PID help please

[Yambor44]

The false bottom is above the heating element which is the purpose of it, to keep the bag from being sucked onto and around it as well as the drain.

I am setting up to do another brew. I will check the cycle time and see what it is set at. I have a feeling that the FB is part of the challenge. As soon as the element would turn off the boil would cease immediately. Probably the FB trapping the heat under it?

 

[P-J]

... I have a SS pizza pan I fashioned with 4" legs to keep the bag off the element and out of the drain while recirculating.

The false bottom is above the heating element which is the purpose of it, to keep the bag from being sucked onto and around it as well as the drain.

I am setting up to do another brew. I will check the cycle time and see what it is set at. I have a feeling that the FB is part of the challenge. As soon as the element would turn off the boil would cease immediately. Probably the FB trapping the heat under it?

I also think the problem is related to your false bottom. I suggest that you change it to one that is an open screen so that the fluid can pass through it.

 

[Yambor44]

I also think the problem is related to your false bottom. I suggest that you change it to one that is an open screen so that the fluid can pass through it.

Thanks Paul. Good to hear from you! I am currently about 10 minutes left in my recirculated mash. I will remove the FB this time and see how it rolls.

 

[Yambor44]

Remembered to take it out this time!

 

[Yambor44]

Well, pretty much doing the same thing. I know this sounds crazy, but before, when I set it to 65-70% on manual, I would get a slower, constant boil - like you were dialing it down on an electric stovetop. Now its basting vigorously when the element fires and nothing when it turns off.

I have to believe there is a setting off. I looked at the "t" (cycle) setting and it was set to 24. When i lowered it to 2 (per the instructions default) my PV reading shot up to 580 something and was acting weird and the element shut off. I reset it to 24 and it went back to normal.

I have a call into Auber (from yesterday) hopefully he will call me back tomorrow.

EDIT - should I change my output H from 100 to 70?

 

[Yambor44]

This shows what I am talking about. Before, there was no stall. Straight boiling...

 

[Yambor44]

Got home early enough today to set up and give Suyi a call at Aubern Ins. we emailed back and forth and he wanted me to call him so we could go over the settings. Turns out AT changed things around enough to cause my on again off again boil issue. He helped me change some settings around so that the on again off again was quick enough that I don't lose the boil.

 

[jeffmeh]

Yambor, I'm wondering if you remember what you changed, and could possibly help over at this thread. Thanks. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/more-boil-control-443558/

 

[JEnglish]

Got home early enough today to set up and give Suyi a call at Aubern Ins. we emailed back and forth and he wanted me to call him so we could go over the settings. Turns out AT changed things around enough to cause my on again off again boil issue. He helped me change some settings around so that the on again off again was quick enough that I don't lose the boil.

I was having this same problem. The person I talked to at Arber told me that they have been having problems with the SYL 2352's. Are you able to set the cycle time (T) to less than 3 now?

 

[Yambor44]

Here are my settings i changed. I ran a trial with 7 gallons of water in the kettle and it worked as my video showed. The AT knocked it out of whack for the boil.

At needs to be 3 after you run AT.
P=300
d= 37 (we didn't change that one)
t=2 (mine was at 24)
Also, Sn is at 21 that he had me change a while back if that makes a difference.

Rob