New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Hannabrew said:
Slightly off subject but since it's been discussed in this thread and the other thread is more or less dead, for those doing closed transfers with fermonsters modded to have floating dip tubes, are you not running into flow issues? I'm about ready to go back to a spigot as I've had too many instances where I have to mess with it a bunch to get it to work right which defeats the purpose

for starters it takes a lot more pressure than I would expect to get the initial flow going. If there is even the slightest bit of a leak in the weldless fittings in the lid It can be a problem.

Secondly, after all the dry hopping the dip tube is sure to be clogged so I always blow gas through the liquid post a couple times during the crashing process.

Even with that, I've had issues getting the flow to start. Other times it will work great until I get to the last gallon at which point it stops. I've cut the tubing to try to make it so the dip tube won't go much lower than the gallon mark... Perhaps I just need to cut it more and just tilt the fermenter to get the remainder?

I just got done racking a beer that completely stopped no matter what I did. I eventually gave up and scrapped the last gallon above the trub and yet when I took the lid off and ran water through the post it came right out the dip tube so I have no idea what was stopping it from flowing. I could see the dip tube in the beer and it was not directly sucking up trub and when I blew gas through it it bubbled.

I hate losing beer so I dumped the remainder of semi-clear beer into a gallon mason jar and will wait for it to settle out before decanting it into PET to force carb and drink quickly but this sucks
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Are you using gravity to your advantage and are you making sure your keg is not at all pressurized or equalized the pressure as you’re transferring by letting the co2 out
 
cheesebach said:
I don’t necessarily disagree, but I’m curious what issues you have seen when spunding with this style? It’s not clear to me how A & B in the second part of your post relate to spunding.

For me, I haven’t used spunding the last few times I’ve brewed this style, but it’s mostly out of laziness. The only way I’ve found to get dry hops in post-fermentation with spunding is to add an extra transfer to a secondary keg for the post-fermentation dry hop. You could also add sugar to carbonate after the dry hop, but then you’re defeating the purpose of the cold crash to drop the yeast.

Next time I have the time/desire to clean 5 kegs for one batch of beer, I may try a split batch to compare spunded vs force carbonated for this style to see whether I notice a difference.
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Well yes I suppose if you're doing another transfer after spunding my two issues don't apply as you can drop the yeast and dry hop post fermentation however for me one of the major points of spunding is limiting oxygen to a minimum and opening the keg post fermentation and or transferring again post fermentation defeats that purpose
 
Dgallo said:
Are you using gravity to your advantage and are you making sure your keg is not at all pressurized or equalized the pressure as you’re transferring by letting the co2 out
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Good thoughts but yes I am using gravity to my advantage as much as possible and I am making sure The keg has nearly no pressure (enough to see the lid)
 
Hannabrew said:
Good thoughts but yes I am using gravity to my advantage as much as possible and I am making sure The keg has nearly no pressure (enough to see the lid)
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Gotcha. Also, when you’re transferring are you periodically pulling your pressure release valve so air volume can be replaced with liquid Volume? if not the liquid will not be able to enter the keg. So If that was redundant but a buddy of mine for got to do that on his first attemp doing the closed transfer.


That being said, I have my fermonster set up like you do and when I transfer I place my fermenter up a good 4ft of the ground on the counter and run it straight down to my keg. I transfer at about 8-10 psi. It still takes sometime to fill the keg, maybe 5 minutes or so. I also alway book it up to an empty keg first for a quick second to push anything that was trapped in the dip tube out. I haven’t run into any genuine problems as of yet though
 
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isomerization said:
So it may be impossible to really nail down usage specific outcomes. Mosaic seems like one of the “easiest” to do this with (maybe because of its diverse profile?) and yet there are still variable outcomes.
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There is a paper by Shellhamer that test a bunch of hops (of course doesnt account for lot differemnces) that showed Mosaic shows up the same regardless of whirlpool or dryhop. I use this to inform my wp/dh for the ones shown that I use and vary each according to what I am trying to accomplish
 
image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Dgallo said:
This is the typical fermentation drive I use for Conan based strains. I slightly underpitch and do a 1L starter or less based on mf date 18-24 hours prior to brew day. not specifically to boost the cell count but to insure the yeast is active at the pitch. I pitch at 68*f and let it free rise 70-72 for the first day or two. Once it starts it’s most active fermentation, usually the tailend of day two/day three, I drive it to 74-76*f depending on the specific yeast. 1318 I try not to go over 74/75. With imperial a24 It really produces esters at 76. I will hold it there until visual fermentation is over and then it slowly drop back to 70-72 and will hold it there for 48-72 hours after hitting fg to clean up any vdk or acetaldehyde.

We all know that stressing the yeast cause them to produce esters. Though I don’t have true scientific evidence why this specific drive works, my impression is that by repeatedly changing the temperature of the yeast’s environment, they must constantly adjust to the changes which causes them to be under constant stress
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Alright @Dgallo I am putting my faith in you here. I just brewed a NZ Neipa with Nelson, Motueka, Rakau, Wai-iti and plan to use A24 and this ferm schedule. I will report back.
 
ttuato said:
Alright @Dgallo I am putting my faith in you here. I just brewed a NZ Neipa with Nelson, Motueka, Rakau, Wai-iti and plan to use A24 and this ferm schedule. I will report back.
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you won’t be disappointed! Just keep in mind over 76 or it can throw some fusel
 
Does that study actually locate a Galaxy DH close to "catty and sweaty?"

If so. . toss that in the trash.
 
flintoid said:
Does that study actually locate a Galaxy DH close to "catty and sweaty?"

If so. . toss that in the trash.
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That’s a bold statement. If Shellhammer has his name on it, it’s genuinely back by evidence.I do recall getting rotten fruit / bo in the galaxy around 2016 so it makes sense to me at least. Again that’s 4 harvests ago now and could even be 5 depending on the year of hops they studied.
 
Dgallo said:
That’s a bold statement. If Shellhammer has his name on it, it’s genuinely back by evidence.I do recall getting rotten fruit / bo in the galaxy around 2016 so it makes sense to me at least. Again that’s 4 harvests ago now and could even be 5 depending on the year of hops they studied.
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That's a solid point. Could be a crap bag. I've been brewing with it for only 2 years so I'd hope it was a harvest / batch thing.

And along that same point... If batches vary that much... Wouldn't this put these results into the same uncertainty? I'm sure they still trend similarly due to the nature of being somewhat consistent. But the batch would have to land similarly on the plot to taste characteristics to be even remotely compared to this data set.
 
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ttuato said:
https://www.craftbrewersconference....hopping-Beer-Achieving-Consistent-Flavor1.pdf
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Wow, lots to unpack from that study. Could you help me/us understand the aroma study? I think I am getting it, but want to confirm. Seems like page 18 is the key.

Take Simcoe. Does the chart indicate that in DH it's somewhere between floral and fruity for aroma. But what is it saying about the WP? Little to no aroma contributed?

For Citra, is it saying that in the WP the aroma is fruity, and in the DH it moves toward citrus & tropical? (What is OHAI?). The arrows indicate that Citra gives off more aroma in the DH, correct?

For Mosaic, it contributes the same aroma in either the WP or DH, but more aroma from DH. Is this correct?

Love to see a flavor study too!
 
Alright NEIPA experts, I am going to apologize in advance for my laziness. Over the last few months I have noticed a lot of chatter about kettle additions vs. biotransformation, early-fermentation dryhopping. Unfortunately, I was not paying close enough attention. Was a general consensus ever reached on whether kettle additions or active fermentation additions conferred more advantages? Or is this still as hotly debated as ever?
 
BrewCityBaller said:
Alright NEIPA experts, I am going to apologize in advance for my laziness. Over the last few months I have noticed a lot of chatter about kettle additions vs. biotransformation, early-fermentation dryhopping. Unfortunately, I was not paying close enough attention. Was a general consensus ever reached on whether kettle additions or active fermentation additions conferred more advantages? Or is this still as hotly debated as ever?
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My two cents: It's not kettle vs. dry hop... There has to be some hop additions in the post-boil whirlpool. Now, how much, what kinds, and at what temps is up for discussion -- and also whether to add any to the boil at all (consensus seems to be that at least some small amount should be in the boil).

I would say that at least on this forum, it seems like a lot of folks are moving away from the early dry hopping during active fermentation, feeling like the settling yeast is stripping out the good hop flavor. It also seems like a lot of the breweries are skipping that step too, and their beers are turning out great.

There IS still a debate about how much hops to use hot-side vs cold-side, and perhaps there will always be... And there are those who feel like dry hopping is the single most important thing for this style, though they likely still do some hot-side additions. But they are probably saving the really "good/expensive" hops for the dry hop.

I currently believe that both the whirlpool and the dry hop additions are equally important. I have also moved to the opinion that dry hopping during active fermentation probably has more negatives than positives, at least for basic homebrewing systems.
 
SRJHops said:
My two cents: It's not kettle vs. dry hop... There has to be some hop additions in the post-boil whirlpool. Now, how much, what kinds, and at what temps is up for discussion -- and also whether to add any to the boil at all (consensus seems to be that at least some small amount should be in the boil).

I would say that at least on this forum, it seems like a lot of folks are moving away from the early dry hopping during active fermentation, feeling like the settling yeast is stripping out the good hop flavor. It also seems like a lot of the breweries are skipping that step too, and their beers are turning out great.

There IS still a debate about how much hops to use hot-side vs cold-side, and perhaps there will always be... And there are those who feel like dry hopping is the single most important thing for this style, though they likely still do some hot-side additions. But they are probably saving the really "good/expensive" hops for the dry hop.

I currently believe that both the whirlpool and the dry hop additions are equally important. I have also moved to the opinion that dry hopping during active fermentation probably has more negatives than positives, at least for basic homebrewing systems.
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Thank you for the Reader's Digest version of the last few months! That certainly helps clear things up for me. The hard part for me will be figuring out how to add dryhops without introducing O2. I'll have to work on that...
 
BrewCityBaller said:
Thank you for the Reader's Digest version of the last few months! That certainly helps clear things up for me. The hard part for me will be figuring out how to add dryhops without introducing O2. I'll have to work on that...
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I use a nifty little can of gas called Wine Preserver. Under $10 and good for multiple batches. Seems to do the trick!
 
nick sekerak said:
Ok thanks at the LHBS now. Using Nelson and Vic secret so maybe I’ll go with horindal
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as a quick reference point. I pitch Hornindal at 1 table spoon of slurry for 6 gallons in the FV and fermenter between 90-95. Esters overpower the hop flavors in my opinion so I’m going to up the pitch rate and drop the temp to the 80s moving forward
 
What cell count you think that would equal

I was thinking of pitching 100 billion into 8 gal

right now the pack I bought has about 43 billion cell viability it is from 8/9/19 kinda old
 
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nick sekerak said:
What cell count you think that would equal

I was thinking of pitching 100 billion into 8 gal

right now the pack I bought has about 43 billion cell viability it is from 8/9/19 kinda old
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Omega targets 100 billion cells in 100ml of pitch pack. If we use those numbers and assume a pack is as fresh as possible to calculate, it would be an estimated pitch rate of 16/17 billion cells.

Since your estimated cell count is roughly 50% viable, you would have the use 2 tablespoons to achieve the roughly the same pitch rate.

Here’s the math. There are about 15 ml in a table spoon and roughly 6.5 table spoons in a 100ml pitch pack. So if you divide the total number of Viable cells by 6.5 you will be able to estimate the pitch size for 1 tablespoon.
 
Dgallo said:
Omega targets 100 billion cells in 100ml of pitch pack. If we use those numbers and assume a pack is as fresh as possible to calculate, it would be an estimated pitch rate of 16/17 billion cells.

Since your estimated cell count is roughly 50% viable, you would have the use 2 tablespoons to achieve the roughly the same pitch rate.

Here’s the math. There are about 15 ml in a table spoon and roughly 6.5 table spoons in a 100ml pitch pack. So if you divide the total number of Viable cells by 6.5 you will be able to estimate the pitch size for 1 tablespoon.
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that is so helpful thank you so much. I never would have figured that one out!!! You da man

cheers
 
Kveik NEIPA
This is my first test batch with this amazing yeast.
I haven't made two comparative batch with english yeast yet, but hey its in five days it comes out a delicious NEIPA.
60% pils
12% munich malt
18% oat flocs
10% wheat malt

25 ibu Columbus 30 min
5 ibu Centennial 5 min
90 g IDaho7 Hopstand

Hothead Ale yeast

Dryhop1:
50g citra
30 g Centenniall

Keghop:
50g Simcoe
50g ekuanot

Thank you everyone.


20191027_075929.jpg
 
Found some 2019 South African hops. Seem to smell better than the ones I got last year, let’s hope.

Rhar 2 Row
6% Carafoam
2% Carahell
Acidulated
145/154/162/172

1.064
Wlp072

Bittering with warrior for 20 IBUs
3oz Southern Passion at 5
4oz of Citra Leaf in hopback
5oz Southern Passion DH
2oz African Queen DH
1oz Strata DH

This yeast is fast and floccs super hard. Gonna try dry hopping this at warmer temps which I haven’t done in a while. Don’t need to really soft crash this yeast due to its flocculation.
 
couchsending said:
Found some 2019 South African hops. Seem to smell better than the ones I got last year, let’s hope.

Rhar 2 Row
6% Carafoam
2% Carahell
Acidulated
145/154/162/172

1.064
Wlp072

Bittering with warrior for 20 IBUs
3oz Southern Passion at 5
4oz of Citra Leaf in hopback
5oz Southern Passion DH
2oz African Queen DH
1oz Strata DH

This yeast is fast and floccs super hard. Gonna try dry hopping this at warmer temps which I haven’t done in a while. Don’t need to really soft crash this yeast due to its flocculation.
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How long are you mashing at each temp?
 
mjjunior10 said:
Kveik NEIPA
This is my first test batch with this amazing yeast.
I haven't made two comparative batch with english yeast yet, but hey its in five days it comes out a delicious NEIPA.
60% pils
12% munich malt
18% oat flocs
10% wheat malt

25 ibu Columbus 30 min
5 ibu Centennial 5 min
90 g IDaho7 Hopstand

Hothead Ale yeast

Dryhop1:
50g citra
30 g Centenniall

Keghop:
50g Simcoe
50g ekuanot

Thank you everyone.


View attachment 650043
Click to expand...

I plan to use this yeast on my next batch too. Around what days did you add your DH and keg hop?
 
mjjunior10 said:
It ferment out in about 24 hours.. DH at day 2 and keghop at day 4.
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wow that’s super fast! What temp did you ferm at? I’m thinking about pitching at 95* and then wrapping in my sleeping bag and placing in the garage where it’s prob around 80* ambient. Also, did you crash before any of the dry hopping?
 
cpham574 said:
wow that’s super fast! What temp did you ferm at? I’m thinking about pitching at 95* and then wrapping in my sleeping bag and placing in the garage where it’s prob around 80* ambient. Also, did you crash before any of the dry hopping?
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I pitched at 32 *celsius and forgot it., warm climate im my local, room temperature around 28* celsius. After 24 hours I dryhopped and place bucket into refrigerator and set temp to 18°c.
At day 3, I kegged, then the hops and cold crashed. Day 4 burst carb around 40 psi.
 

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