OK, here are some interesting (or are they?) shots.
First, the base of my cooler. Note the difference between intrusion into the cooler for the axle that runs the entire length of the back/bottom of the cooler versus the circular wheel housing intrusions on the left and right sides. Later closeups will be looking at the upper left corner of this image (the bottom/back/left of the cooler) with kegs in place.
Next, the top of the cooler. I'm just including this picture so that people can see the intrusions on the left and right side which, along with the natural curve of the lid, may cause clearance problems for your kegs. Be sure to measure by attaching your ball lock tops to make sure that both clear (aka, the lid should shut completely). Especially on the back/higher/floating keg.
Now, some details on the keg mods I needed to make. First, this picture shows the original keg skirt before removal of the extra protective ring next to a modified keg. This little bit of clearance makes a big difference, so if you can buy kegs w/o this ring you'll save yourself some really annoying cutting and filing. I used a simple work knife/blade with a large rough grain metal hand file.
Next, I show the standard gap between keg legs before modification and post modification. I took out about 1/2 of this particular leg to get the keg to fit and rotate appropriately into position. I was able to do all of this with a normal work knife as well (I recommend you cut the pieces off in 1 inch sections at a time and retest your fit; be sure to make sure you're cutting the appropriately leg so that your in and out ports are in the correct orientation).
Next, I took pictures of the difference between an appropriately seated and inappropriately seated modified keg. Again, note that the problem is NOT the large axle intrusion running the entire length of the back wall. It is the annoyingly tiny wheel housing intrusion that is keeping the keg floating higher than normal. Below are two pictures with the first showing a floating keg and the second showing a seated (modified/notched) keg. The extra 1-2 inches of clearance that you can get by cutting out a portion of the leg to avoid the wheel house (on the immediate left) and get flush with the long axle housing is required to get your lid shut with your ball locks in place.
Bad/Floating - Note that we're hung on the left wall, not the back axle where we still have some clearance.
Good/Flush - Now we're clearing the housing on the left with our modified keg leg and flush with the back axle.
Finally, the end result with the kegs modified and rotated appropriately. The fit is still very tight, but it does work correctly. Can't wait for those shanks to arrive now...