New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

I pitch one pack into as much wort as I need for whatever I am doing, which is usually 2-4L of wort (for 1-3 batches of beer with one harvest volume). So, if I were making a 10G batch of beer, I'd make a 3L starter the day before the brew and get it spinning in an Erlenmeyer flask. After my brew the next day is finished, when my beer is in the fermentation kegs and ready to pitch, I'd take the 3L starter and pour off 1L of it into my sterile jar and then pour that into the first keg. I'd do that again for the second keg and then finally pour the rest of the starter into the sterile jar and let that rest a day before chilling down for future use. You can plan your starter start time if you want, but I usually just do it like 12-18 hrs before I will be ready to pitch it.

Not sure I follow...are you saying you'd pitch 1 pack into 3L, split the 3L into 3 1L bottles, pitch two of those at high krausen the next day and let one finish out before storing for the next batch?

 

[leesmith]

Yeah i mentioned keg hopping only but there would still be a decent amount of whirlpool hops in there most likely and my recent process with these beers is only a single dry hop in the primary. I don't like the beer sitting on hops for extended periods in the keg and I also don't like using filters when DHing.

That yeast pictured came from a beer with three ounces in the whirlpool....from a 2.5 gallon batch of beer. Whirlfloc at 5 min, do whatever whirlpool you want, and let settle before racking to a fermentor.

Didn’t you post a picture where you were purging two kegs off the fermenter?
Push from primary to a dry hop keg to a serving keg.
Of course you’d have to bag the hops.....this may be too much like a filter to you though.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

[Hannabrew]

Yeah I have the kegs to do it I just prefer not to rack another time.

 

[Hannabrew]

I pitch one pack into as much wort as I need for whatever I am doing, which is usually 2-4L of wort (for 1-3 batches of beer with one harvest volume). So, if I were making a 10G batch of beer, I'd make a 3L starter the day before the brew and get it spinning in an Erlenmeyer flask. After my brew the next day is finished, when my beer is in the fermentation kegs and ready to pitch, I'd take the 3L starter and pour off 1L of it into my sterile jar and then pour that into the first keg. I'd do that again for the second keg and then finally pour the rest of the starter into the sterile jar and let that rest a day before chilling down for future use. You can plan your starter start time if you want, but I usually just do it like 12-18 hrs before I will be ready to pitch it.

I think this is what I would do. 2 liter starter and pitch half of it at high krausen and let the other half finish out to store for the next batch.

 

[stickyfinger]

I think this is what I would do. 2 liter starter and pitch half of it at high krausen and let the other half finish out to store for the next batch.

try it out. you'll love it! fresh, active yeast substitute for a large cell count in many cases i think.

 

[Dgallo]

Yeah I have the kegs to do it I just prefer not to rack another time.

I’m with you here. A $10 yeast pack isn’t worth another rack to me. Rather buy a new one each time if that’s the case.

But Like @stickyfinger I would just over rebuild a starter or rebuild a left over one

 

[leesmith]

I think this is what I would do. 2 liter starter and pitch half of it at high krausen and let the other half finish out to store for the next batch.

Nice....that works good....done it many times.

Yeah another rack isn’t perfect (good enough for my house though)...just trying to help you with a version of Braufessor’s technique.

 

[troglodytes]

Ignore me if this is the wrong place for this question, but I think it may be relevant as I want to employ the same practices I should be using with my NEIPA (my next batch) with the Red IPA I'm currently working on.

This has to do with large dry hops, restarting fermentation and cleaning up diacetyl.

First off, I made a mistake in cold crashing too soon. I'm used to my yeast being done fast and I can usually judge a beers done-ness based on timing. I am however, using a new yeast to me (WY1272) and I fermented on the low end (64-66F) for about 9 days. I under pitched an active starter (possible first mistake). And in attempts to mitigate O2 I never opened to take a gravity reading(second mistake for assuming). I dry hopped on day 9 after soft crashing from 66F to 58F, and at the same time took a gravity reading only to find out that the beer has a little diacetyl (its not that bad but just enough to taste) and it is only at 1.020 from 1.057.

The slightly higher gravity is not my worry as a Red IPA, the sweetness is more welcomed than in other IPA varieties, but it was brewed sort of as if it were a NEIPA, just with more Rye/crystal, etc. This thing is getting 8 oz of dry hops, and in dry hopping and warming to 61F it is apparent that fermentation has found some new vigor. Now from what I've heard of hop creep, the pH should rise with that amount of hops, and with the O2 (albeit a small amount) introduced while dry hopping, more diacetyl should be produced.

So finally here's the question. The DH is in and the beer is sitting at the cool range of the yeast, a lot of which has flocced out with the soft crash. Do I raise the temp to 68-70F in hopes there is enough yeast to do a D-rest? Or do I let the hops ride in a cool environment as there isn't enough yeast left to do a true D-rest in order to maintain the best hop aroma and flavor?

 

[Dgallo]

Ignore me if this is the wrong place for this question, but I think it may be relevant as I want to employ the same practices I should be using with my NEIPA (my next batch) with the Red IPA I'm currently working on.

This has to do with large dry hops, restarting fermentation and cleaning up diacetyl.

First off, I made a mistake in cold crashing too soon. I'm used to my yeast being done fast and I can usually judge a beers done-ness based on timing. I am however, using a new yeast to me (WY1272) and I fermented on the low end (64-66F) for about 9 days. I under pitched an active starter (possible first mistake). And in attempts to mitigate O2 I never opened to take a gravity reading(second mistake for assuming). I dry hopped on day 9 after soft crashing from 66F to 58F, and at the same time took a gravity reading only to find out that the beer has a little diacetyl (its not that bad but just enough to taste) and it is only at 1.020 from 1.057.

The slightly higher gravity is not my worry as a Red IPA, the sweetness is more welcomed than in other IPA varieties, but it was brewed sort of as if it were a NEIPA, just with more Rye/crystal, etc. This thing is getting 8 oz of dry hops, and in dry hopping and warming to 61F it is apparent that fermentation has found some new vigor. Now from what I've heard of hop creep, the pH should rise with that amount of hops, and with the O2 (albeit a small amount) introduced while dry hopping, more diacetyl should be produced.

So finally here's the question. The DH is in and the beer is sitting at the cool range of the yeast, a lot of which has flocced out with the soft crash. Do I raise the temp to 68-70F in hopes there is enough yeast to do a D-rest? Or do I let the hops ride in a cool environment as there isn't enough yeast left to do a true D-rest in order to maintain the best hop aroma and flavor?

Since you know your mistakes I won’t mention those. What did you mash at? 1.020 seems high for a 1.057 unless you mashed at like 158-160. If you mash lower than that, you def did not hit your fg. Try warming it up, should still be enough yeast to finish your points or at the very least clean it up. You could also pitch a champagne yeast to finish it off if you so choose.

 

[leesmith]

Ignore me if this is the wrong place for this question, but I think it may be relevant as I want to employ the same practices I should be using with my NEIPA (my next batch) with the Red IPA I'm currently working on.

This has to do with large dry hops, restarting fermentation and cleaning up diacetyl.

First off, I made a mistake in cold crashing too soon. I'm used to my yeast being done fast and I can usually judge a beers done-ness based on timing. I am however, using a new yeast to me (WY1272) and I fermented on the low end (64-66F) for about 9 days. I under pitched an active starter (possible first mistake). And in attempts to mitigate O2 I never opened to take a gravity reading(second mistake for assuming). I dry hopped on day 9 after soft crashing from 66F to 58F, and at the same time took a gravity reading only to find out that the beer has a little diacetyl (its not that bad but just enough to taste) and it is only at 1.020 from 1.057.

The slightly higher gravity is not my worry as a Red IPA, the sweetness is more welcomed than in other IPA varieties, but it was brewed sort of as if it were a NEIPA, just with more Rye/crystal, etc. This thing is getting 8 oz of dry hops, and in dry hopping and warming to 61F it is apparent that fermentation has found some new vigor. Now from what I've heard of hop creep, the pH should rise with that amount of hops, and with the O2 (albeit a small amount) introduced while dry hopping, more diacetyl should be produced.

So finally here's the question. The DH is in and the beer is sitting at the cool range of the yeast, a lot of which has flocced out with the soft crash. Do I raise the temp to 68-70F in hopes there is enough yeast to do a D-rest? Or do I let the hops ride in a cool environment as there isn't enough yeast left to do a true D-rest in order to maintain the best hop aroma and flavor?

Once you have crashed the yeast, the diacetyl precursors are locked in.

I doubt warming it back up will help much. Even if it’s still on the cake. But you could try (I say this because of the gravity points you have left which may be enough to get the yeast active again) and if the diacetyl doesn’t go away....

Research indicates Krausening will clean up diacetyl.

So...krausen to carbonate the beer. The fresh yeast will clean it up and carbonate it.

 

[troglodytes]

What did you mash at? 1.020 seems high for a 1.057 unless you mashed at like 158-160.

I mashed at 156F. Unlike a a NEIPA I wanted to maintain a bit more body, sweetness and maltiness (plus I was following a recipe that looked fantastic). I'd expect this thing be finished at 1.016 (just a guess based on experience) with the amount of flaked rye, melanoiden, special B, caramunich II in it. The recipe is certainly not going to turn out anything like what we've been discussing in this thread, but the practices when it comes to hop schedule is dead on. So I was hoping the huge DH might actually save me this time, that was until I noticed that diacetyl taste

Research indicates Krausening will clean up diacetyl.

Thank you, I have done this in the past when bottling from time to time with mixed results (with carb levels, tastes was always good). This is going to be the first batch I keg with my new setup, and I never planned on krausening. With no wort left over from the batch, do I just make a starter (OG calculated to hit about the serving pressure I want) and pitch at high krausen into the keg when I transfer the batch over?

 

[Dgallo]

I mashed at 156F. Unlike a a NEIPA I wanted to maintain a bit more body, sweetness and maltiness (plus I was following a recipe that looked fantastic). I'd expect this thing be finished at 1.016 (just a guess based on experience) with the amount of flaked rye, melanoiden, special B, caramunich II in it. The recipe is certainly not going to turn out anything like what we've been discussing in this thread, but the practices when it comes to hop schedule is dead on. So I was hoping the huge DH might actually save me this time, that was until I noticed that diacetyl taste/QUOTE]

No I’m with you. I always give my NEIPA a big body so I can use the carb level to really soften the mouth feel up. I mash at 155/156 with 2 lbs of flaked wheat in a 1.064 and always finish right around 1.017. Obviously I’ll produce more alcohol than you so my fg will be a point or so lower. so I would say you still possibly have a point maybe two. The reason I suggested champagne yeast to finish is because it can tolerate alcohol much better so it will def shave off those final points but it is also produces little to no esters, so it will clean it up without changing your flavor. However since, your only around a 4.9/5 abv any ale yeast should be able to tolerate that environment in a repitch.

 

[leesmith]

Thank you, I have done this in the past when bottling from time to time with mixed results (with carb levels, tastes was always good). This is going to be the first batch I keg with my new setup, and I never planned on krausening. With no wort left over from the batch, do I just make a starter (OG calculated to hit about the serving pressure I want) and pitch at high krausen into the keg when I transfer the batch over?

Yes you would just make a starter.

And use this calculator to help with volumes:

https://www.brewersfriend.com/gyle-and-krausen-priming-calculator/


I’m worried because of your low pitching rate and the long fermentation.
A beer like that would hit FG in probably 5-6 days.

If your smelling diacetyl without doing a forced diacetyl test then the amounts are high.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[SRJHops]

Once you have crashed the yeast, the diacetyl precursors are locked in.

I doubt warming it back up will help much. Even if it’s still on the cake. But you could try (I say this because of the gravity points you have left which may be enough to get the yeast active again) and if the diacetyl doesn’t go away....

Research indicates Krausening will clean up diacetyl.

So...krausen to carbonate the beer. The fresh yeast will clean it up and carbonate it.

I might be wrong, but isn't krausening adding some fermenting wort? That seems kinda impractical for homebrewing in most cases. Maybe adding some unfermented wort would work? But in this case, I'd think warming it up to the 170 range would be good thing to try at first. I'm with Dgallo that 1.020 from a 1.057 OG seems high -- what was the FG target? Guessing there is plenty of sugar to work with, so adding some more yeast would be the next thing to try...

 

[Dgallo]

I might be wrong, but isn't krausening adding some fermenting wort? That seems kinda impractical for homebrewing in most cases. Maybe adding some unfermented wort would work?

Lee will prob answer this better but an active starter is technically pitching krausening

 

[SRJHops]

1. I would not move those hops to FWH unless it's in the recipe and/or you really want to make a bitter beer. Put them in at 160, where the flavor will be extracted. (Also, it sounds like you are committed to no-chill, but have you considered chilling with ice?)

2. A lot of NEIPA recipes will say to add the first round of dry hops on day 1-2 of fermentation, during high krausen. It has to do with "biostransformation" of the hops, which causes some of the haze and flavor.

Of course, you probably already have hops in there, and not everyone is on board with this step anymore. But if it's the only dry hop you do, and you don't open the bucket/carboy again until bottling, then you will be taking some good steps to avoid oxidation.

If you dry hop a few days before bottling, you could get some oxidation. But adding that 2nd hop charge should bump up flavor and aroma. Personally, as a bottler worried about oxidation, I am leaning toward maybe just doing the one dry hop on day 2. (But let me try my latest batch -- which did get the second charge 3 days before bottling -- and get back to you. It's on Day 7 of bottle conditioning.)

3. Avoid transferring beer with this style - it will oxidize it. Better to ferment right in the bucket with the siphon, and then right into bottles with sugar in them. I use Cooper's sugar tabs, but you can also just put in drops of dissolved sugar -- I personally worry about getting the amount right. Others have said to drop the sugar right into the carboy, but I worry it won't get mixed in right.

The best NEIPA I've made so far was done the way I described -- just dry hopped on Day 2 and I didn't open the fermenter until bottling straight into bombers (with sugar tablets) on Day 14.

Good luck and please report back!

stefan646, good news on my latest bottled batch so far. I opened a bottle last night and it's looking really good!

I did a double dry hop, with the first charge on Day 2 and the final charge three days before bottling. For that final dry hop, I purged with squirts of wine preserver spray, which seemed to do the trick - there is no sign of oxidation at this point and the beer color is the best I've achieved so far (going for a really low SRM).

The beer is just on Day 8 of carbonating, and it's going to need the full 2 weeks I think. At that point I will assess whether the 2nd dry hop charge added the increased aroma I has hoping for. If not, I will probably just go back to only dry hopping on Day 2 and keeping the fermenter closed until bottling.

 

[SRJHops]

Lee will prob answer this better but an active starter is technically pitching krausening

Oh, I suppose that does make sense -- the starter is pretty much the same thing as fermenting beer, though with a lot more yeast, right? What would be the advantage of adding a starter vs just pitching in some more yeast?

 

[leesmith]

....active starter is technically pitching krausening

Exactly.

It’s not too complicated.
Also, if he had brewed a similar beer recently and if it’s fermenting...he could just pull some of that off and use it.

 

[Dgallo]

Oh, I suppose that does make sense -- the starter is pretty much the same thing as fermenting beer, though with a lot more yeast, right? What would be the advantage of adding a starter vs just pitching in some more yeast?

Using active yeast has a lot of benefits. One the yeast are already eating and multiplying so there is zero lag time. Also since they are already eating, there is alcohol already present, so the yeast going in already have some tolerance to the alcohol. This is especially helpful when pitching into a “stuck” fermentation.

I always pitch my starter when it’s active. Produces a healthier fermentation and allows for more desirable ester production and lessens the formation of acedaltehyde and VDK

 

[nick sekerak]

When I think my beer has hit final gravity...I then wait until I can’t smell or taste diacetyl (look up a forced diacetyl test). Predicted FG will be hit in 2-5 days depending on gravity and then the beer needs 2-5 more days to clean up. Once I can’t detect the diacetyl....I crash it and get it off the yeast.

This is a relatively new process for me but feel it is a reliable one. I used to just prescribe to the 2 day rule after hitting FG...but every beer and yeast is different.

Been holding at 72-73* since Sunday. Just ch checked gravity at 10105. No diacetyl present I think it’s hit FG . I am going to give it till Sunday to tidy up the check gravity then keg if no change.

 

[Dgallo]

[

Been holding at 72-73* since Sunday. Just ch checked gravity at 10105. No diacetyl present I think it’s hit FG . I am going to give it till Sunday to tidy up the check gravity then keg if no change. View attachment 612317

looks good. Most likely finished now by Sunday you’ll be fine. As you take your samples, just remember you won’t be producing co2 anymore so make sure you’re eliminating the chances for oxygen contact. Did you notice any increase in the ester profile?

 

[nick sekerak]

[

looks good. Most likely finished now by Sunday you’ll be fine. As you take your samples, just remember you won’t be producing co2 anymore so make sure you’re eliminating the chances for oxygen contact. Did you notice any increase in the ester profile?

I think I did get some peach upfront before the tropical juice. This may be one of my best yet. It’s at 9.5 abv and I can not detect any boozy flavores. I am excited to see how this tastes out of the keg.

 

[marchuk96]

I think I did get some peach upfront before the tropical juice. This may be one of my best yet. It’s at 9.5 abv and I can not detect any boozy flavores. I am excited to see how this tastes out of the keg.

Sounds dangerous!!

 

[stefan646]

stefan646, good news on my latest bottled batch so far. I opened a bottle last night and it's looking really good!

I did a double dry hop, with the first charge on Day 2 and the final charge three days before bottling. For that final dry hop, I purged with squirts of wine preserver spray, which seemed to do the trick - there is no sign of oxidation at this point and the beer color is the best I've achieved so far (going for a really low SRM).

The beer is just on Day 8 of carbonating, and it's going to need the full 2 weeks I think. At that point I will assess whether the 2nd dry hop charge added the increased aroma I has hoping for. If not, I will probably just go back to only dry hopping on Day 2 and keeping the fermenter closed until bottling.

I think that for now I will stick only with one dry hop on the second day, and see how this goes.
Today my grains had arrived so my plan is to do so:
-2.5 kg Weyermann Pilsner
-2.5 kg Weyermann Pale Ale
-0.5 kg Weyerman Wheat Pale
-0.1 kg Weyerman Melanoidin (my LHBS doesn't have Honey malt)
-0.5 kg flaked oats
-0.5 kg flaked barley
- 1l starter with US-05 ( my LHBS doesn't have liquid yeast on stock)

-BIAB mash at 68 C (154F) for 90 min
-Boil for 90 min
-after the boil, when the worth reach 71C (160F) add 6 oz of 3:2:1 Citra:Mosaic:Centennial (my LHBS doesn't have Galaxy), and let the worth chill in the kettle with the lid on util the next day (no chill method, I don't have a chiller)
-when the worth reach pitching temperature, I transfer it to a bucket with a spigot. The kettle has a ball valve so I am pouring the wort from 1m high in to the bucket to aerate the wort.
-add the yeast
-after the fermentation start, on day 2, add 6 oz 3:2:1 Citra:Mosaic:Centennial
-after 14 day remove the airlock to make counter pressure so that I can pour from the spigot - this way I don't have to open the bucket lid
-mount the bottling wand to the bucket spigot and bottle directly in to 500ml bottles(I don't have a keg) with 3g of dextrose in each
-cap

What should I change now or in the future to this particular grain bill,hops, or brewing method(the no chill will remain) ? I currently have done many BIAB no chill batches with great success, but no NEIPA(or IPA), so I don't want to screw something, especially that 12 oz of hops are quite expensive in my country
I am thinking if I should or not reduce a little the first hop amounts because the hops will remain longer in the hot worth that if I had a chiller.

 

[Dgallo]

I think that for now I will stick only with one dry hop on the second day, and see how this goes........................

-add the yeast
-after the fermentation start, on day 2, add 6 oz 3:2:1 Citra:Mosaic:Centennial
-

I would advise against throwing all your dryhop in during active fermentation for a few reasons. One, the definitive science for the bio transformation isn’t there. The most recent study that does show that bio transformation is occurring found that there is more than enough oils from the boil/whirlpool additions to take care of the biotransformation addition.

Secondly, the fermentation itself will cause you to loose some aroma and then when the yeast drop out they will strip the beer of a measurable amount of hop oils.

If you’re fermentation hopping to prevent oxidation, then I would wait later in fermentation to drop them in. If you can control oxygen contact than I would just drop them in with 3-2 days before you plan on packaging. You’ll get a more vibrant presentation of the hops this way.

 

[stefan646]

I would advise against throwing all your dryhop in during active fermentation for a few reasons. One, the definitive science for the bio transformation isn’t there. The most recent study that does show that bio transformation is occurring found that there is more than enough oils from the boil/whirlpool additions to take care of the biotransformation addition.

Secondly, the fermentation itself will cause you to loose some aroma and then when the yeast drop out they will strip the beer of a measurable amount of hop oils.

If you’re fermentation hopping to prevent oxidation, then I would wait later in fermentation to drop them in. If you can control oxygen contact than I would just drop them in with 3-2 days before you plan on packaging. You’ll get a more vibrant presentation of the hops this way.

I think as well that the dry hop should be done after the fermentation, but:
-the OP suggests that the dry hop should be done in 2-3 day after fermentation starts - because I never had done a NEIPA I don't know if this is for style or for best hop utilization/aroma/flavor
- user SRJHops recommended so - same as above, but I am waiting for his late dry hop addition result
-it should create the haze - but user cheesebach report that the haze was already in the worth before dry hopping

I am thinking that I should use a HDPE cube with a spigot for fermentation because it has only a 5cm opening, so when I make the dry hop It should introduce less O2 than opening a bucket lid.
Also I have a question for those who keg: If you make the transfer from the fermenter to keg by purging the keg with co2 to eliminate oxygen, what would be the difference from bottling directly from primary and bottling from a purged priming bucket ?

 

[Dgallo]

I think as well that the dry hop should be done after the fermentation, but:
-the OP suggests that the dry hop should be done in 2-3 day after fermentation starts - because I never had done a NEIPA I don't know if this is for style or for best hop utilization/aroma/flavor
- user SRJHops recommended so - same as above, but I am waiting for his late dry hop addition result
-it should create the haze - but user cheesebach report that the haze was already in the worth before dry hopping

However you like to do it is your call, you mentioned hops are expensive in your country so I was just trying to save you from losing some aroma and flavor due to blow off and yeast strip. However with the whirlpool you did youll have more than enough polyphenols to create the protein bond during fermentation, so don’t early dryhop solely for that reason. It will be plenty hazy.

Also I have a question for those who keg: If you make the transfer from the fermenter to keg by purging the keg with co2 to eliminate oxygen, what would be the difference from bottling directly from primary and bottling from a purged priming bucket ?

With a close transfer from a fermenter to a purged keg, there is ideally zero contact of oxygen. Then we will force carb the keg and be ready to server anywhere from 30 minutes to 3-4 days depending on the carbing method. Bottling will cause you to complete at the minimum of 1 more transfer but usually 2 more, which provides much more oxygen contact. Then while you are bottling the beer is exposed to oxygen until you are done bottle. Even if you cover it, the syphen created by filling the bottles will draw oxygen into the bottling bucket. In addition the necks of the bottles will have some level of oxygen in them, so when your yeast start to eat the priming sugar and create co2 the oxygen that was in the neck will also be forced into the beer.

 

[SRJHops]

I think as well that the dry hop should be done after the fermentation, but:
-the OP suggests that the dry hop should be done in 2-3 day after fermentation starts - because I never had done a NEIPA I don't know if this is for style or for best hop utilization/aroma/flavor
- user SRJHops recommended so - same as above, but I am waiting for his late dry hop addition result
-it should create the haze - but user cheesebach report that the haze was already in the worth before dry hopping

I am thinking that I should use a HDPE cube with a spigot for fermentation because it has only a 5cm opening, so when I make the dry hop It should introduce less O2 than opening a bucket lid.
Also I have a question for those who keg: If you make the transfer from the fermenter to keg by purging the keg with co2 to eliminate oxygen, what would be the difference from bottling directly from primary and bottling from a purged priming bucket ?

Well, the biggest thing to avoid with this style is cold side oxidation. I might have you confused with the OP, but I thought you were going to bottle, so I assumed you didn't have access to C02. If you do have Co2, then Dgallo is 100% correct - save some of the dry hopping for a few days before kegging/bottling and just give the bucket a good purge. Or, try it this time with just the dry hop charge on Day 2 and move some of the hops to whirlpool. You will likely make a very tasty beer. Next time, try the double dry hop, and it could be even tastier!

It appears that MY gas purge worked for the late dry hopping, but the jury is still out on whether I think it was worth it. If I get more aroma and very little to no oxidation, then that will be the process I use. But I do keep in mind that more than a few folks have noted that purging may not always work to keep the beer from oxidizing...

 

[stickyfinger]

You can try one addition on day 2-3. It works great. There may be some flavor or aroma differences if you wait longer, certainly will be if you wait until a day before kegging (i've tested that) but you might prefer the early dry hop. Just try both methods in the future and see what you like.

I think as well that the dry hop should be done after the fermentation, but:
-the OP suggests that the dry hop should be done in 2-3 day after fermentation starts - because I never had done a NEIPA I don't know if this is for style or for best hop utilization/aroma/flavor
- user SRJHops recommended so - same as above, but I am waiting for his late dry hop addition result
-it should create the haze - but user cheesebach report that the haze was already in the worth before dry hopping

I am thinking that I should use a HDPE cube with a spigot for fermentation because it has only a 5cm opening, so when I make the dry hop It should introduce less O2 than opening a bucket lid.
Also I have a question for those who keg: If you make the transfer from the fermenter to keg by purging the keg with co2 to eliminate oxygen, what would be the difference from bottling directly from primary and bottling from a purged priming bucket ?

 

[SRJHops]

I think that for now I will stick only with one dry hop on the second day, and see how this goes.
Today my grains had arrived so my plan is to do so:
-2.5 kg Weyermann Pilsner
-2.5 kg Weyermann Pale Ale
-0.5 kg Weyerman Wheat Pale
-0.1 kg Weyerman Melanoidin (my LHBS doesn't have Honey malt)
-0.5 kg flaked oats
-0.5 kg flaked barley
- 1l starter with US-05 ( my LHBS doesn't have liquid yeast on stock)

-BIAB mash at 68 C (154F) for 90 min
-Boil for 90 min
-after the boil, when the worth reach 71C (160F) add 6 oz of 3:2:1 Citra:Mosaic:Centennial (my LHBS doesn't have Galaxy), and let the worth chill in the kettle with the lid on util the next day (no chill method, I don't have a chiller)
-when the worth reach pitching temperature, I transfer it to a bucket with a spigot. The kettle has a ball valve so I am pouring the wort from 1m high in to the bucket to aerate the wort.
-add the yeast
-after the fermentation start, on day 2, add 6 oz 3:2:1 Citra:Mosaic:Centennial
-after 14 day remove the airlock to make counter pressure so that I can pour from the spigot - this way I don't have to open the bucket lid
-mount the bottling wand to the bucket spigot and bottle directly in to 500ml bottles(I don't have a keg) with 3g of dextrose in each
-cap

What should I change now or in the future to this particular grain bill,hops, or brewing method(the no chill will remain) ? I currently have done many BIAB no chill batches with great success, but no NEIPA(or IPA), so I don't want to screw something, especially that 12 oz of hops are quite expensive in my country
I am thinking if I should or not reduce a little the first hop amounts because the hops will remain longer in the hot worth that if I had a chiller.

If you have Safale-04, use that instead of 05.

The Pale Ale will give you a darker beer -- do you have regular 2 row?

I might suggest more wheat.

I used flaked oats and flaked barley in my current NEIPA and it's looking good. I might suggest that you bump up the amounts.

If available, Amarillo is a good choice instead of Centennial.

The 90 minute boil is long, but I see you have Pils so you are trying to drive off DMS. If you switch to 2-row, you can probably get away with a 30 minute boil -- something to consider for the next brew, perhaps.

You can even do a no-boil NEIPA, but that's on PianoMan's no-boil thread... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/no-boil-recipes-new-for-2019.660329/