RIMS for Dummies

[klyph]

If you mounted a RIMS tube vertical on the side of the vessel with the input toward the bottom of the vessel and the output at the top, you could probably boil without a pump using convection to circulate.

 

[dutch101st]

If you mounted a RIMS tube vertical on the side of the vessel with the input toward the bottom of the vessel and the output at the top, you could probably boil without a pump using convection to circulate.

Sounds like you have conviction in that convection! :cross:


RIMS is not really meant to boil with...at least that is what I always thought. Besides, why would you?!?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

If you mounted a RIMS tube vertical on the side of the vessel with the input toward the bottom of the vessel and the output at the top, you could probably boil without a pump using convection to circulate.

Seems like there would be a chance of scorching the wort?

What is the benefit of of using a RIM's tube in that way that would even justify the cost of the material?

I'm not understanding what the intended goal is.

 

[klyph]

Maybe to keep the element out of the vessel to get a better whirlpool. If the tube was isolated with valves, you could replace the element even if your vessel was full. And it would look cool?

I dunno, it was just a thought, though I have seriously considered mounting a RIMS tube to the outside of the mash tun to make a standalone mashtun with strike/sparge water on demand.

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

I dunno, it was just a thought, though I have seriously considered mounting a RIMS tube to the outside of the mash tun to make a standalone mashtun with strike/sparge water on demand.

You need a lot of power to get on-demand strike/sparge water from a RIMS tube. Raising water from 55 degrees to 155 or 170 degrees is a real challenge. There are several posts on HBT with the math to support this challenge.

 

[klyph]

I've done it, a 5500w 240v element can give you a 100 degree temperature differential at a pretty decent flow rate. If you are using room temp water or even hot water from the heater, it's definitely possible.

Here's a terrible video I made using a 5500w element to achieve a 110 deg differential with a decent enough flow rate for sparging.
I need to redo it with a gate valve and with the RIMS in/out ports facing up. I also need to definitively measure the output, but from the looks of it, you could sparge or strike with it.

 

[Sawdustguy]

I've done it, a 5500w 240v element can give you a 100 degree temperature differential at a pretty decent flow rate. If you are using room temp water or even hot water from the heater, it's definitely possible.

Here's a terrible video I made using a 5500w element to achieve a 110 deg differential with a decent enough flow rate for sparging.
I need to redo it with a gate valve and with the RIMS in/out ports facing up. I also need to definitively measure the output, but from the looks of it, you could sparge or strike with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9X8s07MJ-A

It is definetely not "on demand". It took almost 5 minutes to get to temperature. You may get enough for fly sparging but you will still need an HLT because it looks like it could take a very long time to get any volume of strike water. If you need an HLT for strike water you may as well use it for sparging so what would be the benefit?

 

[klyph]

It is definetely not "on demand". It took almost 5 minutes to get to temperature. You may get enough for fly sparging but you will still need an HLT because it looks like it could take a very long time to get any volume of strike water. If you need an HLT for strike water you may as well use it for sparging so what would be the benefit?

It only took the time for me to get the valve set at the correct flow, otherwise it was instantaneous as it was flowing in a single pass. I'll measure the flow rate next time, as until then, this is all conjecture. However, if you consider the time it takes to fill the HLT and then heat to strike temps, I doubt it will be significantly less time than slowly filling the mash tun with water that's already up to temperature.

And even if it only works for sparging, there's no reason you can't use your kettle to heat the strike water and eliminate the HLT altogether.

 

[Sawdustguy]

It only took the time for me to get the valve set at the correct flow, otherwise it was instantaneous as it was flowing in a single pass. I'll measure the flow rate next time, as until then, this is all conjecture. However, if you consider the time it takes to fill the HLT and then heat to strike temps, I doubt it will be significantly less time than slowly filling the mash tun with water that's already up to temperature.

And even if it only works for sparging, there's no reason you can't use your kettle to heat the strike water and eliminate the HLT altogether.

I agree you can heat your strike water in your Boil Kettle eliminating a vessel. I still don't like it for strike water because there will cooling of the water as you fill if the best flow is just good enough for sparging.

 

[magnj]

Thanks for the input guys. My thinking was 2 fold...flexibility and safety. I want to be able to control the HLT and MLT temps, I want to brew all electric (although I'm still trying to figure out if my current situation will facilitate that). I entertained the idea of a RIMS tube and a heatstick, but seeing the heatstick builds scared be a bit, I don't like the idea of the connections being underwater in a failure situation. I also would like to minimize the about of holes I drill in my aluminum kettles should my circumstances change (electric vs. gas). BUT I'm open to suggestions, and if a RIMS tube for boiling is going to be problematic then I won't do it.

Honestly at this point I may give up on ALL electric for now and go with a 120V rims tube and gas fired HLT. idk

 

[klyph]

It was tough for me to make the commitment to drill 1" holes in my vessels, but I've never looked back.

Electric>Gas in almost every way I can think of.

 

[longwaytofall]

Aw, but you don't get to play with fire. I love that stuff.

About hot water heater elements being screwed into tapered female fittings, it wasn't a problem for me because the threads on the element are not long at all. Also, instead of spending lots on a tap, why not just use a dremel to remove a few threads from the ID of the coupler? This should do the trick just fine. Remember, you only need enough threads to tighten it down (not strip) because the threads aren't sealing anything, the gasket does.

 

[pola0502ds]

After reading this entire thread I was wondering if someone could put together a parts list so that a person who understands RIMS but not controllers and the electrical side can purchase the items and have a buddy who does know about the electrical side assemble it =). At the beginning of the thread there is a awesome parts lists but I don't think it includes the controller, etc.. Also, since the beginning of the thread, people have come up with modifications and better ideas so I don't know if it makes sense to update the parts list and add electrical components?

I think it would actually be a good thing for this thread to kind of sum it all up.

Along the lines of what I said above, and if my request cannot be met can someone point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. My system right now is not automated at all, what I want to do is add a tri-clamp RIMS tube with a basic controller that will recirc. the mash. I was also hoping that I can recirc. the HLT in the same RIMS tube. Can that be done?

-Dave

 

[bulldogxray]

Got most of my build done today after the replacement RTD probe & 1/2 to 1/4 adapter arrived. Here are some pics. I'll likely start my own thread to detil the build once I get it completely done. Idea is a tabletop-type design that can store in minimal space. The RIMS will not rest on top of the control/toolbox during use. It will hang vertically on the side of my 10 gallon rubermaid, with the element-end on the bottom. Thanks Sawdustguy for the inspiration.

The toolbox:

Pump mounted on toolbox:

Detail of RIMS manifold:

Detail on wiring:

Ok so I am trying to put together a rims. I have some of the parts but I am trying to figure out what else I need and how to hook them up. looking at your picture with the tool box open I have the SSR and the PID, but what is that part just north of the pid? Is that what is called a bus and if so what is it's purpose? What is the part on the left side of the tool box oppisite of the pump?

Thanks

 

[jmer1234]

Dave-

I have not put together a parts list yet, but am currently working on documenting my particular RIMS setup on my website, mersonbrewing.com. Shortly I will have the wiring schematic up for my control box.

As far as the hlt, yes, with an additional valve manifold. Right now I am able to mash or heat the hlt, but what I actually do is heat the hlt water separately, then use the rims to maintain the hlt temp while I sparge.

 

[Dgonza9]

but what is that part just north of the pid? Is that what is called a bus and if so what is it's purpose? What is the part on the left side of the tool box oppisite of the pump?

Thanks

The bus is kind of like a power distribution center for the toolbox. You hook up your load wire to the tab and jumper the connections on one side. You can then add several load lines to each device needing power without having to twist them all together.

 

[dutch101st]

The thing opposite is the SSR if that is what you are refering to...otherwise it appears to be a connectior for the temp probe

 

[bulldogxray]

The bus is kind of like a power distribution center for the toolbox. You hook up your load wire to the tab and jumper the connections on one side. You can then add several load lines to each device needing power without having to twist them all together.

Thanks obviously I need to do more research before I start messing with this.

 

[dutch101st]

I did all of mine on here and it is not as hard as what you think. Having said that, I did have some help on the electrical end.

This might help:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/wiring-diagram-pid-controller-rims-213340/

 

[P-J]

The thing opposite is the SSR if that is what you are refering to...otherwise it appears to be a connectior for the temp probe

Hmm. On the "left side of the box" the device is the back side of a standard duplex outlet.

 

[bulldogxray]

Hmm. On the "left side of the box" the device is the back side of a standard duplex outlet.

So it is. I could not tell but once you said it I can see it now thanks

 

[dutch101st]

Hmm. On the "left side of the box" the device is the back side of a standard duplex outlet.

Duh...yea.

Hehee so they EYES are the first thing to go! Well, may as well enjoy the use of that ciallus perscription then! hehee

 

[Carlyle]

So who will make one for an electrical retard?

 

[stlbeer]

I'll bite!

Are you looking for a controller or a controller and a RIMS tube? I've done both and they both work very well.

Let me know.

Samples of my work:

Paul Murphy

 

[Carlyle]

Paul,

I brew beer, but I am not an engineer, nor an electrician. I need a panel to run electrical on a heater and keep the heat er at the right temp. I run propane burners to bring the water up to strike temp. Perhaps a simple Johnson controller that I have will keep the right temps I need.


My specialty is stirring the mash and boiling the wort. I just moved up to a double pump single tier after twenty + years of brewing and would like to have a tighter control on mash temps. I have no desire to automate just have stricter control on my temps.

 

[Carlyle]

Damn, I love the ordinance box though. That just goes hand in hand with what we do...

 

[stlbeer]

Paul,

I brew beer, but I am not an engineer, nor an electrician. I need a panel to run electrical on a heater and keep the heat er at the right temp. I run propane burners to bring the water up to strike temp. Perhaps a simple Johnson controller that I have will keep the right temps I need.


My specialty is stirring the mash and boiling the wort. I just moved up to a double pump single tier after twenty + years of brewing and would like to have a tighter control on mash temps. I have no desire to automate just have stricter control on my temps.

Well, there is no automation to my box other than keeping the temps maintained. After you mash in set the desired temp to be maintained. Then once your mash is set (about 10 min), you start the pump by flipping a switch. When the RIMS tube is full and wort is recirculating back into the tun, turn on the element with the flip of another switch. Temps will be maintained by the PID via the RIMS tube. When you're done with the mash turn off the element and pump. Move your pump output to your boil kettle and turn the pump back on to empty the tun. Add your sparge water to the tun, stir, etc then pump that into the kettle. It's pretty easy.

Clean up is easy as add'l unused sparge water can be pumped through the RIMS tube.

PM me if you are still interested.

The ordinance box is cool too. Makes the setup somewhat portable.

 

[dutch101st]

Clean up is easy as add'l unused sparge water can be pumped through the RIMS tube.

Thats what I do...then when I am done with the spent grain its HOT PWD to clean up. RIMS tube ends up nice and sparkly clean when I am done with brew day!

 

[klyph]

I'll bite!

Paul Murphy

I too am a member of the ammo can control box club.

 

[stlbeer]

I too am a member of the ammo can control box club.

These things are great!