plastic cooler as mash tun -HBS vs hardware store

[IslandLizard]

I'd like to go back to getting clear wort to see if it's what's causing my hoppy beers to be less bright and defined since I started using the bag. I used to use a bazooka screen, but it left a lot of wort behind and I had really marginal efficiency.

I'd say oxidation is the first place to look to fix underwhelming hoppy beers. And yeah, a good place for possible causes and solutions is the LoDO forum.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I'd say oxidation is the first place to look to fix underwhelming hoppy beers. And yeah, a good place for possible causes and solutions is the LoDO forum.

I thought about that, but my processes are all the same except using a bag vs the bazooka screen. I follow very careful cold side oxidation prevention. I've never worried about hot side and I don't really plan to start. My beers from last year stayed very tasty for 4-5 weeks (never had one last longer), so I'm not too worried about oxidation. I made just the one change to my process and they just don't have the snap they used to.

 

[jrgtr42]

Thank you. I'm curious about the kind of tubing to get. It should be heat resistant but other than that can you just pick it up at the hardware store also? I guess the water heater supply line takes care of that problem. Just wondered if the tubing had to be food grade also.

I did the same thing as above, with a 48 qt rectangular cooler, I got a new spout from one of the HB shops online, and I got a length of copper pipe to make my manifold out of. (along with a handful of angles and such. I made sure it was rated for drinking water; I figure that's good enough for me. I used a Dremel with but-off disk for the slits, I just vourlauf about a gallon or so and I;m good. I use a quart size measuring cup, drain it out, pour gently on the top and I'm fine. I also don't care if I have crystal-clear wort coming out of the tun anyways; it'll hot-break out and get filtered when I pour through the strainer anyways when I transfer to the fermenter.

 

[IslandLizard]

I thought about that, but my processes are all the same except using a bag vs the bazooka screen. I follow very careful cold side oxidation prevention. I've never worried about hot side and I don't really plan to start. My beers from last year stayed very tasty for 4-5 weeks (never had one last longer), so I'm not too worried about oxidation. I made just the one change to my process and they just don't have the snap they used to.

The cold side is a lot easier to manage, we work under CO2 there.

You're saying since you started using the mash bag your hoppy beers lost their snap?
Did you get clearer wort with the bazooka tube than with the bag? That would surprise me.
Could the bag add to hot side aeration? The mesh being a factor, perhaps? Are you underletting? How about the headspace, is the surplus of the mesh bag stowed in there during the mash?

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

The cold side is a lot easier to manage, we work under CO2 there.

You're saying since you started using the mash bag your hoppy beers lost their snap?
Did you get clearer wort with the bazooka tube than with the bag? That would surprise me.
Could the bag add to hot side aeration? The mesh being a factor, perhaps? Are you underletting? How about the headspace, is the surplus of the mesh bag stowed in there during the mash?

Yep, since switching to the bag. With the bazooka I was doing a 2-3 quart vorlauf and the result was much clearer wort than I get with the bag (which is free of hulls but quite murky).

It could be a number of things...clear vs murky wort or HSA from the wort running back into the MLT when I raise the bag are the two most likely.

The mesh bag is wrapped over the sides of the cooler. I put a layer of foil over the top of the mash. I do not underlet. I tried it once and it was a big hassle...my burner doesn't really sit high enough to get the strike water to drain very well.

There is one other possibility. I used to always by small bags of hops so I was pretty much always using freshly opened hops. Now I buy in 1/2 and 1 lb bags and vacuum seal the left overs and store in the freezer. They smell great, but it's possible they're not as fresh.

 

[Kirkwooder]

The cooler type mash tuns in the homebrew stores or online are exactly the same ones you find in the hardware stores.

Most LHBS sell the 10 gallon round ones. I prefer the rectangular ones, easier to stir, IMO. It takes only a a little handiness to mount the bulkhead, and check the seal for no leaks. You may save quite some $$ in the process.

Most cooler are made from food grade materials, so they are perfectly fine for use as a mash tun.

Stainless mash tuns need to be well insulated. Plastic coolers are fine as is, but in cold weather benefit from a blanket or sleeping bag cover.

Whether you need another 'HLT' cooler to store hot water depends on your process, I use a spare SS kettle, and heat my sparge water ~20' before the mash is done. I don't fly sparge, just batch sparge 2x with equal volumes. Easy peasy.

Here's the inside of my 52 qt Coleman Extreme mash tun, manifold is shown upside down:

View attachment 614103 View attachment 614104

Do you pull any of this apart to clean it or do you find it doesn't need it? And do you have any idea why there is the closed rectangle section just in front of the bulkhead, instead of flowing right to the bulkhead fitting? I need to upgrade my cooler and would like to do something like this in copper, and I like the look of your set up.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[IslandLizard]

Do you pull any of this apart to clean it or do you find it doesn't need it? And do you have any idea why there is the closed rectangle section just in front of the bulkhead, instead of flowing right to the bulkhead fitting? I need to upgrade my cooler and would like to do something like this in copper, and I like the look of your set up.

Thanks for sharing!

When emptying the mash tun by scooping, the manifold tends to separate, and falls apart when inverting the tun. I rinse the pieces out while cleaning/rinsing the inside of the tun, but do no brushing on the inside more than maybe once a year, if that.

The closed rectangle section happened unintentional because of the smaller surface area being covered compared to the larger version I copied from. That design had slits in the short connection tubes in that area, IIRC. I can't seem to locate the pictures or the thread (or blog?) I got the design from, to verify.

That closed section as it turned out bugged me a bit too, but I never noticed any lauter problems. Now I batch sparge so manifold geometry isn't all that important, as long as it drains. And it drains very well, there's a solid 1/2" hose wide stream at full valve opening. I can drain 70-80% in under 2 minutes if I want. I reckon I could add some slits in those short exposed tubes between the T-fittings in that area.

The reason the main 4-channel section doesn't directly connect to the bulkhead is that there is no space to fit the bulkhead T-fitting in that section on the left. Hence the (extra) 2nd bridge closer to the bulkhead.

 

[Kirkwooder]

Thanks, I'll be building something very similar.

 

[Dog House Brew]

Jmo, a cooler is a cooler is a cooler, no need to overthink it imo.

I linked below a super simple cheap MT that works great! Perhaps you already have a cooler you could repurpose.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/ten-minute-cooler-mash-tun-conversion.125108/

This^^^ If I were beginning, BIAB would be a no brainer IMO b

 

[toxdoc49]

When emptying the mash tun by scooping, the manifold tends to separate, and falls apart when inverting the tun. I rinse the pieces out while cleaning/rinsing the inside of the tun, but do no brushing on the inside more than maybe once a year, if that.

The closed rectangle section happened unintentional because of the smaller surface area being covered compared to the larger version I copied from. That design had slits in the short connection tubes in that area, IIRC. I can't seem to locate the pictures or the thread (or blog?) I got the design from, to verify.

That closed section as it turned out bugged me a bit too, but I never noticed any lauter problems. Now I batch sparge so manifold geometry isn't all that important, as long as it drains. And it drains very well, there's a solid 1/2" hose wide stream at full valve opening. I can drain 70-80% in under 2 minutes if I want. I reckon I could add some slits in those short exposed tubes between the T-fittings in that area.

The reason the main 4-channel section doesn't directly connect to the bulkhead is that there is no space to fit the bulkhead T-fitting in that section on the left. Hence the (extra) 2nd bridge closer to the bulkhead.

After this discussion, I was curious about the 'false bottom' setup. I thought originally that the stainless steel false bottoms from HBS stores were good; then I saw the setup of IslandLizard which was graciously shared; now I run across several DIY setups that use those steel mesh supply lines, where you remove the inner plastic tubing and there is your screen. I ask because can one get a decent filtration and flow from using one of these as the 'false bottom?' it seems simple enough to set up, but I don't know if anyone has used this and would recommend for or against. Thanks

 

[kh54s10]

After this discussion, I was curious about the 'false bottom' setup. I thought originally that the stainless steel false bottoms from HBS stores were good; then I saw the setup of IslandLizard which was graciously shared; now I run across several DIY setups that use those steel mesh supply lines, where you remove the inner plastic tubing and there is your screen. I ask because can one get a decent filtration and flow from using one of these as the 'false bottom?' it seems simple enough to set up, but I don't know if anyone has used this and would recommend for or against. Thanks

I use one made from a water heater supply line. It is bigger in diameter than toilet or sink lines and much heavier. I have never had a stuck sparge and can bash it all I want with the mash paddle and not damage it. Smaller ones can collapse.

But it is only good if you are going to batch sparge. If you want to fly sparge you need a false bottom of manifold to prevent channeling. That is when the sparge water takes a more or less direct line to the outlet leaving most of the grain unwashed.

 

[IslandLizard]

After this discussion, I was curious about the 'false bottom' setup. I thought originally that the stainless steel false bottoms from HBS stores were good; then I saw the setup of IslandLizard which was graciously shared; now I run across several DIY setups that use those steel mesh supply lines, where you remove the inner plastic tubing and there is your screen. I ask because can one get a decent filtration and flow from using one of these as the 'false bottom?' it seems simple enough to set up, but I don't know if anyone has used this and would recommend for or against. Thanks

Yes, those stainless braids are fine to use for mash filters. The thicker, beefier material, the better they'll withstand the weight of the wet grist above and the unintentional but unavoidable hits from the mash paddle.

 

[kh54s10]

I see the pictures where people make a circle using a t fitting using sink supply lines and wonder why. There seems no reason to go wimpy. And no reason to circle the bottom of the tun.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I see the pictures where people make a circle using a t fitting using sink supply lines and wonder why. There seems no reason to go wimpy. And no reason to circle the bottom of the tun.

Agreed...Denny claims not much difference b/w using a stubby 6” length of braid vs a longer and more complex arrangement.

Fluid dynamics supports that most of the fluid enters near the bulkhead anyway, being the path of least resistance.

Same holds true for manifolds to some extent. Never been a fan of manifolds in rectangular coolers, imo typical grain bed depths are too shallow for fly sparging anyhow, but they make a nice picture and likely give satisfaction to the builder...

Ime a braid and batch sparging is so simple to execute and works so well, no need to look further...opinions vary of course.

Watch out for the fake plastic braids that some big box stores sell, they actually look like stainless but don’t work well at all. Stainless braid is very fine wire, the plastic is much coarser.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/imposter-plastic-braids.122648/