New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[leesmith]

I have had a beer that was dry hopped plug during transfer. The floating diptube line was folded double so it did not let any beer through at all.
I had to open it and replace the whole line which was not an easy task as its a royal pain in the butt to slip the silicon tubing over the diptube.

It took me a good 5 minutes of fiddling around.
I was sure my beer would be destroyed as it had alot of dry hops in it already and also fermented out and crashed at this point.
I had the co2 running the whole time during this process and purged the headspace.
As I was replacing the silicon tubing my hands splashed into the beer several times.
I proceeded transferring the beer hoping for the best.
Suprisingly the beer ended up great with 0 signs of oxidation. Drank it in a month.
Im quiet surprised I didnt get ANY DO problems!

These type of issues are why using a bag really should be a consideration.

Yes...I know. Utilization....all that.

It’s possible to get the same (if not better or sometimes not) flavor and aroma as commercial IPAs.

So the results CAN be the same. And the hassles of clogged transfers are eliminated with beers dry hopped in a keg.

A keg lid with a tab welded underneath can be bought for $16-18. Then a $3 bag and some butchers twine.

And I have found that crushing the dry hop helps two fold when bagging.

 

[Broothru]

Look for some of the best breweries producing lots of modern IPAs and see what combos they use to get some new ideas.

Slight thread hijack:

Is it just me, or have any of y'all started noticing that craft breweries aren't as "transparent" with their ingredients lately? Now I don't expect them to post cloning recipes on their websites, but I'm finding it more and more difficult to see just what hops are in the beer I'm drinking, and to a lesser extent the grains they're using as well.

If I really like a beer's taste I'd like to at least have some direction so I can design my own recipe, or maybe use a similar hop or combo of hops in my brews. Maybe they (craft brewers) adjust their recipes according to what they have available, rather than stick to a strict formula. Either that or they want us to marvel at their super-secret proprietary concoction and ponder..."if only I could make this..."

Brooo Brother

 

[stickyfinger]

That article looks great! Now I have some reading to do during my lunch break today.

I’m actually planning to use my 2 kegs that have a cut dip tube so I can place a filter over them. “Brite keg” style from Scott Janish. I want to fill the second keg with Star san and push it out with the gas from fermentation, but the only thing I don’t like about this method is the leftover Star san that isn’t pushed out since the dip tube is about 1” shorter. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove that leftover Star san? In the past I’ve had to open the lid and dump it out, but then I have to purge again

If you can stomach adding some CO2 from your cylinder, all you have to do is push in a few psi - maybe 5 psi - to the purged keg and then tip it upside down. i don't see this as an issue as far as oxidation is concerned, but some people may. push the poppet on the gas post in and the sanitizer will all come out. For this to be true you just have to trim your gas-in dip tube so that it is flush with or above the level of the keg wall inside. i trimmed several of mine with a hack saw and then filed them down to remove sharp edges. works fine. That way the sanitizer all just drains down into the hole and out the gas post. The pressure in the keg allows you to blast it out and maintain positive pressure in the keg.

 

[Dgallo]

Slight thread hijack:

Is it just me, or have any of y'all started noticing that craft breweries aren't as "transparent" with their ingredients lately? Now I don't expect them to post cloning recipes on their websites, but I'm finding it more and more difficult to see just what hops are in the beer I'm drinking, and to a lesser extent the grains they're using as well.

If I really like a beer's taste I'd like to at least have some direction so I can design my own recipe, or maybe use a similar hop or combo of hops in my brews. Maybe they (craft brewers) adjust their recipes according to what they have available, rather than stick to a strict formula. Either that or they want us to marvel at their super-secret proprietary concoction and ponder..."if only I could make this..."

Brooo Brother

I actually think it’s of the contrary. More breweries are listing hops and other ingredients for marketing purposes. Craft beer has been taking off in the last decade and consumers are becoming more knowledgeable of the process and ingredients. Most IPAs I buy either list the hops on the can or if not can be found on their website

 

[cpham574]

If you can stomach adding some CO2 from your cylinder, all you have to do is push in a few psi - maybe 5 psi - to the purged keg and then tip it upside down. i don't see this as an issue as far as oxidation is concerned, but some people may. push the poppet on the gas post in and the sanitizer will all come out. For this to be true you just have to trim your gas-in dip tube so that it is flush with or above the level of the keg wall inside. i trimmed several of mine with a hack saw and then filed them down to remove sharp edges. works fine. That way the sanitizer all just drains down into the hole and out the gas post. The pressure in the keg allows you to blast it out and maintain positive pressure in the keg.

omg I can’t believe I never thought about cutting the gas in dip tube. Genius! Thank you!!

 

[cpham574]

I actually think it’s of the contrary. More breweries are listing hops and other ingredients marketing. Craft beer has been taking off in the last decade and consumers are becoming more knowledgeable of the process and ingredients. Most IPAs I buy either list the hops on the can or if not can be found on their website

Agreed. Sapwood cellars is pretty good about listing ingredients too. My friends went to a release awhile ago and they even had handouts of the recipe to give to everyone

 

[SRJHops]

Looking for some suggestions.

Here's the list of hops that I currently have:
Cashmere
Citra
Columbus
Dr. Rudi
Galaxy
Idaho 7
Mosaic
Mighty Axe Julius - (Cascade hops grown in Minnesota - ripe, sweet orange, mandarin and peach flavors)
Rakau
Riwaka

What combos would you suggest? I've done plenty of the Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic combination, so I'm looking for something different.

Also, which of these hops do you prefer in the whirlpool and which do you prefer as a dry hop?

I appreciate any input.

Been thinking about this post and a previous post by ttuato, who recommended pairing 2 dank hops with 1 fruity hop. This makes a lot of sense to me, and my latest was hopped with Citra, Idaho 7, Simcoe, and Columbus. If I7 is dank, then I suppose I went 3 dank to 1 fruity. It's still conditioning, so hard to tell so far, but I have high hopes for it. I like a dank note in my favorite NEIPA-type beers.

So, from your list, maybe Citra, I7, Columbus? Or Citra, Galaxy (light), Columbus, Mosaic (heavier)?

I would love to find a list of NEIPA hops and which ones are best for the WP vs DH. The only one that I am pretty confident about is Citra, which works in both, but not in excessive amounts in the DH. I am just not sure about the others, though I am a bit frightened by the potency of Galaxy in the DH.

 

[stickyfinger]

omg I can’t believe I never thought about cutting the gas in dip tube. Genius! Thank you!!

Thank the LODO guys and gals. They came up with it I believe. I read about it in a thread about LODO. I think Schematix talked about it.

I think you might be able to just buy shorter dip tubes as well if you want to. Some of my new kegs have very short gas dip tubes from the factory.

 

[Andre3000]

Anyone else use a gas displacement method?

I hook my co2 up, hook a party tap up, purge out all remaining Starsan, into a bucket, and just hold the party open for 30-40s with the CO2 constantly flowing. Is this more or less efficient than the purge 16 times at 30 psi business? It just seems better. But I should hook a balloon up to see how much volumetric flow rate actually occurs. Then I could be sure.

 

[leesmith]

Here’s all the maths on it:

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/bre...rging-transferring-stabilizing-finished-beer/

I use a dremel cut off wheel to trim my dip tubes so they don’t protrude into the keg. Basically take off a half inch or so.

*Edit:
I do both the sanitizer method and the fermentation method and I’m happy with the results.

 

[Andre3000]

Love the article but it doesn't touch on the method I'm talking about. Mine is the starsan purge method minus the starsan. Haha.

 

[beervoid]

These type of issues are why using a bag really should be a consideration.

Yes...I know. Utilization....all that.

It’s possible to get the same (if not better or sometimes not) flavor and aroma as commercial IPAs.

So the results CAN be the same. And the hassles of clogged transfers are eliminated with beers dry hopped in a keg.

A keg lid with a tab welded underneath can be bought for $16-18. Then a $3 bag and some butchers twine.

And I have found that crushing the dry hop helps two fold when bagging.

I never have problems with the float tube and managed to figure out why it was plugged. I was pulling the line too hard when removing it for cleaning so it stretched out and became thin and was easy to double fold.

 

[Dgallo]

A little switch up for me but I just kegged my latest Milkshake style Sour Double IPA with lactose, fermented on passion fruit pulp and vanilla beans, and dryhopped with Galaxy. I co pitched with Hornindal and some probiotics. Nice sourness and just a tad of funk

 

[Hannabrew]

Love the article but it doesn't touch on the method I'm talking about. Mine is the starsan purge method minus the starsan. Haha.

You want too displace some liquid otherwise purging is very inefficient

 

[ihavenonickname]

A little switch up for me but I just kegged my latest Milkshake style Sour Double IPA with lactose, fermented on passion fruit pulp and vanilla beans, and dryhopped with Galaxy. I co pitched with Hornindal and some probiotics. Nice sourness and just a tad of funk View attachment 650806

I’d love to see a detailed write up on that! This thread or your own

 

[Andre3000]

You want too displace some liquid otherwise purging is very inefficient

How is it inefficient? I'm not saying I don't believe it, just curious. It seems like it would be a time / flow rate based scenario with constant mixing and dilution. Kinda like the purge and release method but continuous. Has anyone quantified it?

Edit: If you think about it, the method I'm describing is identical to the purge and release method in terms of volume of gas required, just less hassle because it's continuous. However, after calculating the actual amount of volume required which is over 100 gal of CO2 at atmospheric pressure, I'd hazard a guess that I am nowhere near 0 ppm O2 as I only do it for the 30-40 seconds mentioned above. There's no way it's at that high of a flow rate.

 

[Dgallo]

How is it inefficient? I'm not saying I don't believe it, just curious. It seems like it would be a time / flow rate based scenario with constant mixing and dilution. Kinda like the purge and release method but continuous. Has anyone quantified it?

I don’t put any sanitizer in my keg. I sanitize it then when empty I hook it to my active fermentation. I read an article that I believe @leesmith posted a while back that a fermentation produces enough co2 completely purge 3+ kegs. The number may have been as high as 7 I think

 

[Andre3000]

I don’t put any sanitizer in my keg. I sanitize it then when empty I hook it to my active fermentation. I read an article that I believe @leesmith posted a while back that a fermentation produces enough co2 completely purge 3+ kegs. The number may have been as high as 7 I think

I do this exact same thing and I think it's sound. Especially with the relatively slow flow rate of CO2 gas produced by fermentation, I think the O2 is more likely to be displaced without mixing making it even more effective.

 

[tellyho]

Have a version of this fermenting now - same grain bill, kveik (at 95 degrees!), mandarina bavarina, sorachi ace, lemondrop. Because that's what I had.

 

[crusader1612]

Anyone got tip on the best way to handle the lallemand dry yeast for this style?
I’ve heard banana esters can be an issue.

 

[couchsending]

Overpitch it.. This yeast supposedly doesn’t handle the drying process well so the amount of viable yeast per gram is pretty low as impacted to other dried yeasts. Use 2 packs when you think you only need 1 or 1.5.

 

[marjen]

Well after a long hiatus due to building a new house, I am finally about to start brewing again. Trying to catch up on this thread is difficult. I believe I have seen some rumblings that people are now not using the expensive hops in the whirlpool but saving them for the dry hop. Is this the new logic? What are most people doing in the whirpool? Last I brewed I was doing about 6 oz of hops like citra, mosaic, galaxy etc int he whirlpool and then 8 or so in the dry hop. Does that still make sense? This is for a 5 gallon batch.

 

[flintoid]

Well after a long hiatus due to building a new house, I am finally about to start brewing again. Trying to catch up on this thread is difficult. I believe I have seen some rumblings that people are now not using the expensive hops in the whirlpool but saving them for the dry hop. Is this the new logic? What are most people doing in the whirpool? Last I brewed I was doing about 6 oz of hops like citra, mosaic, galaxy etc int he whirlpool and then 8 or so in the dry hop. Does that still make sense? This is for a 5 gallon batch.

That quantity makes sense, the general consensus of the thread leans heavily towards Scott Janish reports (through his brulosophy testing and inquiries at craft breweries) as well as other academic studies that land peak utilization at around 2oz / gallon of beer.

There is this brulosophy post about pure dry hopping (not whirlpool + dh) that tends to point towards 1oz/gal vs 2oz/gal is indistinguishable.

http://brulosophy.com/2019/06/24/investigating-the-dry-hop-saturation-point-exbeeriment-results/

As far as expensive hops in the whirlpool vs not, I think it's more complicated than that. Do I like Idaho 7 in the whirlpool over citra? It's more of a personal taste aspect to it. Just because hops have similar oil levels as others doesn't necessarily mean that it will impart taste similarly if that oil is extracted and preserved. Would I use Cascade over Citra? Yes- similar enough unless I'm gunning to make the citra shine in that beer vs acting complimentary (others will differ on this I'm sure). But can I replicate galaxy or a NZ hop with a cheap substitute? No.

I try not to overthink this, now, after trying to be economical with my whirlpool hops. Once I went with a total economic based WP and wasn't exactly pleased with it. A few other times I just focused on what flavors I wanted to impart on the beer from data points I've collected over brewing, and those beers turned out much, much better.

And then there are some out there that tell you to ditch the WP entirely. I disagree with this. It makes a very uninspired beer, IMO. But I enjoy complexity, and have never enjoyed SMaSH brews (they only give me data to work with).

 

[rickyrich]

I have made it my life’s mission to brew a beer that resembles something from my fave brewery Electric.

I could not believe what poured from my keg on Sunday! I finally friggin nailed it in every sense. I cannot believe I brewed this!

 

[Frieds]

View attachment 651312

View attachment 651313

I have made it my life’s mission to brew a beer that resembles something from my fave brewery Electric.

I could not believe what poured from my keg on Sunday! I finally friggin nailed it in every sense. I cannot believe I brewed this!

That looks absolutely amazing.

 

[rickyrich]

That looks absolutely amazing.

6 gallon Recipe:

7# Pilsen
3# Malted Oats
2# White Wheat
2# Vienna
1# Flaked Oats
1# Lactose

10 mins
1 oz Simcoe

WP (160F)
4 oz El Dorado
1 oz Galaxy
1 oz Sabro

DH
2 oz Ella
2 oz Vic Secret
1 oz Galaxy
1 oz Sabro

A24 Dry Hop

[emoji7]

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Well after a long hiatus due to building a new house, I am finally about to start brewing again. Trying to catch up on this thread is difficult. I believe I have seen some rumblings that people are now not using the expensive hops in the whirlpool but saving them for the dry hop. Is this the new logic? What are most people doing in the whirpool? Last I brewed I was doing about 6 oz of hops like citra, mosaic, galaxy etc int he whirlpool and then 8 or so in the dry hop. Does that still make sense? This is for a 5 gallon batch.

I don't think it's a matter of expensive is better for dryhop, but people have preferences as to which hops they like in whirlpool vs dryhop because it will draw out different flavors. Highly subjective obviously. I did hear one of the heavy hitters in my state say in a podcast they prefer to use their fresher/better batches of hops in the dryhop, which I thought was very interesting. Clearly they think that the dryhop does the heavy lifting.

 

[rickyrich]

I don't think it's a matter of expensive is better for dryhop, but people have preferences as to which hops they like in whirlpool vs dryhop because it will draw out different flavors. Highly subjective obviously. I did hear one of the heavy hitters in my state say in a podcast they prefer to use their fresher/better batches of hops in the dryhop, which I thought was very interesting. Clearly they think that the dryhop does the heavy lifting.

I recently spoke to a pro brewer and he told me (on a homebrew scale) to barely put any hops hotside at all. He told me a small bittering charge and maybe .5-1 oz WP. Then hit the DH hard w/ 8-10 oz.

I need to try it and see if I get similar results. I think this would eliminate the worry of using your best hops hotside if you’re only using such a small amount.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Clearly they think that the dryhop does the heavy lifting.

Not so much "heavy lifting", more that the stuff you're trying to extract in cold wort is by definition more volatile and "fragile" than the flavour compounds you extract by boiling the hops alive. Volatile compounds will be the first to be driven off as hops age, so it makes sense to use the freshest hops for dry hopping.

 

[SRJHops]

So, I don't know if there's a polling feature on this site, but today I am wondering about dry hopping during fermentation and/or biotransformation.

My recent NEIPA is still conditioning, but samples so far have lacked the citrus taste from my previous batches. I used Citra, Idaho 7, Simcoe, and Columbus.

The main thing I did differently this time was to NOT dry hop during active fermentation. I did one DH after fermentation on Day 9 (at 60 degrees), and one on day 12 (at 70 degrees) two days before bottling.

It seems folks are split on biotransformation and/or dry hopping during active fermentation. I realize that only some yeasts seem to do the biotransformation, but in any case, where do some of you come down on this?

Given how my latest is shaping up so far, I feel like I should go back to the DDH with one during active and another after fermentation...

Thoughts?