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Sawdustguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Manorville, New York
Before I get flamed, I am not insinuating anyone reading this forum or post is a dummy. I have received a few PM's lately about a post I made in the not too distant past about RIMS heater assemblies and the way I approached it. I am not an expert but my assembly works. If anyone intends to build one of these contraptions maybe this thread will act as a resource and help you.

RIMS Circuit Diagram.jpg


***Prices as of 3/2009
RIMS Heater Parts List.jpg


Thermocouple and Element.jpg
 
How degrading... I feel insulted.

No, really, nice work

I like the diagram and the associated parts list. Nice work, keep it simple, I like that. I found that most of my inquiries are about how PIDs and SSRs work together and how to wire them up.

This is nice.
 
Nice post, and I agree.. Rims for Dummies.. Herms is definitely the way to go. :rockin:

Hehe... nice post and write up! If you could post the parts list as text or HTML, that would be helpful. Just so lazy people like me can copy/paste the URLs.
 
Here are some photos of the finished product. I made mine out of 2" 304 Stainless Steel Pipe but it can easily be made out of copper to decrease the cost. The clamps for mounting are Corvette Stainless Steel Exhaust clamps purchased on EBay. Please note that the 1/2" NPTF to 2" NPTM bushings were out of stock when I built my RIMS Heater assembly so I used two bushings. I checked today and the 1/2" NPTF to 2" NPTM bushings are back in stock.

RIMS1.jpg


RIMS2.jpg


RIMS3.jpg


RIMS4.jpg
 
Item #7 in your table shows 1200 watt, s/be 1500.. Of course I was one of the PITA people bothering you with pm's. Don't most heater elements have a zinc plating and is that of any concern health wise to us beer drinkers?

Thanks Guy !
 
Item #7 in your table shows 1200 watt, s/be 1500.. Of course I was one of the PITA people bothering you with pm's. Don't most heater elements have a zinc plating and is that of any concern health wise to us beer drinkers?

Thanks Guy !

These elements are for potable hot water heaters. I don't know if there is a zinc coating or not, but if there is, I doubt it would cause a health risk. The daily recommended dosage of Zinc is 15mg. It didn't take much more than that to plate that element and the coating will last for years.
 
What did all that stainless cost you? I make them out of copper for $50 or $60 in material. I can't imagine what the stainless would have cost!!

Linc
 
Consider me dumb as a stump.

Dang it, you guys are just going to get me in deeper and deeper, arent you?!? Not that I am complaining...

Great post!! I am going to get this project underway once I am in a house and not an apartment (October cannot get here soon enough!)
 
Any benefits/issues with rigging up two of these in-line for other use such as heating HLT or bringing wort up to boil temp faster?
 
I am sure you could do that. There are more powerful elements available from PlumbingSupply.com also.

Model......Volts......Watts......Density........Price
02853.......120.........1500.......Extra Low......$20.12
02463.......120.........1500.......Low.............$11.46
02143.......120.........1500.......High.............$7.86
02203.......120.........2000.......High.............$9.24
02163.......240.........1500.......High.............$7.97
02223.......240.........2000.......High.............$8.07
02243.......240.........2500.......High.............$9.22
02263.......240.........3000.......High.............$8.02
02283.......240.........3500.......High.............$8.09
02342.......240.........4500.......High.......... ...$6.73
02583.......240.........4500.......Low.......... ...$10.32
02953.......240.........4500.......Extra Low......$27.69
02363.......240.........5500.......High............$12.51
02933.......240.........5500.......Low.............$21.87
02963.......240.........5500.......Extra Low..... $26.92
02613.......240.........6000.......Low.............$22.82
 
what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?
 
what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?

I am looking at a Rheem element SP10868LH 120v 1440 Watt

Resistored Stainless Steel Heating Elements
Preferred Parts resistored stainless steel elements feature a low watt density design with an outer sheath of Incology® 800 to resist failure from “dry firing”. Built in resistor helps prolong anode life for greater tank protection and longer working life.


Costs more !
 
what happens if the element goes dry? Does it burn up? and if so, how do you prevent that from happening?

Mine is mounted vertically so the air is located above the end of the element. Just don't turn it on until you get liquid out of the top hose.
 
I have been accumulating parts for this build and one question comes to mind - how do you close off the end of the heater element to avoid electrocution? Seems like it would not be an off the shelf part.
 
Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.

After I took the pictures I attached the wires and dipped the end of the element in Liquid Electrical Tape. I was very careful and taped off the portions that I did not want covered and it doesn't look half bad. I also plan to put a lexan sheet over it for safety so nobody gets burned by touching it the heater. Safety is no accident.;)
 
Mine is very similar, but with a few differences:

Used Auber RTD instead of thermocouple: Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, NPT Thread [PT100-L50NPT] - $29.95 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Used 1 1/2" SS pipe from BFO: Stainless Steel Fittings

Used a 5400W 240V ULD element, but run it at 120V.

I covered the dangerous end of my element with a PVC cap.

Sawdustguy and bakins, thanks for the information...Just the websites to order the parts from is very helpful. :)

I just purchased the parts (mentioned above) to make a 1 1/2" RIMS heater. I went with the Auberins PID controller and RTD thermocouple for better accuracy. I also chose the ultra low density heating element made from SS nichrome (better resistance to burnout if operated dry).

water-heater-element-2853.jpg


RIMS.jpg
 
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