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RIMS for Dummies

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I am trying to figure out how to mount my rims tube so it is easily detachable. I am going to utilize cam locks to pull the element out for cleaning, just curious what hardware y'all are using to easily pull the tube off the stand.

Thanks,
-Glenn
 
I am trying to figure out how to mount my rims tube so it is easily detachable. I am going to utilize cam locks to pull the element out for cleaning, just curious what hardware y'all are using to easily pull the tube off the stand.

Thanks,
-Glenn

I use Bungie cords, the ones with the little ball on the end, easy peasy

20130302_170750.jpg
 
I have mine mounted vertically, with one of these under each arm of the T. They easily unclip. Got mine from Grainger, but that was just because I could pick it up locally. CADDY Superklip from Erico


t007_r02480_v1.jpg
 
I have mine mounted vertically, with one of these under each arm of the T. They easily unclip. Got mine from Grainger, but that was just because I could pick it up locally. CADDY Superklip from Erico


t007_r02480_v1.jpg

Fantastic this is exactly what I have been looking for.

Thanks,
-G
 
I am looking to interlock my element with my pump. I am thinking that I use the other side of the switch and use a normally open block and hook up the SSR output from the PID so that the SSR will not turn on without the pump on therefore keeping the element off when the pump isn't in the on position. Does this make sense?

Thanks,
-G
 
...and boom goes the dynamite! You hit the nail on the head and you should be step mashing in no time.



Why not put a receptacle on one side of the toolbox? Then cut the tab in the middle of the receptacles two outlets and have each outlet of the receptacle be on its own circuit. Then just put a plug on the end of your RIMS element and have both a pump and RIMS with plugs. Wire the first RIMS element outlet to an SSR that is in parallel with a second SSR that is powering the pump outlet. That way you can just plug your RIMS element and pump into each outlet and not ruin the pump's nice cord.

That'll allow you more flexibility in the future with your pump and also allow you to unplug and neatly wrap up your RIMS when not in use and have it stored out of sight.

I finally have some time to assemble this thing! Seems like such a long time since I last posted here.

So when you say cut the tab on the receptacle, are you talking about the gold plated metal part running down both sides of the receptacle in this picture?

null_zpscaf3901c.jpg
 
I finally have some time to assemble this thing! Seems like such a long time since I last posted here.

So when you say cut the tab on the receptacle, are you talking about the gold plated metal part running down both sides of the receptacle in this picture?

I think you're looking at the wrong part. Please send a side view of the receptacle so I can circle what I'm talking about in MS paint or other crude fashion. Make sure you take a picture of the hot side or the side with gold screws on the left in your picture. You want to break the "bridge" between the two screw terminals on the hot side (gold screws). You do not need to break the bridge on the neutral side because it's a common line. If you're having trouble visualizing what I'm talking about check out the following video.

http://video.about.com/electrical/How-to-Wire-Split-Outlets.htm

Edit: In the video, the narrator is talking about making one half of the outlet switched, but that part doesn't really apply to you. In fact, technically you are making both halves switched, just by SSR and not a manual flip switch.
 
I think you're looking at the wrong part. Please send a side view of the receptacle so I can circle what I'm talking about in MS paint or other crude fashion. Make sure you take a picture of the hot side or the side with gold screws on the left in your picture. You want to break the "bridge" between the two screw terminals on the hot side (gold screws). You do not need to break the bridge on the neutral side because it's a common line. If you're having trouble visualizing what I'm talking about check out the following video.

http://video.about.com/electrical/How-to-Wire-Split-Outlets.htm

Edit: In the video, the narrator is talking about making one half of the outlet switched, but that part doesn't really apply to you. In fact, technically you are making both halves switched, just by SSR and not a manual flip switch.

Here's a picture. Thanks for the video.

null_zps0d46b936.jpg


Edit: Here's the inside. Looks like they are not connected.

null_zps2473c6f9.jpg
 
Exactly, usually there is a jumper that connects the two screws on the side that allows you to remove it and have the outlet switched separately. Get a different outlet that has that and you will be golden.

Damn I was hoping this wasn't the case. I bought the GFCI a few months ago, and I think I am out of the return date. Oh well.

Edit: I managed to get them to exchange the outlet for me. Thanks guys.
 
That's a GFCI outlet, I would toss it since you've opened it up and it's tripping reliability can't be guaranteed. The outlet that has the tabs to separate the top and bottom plugs are the normal $.69 outlets. On the gold screw side its obvious the tab they are talking about in between the two screws. Also when dealing with power and water, make absolute sure your power source is properly grounded and GFCI protected. If in doubt, as it seems may be the case, hire an electrician. The right one may even help for some beer, I know I have!
 
I've read a lot of this thread, but not all of it. So, if this question has been asked and answered, my apologies.

I'm confused about the placement of the temp sensor downstream from the heating element. If I'm reading the schematics correctly. The inlet is on the heating element end of the RIMS tube and the temp probe is on the return/outlet end of the RIMS tube, right? With the temp probe located directly downstream from the heating element, how do you get an accurate mash temp. It seems like the probe being directly inline with the just heated liquid would cause an error in the actual mash tun temperature.

I know a lot or brewers have great success with this design. I'm just fuzzy on how, lol.

Wrecked
 
Yes, the sensor needs to be downstream of the heating element. There are much smarter guys than me in this forum that have the explanation. (I read 'um too). I mounted my tube vertically with the heating element at the bottom so its always submerged. If not, it will melt down. Trust me, its not a pretty picture. The inlet from your MT comes in right above it and fills the tube. There is a difference in temp between what the controller says and what's in the tun, at least til the system stabilizes. Be sure to auto tune your controller in the temp range you mash at and the controller will learn how your system responds giving very accurate temps that maintain well after that. I'm learning by trial and error like you, but its definitely worth it. A well calibrated thermometer is your friend. I made the mistake of taking what the controller said at face value without verifying accuracy. Dumb mistake.
 
Thanks for the response Jay.

I don't doubt the effectiveness of a RIMS. I just couldn't wrap my head around the temp probe location and temp accuracy.

I guess I'll just have to finish my RIMS and find out for myself :)
 
I'm confused about the placement of the temp sensor downstream from the heating element.

I've gotten good results with the heating element downstream from the temp sensor, as documented in this thread.

The system diagram and test run results are shown below. I'm getting +/- 1F from set point, measured in the kettle; seems pretty good to me. For my system, I like having the heating element downstream because I can have the RIMS tube connected directly to the kettle in by BIAB setup, eliminating one hose.

Given the discussion this topic seems to bring, I plan to capture data from another test run after my next brew day when all my gear is out. I'll add a hose, and have the temp sensor downstream from the heating element. It will be interesting to see which approach yields the best performance in terms of temperature stability and responsiveness. Data-driven brewing! :rockin:

RIMS.jpg


RIMS test 3.jpg
 
I think you're looking at the wrong part. Please send a side view of the receptacle so I can circle what I'm talking about in MS paint or other crude fashion. Make sure you take a picture of the hot side or the side with gold screws on the left in your picture. You want to break the "bridge" between the two screw terminals on the hot side (gold screws). You do not need to break the bridge on the neutral side because it's a common line. If you're having trouble visualizing what I'm talking about check out the following video.

http://video.about.com/electrical/How-to-Wire-Split-Outlets.htm

Edit: In the video, the narrator is talking about making one half of the outlet switched, but that part doesn't really apply to you. In fact, technically you are making both halves switched, just by SSR and not a manual flip switch.

Finally got someone to help me wire this thing. It took longer than expected, but we wired it yesterday.

null_zpsaecf8a2c.jpg


I just had a few questions before I tested this thing.

1. Once I set the Sn setting on the PID (2352) to 21 (indicating that I am using an RTD probe according to the Electric Brewery) I got this error:

null_zpsdeea071f.jpg


I was not getting an accurate reading before changing the setting. The PID showed a temperature, but it never really changed much beyond plus or minus 72. I have the RTD hooked up to 3-5 on the PID (left side of the pic). According to Derrin, the sensor is on the white and black wires, hooked up to terminals 4 and 5 respectively. I wanted to check whether switching these wires will solve my problem before I mess with this guy's wiring.

null_zps5838a7c4.jpg


2. As far as grounding the water heater element, how should I go about doing this? I have the cord going into a PVC cap that I am going to JB weld onto the heater element. Should I just leave the ground wire hanging?

null_zps16d1cc29.jpg.html


3. Finally, According to the Electric Brewery, I should run the PID on auto in order to calibrate it with my system. Is there anything else I need to do to set this up?

Thanks so much for all your help guys. I'm almost there and excited to use this thing.
 
If I wanted to do stepped mashes? Wouldn't i need a beefier heating element to do temperature ramps quickly? What about wort scorch!!!!!! HELP IM BUYING STUFF THIS WEEKEND!!!
 
i've seen guys using heat tape wrapped around the RIMs tube. heat tape can be bought at plumbing supply stores they use them to wrap backflow preventors to keep them from freezing.

-=Jason=-
 
In my experience, if you use an ultra low density element and circulate the wort at decent rate then scorched wort is a low risk. How fast you can circulate has a lot to do with your MLT design (grain filter method, MLT geometry, etc).

The ramp time will depends on the power of your element and circulation rate, but also on your batch size and the how much heat your system looses. Insulating the MLT and RIMs will definitely help. Insulating the hoses might also be beneficial.

I have not tried to optimize my system for step mashing, so I can't speak to the best design. But I do step from the sac rest in the low 150s to 168 for a mash out. It usually takes me about 10min for a 5 gallon batch.
 
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank
 
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank

I see you chose the 2" pipe size. I've used the 1 1/2" pipe and had good success. I think the parts are cheaper as well.

Though I purchased back in 2010 and I'm sure there's price creep. Here's my purchase from then:

Item Number Description Qty Price Extension
-------------- ------------------------------ ------- ------- ----------
S4C ROS11/2 11/2 CROSS 304SS 1 15.00 .00
S4T 11/2 11/2 TEE 304SS 1 10.55 15.00
S4B 1X1/4 1 X 1/4 HEX BUSHING 304SS 1 2.15 10.55
S4B 11/2X1/2 11/2 X 1/2 HEX BUSHING 304SS 3 4.60 2.15
S4B 11/2X1 11/2 X 1 HEX BUSHING 304SS 2 4.60 13.80
S4N 11/2X8 1 1/2 X 8 SCH40 NIP 304SS 1 14.48 9.20
DIX TN34 NYLON 3/8"HOSE X 1/2"NPT 2 .50 14.48
MEI WEBDISC ONLINE ORDER DISCOUNT 1- 1.32 1.00
Order Totals 64.86


I also used a cross on one end instead of a tee so I could easily dump the contents.
 
Ok So I'm planning a RIMS build at the beginning of the year....maybe a little earlier, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I might need to put it together myself or just buy one. I took all the part numbers from the 1st post at Murray Equipment and entered them into the cart to get a total and this is what I've got. Mind you, none of the electrical panel stuff is in there of course and I've put the SS valve in the cart, but honestly I could just use 1 of the brass ones I've got laying around to save $20.



S4N2X10 $21.18 (2"x10" SS Nipple)
S4B2X1/2 (x3) $28.11 (2" x 1/2 SS HEX bushing)
S4T2 (x2) $36.16 (2" SS Tee)
S4B2X1 $9.37 (2" x 1" SS HEX bushing)
INL1/2SSLL $17.40 (1/2" SS Ball Valve)

Total $112.22

Has there been anyone else out there that has gone this route and can comment or give advice of some nuances about building this? Tricks learned? While the bought RIMS tube runs almost $40 more expensive than this, can I expect any issues going the DIY route? I do love a good home made brew toy.

Thank

I would get the tri clover tube from Brewer's hardware or Glacer. If I had to go back I would also get a cross end as stlbeer suggests. Although the tri clover fittings made it pretty easy do dump and clean everything, dumping would be made even easier by using a cross tee.
 
I see you chose the 2" pipe size. I've used the 1 1/2" pipe and had good success. I think the parts are cheaper as well.

Though I purchased back in 2010 and I'm sure there's price creep. Here's my purchase from then:

Item Number Description Qty Price Extension
-------------- ------------------------------ ------- ------- ----------
S4C ROS11/2 11/2 CROSS 304SS 1 15.00 .00
S4T 11/2 11/2 TEE 304SS 1 10.55 15.00
S4B 1X1/4 1 X 1/4 HEX BUSHING 304SS 1 2.15 10.55
S4B 11/2X1/2 11/2 X 1/2 HEX BUSHING 304SS 3 4.60 2.15
S4B 11/2X1 11/2 X 1 HEX BUSHING 304SS 2 4.60 13.80
S4N 11/2X8 1 1/2 X 8 SCH40 NIP 304SS 1 14.48 9.20
DIX TN34 NYLON 3/8"HOSE X 1/2"NPT 2 .50 14.48
MEI WEBDISC ONLINE ORDER DISCOUNT 1- 1.32 1.00
Order Totals 64.86


I also used a cross on one end instead of a tee so I could easily dump the contents.

I simply used the same item numbers that were in the 1st post. I notice that most of the RIMS tubes are using 1 1/2in diameter housings so I wouldn't be opposed to it. Also, like you said, it would be considerably cheaper. Could you post a few pictures of your set up? A cross fittings instead of the Tee sounds intriguing, but I'd like to see how you have it set up. Maybe pictures showing before and after removing for cleaning.

I know the tri-clamps are easier all around, but again, I'm not at all against removing a bushing or cap to dump the contents after each brew to save such a large amount of money. My tool kit usually sits next to my brew stand while brewing anyway, so I'm looking at undoing a tri-clamp or a couple turns of the wrench.

Thanks for your help!
 
Hey all

First time poster long time brewer, electrical doofus. Trying to switch to electricity in my garage and have a 20 amp 240 volt outlet available to me. I am wondering if the ebrew supplies 30a one element and PID kit can be made appropriate just by installing a 4500 watt element instead of the 5500 that it is designed for? Thanks.

Read the entire thread once. Will start over and keep learning.
 
Hi all. I'm looking for some help wiring my basic basic RIMS tube cooler MLT. I believe I have all the correct parts but I'm looking for some opinions on how to wire up the system. Here is a list and pic of my parts:



Cooler MLT w/false bottom

SS Chugger pump w/SS ball valve

1.5" SS tri-clover RIMS tube

Camco 1500W 120v heating element

4" temp probe

Auber 2352 PID

Auber 25A SSR

Heat sink to be mounted outside box

2 120V lighted switches (pump & element)

2 outlets for pump and element

1 LED indicator for element power



I plan on running the system off a standard 110 GFCI. Any direction/criticism will help. I'm just beginning. Thanks.ImageUploadedByHome Brew1389198449.571107.jpg
 
Hi all. I'm looking for some help wiring my basic basic RIMS tube cooler MLT. I believe I have all the correct parts but I'm looking for some opinions on how to wire up the system. Here is a list and pic of my parts:



Cooler MLT w/false bottom

SS Chugger pump w/SS ball valve

1.5" SS tri-clover RIMS tube

Camco 1500W 120v heating element

4" temp probe

Auber 2352 PID

Auber 25A SSR

Heat sink to be mounted outside box

2 120V lighted switches (pump & element)

2 outlets for pump and element

1 LED indicator for element power



I plan on running the system off a standard 110 GFCI. Any direction/criticism will help. I'm just beginning. Thanks.View attachment 170935


Did you get everything set up and working? Curious about the heatsink being mounted on the outside of the panel.
 
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