Should I transfer everything?

[marchio-93]

Hello everyone from italy, sorry for my bad English! I have been fermenting a bitter with OG 1.036 for three days, I have used a cream yeast produced by a local laboratory, which everyone here says is very good.
Unfortunately, worried that it didn't do a good job, I used almost the whole bottle (let's say 4/5) on 22 liters of must, the bottle is designed for 50 liters. So the risks of overpitching I think are 2: diacetyl and autolysis.
The first one I think I can easily recognize on the nose, the second maybe it will annoy me later. I get to the point: for this crush I had set myself to NOT RACK, having a siphon, having seen some infections lately, and above all to understand what difference I could bring to the finished beer. In addition to the fateful talks on oxidation.

Obviously in the meantime of the fermentation I am in total existential crisis: should I siphon everything to eliminate dead yeasts that would give is autolysis? Are the yeasts actually dead or just asleep? I leave everything as it is?

 

[ESBrewer]

Don't worry about autolysis, it usually happens in the course of months or years but not that much in days or weeks. Diacetyl is produced by certain strains if the yeast health/nutrition is not so good or you rack the beer away from yeast too early. If you have enough active yeast in the fermenter, it tends to clean it up in a couple of days when the fermentation is over. You can do so called diacetyl rest - raise the temparature during the final days of fermentation to >20°C and let it sit on yeast for a couple of days. If you have underpitched or do not give the yeast enough time to do the work, you may end up with too much diacetyl in the final product. You don't need to rack to secondary. Definitely do not rack at three days if it tastes diacetylic. In general, pitching too small amount of yeast has more detrimental effects than pitching too much. Where do you get the yeast in bottles? Is it a liquid or dry yeast?

 

[marchio-93]

Where do you get the yeast in bottles? Is it a liquid or dry yeast?

In a bioenological laboratory, near where I live, it is in the form of a cream, so it is neither liquid nor dry. Everyone here says it works very well, it is very active, and it has a very short life (1 month) therefore should be consumed as soon as possible.

Should I do the diacetyl rest at the and of fermentation (18°--->19°--->20°) or after chilling? (18--->19--->20--->2--->20)

 

[ESBrewer]

At the end of fermentation. Optimally you should start it before the final gravity has been reached. I usually pitch at the low end of the yeast temperature range then let it rise slowly throughout the fermentation and let it stand a day or two post fermentation. The yeast can metabolize diacetyl even at 18°C but raising the temperature will speed up things and it may encourage the yeast to remain in solution and not to drop too early. You can cool down/cold crash when the yeast has done its job and metabolized diacetyl.

 

[marchio-93]

At the end of fermentation. Optimally you should start it before the final gravity has been reached. I usually pitch at the low end of the yeast temperature range then let it rise slowly throughout the fermentation and let it stand a day or two post fermentation. The yeast can metabolize diacetyl even at 18°C but raising the temperature will speed up things and it may encourage the yeast to remain in solution and not to drop too early. You can cool down/cold crash when the yeast has done its job and metabolized diacetyl.

Okay OG was 1.037, with a predicted FG of 1.010, Friday (5° day of Fermentation) was 1.008, yesterday was still 1.008. Can I cold crash or maybe is it better if I wait few days? A week seems to short but the yeast has finished his work!

 

[ESBrewer]

Even ale beers usually benefit from some additional conditioning in the fermenter at 10-20°C. Given that the beer is not exposed to oxygen. The exact conditioning time would depend on the recipe. But it is possible to cool down near freezing already because the fermentation itself is over. If you are in a hurry...

 

[marchio-93]

Even ale beers usually benefit from some additional conditioning in the fermenter at 10-20°C. It depends. But it is possible to cool down near freezing already because the fermentation itself is over. If you are in a hurry...

I'm not in a hurry at all so I think I will give other three days conditioning at 20°C