RIMS for Dummies

[briord1]

Did you get everything set up and working? Curious about the heatsink being mounted on the outside of the panel.

I did get everything hooked up and ran a test with water. Just gotta get a recipe together and pick a day! I will post some photos when I can.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[exe]

What is the consensus for capping the heating element side of the RIMS tube? I have seen PVC suggested, but is that the best option? If PVC, what is the best way to affix the cap to the tube? This is the last portion of my build before I am able to fire the RIMS tube up.

I've tried to find in this thread the answer to the question, but had no luck on the search. thanks in advance for the help.

 

[briord1]

What is the consensus for capping the heating element side of the RIMS tube? I have seen PVC suggested, but is that the best option? If PVC, what is the best way to affix the cap to the tube? This is the last portion of my build before I am able to fire the RIMS tube up.



I've tried to find in this thread the answer to the question, but had no luck on the search. thanks in advance for the help.

I used a fabricated SS water tight unit sold by Brew and Grow in Chicago. It wasn't cheap (about $70) but it's very nice and has a tri-clover fitting for attaching to the RIMS tube. I have seen them a few other places as well. Worth the $ in my opinion. It's pretty much plug an play. Also check out the tri-clover RIMS tube. I bought that too ($99). Also a very nice piece. Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[rgauthier20420]

You could always go to brewhardare.com and get the no tri clover weldess version at the bottom of the page. It's only $24.

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

 

[exe]

You could always go to brewhardare.com and get the no tri clover weldess version at the bottom of the page. It's only $24.

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

Thanks - I just ordered the $24 piece you mentioned, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Sometimes coming up with the right google keywords to search is a challenge

 

[rgauthier20420]

Thanks - I just ordered the $24 piece you mentioned, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Sometimes coming up with the right google keywords to search is a challenge

Glad to be of help! If I knew that was there when I put my enclosure together I would have done the same thing. Ohwell....enjoy

 

[misled_drummer]

You could always go to brewhardare.com and get the no tri clover weldess version at the bottom of the page. It's only $24.

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

Pretty cool enclosure. Mine just has a PVC cap with JB Weld.

 

[misled_drummer]

PVC Cap picture:

BTW, I don't think I ever responded to this a few pages back. I managed to figure out the wiring of the RTD and installed the PVC cap.

I have successfully brewed at least 5 times since putting everything together. I want to thank all of you guys for all your help. Could not have done it without you.

 

[rgauthier20420]

I wanted to post my adaption of my rims tube for y'all to see. It's the usual design using 1.5" pipe, 2 tees, and bushings that reduce down to .5" for the wort connections. I changed the connections for the thermometer and the element to tri clamp for ease of cleaning and the ability to move the thermometer to my plate chiller when done. Comments are welcome.

 

[Fractional]

well after spending the last 5 days reading all 1299 posts. i'm sold on rims. just ordered the stout tank tube. ( glacier was out of 3 of the parts) this also will allow me to upgrade my brew system in the future, with out having to worry if the rims will handle the bigger volume.. now to try and hide the cc bill from SWMBO

i do have one question.. how well would the little solar pumps work on this?

 

[rgauthier20420]

well after spending the last 5 days reading all 1299 posts. i'm sold on rims. just ordered the stout tank tube. ( glacier was out of 3 of the parts) this also will allow me to upgrade my brew system in the future, with out having to worry if the rims will handle the bigger volume.. now to try and hide the cc bill from SWMBO

i do have one question.. how well would the little solar pumps work on this?

I use this pump while circulating 100% of the time and it works like a charm. I keep it on full blast and I have a Tee and 2 90 degree elbows at the end of the return line back into the MT to slow down flow. It works great.

 

[Fractional]

rgauthier Perfect thanks! just about to order my pid, ssr and probe.

 

[tanaroek]

is it possible for you to post a video ? to see better picture of how the assembly works out

 

[rgauthier20420]

is it possible for you to post a video ? to see better picture of how the assembly works out

The RIMS tube with the pump? I'm brewing on this Saturday, so if your request is to me, I should be able to do that this weekend.

 

[kmllr315]

I am beginning to put together my own RIMS build and I had a question about the best way to prevent rust on the heating element base. I've seen some recommend food-grade silicone on the base. How thick should this be? Will the element burn this material? What about silver solder?

 

[berrywise]

I am beginning to put together my own RIMS build and I had a question about the best way to prevent rust on the heating element base. I've seen some recommend food-grade silicone on the base. How thick should this be? Will the element burn this material? What about silver solder?

A light coating is all you need and I believe silicone melts at like 500+ degrees so no issues there.

 

[pickles]

You just need a thin coat on the base. Don't get it on the element and it won't be an issue.

 

[kmllr315]

Cool, would you suggest taping off the elements near the base to prevent silicone from getting on them? Or do you just eyeball it?

 

[Hauger]

I've been reading the 131 pages of this thread over the last 6 months on and off with great enthusiasm. Having said that, its quite possible my questions have been answered already and I just missed the posts.

I'm starting to build my RIMS system now, just in the process of converting a keg to a keggle mash tun. I'm planning on using a 120v element (ULWD if I can find one). I have two questions.

1. Whats the magic flow rate to use the RIMS to have a relatively fast mashout with a 120v element without risking scortching the wort? Generally I don't brew heavier than normal beers, but am planning on brewing 10 Gal batches so there's going to be a fair amount of wort to mash out.

2. After mash out, when transferring the wort to the boil kettle, it would seem to me there would be some valuable wort left in the RIMS tube and associated plumbing. I was planning to use the same pump to transfer and power the RIMS by using a 3 way ball valve. Is there an easy way to plumb in a way to recover that wort or do most people just write it off as waste? I know that relatively its not much lost, but it offends my sense of efficiency!

 

[gregkabob]

Oh Noooo.... Don't write off that wort. I put a T fitting on the end with the heater element and out of the bottom of the Tee I put a ball valve to drain the wort when needed. (top is wort in, left is connected to the rims, right is the heating element, bottom is ball valve) I find that when I first start it up some of the particles from the mash collect in the tee and I drain a bit off and return to the mash.

 

[ChuckO]

I run my sparge water through the RIMS tube and pump the MLT output directly into the boil kettle. That way the RIMS tube has only water in it when finished, and is partially cleaned out.

Make a ULWD element by using a 5500 watt 240 volt ULWD element at 120 volts, you get 1375 watts with an almost negligible watt density. Requires a longer RIMS tube, but so what?

 

[Hauger]

I run my sparge water through the RIMS tube and pump the MLT output directly into the boil kettle. That way the RIMS tube has only water in it when finished, and is partially cleaned out.

Make a ULWD element by using a 5500 watt 240 volt ULWD element at 120 volts, you get 1375 watts with an almost negligible watt density. Requires a longer RIMS tube, but so what?

Running the sparge water through the RIMS is genius, thanks for the idea!

 

[kmllr315]

I am working on my pid control box. Should I go with a ground fault or a regular outlet to the pump and heater? The control box itself should be plugged into a ground fault anyway most of the time. I was thinking that in those rare instances I take the unit somewhere and a ground fault plug isn't available... Is there a way to protect the pid/ssr internally as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Anything electric needs to be on a gfic. All the time not just mostly. The point of gfic is not to protect your electronics but to stand between you and a really bad day.

I see you are a married guy and somehow your post ended up being #1313. Too much for me to just sit back and read. So I am just sayin.... And maybe you know and I misread, which happens.

I got a gfic adapter off amazon for real cheap. Basically plugs into the wall and then you plug your control box into that. Just search gfic. Brand I got was yellow jacket I think.

While I am at it. Just want to add that gfci is not the same as a surge protector/power strip. I think I've read a few posts that seem to replace one for the other. You want gfci protection.

Ok. I am done.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[kmllr315]

I guess what I'm really asking is, is there a problem with having two ground fault outlets in the same circuit? Say I plug my pid control box into one and then have my outgoing power through another...


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[pickles]

Having two GFCIs in series isn't needed, but also won't affect the protection factor either. You're good to go with one or fifty GFCIs.

 

[Hunky]

So I found a 18" long piece of 2" copper for $2, and since I'm a cheap bastar*, (can you cuss on this forum?) thought I would make my own tri-clover parts (excepting the clamp) from the guys over at Home Distiller.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=27056 and for totally steampunk: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=36740

 

[thekraken]

I'm pricing out the materials for this project, have been able to find all the stainless on amazon:

Stainless Steel 304/304L Pipe Fitting, Nipple, Schedule 40 Welded, 1-1/2" X 6" NPT Male http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJNGY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Tee, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKXIC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Male X 1/2" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZD0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Male X 1" NPT Female http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZDU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Cross, Class 150, 1-1/2" NPT Female (1 of these instead of one tee fitting) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKXPU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

So far for just these parts the total is coming out to just $55.80, cheaper than I would have thought! The last item, the cross fitting, clearly has CHINA stamped on it. Should I be worried about lead or anything else?

 

[thekraken]

So a lot of posts here advocate the triclover setup for ease of disassembly and cleaning. I'v spoken with another brewer who simply recirculates PBW to clean in place after each brew with periodic disassembly for scrubbing, he hasn't noticed any build up or nasties to speak of.

I'm curious, does anyone else here just do CIP or do you feel disassembly is necessary after each use?

 

[orangehero]

It's not necessary but it makes the disassembly so easy that you can do it very quickly after every use.