• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

RIMS for Dummies

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I say go for it. Also mount the tube so it has a slight downhill slope towards the outlet. Let's say, maybe 10 degrees or so. It's honestly what works best for you. Us engineers can beat a horse to death in the details of a design, but proof is in the pudding, as they say.
 
Design it so it has a dump valve...

DSC00885.jpg
 
Design it so it has a dump valve...

DSC00885.jpg

I thought about it but couldn't find a 1 1/2" cross piece (not that I looked very hard). I just saw a design that I like better. Put the output and temp probe inline with each other meaning I'll rotate the right side so the temp probe is on top and the output is on the bottom. And then angle it towards the output. Should work well I think... Now to just get back up to my dads shop to get the big pipe wrench lol
 
I thought about it but couldn't find a 1 1/2" cross piece (not that I looked very hard). I just saw a design that I like better. Put the output and temp probe inline with each other meaning I'll rotate the right side so the temp probe is on top and the output is on the bottom. And then angle it towards the output. Should work well I think... Now to just get back up to my dads shop to get the big pipe wrench lol

If you put the output pointed down, where will the air bubbles go? I'd suggest having the output pointing up, just like on a pump, to keep the bubbles out of the RIMS tube and potentially causing part of your element to be exposed.
 
I just ordered my heating element and the RTD.

I am looking at switches for my rig. I am looking at these, but I am not sure if I need the 1 NO 1 NC version or the 2 NC version. With everything else running, will the LEDs use up too much power on a 120v system?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=303

The LED's will not take up any noticable power. I was going to purchase those same switches but just went with radio shack toggles.

20130223_152738.jpg
 
The LED's will not take up any noticable power. I was going to purchase those same switches but just went with radio shack toggles.

That's a nice rig! So, do I need the 1 NO 1 NC version or the 2 NC version of the switches?

I got my heater element over the weekend. Even though I saw the picture online, it seems smaller than what I was expecting. Still no rims tube. I'll have to call glacier again.
 
That's a nice rig! So, do I need the 1 NO 1 NC version or the 2 NC version of the switches?

I got my heater element over the weekend. Even though I saw the picture online, it seems smaller than what I was expecting. Still no rims tube. I'll have to call glacier again.

Not sure on that question, I would email Auberins and ask them, they were very prompt at getting back to me. As for that RIMS tube I would be tempted to cancel that order and go with Stout tanks RIMS tube. Crapy pic but you get the idea.

20130302_170933.jpg
 
Not sure on that question, I would email Auberins and ask them, they were very prompt at getting back to me. As for that RIMS tube I would be tempted to cancel that order and go with Stout tanks RIMS tube. Crapy pic but you get the idea.

Just got off the phone with them. The shipment with the RIMS tubes was shared with another supplier. Somehow bugs grew in the container and they had to send everything back. I am looking at 3-4 weeks before they ship the item.

I told them I would call back to cancel if I find an alternative. Stout tanks comes out to $176 after shipping. I would have to replace the hose barbs to fit my system.
 
Just got off the phone with them. The shipment with the RIMS tubes was shared with another supplier. Somehow bugs grew in the container and they had to send everything back. I am looking at 3-4 weeks before they ship the item.

I told them I would call back to cancel if I find an alternative. Stout tanks comes out to $176 after shipping. I would have to replace the hose barbs to fit my system.

What size are your hose barbs? They may be able to accomodate. Call or Email John at Stout Tanks he may be able to help you. Good luck
 
What size are your hose barbs? They may be able to accomodate. Call or Email John at Stout Tanks he may be able to help you. Good luck

I misspoke. I'm putting in some quick disconnects, so I won't be using hose barbs.

I'm just going to wait the month. I can save up money for the electronics and some brewing ingredients.
 
I misspoke. I'm putting in some quick disconnects, so I won't be using hose barbs.

I'm just going to wait the month. I can save up money for the electronics and some brewing ingredients.

Good luck look foward to seeing and hearing how it comes out.
Heading to Stout Tanks tomorrow for more valves and adapters.
Mo money Mo money, has to end somewhere.
 
So I finished wireing the Control box last night and will be testing the wiring tonight, I decided to control the heating element for the RIMS seperatly that way there will better chance of not running the element dry, I will start the pump and fill the tube then fire the element when that is achieved.

ControlBoxOuter.jpg


WiringControlBox.jpg
 
So I finished wireing the Control box last night and will be testing the wiring tonight, I decided to control the heating element for the RIMS seperatly that way there will better chance of not running the element dry, I will start the pump and fill the tube then fire the element when that is achieved.

That sir, is some messy wiring. Kudos though, it looks great otherwise. Besides who cares about what's behin your great looking front panel. I like that you are operating the pump separately, but just be aware that you may want to insulate your rims with something to avoid the heat loss inherent in constant recirc. It won't matter as much in terms of your mash, but it'll certainly make your SSR turn on/off more often and they do eventually burn out.
 
That sir, is some messy wiring. Kudos though, it looks great otherwise. Besides who cares about what's behin your great looking front panel. I like that you are operating the pump separately, but just be aware that you may want to insulate your rims with something to avoid the heat loss inherent in constant recirc. It won't matter as much in terms of your mash, but it'll certainly make your SSR turn on/off more often and they do eventually burn out.

I will keep the insulating in mind, ya messy huh, good thing I dont do it for a living or I wouldnt be living.
The transfer tubes are long too, oh well will test this weekend and see what happens.
 
Well the RIMS tube worked like a dream even uninsulated, after we got the programming figured out on the PID. Good to go on that.
 
That's great! Post some pics of your rig!


I will, had some heating issues yesterday got those figured out today, HLT had a crack in the thermowell and mineral oil leaked out have to take HLT tank back, too bad wanted to brew this comming weekend.

Here is a couple pics the pumps are not 4" further out because of the heat, and a few other pieces of sheet metal channeling heat away from the control box.

20130302_170814.jpg


20130302_170520.jpg
 
I will keep the insulating in mind, ya messy huh, good thing I dont do it for a living or I wouldnt be living.
The transfer tubes are long too, oh well will test this weekend and see what happens.

Did not need to insulate the RIMS tube it controled heat great without doing that.
 
Did not need to insulate the RIMS tube it controled heat great without doing that.

I only mentioned insulating the RIMS as protection for your SSR. SSRs do burn out after a while and can only energize a finite number of times. Having your pump run continuously and not be controlled in parallel with the heating element allows for more heat loss and consequently forces your SSR to energize more often to turn on the heating element to compensate. Honestly, it was more of an academic thought. My RIMS is uninsulated as well and the whole point is for it to control the temp. I'm glad it all worked out. :mug:
 
I only mentioned insulating the RIMS as protection for your SSR. SSRs do burn out after a while and can only energize a finite number of times. Having your pump run continuously and not be controlled in parallel with the heating element allows for more heat loss. Honestly, it was more of an academic thought. My RIMS is uninsulated as well and the whole point is for it to control the temp. I'm glad it all worked out. :mug:

Ok, could you tell me what controller and SSR you are using?
 
I will, had some heating issues yesterday got those figured out today, HLT had a crack in the thermowell and mineral oil leaked out have to take HLT tank back, too bad wanted to brew this comming weekend.

Here is a couple pics the pumps are not 4" further out because of the heat, and a few other pieces of sheet metal channeling heat away from the control box.

That is so amazing. Did you put together most of that yourself? I wish I had welding and electrician experience. Oh and of course, some spare time to do all this lol. Oh and money, haha.

Anyway, your system looks great.
 
Back
Top