Double IPA Pliny the Elder Clone

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Bucket? Maybe lid is not on tight. Give it a day or 2 then check gravity.

I'm using a big mouth carboy from Northern Brewery. I open and reclosed the lid to make sure it's airtight. Forgot to mentioned, I'm not using a bubbler but a bung and rubber hole that is submerged in a glass of sanitized water.

Checked last night and still no bubbles. I will check the gravity this weekend.

Should i be worry?
 
How did brewing go?

Sorry I haven't been on here. Was in Texas for 2 weeks for a wedding.

Anyways, brewing went great. Hit all the numbers spot on. Holy mother of God. This is a lot of hops. I dry hopped last night, and also brewed a Jalepeno Cream Ale from here. I also kicked my last keg of Centennial Blonde. My pipe line is dry!
 
I'm using a big mouth carboy from Northern Brewery. I open and reclosed the lid to make sure it's airtight. Forgot to mentioned, I'm not using a bubbler but a bung and rubber hole that is submerged in a glass of sanitized water.

Checked last night and still no bubbles. I will check the gravity this weekend.

Should i be worry?

A blow off tube. Makes sense. That big mouth is see through right? Should have krausen layer, which would be a good sign. Unless your yeast was pitched at 150F pretty sure you fermented something. Post a picture and let us know how the sample went.
 
A blow off tube. Makes sense. That big mouth is see through right? Should have krausen layer, which would be a good sign. Unless your yeast was pitched at 150F pretty sure you fermented something. Post a picture and let us know how the sample went.

Yes blow off tube, sorry couldn't think of the name at the time. There was a pretty good layer of krausen (~2inches) during the 1st week. It's been a little over 1 week since brewed and the krausen has dissipated. There is still some tiny bubbles floating to the top in the carboy.

I looked last night and the beer has cleared up A LOT. Before it look like mud. I will take gravity soon and post a picture. I might also wait to do both when I drop hop next weekend.
 
Checked my gravity last night and it was 1.001 (OG was 1.061). I was going to wait 3 weeks before dryhopping but seeing how the gravity is so low I decided to dryhop after only 2 weeks in primiary. Planning on dryhopping for 1 week then bottle condition for 3-4 weeks.

20150720_184821.jpg
 
Dang, 1.001 is exceptionally low. It will be bone dry.

I was shocked it was at 1.001. Is it because my yeast was to active?

I used a Refractometer to measure my gravity. Original brix was 15 and last night it was at 6 so gravity should be around 1.001. I'll report back in a month on what it taste like. I pulled a sample last night and actaully it tasted pretty good. Not a lot of aroma, but I assume the dry hoping will fix that problem.
 
Just brewed a 2.5gal batch for a sample of the recipe. OG came in at 1.074 for a 80% effic with BIAB. Looking forward to this beer. Hoping to get a bottle to do a side by side.

Tweaked the recipe a little. The 200 IBU's was way too high. I toned it down to 130 IBU. I still need the enamel on my teeth!
 
Just brewed a 2.5gal batch for a sample of the recipe. OG came in at 1.074 for a 80% effic with BIAB. Looking forward to this beer. Hoping to get a bottle to do a side by side.

Tweaked the recipe a little. The 200 IBU's was way too high. I toned it down to 130 IBU. I still need the enamel on my teeth!

Those hops are there for a reason. Trust the recipe. I'd recommend doing original recipes 1st then tweaking. It is a bitter hop bomb at first, but after a few weeks becomes golden heaven.
 
I'd check with a hydrometer. No beer yeast attunuates 99.99%

Measured gravity last night with a hydrometer and gravity was at 1.012 after 3 weeks in fermentation. Going to bottle tonight.

If you measured at 6 brix your gravity is 1.023 or so. 0 brix would be 1.000.

You can't directly measuer the gravity with a refractometer after fermentation has started. You need to compare the original brix and final brix to get your adjusted gravity.
 
So am I understanding correctly that the primary fermentation is 14 days? And then transfer to secondary, add hops for dry hop and ferment another 14 days?
 
So am I understanding correctly that the primary fermentation is 14 days? And then transfer to secondary, add hops for dry hop and ferment another 14 days?

Remove primary/secondary fermentation from your brewing vocabulary unless fermenting with one strain then again with a second. Gone are the days of "secondary".

Ferment until gravity is reached which may be 7 to 14 days. With 001, mine usually reaches terminal gravity within 7 days. I leave it rest and clean-up for another 7 days, move the beer off the yeast (into a keg) and begin the dry hop process. I drop hop at room temperature for the first 7 days, then add the second dose of dry hops for an additional 7 days - 14 days total. Some go longer while others shorter.

I am the only one drinking my beer at home so 5 gallons lasts a while. With Pliny, and other hop forward beers, I separate my drop hopping by maybe a month since my brews last 2-3 months. The second round of drop hopping is somewhere near the mid-point of the keg. Think it of as 'refreshing' the aroma and flavor profile that would have otherwise waned over time.
 
Anyone know how accurate the original recipe for this is? I have yet to find the real stuff in stores and would love to give this a try for my next batch. Russian River Brewery states that the hops are Amarillo, Centennial, CTZ, and Simcoe. Anyone have a 5 gal AG recipe with these hops? Also, noticed everyone's batch is a dark amber color, isn't the original Pliny an orangish hue?
 
Well here's my calculations based on an extract utilization formula I found...GramsExtract=(IBU*hectoliters@End of boil)/(.35*10). Solved for IBU =(53), then added Warrior, in Beersmith 2, until IBU was achieved.

Used Beersmith2 with 62% efficiency at 5.8 gallons to fermenter with 90min boil. Don't see how the 70IBU in posted recipe sheet is possible with these amount of hops.

Other hops/grain bill were a simple calculation; 1300gallons/5.8gallons=224-factor so CTZ at 90min for example is 7*16/224=.5oz.

10.25gallons total.
5.75 strike

OG=1.072
IBU= 170
SRM=6.1
ABV=7.8%

Rahr = 17.1 lbs
c60 = 4.6oz (edit.. from lbs)
Corn Sugar = 14.4 oz

Warrior @ 90min = 1.1oz
CTZ @ 90min = .5oz

Amarillo @ 45min= .6oz

Simcoe @ 30min = 1.4oz

Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, Simcoe @ WPool for 20min = 1oz each

Dry Hopping (Wasn't sure the days so just have dry hopping at 5 days each)
Dry1:
Simcoe = 1.6oz
Cascade = 1.25oz
CTZ = .70oz

Dry2:
Simcoe = 1.4oz
Cascade= 1.0oz
Amarillo/CTZ = .5oz each

Anyone else??

Edit: added extract formula found and recalculated to End of Boil volume. Also this is about 14oz of hops, my other calculation, using a smaller factor, make it around 22oz, and the grain bill would be way high.
 
Well here's my calculations based on an extract utilization formula I found...GramsExtract=(IBU*hectoliters@End of boil)/(.35*10). Solved for IBU (53), then added Warrior until IBU was achieved.

Used Beersmith2 with 62% efficiency at 5.8 gallons to fermenter with 90min boil. Don't see how the 70IBU in posted recipe sheet is possible with these amount of hops.

Other hops/grain bill were a simple calculation; 1300gallons/5.8gallons=224-factor so CTZ at 90min for example is 7*16/224=.5oz.

OG=1.072
IBU= 170
SRM=6.1
ABV=7.8%

Rahr = 17.1 lbs
c60 = .48 lbs
Corn Sugar = 14.4 oz

Warrior @ 90min = 1.1oz
CTZ @ 90min = .5oz

Amarillo @ 45min= .6oz

Simcoe @ 30min = 1.4oz

Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, Simcoe @ WPool for 20min = 1oz each

Dry Hopping (Wasn't sure the days so just have dry hopping at 5 days each)
Dry1:
Simcoe = 1.6oz
Cascade = 1.25oz
CTZ = .70oz

Dry2:
Simcoe = 1.4oz
Cascade= 1.0oz
Amarillo/CTZ = .5oz each

Anyone else??

Edit: added extract formula found and recalculated to End of Boil volume. Also this is about 14oz of hops, my other calculation, using a smaller factor, make it around 22oz, and the grain bill would be way high.


Very interesting. Looks good though. If u drop your warrior a touch that may help?
 
I like FWH (simcoe/Amarillo) myself and tend to even hop usage up to 1oz increments anyway so slight changes will be made. Friends are heading out to Ca to pick up 20 bottles next month. Planning on brewing Thursday to be ready for side by side comparison.

What stands out to me is the 45min Amarillo and Cascade usage I've not seen in any PTE clone recipe...not that I've came across every one.
 
Anyone tried or heard of the Morebeer clone? A friend at work ordered the kit so I'm curious about it now. Supposed to be exact.
 
I have tried the Morebeer kit numerous times. Very good but compared to the real brew sheet, somewhat different.

PTE does not FWH, has Amarillo, has no CaraPils, and is mashed higher.

The PTE brewsheet is 2015 gallons (65 BBL * 31 gallons).
 
I have tried the Morebeer kit numerous times. Very good but compared to the real brew sheet, somewhat different.

PTE does not FWH, has Amarillo, has no CaraPils, and is mashed higher.

The PTE brewsheet is 2015 gallons (65 BBL * 31 gallons).

Saw that. Assumed 1300 was after boil. Running with the calculated recipe. Just got 8oz fresh hops to go with some I have.
 
Anyone care to dumb this down for me to make 10 gallons?
Thank you, :)

Making the 5.8 gallon version as I type. Beersmith will convert it if you're setup. Or you can multiply everything by 2 as my 5.8 will equal 5 in the end.

As a side note, discussed this recipe with LHBS yesterday. Big brewers are the same as small. They use what's on hand to get required results. So slight variations are always possible. This is just one of those variations I suspect.
 
Fermenting away at 61F. Used whirlfloc tablets for first time. Got 4.75gal of completely clear wort! Had about 1.25 left in kettle, but couldn't get myself to "dirty" it up with the 7oz hop ball at bottom of kettle. Have some ideas to solve the waste issue. Came out at 1.071. Another week for dry hop/FG measure.

Edit: My pre-boil gravity was higher then calculated so I dropped from 14.4oz to 4oz (thought it was 8oz, but finally looked at my brew sheet) corn sugar. Also had more wort at EOB as reason for slightly lower OG. And I always use FWH so did slight modifications myself. Need REAL Pliny to compare! 😜

View attachment 1440442058339.jpg
 
Remove primary/secondary fermentation from your brewing vocabulary unless fermenting with one strain then again with a second. Gone are the days of "secondary".

Ferment until gravity is reached which may be 7 to 14 days. With 001, mine usually reaches terminal gravity within 7 days. I leave it rest and clean-up for another 7 days, move the beer off the yeast (into a keg) and begin the dry hop process. I drop hop at room temperature for the first 7 days, then add the second dose of dry hops for an additional 7 days - 14 days total. Some go longer while others shorter.

I am the only one drinking my beer at home so 5 gallons lasts a while. With Pliny, and other hop forward beers, I separate my drop hopping by maybe a month since my brews last 2-3 months. The second round of drop hopping is somewhere near the mid-point of the keg. Think it of as 'refreshing' the aroma and flavor profile that would have otherwise waned over time.

Ultra, can you detail out your dry hop technique? Strainer type/pellet or leaf? Thanks!
 
PianoMan - until I clean-out the two More Beer Pliny kits in the freezer, I am using the pellet hops from the kit + Amarillo (pellets).

I did buy a can of hop extract and will use that moving forward for the bittering addition, about 10 ML. From then on, it will still be pellet but only for flavor and aroma, both in the kettle and dry hop.

For dry hopping, I use a Corny Keg Dry Hopper in the keg and 6" Hop Spider in the kettle - both are 300 micron and from Utah Bio Diesel Supply. Great company, awesome people, and outstanding craftsmanship.

www.utahbiodieselsupply.com

Pliny calls for two post-fermentation dry hop doses, 5 and 12 (or somewhere close to that) and is meant to be consumed fresh. As the only beer drinker in the house, I may split my dry hop into full keg and half keg. That way I freshen-up the flavor and aroma half-way through the keg. It makes sense in my head but haven't done it yet.
 
Ultra, on your corny keg hopper you tie a string I take it for retrieving? No issues with sealing?

Also, i have the same hop spider, but it seems the wort proteins clog it. I've wondered if all the oils are getting utilized. Sounds like you see no problem. Maybe I'm stressing over nothing.

Same you..i'm it for the IIPA drinkers. Got a RIS drinker here.
 
Ultra, on your corny keg hopper you tie a string I take it for retrieving? No issues with sealing?

Also, i have the same hop spider, but it seems the wort proteins clog it. I've wondered if all the oils are getting utilized. Sounds like you see no problem. Maybe I'm stressing over nothing.

Same you..i'm it for the IIPA drinkers. Got a RIS drinker here.

I have the same hopper, unwaxed plain dental floss works great, still get a seal.
 
Great question!

I too use dental floss with a small stainless worm clamp attached to the pressure relieve well on the keg lid.

After slowly dumping half a tank of gas, I found that the floss had worked it's way up into the pressure relieve diaphragm when purging O2.

I now have a small swath of voile material covering the relief valve to keep the floss from compromising the seal.
 
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