Optimum Wyeast 1318 London Ale III Fermentation Temp for NEIPA?

[samandbekah]

Some yeasts you need to get really cold before they flocc others will drop with just a soft crash. Yes if you don’t have a way to maintain some sort of positive pressure O2 pickup is a real concern.

This is my procedure, I don’t have a unitank just some SS Chronicals. Put the pressure transfer piece on with say 1 Plato to go. It releases pressure above 2psi I think so it doesn’t really carbonate but it helps a little and helps maintain some pressure without having to use external CO2. Let it sit for a few days after TG then slowly bring down temps over a period of say 6-8hr or longer, depending on yeast strain and temp while maintaining positive pressure. Leave for say 24 hours, dump as much yeast as possible, once maybe twice. Let beer warm back up to around 60, attach Co2 to sample valve, bubble Co2 through beer to create Co2 environment, remove pressure transfer valve from top, drop in hops (that are crushed as much as possible) and re-attach transfer valve. Let sit at 60ish for 4 days or until Aroma is where u want. I will resuspend hops with C02 through the racking port a few times. Ideally then crash to as low as you can while again maintaining positive pressure, let sit for a few days to let as much Hop matter settle as possible and force transfer to a very well purged keg.

Awesome defined Hop character that lasts a long time.

One more question... When you say the hops should be crushed as much as possible... Are you just using pellet hops or are you taking pellet hops and putting them through a food processor and then into your fermenter for the dry hop?

 

[couchsending]

What kind of hardware are you using/attaching to the sample port to create the CO2 environment? I have the same fermenters as you. How are you accomplishing this without getting beer in your CO2 line? Cranking the PSI way up to compensate for the downward force from the beer?

It doesn’t take much Co2... honestly I don’t remember maybe 10 PsI max.

I don’t use a dedicated Co2 line. I just use some random tubing I have that fits on the sample port with a little force (I have to go look up the ID of the tubing, don’t know it off the top of my head).

I have a dedicated Co2 tank with two regulators that I leave next to my conicals. One line goes to a manifold that has three separate lines with a pressure transfer fitting for each conical. The other line has just a regular ball lock gas disconnect that I’ll use for purging kegs before transfer.

If I’m trying to create a positive Co2 environment through the sample arm I’ll just disconnect the line with the ball lock and add the line that fits over the sample valve. Crank it up and slip in on while pushing Co2 through it. Sure I’ll get a little beer in the line but not much. The downward force of the liquid isn’t that strong. I don’t really do this any more as It didn’t really prove to be necessary.

I will however resuspend the hops with Co2. I just use the same line is use for transferring to a keg. It has a TC fitting on one end. Just hook it up to Co2, turn it on while connecting to Conical and open the valve on the racking arm. The PRV on the transfer fitting releases at 3-5 PSI so if you crank it to 10 it doesn’t really matter, you’re not going to damage anything.

 

[couchsending]

One more question... When you say the hops should be crushed as much as possible... Are you just using pellet hops or are you taking pellet hops and putting them through a food processor and then into your fermenter for the dry hop?

God no.. I just put them in a heavy duty bag and hit them with a hammer for a while to crush them up some. The really high oil content hops that are pelletized with low heat will crumble real easily. Others might not.

I’ve actually started preheating the dry hops as well. I’ll weigh out my dry hop quantity, put them in a vacuum bag, seal them, then submerge them in 120* water for a while.

 

[samandbekah]

It doesn’t take much Co2... honestly I don’t remember maybe 10 PsI max.

I don’t use a dedicated Co2 line. I just use some random tubing I have that fits on the sample port with a little force (I have to go look up the ID of the tubing, don’t know it off the top of my head).

I have a dedicated Co2 tank with two regulators that I leave next to my conicals. One line goes to a manifold that has three separate lines with a pressure transfer fitting for each conical. The other line has just a regular ball lock gas disconnect that I’ll use for purging kegs before transfer.

If I’m trying to create a positive Co2 environment through the sample arm I’ll just disconnect the line with the ball lock and add the line that fits over the sample valve. Crank it up and slip in on while pushing Co2 through it. Sure I’ll get a little beer in the line but not much. The downward force of the liquid isn’t that strong. I don’t really do this any more as It didn’t really prove to be necessary.

I will however resuspend the hops with Co2. I just use the same line is use for transferring to a keg. It has a TC fitting on one end. Just hook it up to Co2, turn it on while connecting to Conical and open the valve on the racking arm. The PRV on the transfer fitting releases at 3-5 PSI so if you crank it to 10 it doesn’t really matter, you’re not going to damage anything.

Thanks - I have some spare tubing lying around, I'll have to try that as well. I just finished dropping some yeast out (second time now but I used WYEAST 1968 on this last batch and it is SUPER thick, almost like peanut butter whenever I dump it) and I'm on my second dry hop... Definitely want to try this approach to rouse the hops and get more extraction from the oils...

God no.. I just put them in a heavy duty bag and hit them with a hammer for a while to crush them up some. The really high oil content hops that are pelletized with low heat will crumble real easily. Others might not.

I’ve actually started preheating the dry hops as well. I’ll weigh out my dry hop quantity, put them in a vacuum bag, seal them, then submerge them in 120* water for a while.

Interesting - never heard of that concept before - what is point of warming them up only to drop them into your beer at half that temp? So have you had better results with aroma from crushing them first instead of letting the pellets dissolve?

 

[couchsending]

Interesting - never heard of that concept before - what is point of warming them up only to drop them into your beer at half that temp? So have you had better results with aroma from crushing them first instead of letting the pellets dissolve?

It’s something I haven’t exactly heard of either, just been experimenting with it. To me it makes more sense than dropping pellets in the fermenter straight out of the freezer. I put them in 120* water, the pellets are pretty darn cold so they probably just heat up to just above room temp.

 

[Tyler Hurst]

Sooo since we are on the topic of 1318 fermenting temps.
I am making a new NEIPA and made a starter. I put it on my stir plate in my swamp cooler with a heat wrap in the cooler which is connected to a thermostat. I set the thermostat to 64 and left the top slightly open to vent in my basement with PA winter ambient temp of 52 degrees. Only problem is, I accidentally left the probe outside of the cooler. Came home and the cooler and starter temp was well over 108 degrees (the thermostats highest readout) The Erlenmeyer flask was almost too hot to touch. Should I just throw the yeast out? I removed the heat wrap, took it off the stir plate and am just seeing if it is going to have any airlock activity. I have another package of 1318 for BD this weekend but, if it starts taking off is there any harm in decanting the wort (filled with esters) and throwing these shocked yeasties into my brew?

 

[isomerization]

Sooo since we are on the topic of 1318 fermenting temps.
I am making a new NEIPA and made a starter. I put it on my stir plate in my swamp cooler with a heat wrap in the cooler which is connected to a thermostat. I set the thermostat to 64 and left the top slightly open to vent in my basement with PA winter ambient temp of 52 degrees. Only problem is, I accidentally left the probe outside of the cooler. Came home and the cooler and starter temp was well over 108 degrees (the thermostats highest readout) The Erlenmeyer flask was almost too hot to touch. Should I just throw the yeast out? I removed the heat wrap, took it off the stir plate and am just seeing if it is going to have any airlock activity. I have another package of 1318 for BD this weekend but, if it starts taking off is there any harm in decanting the wort (filled with esters) and throwing these shocked yeasties into my brew?

Too hot to touch sounds like your approaching upper limit of most yeast (I believe around 40C?).

If you want to risk it, I’d take a portion of the current starter and propagate in a new batch of wort. You’ll know if your yeast is viable that way.