RIMS for Dummies

[gregkabob]

klyph, Ya, I know I missed the details DOH

stlbeer, More than ready to help out. This is the best home brew site out there and my first stop when I need info. It's great that everyone is willing to help the electrically challenged folks like me.

Greg

 

[davidr7283]

Greg,
Thanks for getting the kinks worked out on the PID. I have the same one and should be testing my RIMS this weekend. With the info you found out and the great help from HBT it should help me immensely.

 

[gregkabob]

David,

Just so everyone knows what worked for me:

All the parts I used are from the original thead except that the PID is the 4352 and not the 4342 since the 4352 is set up for the SSR.

The thermocouple is the one from omega. The Omega web site shows a 12 inch and I called them to get it made into a 4". Took two weeks to get. After looking at the Auberins site I could have purchased it from them.

In the end the PID is set (kept) at the factory settings except of course for the temp.

I set my temp to 160. Brought the temp of the water to 158 adjusted the flow for brew day and turned on the heater. The PID brought the temp up to 160 and kept it there no problem.

Then I let the water cool to 158 and put it into Auto Tune. It did it's thing and was done in less than 15 min. Worked great and temps are holding great.

I think what I did in the begining was to mess with some of the factory settings. Even when I thought I had them set to Factory I still had the A-M setting at 0 and it should have been at 2. ( as pointed out to me and I missed it DOH )

Bottom line is it was operator error.

I hope my exeriance helps others and I really do apprcieate the support offered on this board. Can't wait to return from Fl to try it out. I have a 10 gl batch of Blue Moon clone ready to brew for my wife.

Greg

 

[P-J]

...
I have a 10 gl batch of Blue Moon clone ready to brew for my wife.

Greg

I am so jealous of your planned Blue Moon. That is just plainly an awesome beer that I frequently order at restaurants whenever I can.

I'm also really pleased that you have gotten your setup working properly.

You no longer need luck at this point so I wish you great success.

P-J

 

[gregkabob]

Thanks P-J. This will be the second batch of BM clone and my wife really likes it even though I drink most of it. I have a Kirin clone just ready to drink now. I tried it last night and have to say I like it. First beer using rice as one of the ingredients. One of the reason's I put together the RIMS is because the rubber maid mash tun will not hold it all per the recipe. Now that I can use the RIMS in the Keggle Mash Tun I'll be able to do the step infushion easier.

I just recieved my PICO style false bottom today and will install when I get home.

Greg

 

[Dgonza9]

I'm moving to a tri-clover attachment on my Rims tube. I had some scorching today for the first time. I think it's because I started using the RIMS to bring the temp of the mash up to 168 for a mashout. Recirculating to clean it just wasn't getting her done.

Anyway, it seems like the element I have, the one from the parts list at the beginning of this post, may be too short. The tri-clover adds some depth to the attachment, I think. So I'm looking for a replacement that's longer, maybe straight. I have about 12" between the end of the tube and the probe.

Here's the element I have. Any suggestions for a new one? Many thanks, guys.

 

[kwadric]

I used a cam fitting on my RIMs and I've been really happy with it. I think it is as effective as a tri clover but a little cheaper. I have a parts list somewhere if any one wants me to dig it up.

 

[fxbghokie]

I used the same element and was plagued with scorching any time I used the RIMS to bring the temp of the tun up. I don't claim to understand all of the math behind it, but you need a longer element. Spread the heat over more surface area, i.e. reduce the heat density. CAMCO makes the same element in a 5500 watt version for about $20. That said, I brewed two batches with the 5500W element with no issues. I then used it to do a wheat and had a lot of scorching. 120 -> 143, then 143 -> 157, finally 157 -> 168. I did reduce the flow because I was worried about a stuck mash. So this could have been operator error.

 

[Dgonza9]

I used the same element and was plagued with scorching any time I used the RIMS to bring the temp of the tun up. I don't claim to understand all of the math behind it, but you need a longer element. Spread the heat over more surface area, i.e. reduce the heat density. CAMCO makes the same element in a 5500 watt version for about $20. That said, I brewed two batches with the 5500W element with no issues. I then used it to do a wheat and had a lot of scorching. 120 -> 143, then 143 -> 157, finally 157 -> 168. I did reduce the flow because I was worried about a stuck mash. So this could have been operator error.

I wound up ordering THIS ELEMENT.

Hopefully it'll perform better. I was getting such great efficiency doing a mash out. Hopefully the remove and clean of the element will also help.

I'd also read that this particular element may not even be LWD. It seems these were "changed" by the manufacturer some time ago to make them "better." I think that's buried somewhere in this RIMS thread.

 

[ScottSingleton]

There was some discussion a bit ago in this thread about how to cap off the element ends and protect you (and them). I had previously been using a PVC cap, grommet, and some waterproof electrical tape. I think I even uploaded a picture some pages ago.

I just came across this stuff called Sugru. It's Air-curable moldable silicone rubber. you basically mold it like clay and once it cures (24 hours) it is heat resistant to about 360F and remains waterproof, solid, though slightly flexible. It feels kinda like the rubber for a bicycle tire. This stuff costs a bit but once I got it I fell in love with it. I've since found all sorts of ways to use it within my build and ended up having to go and order a few more packs.

Here's a pic of the package and the results:

 

[bellinmi88]

Where did you buy it?

 

[ScottSingleton]

amazon has it; so does MakerShed.Com

 

[Primevci]

Was wondering if i ordered the right stuff

1 x 25A SSR (MGR-1D4825) = $15.00
1 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread (PT100-L1001/2NPT) =
$45.35
Cable Option Deluxe Cable
1 x 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-43X2) = $59.50
Output Configuration Option SYL-4342 Relay Contactor

 

[stlbeer]

Was wondering if i ordered the right stuff

1 x 25A SSR (MGR-1D4825) = $15.00
1 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread (PT100-L1001/2NPT) =
$45.35
Cable Option Deluxe Cable
1 x 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-43X2) = $59.50
Output Configuration Option SYL-4342 Relay Contactor

You need a PID that supports SSR output, such as the SYL-4352. The SYL-4342 supports RELAY output.

You can probably call Auber and have the order changed.

 

[Primevci]

You need a PID that supports SSR output, such as the SYL-4352. The SYL-4342 supports RELAY output.

You can probably call Auber and have the order changed.

Thanks I adctually read threw allot of post and found out I needed the 4352 sent a email yesterday and the fixed it yesterday witch I thought was odd but I'm happy also ordered the heat sink and they added it to my order from before and refunded me the shipping that was charged for the heat sink that site has great customer service..... I wonder if the op can list the proper pid on his diagram since he has the 4342 shown on it....

 

[stlbeer]

... I wonder if the op can list the proper pid on his diagram since he has the 4342 shown on it....

Well, it was about 3 years ago, but I'd say nope.

I've built about 4 of these. If you need assistance, don't be afraid to chime in.

 

[Dgonza9]

I've cycled through a few elements in the past year. The first one said it was 120V 1500W ULWD, but I came to find out (as others did) that this 4 1/2" element was definitely not ULWD. I changed it out and went to a 9" element that was 120V and 1500W. Said LWD, but was much longer.

Well, I recently did a pilsner and had some scorching when ramping up for a mashout. I did do a protein rest and that created quite a lot of protein gunk.

So I went to amazon.com and bought a 220V ULWD element that was 4500W. I figured I'd run it at 120V and avoid scorching. Thing is, the element is shorter than a 220V 4500W LWD element I have in my BK running at 220V.

WTF? Does amazon and Camco just lie about these things? The new one is a lime life element, but it's 10" long and the other one is 13." Can't see how it can have less watt density, can you? Thinking about sending it back.

One other question, does anyone successfully do temperature ramps with their RIMS tube? I never have scorching issues just maintaining temps. But I have twice gotten some scorch when doing ramps from a protein rest or for mash out. I get good flow. I'm not measuring it, but it's solid.

Cheers.

 

[rosienej]

I've cycled through a few elements in the past year. The first one said it was 120V 1500W ULWD, but I came to find out (as others did) that this 4 1/2" element was definitely not ULWD. I changed it out and went to a 9" element that was 120V and 1500W. Said LWD, but was much longer.

Well, I recently did a pilsner and had some scorching when ramping up for a mashout. I did do a protein rest and that created quite a lot of protein gunk.

So I went to amazon.com and bought a 220V ULWD element that was 4500W. I figured I'd run it at 120V and avoid scorching. Thing is, the element is shorter than a 220V 4500W LWD element I have in my BK running at 220V.

WTF? Does amazon and Camco just lie about these things? The new one is a lime life element, but it's 10" long and the other one is 13." Can't see how it can have less watt density, can you? Thinking about sending it back.

One other question, does anyone successfully do temperature ramps with their RIMS tube? I never have scorching issues just maintaining temps. But I have twice gotten some scorch when doing ramps from a protein rest or for mash out. I get good flow. I'm not measuring it, but it's solid.

Cheers.

I do ramps using heat tape outside of a rims tube with no issues.

 

[killian]

heat tape?

 

[rosienej]

heat tape?

I documented it here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electric-heating-element-rims-eherms-293810/

I am doing a couple of cycles this weekend so I will take photos to document the process.

Joel

 

[biestie]

I've decided I want to go the RIMS tube route, but before I start ordering parts can I get a sanity check to make sure I'm not missing something, or have some gross misconception.

Tube - http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts/122-rims

Temperature Controller - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

RTD - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=246

SSR - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

Heat Sink - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=45

Heating Element - http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/me...=W&Product_Code=120VBP_EL&Category_Code=EBREW

I'm going to find a box on ebay and am pretty confident in the wiring, as long as I know I've got the right parts. I've got a 20A outlet in my garage so I'm going to also be running the pump off the panel as well. I also know that I'd probably be able to do better buying the heating element and enclosure piece by piece, but I'm ok with spending a few extra bucks rather than figuring out how to enclose the elements connections on my own.

So I ask you, am I out to lunch with what I'm ordering?

 

[pickles]

I would suggest you choose a RIMs tube that you can easily and routinely disassemble in order to give the element a good scrubbing. Brewing Hardware sells a tri-clover version for $40 more than the one you linked to.

 

[biestie]

I know, I looked at that. There is a lot more than 40$ difference though, by the time you buy the fittings to support the heating element, and the temp probe. I'm still thinking about it.

Is cleaning it really that big of a deal? I mean, it doesn't have to be sanitized. I figured I'd blow PBW through it to get the gunks out.

 

[pickles]

Yes it's that important. The element gets a weird film on it from protein or something. You can't get it off without rubbing/wiping. Eventually it gets baked on. Do a quick search and you'll see a lot of people wishing it was easier to take the RIMs apart for cleaning. There are other options besides the ones Derrin makes too.

 

[kwadric]

Check out the cam locks at pro flow dynamics. I used a set to make my element removable from the tube. They have stainless steel and aluminum. I used stainless threaded pipe and the aluminum can locks. No issues in a year. I can get you lengths and diameters if you are interested.

 

[JoeyChopps]

I have the tri-clover clamp rims tube and the guys are right every time I tear the rig apart there's a weird slime on all the parts that need a gentle scrub to remove. The tube cost me around 150 but piece of mind was worth it. I have a parts list if anyone wants it.

 

[JoeyChopps]

Plus with the tri-clover outfit I can tool around with different configurations and add parts latter with no problem.

 

[biestie]

Fine fockers, you win. I ordered the trio-clover.

 

[pickles]

Hooray, I'm influential! You love that thing for sure. Plus it may be easier to replace the element when you dry fire it (which you will).

 

[vnmyers13]

Would love to see a parts list. I know this is bringing back and old thread but that is exactly what i am looking for.