RIMS for Dummies

[bfinleyui]

What is the preferred and recommended way of returning the wort to the mash after heating? I have a round ten gallon cooler, and am probably a ways off from keggles. ($$$)

 

[lud]

I bent a piece of pipe to deliver back to the tun. Inside the tun I had a piece of silicone tubing to deliver wort on to of the mash, but not so it delivered directly down.

 

[bfinleyui]

I bent a piece of pipe to deliver back to the tun. Inside the tun I had a piece of silicone tubing to deliver wort on to of the mash, but not so it delivered directly down.

You don't run into channeling at all?

 

[thekraken]

You don't run into channeling at all?

I haven't finished my build yet but I plan on recirculating like Kal does: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/mash-lauter-tun?page=3

Doesn't get much simpler.

 

[bfinleyui]

I haven't finished my build yet but I plan on recirculating like Kal does: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/mash-lauter-tun?page=3

Doesn't get much simpler.

I'm convinced! Thanks for the link!

Now to just figure out what controller to use. Totally being productive at work today.

 

[lud]

I haven't finished my build yet but I plan on recirculating like Kal does: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/mash-lauter-tun?page=3

Doesn't get much simpler.

That's what I do.

 

[bfinleyui]

I am building my tube this weekend, and found a really cool part on ebay that I thought I'd share.

It's a k-type thermocouple (they also have RTD if you prefer), with the probe being about 2 inches long, and mounted in a 1/2" NPT housing. That means you could likely get away with a shorter tube if you wanted to, and have less dead liquid sitting in the pipe.

It also has a detachable connector right at the end of housing. It uses a collar tightening method, not dissimilar to the way a faucet attaches to a shank. Quite looking forward to using this. I feel a little better about this method of disconnect versus a disconnect at the control box, so I can store the cable with the box, rather than having a cable hanging off the tube itself.

It's 304 stainless, so food safe and all that. It was 18 bucks shipped from china. I ordered on the 30th, and it arrived yesterday, so definitely pretty quick shipping, cheaper than the auber probs with the same pipe threads, and most importantly, it just looks freaking sweet. Super industrial and hefty.

 

[theck]

I am trying to read through the whole thread now but wondering what the consensus is on placement and position. I've seen people going vertical... horizontal... above the tun...below the tun.... I'm thinking I might put mine horizontally above the tun to allow it to gravity drain easier when I turn the pump off?

 

[thekraken]

I made mine so that it would swivel so that I can rock air bubbles out, and also rock water out when draining. As for hight in relation to the MLT, I don't know, mine is about half way up the side of the MLT because it's convenient.

 

[theck]

I made mine so that it would swivel so that I can rock air bubbles out, and also rock water out when draining. As for hight in relation to the MLT, I don't know, mine is about half way up the side of the MLT because it's convenient.

Nice idea thanks. Do you have a tri clamp on the element side? I was thinking about doing that but in the end I could have just purchased Bobby's rims setup ha...

 

[thekraken]

No, it's all NPT fittings. I was just too anxious to build one of these things and Bobby's rims tube wasn't in the budget, this was about $80 cheaper. I did use Bobby's bare element enclosure though, took a little rigging to get it grounded properly.

 

[theck]

I was wondering if it was worth it to get a NPT 1.5" to 1.5" tri... https://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html so I can then connect bobby's tri clover enclosure to that for easy removal of the element? I've seen most guys get a good while out of theirs before they have to disassemble it by using PBW in it after brewing but it would be nice to be able to inspect it after each brew. Just not sure I want to sink more cash into it, got it pretty cheap as it is...

 

[thekraken]

That plus this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc3.htm
You're looking at $65 + shipping, the price of convenience. For the time being I'll do it the hard way, depending on how much of a PITA that is I may decide to work that into the budget down the road. I know that for many people that it's definitely worth it.

 

[theck]

That plus this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc3.htm
You're looking at $65 + shipping, the price of convenience. For the time being I'll do it the hard way, depending on how much of a PITA that is I may decide to work that into the budget down the road. I know that for many people that it's definitely worth it.

Ya I think I'll just stick with what I have. I have a box enclosure cord, etc, already so think I'll run that for a while and get the process down before I do any upgrades. In the end I'll probably just snag Bobby's tube but that will be a while.

 

[theck]

Anyone know where I put my ground at?

 

[P-J]

Anyone know where I put my ground at?

A better description or link to the diagram you are trying to use would help a lot in any effort to help you.

Just saying... Wishing you great success in you plan.

P-J

 

[theck]

I don't have the element yet but do have the tube, wire, and box ready... The previous owner grounded to the inside of the box, but he was using it on a pot. Not sure if it would be the same for a rims. I saw people running it to the tube itself.

View attachment 1423174212219.jpg

 

[thekraken]

You want to make sure that everything metal is connected to ground. Also you need to make sure you get a good seal and everything is water tight.
<EDIT> DELETED A BUNCH OF STUFF - I am an amateur and in no way qualified to give electrical advice. </EDIT>
Definitely check for continuity between your ground wire (at the other end of the power cord) to all metal parts on the tube with your multimeter.

 

[theck]

You want to make sure that everything metal is connected to ground. Also you need to make sure you get a good seal and everything is water tight. I would try first connecting my ground wire to the box on that green ground screw, then assemble like this: rims tube -> electrical box -> sealing o-ring -> heating element. IF that gets you a water tight seal the grounded box should ground the rest of the tube. Definitely check for continuity between your ground wire (at the other end of the power cord) to all metal parts on the tube with your multimeter.

The assembly I mentioned above wasn't water tight for me so I did rims tube -> o-ring -> electrical box -> o-ring -> heating element. I then took a bit of left over 12awg wire and secured an electrical connection between the already grounded electrical box and the NPT fitting externally.

OK thanks makes sense now. That was my next question, where so I place the o ring. I'm using bobby's enclosure and the solder flange on my pot and know that's how it works there and I've checked out builds on pots but not a whole lot on rims. Did you use the same o ring size inside and out, what 1" id? Just in case I need to go that route.

 

[thekraken]

Dang, you saw my post before I could edit it. Know that I am an amateur and in no way qualified to give electrical advice.

I did need two 1" silicon o-rings, 1" to fit over the element threads.

 

[theck]

Dang, you saw my post before I could edit it. Know that I am an amateur and in no way qualified to give electrical advice.

I did need two 1" silicon o-rings, 1" to fit over the element threads.

Ha. I saw it. I hopefully plan to try and show everything I come up with to my wife's uncle who is. He is just an hour and half away so I want to get it all worked up and hopefully right before I take it over.

 

[Hacky2447]

Is there a pre-built already wired RIMS system?

I know nothing about electrical and cannot solder to save my life.

I am looking at the wiring diagram and Im just like what are the symbols?

 

[thekraken]

There are plenty of prebuilt RIMS tubes, check Blichmann, brewhardare.com, brewershardware.com.

As far as prebuilt systems go, there are prebuilt control panels like the ones at theelectricbrewery.com, and ebrewsupply.com but they are very expensive compared to DIY. I don't know that either of those solutions are as 'complete' as you'r looking for. (I think you'd still need to wire up your tube.)

FWIW I put together my rims system with zero soldering. The rims tube is pipe fittings so those screw together, and all the wiring uses crimped connections.

What wiring diagram are you looking at? Look for PJ's diagrams, they tend to use graphics of actual components rather than symbols, and they are color coded making them very easy to follow.

(edit) A whole bunch of PJ's diagrams: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-pj-electrical-diagrams-382286/

 

[Hacky2447]

Anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUY388M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[theck]

Think your better off at that price point going with bobby's tri clamp rims (brewhardware.com) for $130ish and adding an element and wire.

 

[Hacky2447]

Think your better off at that price point going with bobby's tri clamp rims (brewhardware.com) for $130ish and adding an element and wire.

Yeah I am thinking about doing this. I just need to find a decent price on a pump, and temp control. The less wiring I have to do the better. LOL

Should have this setup in about 6 months or so.

 

[misled_drummer]

This is an older picture but here is my setup. My rims tube is mounted in the middle of the brewstand, and my control panel is in a toolbox. Works great but I'm thinking of getting a better enclosure for the control panel.

 

[stlbeer]

Anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUY388M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Wow, that's almost exactly what I built.

 

[theck]

Wow, that's almost exactly what I built.

[/URL]

What's the connection at the bottom? Just curious.

 

[misled_drummer]

What's the connection at the bottom? Just curious.

Dump valve most likely.