RIMS for Dummies

[dulavjo]

what's the best way to ground the two wire heating element

 

[Layne]

Back to the top

 

[Thundercougarfalconbird]

I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?
2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)
3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.
4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)
5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Coldies]

.

 

[stlbeer]

I had a few technical questions and since this thread is MASSIVE. I figure someone can help me long before I find it.

1. What does the PID control exactly? The pump or the element? Is the one that isn't controlled on all the time?

The PID controls the heating element. The pump runs for the duration of the mash.

2. How do you clean the inside of your RIMS tube (I'd rather not spend 150+ on a Triclover version)

These are easily cleaned at the end of the mash by recirculating a PBW solution through it. Hot PBW performs better. I run it up to 130*F.

3. How do you prevent overly compacted grainbeds? I figure you need to have the valves open full force to keep things from catching fire and whatnot.

Compacted grain beds can be controlled by limiting pump throughput and by using rice hulls. Rice hulls keep the mash loose and prevent compaction. The valves do not need to be fully open. I run mine about 35-40% open. If the mash gets stuck and there is no flow through the tube, then the wort will heat up and the temperature probe/PID will not allow the temperature to go over the set point on the PID. It will heat up rather quickly though given the small volume of liquid in the tube. The heater element should be of a extra or ultra low density type - <50 watts / square inch of element surface area. These have not been known to scorch wort.

4. With so much water flow how do you prevent channeling? Again, I feel like the grainbed will be very uneven (maybe this doesn't matter with a false bottom)

I have simply laid the hose on the top of the grain bed and for a 30 lb grain bill I have not had serious channeling. Several folks will sprinkle the wort on to the grain bed with a circular tube that has lots of holes drilled in it. Similar to a mash tun manifold.

5. If someone could direct me towards a nice simple cheapo 120v cheapo style toolbox build I'd really appreciate it.

I've seen some folks do this with the toolbox RIMS systems. Search for that and you'll find what you're looking for.

Good Luck!

 

[Thundercougarfalconbird]

I have a Kal style sparge hose in my tun, it seems like my grainbed is very uneven after recirculation. Perhaps I'm running my pump too fast?

 

[Frogger42]

Has anyone used the following eBay components? Looks like I can save a lot of coin, but I am always reminded of the age old adage "you get what you pay for"

1. PID - $28 delivered (eBay Link)
2. SSR + Heatsink - $12 delivered (eBay Link)
3. Thermocouple - $10 plus Shipping (eBay Link)

 

[phoenixs4r]

How wide is everyone elements? Can I fit one in a keg dip tube?

 

[klyph]

You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.

 

[phoenixs4r]

You can fit an immersion element in a keg with a diptube, you cannot fit the element inside the diptube itself. You could fit a thermocouple probe in a diptube, but it would cause a serious restriction and give you nothing but headaches.

Bummer. Trying to find something to do with these dip tubes lol

 

[freshhoarse]

How wide is everyone elements? Can I fit one in a keg dip tube?

Corny or Sanke?

 

[phoenixs4r]

Sanke

 

[Elfmaze]

Sanke

I use my dip tubes to protect my sight glasses

 

[Frogger42]

I use my dip tubes to protect my sight glasses

I use my dip tube to measure my SWMBO

 

[Stevo2569]

I use my dip tube to measure my SWMBO

Measuring what??

 

[Frogger42]

Measuring what??

Depth and satisfaction

 

[Stevo2569]

Depth and satisfaction

I hope you put a cap on it.

 

[humann_brewing]

anyone putting this together and need the RTD probe?

I am looking to sell the 2" probe from auburn
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=189

Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 in, 1/4 NPT Thread

Nothing wrong with it, I just need a longer one and have no use for this one.

 

[Frogger42]

I hope you put a cap on it.

Well played sir!!!

 

[Frogger42]

anyone putting this together and need the RTD probe?

I am looking to sell the 2" probe from auburn
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=189

Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 in, 1/4 NPT Thread

Nothing wrong with it, I just need a longer one and have no use for this one.

PM sent

 

[Frogger42]

Has anyone used the following eBay components? Looks like I can save a lot of coin, but I am always reminded of the age old adage "you get what you pay for"

1. PID - $28 delivered (eBay Link)
2. SSR + Heatsink - $12 delivered (eBay Link)
3. Thermocouple - $10 plus Shipping (eBay Link)

Any thoughts about the above components?

 

[P-J]

Any thoughts about the above components?

Like you said: You get what you pay for.

I do not think the PID has a manual mode so be prepared to set up additional control function so that you can control the boil.

For me? I'd only deal with the Auber Instruments PIDs.

 

[Frogger42]

Like you said: You get what you pay for.

I do not think the PID has a manual mode so be prepared to set up additional control function so that you can control the boil.

For me? I'd only deal with the Auber Instruments PIDs.

I am only considering this PID in the context of a RIMS tube

 

[humann_brewing]

Any thoughts about the above components?

6" is a pretty long probe, do you have room for it in the rims tube?

 

[armurray189]

What would be the consequences of inverting the placement of the heating element and the temp probe, so that the wort is hitting the probe first? Would that not increase the accuracy in terms of compensating for any heat loss in the cycle? Or would it possibly overcompensate? Or does it not even matter?

 

[magnj]

The system would not know when to stop applying heat as I understand it.

I do wonder what 2 probes and some sort of digital flow meter connected to some software might do. You would know temp in, temp out, and flow rate. I imagine it would know much more precisely how much heat to add.

 

[klyph]

If the system is controlled by a PID cycle and the flow rate remains constant, there should be no trouble regulating temperature. And yes, you want the probe AFTER the heating element, so the system gets feedback from it's input.

 

[armurray189]

Just ordered all the stuff for the RIMS build, went with a 1 1/2 x 8" stainless nipple with a 4 inch liquid tight probe from auber (1/2" npt) and the ultra-low density element from plumbing supply. Can't wait for everything to arrive

 

[pnh2atl]

OK I'm going to help solidify the thread title by asking a dumb question. There is no thermocouple on the MLT in the diagram from the first page. So what triggers the pump and the element? I know this is a remedial question but I tried to figure it out to save face but hey that is what screen names are for.

 

[pickles]

The pump is run continuously. The element is in the RIMS, as is the temp sensor. So the temp sensor will talk to the PID and call for power from the SSR. Feedback from a temp probe in the MLT (or several as in my case) can help with consistency and over/under shooting mash temps, however, you need a micro controller and some specialized software to manage it all.