Rye IPA Recipe - thoughts?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Argentum

Active Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
39
Reaction score
1
Location
Alexandria
I'm trying to make a reddish rye IPA. I'd like to use some willamette hops. They don't have a high alpha so here's what I came up with. I'd appreciate any feedback from the folks on here.

3 gallons - which seems like a lot except my efficiency sucks, hovers around 60%:(. If I could get 75% I'd be happy to make this a 4 gallon batch.

9 lbs 2 row
1.5 lbs rye
8 oz Crystal 20
8 oz melanoidin
4 oz Crystal 40
2 oz rye (roasted)

.5 oz Amarillo 60 min
.5 oz centennial 60 min
.5 oz Simcoe 15 min
.5 oz Amarillo 10 min
.5 oz Willamette 5 min

.5 oz Simcoe flameout
.5 oz centennial flameout

Dry hop willamette, and maybe a second variety.

Mash w/16-18 quarts at 152. No mash out.

Yeast: Safale 05 at 64 degrees.


Thoughts?
 
That's about 12% rye. If you're unsure of how much to use, that's not a bad place to start but I like mine right around 20% or so. That makes the rye flavor apparent without making it overbearing or too strong and it stands up nicely to the hops.

What is your projected OG and the IBUs? That's important, for the balance of the beer with the rye flavor, the OG, and the SG/IBU ratio.
 
That's about 12% rye. If you're unsure of how much to use, that's not a bad place to start but I like mine right around 20% or so. That makes the rye flavor apparent without making it overbearing or too strong and it stands up nicely to the hops.

What is your projected OG and the IBUs? That's important, for the balance of the beer with the rye flavor, the OG, and the SG/IBU ratio.

1.083 and 61 IBUs. I know that's a bit low, esp for the style (at that OG it's more of an imperial IPA) I think it's in range, if barely.
 
1.083 and 61 IBUs. I know that's a bit low, esp for the style (at that OG it's more of an imperial IPA) I think it's in range, if barely.

For a red IPA, I"d go with a higher IBU level. I look at the SG/IBU ratio, and yours is .735. For a red IPA, I'd like to see it a bit higher but it's not that big of a deal. I'd like .850 or so, and I'd increase the rye a bit.

But still, that's pretty good and I'm sure it will be a good beer.
 
I'm trying to make a reddish rye IPA. I'd like to use some willamette hops. They don't have a high alpha so here's what I came up with. I'd appreciate any feedback from the folks on here.

3 gallons - which seems like a lot except my efficiency sucks, hovers around 60%:(. If I could get 75% I'd be happy to make this a 4 gallon batch.

9 lbs 2 row
1.5 lbs rye
8 oz Crystal 20
8 oz melanoidin
4 oz Crystal 40
2 oz rye (roasted)

.5 oz Amarillo 60 min
.5 oz centennial 60 min
.5 oz Simcoe 15 min
.5 oz Amarillo 10 min
.5 oz Willamette 5 min

.5 oz Simcoe flameout
.5 oz centennial flameout

Dry hop willamette, and maybe a second variety.

Mash w/16-18 quarts at 152. No mash out.

Yeast: Safale 05 at 64 degrees.


Thoughts?

Efficiency is directly related to the milling of the grain. If you have your own mill, tighten it up. If you are depending on the LHBS to mill your grain, think hard about getting a mill for yourself, then buy grain in bulk. The difference in the cost of the bulk grain will pay for the mill and the increased efficiency you can get will help too.
 
Efficiency can also be relate to how you're mashing.

How are you mashing?
 
Efficiency can also be relate to how you're mashing.

How are you mashing?

That's always been my understanding. I'd still be considered a beginner/amateur, but here's what I'd call it: Recirculating infusion mash. I use a calculator to determine the strike temperature. I tend to use a higher water to grain ratio because I use a "zapap" mash tun (fermenting bucket with holes nested in a bottling bucket), which creates a lot of dead space. It also loses heat quickly. This is why I recirculate - I'll drain some wort, heat it, and add it back to the mash when the temp drops. To try to ameliorate heat loss I've wrapped the bottling bucket in an insulating bubble wrap.
 
If you're not careful, when reheating you can denature the enzymes for conversion, which could lead to your poor efficiency.
 
Honestly? Easiest way around it is to get a round cooler and convert it. For smaller batches a 5 gallon would work well. It'll hold temperatures much better and if you use a stainless braid filter it can be done very cheaply.
 
Back
Top