash tun into my kettle to reheat it and then pump it back on top the mash tun opening my pump 1/2 way.
Reading your post It sounds like I should have an actual rims tube with proper probe placement.
Dry firing my element is my main concern. I have a brewzilla (not a fan hence my upgrading) and I had constant stuck mashes and dry fired often.

You said with my controller that I have the mOUT parameters.
Embarrassing so... I don't know how to use my controller. I simply set the temperature to 212 and turn it off when my boil is complete. I don't ever use the mash setting.

Would you have any insight to a guide that could teach me how to set mine up and the mOUT parameters? I've read some guides and I found them a little over my head.
Thanks for your detailed reply!

 

[Broken Crow]

I thought it could be as simple as pumping wort from my mash tun into my kettle to reheat it and then pump it back on top the mash tun opening my pump 1/2 way.

Some folk do just that, but it likely makes the LODO crowd cringe

Would you have any insight to a guide that could teach me how to set mine up and the mOUT parameters? I've read some guides and I found them a little over my head.

Our resident guru @Bobby_M graced us with just that:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/understanding-the-auber-ezboil-dspr-320.699459/

 

[alexipas]

Some folk do just that, but it likely makes the LODO crowd cringe

Our resident guru @Bobby_M graced us with just that:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/understanding-the-auber-ezboil-dspr-320.699459/

Omg this is amazing!!!! Thank you! Say good bye to my Sunday afternoon, I'm diving deep into this one

 

[doug293cz]

I currently make double batches by mashing in a cooler, and then batch sparging.
I have a 15gallon electric spike kettle with false bottom and pump

I want to have a recirculating mash. Give me ideas!
I can biab (and I might) but that's a lot of heavy messy grain. I could recirculate through my cooler? Through an additional spare kettle? I have multiple extra elements and plugs and space in my PID so I feel like I could make a rims set up of sorts... I'm worried about dry firing
Float switch?

orrrr looking for motivation
Thanks!

Are you wanting to do step mashes? If not, what benefit do you expect to achieve by adding recirculation?

What do you mean by "space in my PID"?

A simple solution that can prevent most dry firing events is to interlock the element power enable contactor with the pump switch so that power cannot be applied to the element if the pump is not on. To avoid the less common case of pump on, but no liquid around the element, you can add a flow switch to the element contactor coil circuit. Most low cost flow switches are designed to operate at low voltage (for safety reasons) so you need to add a low voltage power supply to your control panel, and a low coil voltage relay to switch the 120V or 240V power to the element power enable contactor coil. (If this doesn't make sense to you, let me know and I will try to do a more thorough job of explaining.)

I don't know how to use my controller. I simply set the temperature to 212 and turn it off when my boil is complete. I don't ever use the mash setting.

This is definitely not the proper way to use the DSPR320 for boiling. You cannot control boil vigor with a temperature controller, as boil temperature is fixed by the liquid composition and atmospheric pressure. Changing the temp setting on the controller will not change your boil vigor. You might be lucky, and the combination you have of element power rating, actual incoming voltage level, and local atmospheric pressure (varies by elevation above sea level) are such that you get acceptable boil vigor, but this is not something that you should depend on. Boil vigor should be controlled by adjusting the power input to the element, The DSPRs are designed to do this - it's what the boil mode of the DSPR is specifically designed to do. You should always use the boil mode for boiling.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

This is definitely not the proper way to use the DSPR320 for boiling. You cannot control boil vigor with a temperature controller, as boil temperature is fixed by the liquid composition and atmospheric pressure. Changing the temp setting on the controller will not change your boil vigor. You might be lucky, and the combination you have of element power rating, actual incoming voltage level, and local atmospheric pressure (varies by elevation above sea level) are such that you get acceptable boil vigor, but this is not something that you should depend on. Boil vigor should be controlled by adjusting the power input to the element, The DSPRs are designed to do this - it's what the boil mode of the DSPR is specifically designed to do. You should always use the boil mode for boiling.

Right. That's what the power mode is for on the DSPR320. Instead of the mXXX where XXX is target temperature, you rotate the knob counterclockwise until it says BO then shows P as a power output percentage. He must be lucky that 100% power doesn't throw all the wort out of the kettle.

 

[Bobby_M]

I can biab (and I might) but that's a lot of heavy messy grain.

Eyebolt overhead and a locking hoist takes all that worry away.

 

[alexipas]

Are you wanting to do step mashes? If not, what benefit do you expect to achieve by adding recirculation?

What do you mean by "space in my PID"?

A simple solution that can prevent most dry firing events is to interlock the element power enable contactor with the pump switch so that power cannot be applied to the element if the pump is not on. To avoid the less common case of pump on, but no liquid around the element, you can add a flow switch to the element contactor coil circuit. Most low cost flow switches are designed to operate at low voltage (for safety reasons) so you need to add a low voltage power supply to your control panel, and a low coil voltage relay to switch the 120V or 240V power to the element power enable contactor coil. (If this doesn't make sense to you, let me know and I will try to do a more thorough job of explaining.)


This is definitely not the proper way to use the DSPR320 for boiling. You cannot control boil vigor with a temperature controller, as boil temperature is fixed by the liquid composition and atmospheric pressure. Changing the temp setting on the controller will not change your boil vigor. You might be lucky, and the combination you have of element power rating, actual incoming voltage level, and local atmospheric pressure (varies by elevation above sea level) are such that you get acceptable boil vigor, but this is not something that you should depend on. Boil vigor should be controlled by adjusting the power input to the element, The DSPRs are designed to do this - it's what the boil mode of the DSPR is specifically designed to do. You should always use the boil mode for boiling.

Brew on

Wooow I can't believe I've made it this far! This is a game changer. I feel like I should just use my controller properly now and that might have a very dramatic impact on my brewing. I bought my controller second hand not really knowing at the time what it was or how it worked.

I want to complete step mashing. Basically I'm unsatisfied with my cooler mashing. I'm having issues regulating temperature and I'm unable to get the desired outcomes. I'm hoping that recirculating step mashing can take me to that next level of quality that I'm constantly looking for.

As for space in my PID, I meant I have two plug spots for elements and two spots for 120v accessories that might assist me with a rims set up. (Maybe all controllers have this?)

 

[alexipas]

Eyebolt overhead and a locking hoist takes all that worry away.

I'm assuming an Amazon special can handle this ? There one with a 150lbs capacity for 15$

 

[marc1]

I got mine from @wilserbrewer with my BIAB bag. I don't think his were particularly expensive.

 

[ZapperMike]

I have posted this pic on other threads but I use a RIMS system with a vertical element and a thermocouple inline before it goes into the mash tun. I also have a valve after the heater but only use it to throttle the HLT when I switch to sparge. I can hold temps within a half of a degree with my control. I also have a temp readout on the mash tun separate from my control to monitor my grain bed. It works for me.

 

[DuncB]

Not as shiny as some but a 2 vessel system, sparge heater out of view.

Heavily modded guten 70 litre unit, with SmartPid, three way tap allows recirculation and intercurrent whirlpool to mix the wort over the kettle temp sensor and mix the deadspace liquor.
Just added a second pump internally to run the extended CF chiller and return via whirlpool.
Extra temp sensor to check mash temperature which I later swap to monitor the CFC outflow temp.

A rather pitiful amount of hops from a 20 litre Tafelbier caught in the trub trapping ring.

 

[alexipas]

I have posted this pic on other threads but I use a RIMS system with a vertical element and a thermocouple inline before it goes into the mash tun. I also have a valve after the heater but only use it to throttle the HLT when I switch to sparge. I can hold temps within a half of a degree with my control. I also have a temp readout on the mash tun separate from my control to monitor my grain bed. It works for me.thay

I have posted this pic on other threads but I use a RIMS system with a vertical element and a thermocouple inline before it goes into the mash tun. I also have a valve after the heater but only use it to throttle the HLT when I switch to sparge. I can hold temps within a half of a degree with my control. I also have a temp readout on the mash tun separate from my control to monitor my grain bed. It works for me.
View attachment 858877

That screen is super cool!!!

 

[ZapperMike]

That screen is super cool!!!

Thanks. I need to update the graphics to the system I have now. I used to have a gravity fed brew tree that looked like that. I can also view my Rapt Pills on another page or what I have on tap. It’s quite convenient.

 

[stamandster]

Hopefully this gives some insight into my setup. You can technically run it without the HLT and sparge with water direct from tap, but, the added points help

 

[kevin58]

The last time I made 10 gallon batches it was on this system...