New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[SRJHops]

Those using 16-18oz hops, are those regular and/or cryo? I have a PowerPoint from head brewer of Pinthouse Pizza. Electric Jellyfish is 18oz regular hops in a 6gal batch. 4in boil/kettle. The calculation I have would convert to about 12oz Cryo/regular. The 4oz regular hops in boil/WP then 8oz Cryo hops in Dry Hop/DDH. This ends up like at $90 for a 6gal batch as is with 1oz single hop buys.

I use 18 ounces regular hops for a 6 gallon batch. Good to know that Pinthouse's Electric Jellyfish uses the same amount!

These NEIPAs are pricey! Our homebrew shop has some hops in larger packets, so that cuts the cost a little, but I am spending around $75 per batch. I get about 25 bombers, and I always figure it's still cheaper than $13 bombers of NEIPA I can purchase at the store!

I do always pay attention to the folks who say less hops is more, but I admit that so far my experience has been the opposite -- more hops gets me closer to Toppling Goliath and the extremely tasty local NEIPA's.

 

[jakturner]

Check this thread for kveik info
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...is-blowing-my-mind.653929/page-5#post-8489730

Thanks for the reply, I do follow that thread but still not sure the effects of dry hopping at high temps.

 

[ttuato]

Thanks for the reply, I do follow that thread but still not sure the effects of dry hopping at high temps.

There is some discussion on high temp dry hopping on the Milk The Funk Facebook page - gotta join the group to see it. Nothing earth shattering though - basically higher heat = greater/faster extraction, so don't need as long of contact time.

My experience: I have done three Hornidal batches - two no boil (nah..) and one regular. On all three I fermented at 98*. Each was at FG in 36-40hours. I dry hopped around 36hours at 98* then began crashing about 12 hours later. I left at 40* for 24 then transferred to serving keg. Grain to glass in 5-6days (I spund). It still needed at least a week to lager/condition. Definitely a good yeast to have in your vault, but not my go to for a house yeast. Great option for keeping the queue full in the summer while the ferm fridge is occupied by a lager or gose.

 

[cheesebach]

Good question. 1st off, I'm using a Fermentasaurous which can be pressurized to 35psi to ferment. I set the pressure relief to 6psi. After 2 days fermentation added ALL dry hops. 1oz Citra cryo, 1oz Mosaic Cryo, 1oz galaxy. Sat for another 7 days. Dumped trub and cold crashed. Basicly that pic/1st draw was at day 9. No transfer on this one.

Ah, that probably explains why it’s working well for you but not for me. I don’t apply any pressure early in the fermentation (unless I were trying to avoid yeast ester production). When I do begin spunding, it’s late in the fermentation and I have pressure set high (20psi). Adding dry hops after that point is a no go, unless you transfer it under pressure to another keg containing the dry hops.

 

[beervoid]

Thanks for the reply, I do follow that thread but still not sure the effects of dry hopping at high temps.

Dry hopped kveik voss at high temp, got a strong rotten fruit smell.
I prefer dry hopping in the lower ranger.
Also be sure to give it extra time to clean up if you do dry hop and crash cause you can get a diacetyl problem

 

[jakturner]

Ok guys thanks for the info. I used Hornidal which I have used before in a farmhouse with juniper branches (eastern red cedar). Also I dried some flakes and I used those in my gose and berliners. Anyways, I pitched at 85* put the brewbelt on and it held it around mid 80s. 1062-1014 in 40 hours, dry hopped last night at 48 hour post pitch. This morning I turned off the brewbelt and detached the blowoff for some natural carbonation.

 

[kinginthenorth]

Anyone who has used 1272 for this beer, what ferm temps/schedule are you using?

 

[troglodytes]

Lower your mash PH to 5.2 MAX acidy your pre boil PH to 5.00. If your boil PH is to high your pulling astringency from the hops. You're saying the more you use the worse it gets, that's what pops out to me. Also the "belgiany flavors" sounds like a yeast issue. Are you using RO water and adding minerals to get you to 150:100 sulfate to chloride?

Quick question about the pre-boil pH. I know your results are not going to mirror mine with different water profiles, grains/maltsters etc., but could you let me know what you typically see for untreated pre-boil pH after sparging. I'm wondering what happens when higher pH sparge runoff interacts with the wort from the mash. I don't own a pH meter and use Brun water to produce pretty good beers (usually) and unfortunately a pH meter is not going to be in the budget any time soon. I'm thinking if I hit a mash pH of 5.2, the grains will have a lesser buffer and the sparge may be lets say 5.6. Does that mean you can expect a pre-boil pH of 5.3-5.35 or does it end up being a lot closer to the mash pH of 5.2 once its in the kettle. Based on calculations I think I can treat the pre-boil wort with about 3mL of lactic acid to bring it down to 5.0 if its starting at 5.2, but I really have no idea what preboil pH would look like for certain mashes as I've never seen a calculator for that or read of anyone providing their own personal information.

 

[ttuato]

Ah, that probably explains why it’s working well for you but not for me. I don’t apply any pressure early in the fermentation (unless I were trying to avoid yeast ester production). When I do begin spunding, it’s late in the fermentation and I have pressure set high (20psi). Adding dry hops after that point is a no go, unless you transfer it under pressure to another keg containing the dry hops.

Not necessarily - my new toy (yeast harvester) from NorCal enabled me to add dryhops to carbed beer with no O2 exposure. Of course you need the right set up to make this work.

Dry hop added to spunded (15lbs) NEIPA. I did lower pressure a bit so I could push the dry hop back in to fermentor.

 

[ttuato]

Anyone who has used 1272 for this beer, what ferm temps/schedule are you using?

My go to yeast for testing Hops. Doing it “low” will produce subtle esters that not overshadow hops like 1318 does.
64* - four days (almost always hit FG)
68* - two days
70* - two days
58* - three days, add dry hops on second day
Cold crash.

If you want the esters start at 70*-72* - hold for 8 days, drop to 58* for dry hop.

 

[ThePaleAleIndian]

Quick question about the pre-boil pH. I know your results are not going to mirror mine with different water profiles, grains/maltsters etc., but could you let me know what you typically see for untreated pre-boil pH after sparging. I'm wondering what happens when higher pH sparge runoff interacts with the wort from the mash. I don't own a pH meter and use Brun water to produce pretty good beers (usually) and unfortunately a pH meter is not going to be in the budget any time soon. I'm thinking if I hit a mash pH of 5.2, the grains will have a lesser buffer and the sparge may be lets say 5.6. Does that mean you can expect a pre-boil pH of 5.3-5.35 or does it end up being a lot closer to the mash pH of 5.2 once its in the kettle. Based on calculations I think I can treat the pre-boil wort with about 3mL of lactic acid to bring it down to 5.0 if its starting at 5.2, but I really have no idea what preboil pH would look like for certain mashes as I've never seen a calculator for that or read of anyone providing their own personal information.

My pre-boil pH typically ends up pretty close to my mash pH, maybe 0.03-0.05 higher. It depends a lot on your sparging strategy I would think. I do BIAB but I don't do full volume mashes. I mash with 1.25-1.5 qt/lb and then transfer the grain bag to my sparge water and do a sparge "rest" before combining the worts in my kettle. That combined wort before I boil is when I measure pre-boil pH.

 

[tld6008]

Anyone who has used 1272 for this beer, what ferm temps/schedule are you using?

See post 5803, the OP said this yeast worked well.

 

[plazola86]

Quick question about the pre-boil pH. I know your results are not going to mirror mine with different water profiles, grains/maltsters etc., but could you let me know what you typically see for untreated pre-boil pH after sparging. I'm wondering what happens when higher pH sparge runoff interacts with the wort from the mash. I don't own a pH meter and use Brun water to produce pretty good beers (usually) and unfortunately a pH meter is not going to be in the budget any time soon. I'm thinking if I hit a mash pH of 5.2, the grains will have a lesser buffer and the sparge may be lets say 5.6. Does that mean you can expect a pre-boil pH of 5.3-5.35 or does it end up being a lot closer to the mash pH of 5.2 once its in the kettle. Based on calculations I think I can treat the pre-boil wort with about 3mL of lactic acid to bring it down to 5.0 if its starting at 5.2, but I really have no idea what preboil pH would look like for certain mashes as I've never seen a calculator for that or read of anyone providing their own personal information.

I do full volume mash BIAB so my mash PH doesn't change much. I get what your saying about the sparge water and grain buffering effect after the mash but without a PH meter its impossible to tell where your PH is going to be after mashing and sparging. PH calculators have a hard enough time predicting mash PH even after plugging in your exact recipe and water profile. Start saving your pennies for a good PH meter, all the calculators do a fine job but in the end the only real way to measure is to actually pull a sample and see exactly where your at.

 

[troglodytes]

My pre-boil pH typically ends up pretty close to my mash pH, maybe 0.03-0.05 higher. It depends a lot on your sparging strategy I would think. I do BIAB but I don't do full volume mashes. I mash with 1.25-1.5 qt/lb and then transfer the grain bag to my sparge water and do a sparge "rest" before combining the worts in my kettle. That combined wort before I boil is when I measure pre-boil pH.

That's very similar to my sparging process as well as I BIAB, in a mash tun instead using my old manifold. Makes life easier since I use a lot of rye and wheat in my beers, and I get a lot less volume losses. I'm going to estimate that I need to lower my pre-boil pH from 5.25 to 5.0 which estimates to 3.6ml of lactic acid per Brun water. I'll keep it to 3ml to be safe, and even if I don't hit 5.0 I'll be squarely in that 5.0-5.1 window which should be a big improvement over my past batches. This is great info and something I never considered when brewing IPAs and upping my late additions and dry hops.

I've been researching a lot since I started following this thread and read that some people do a quick dose of lactic when adding the dry hops as well to offset the pH rise from the large DH addition. That seems a bit overkill, especially if your beer is nearing FG at a pH of 4.1-4.3 when the DH goes in. At worst I would assume a 0.05 rise in pH which would still land you where you want to be with a dry hoppy ale, right?

Edit: @plazola86 I was thinking about doing a full BIAB no sparge this time around for that exact reason. I also find I'll need less gypsum and lactic if doing it that way, per the calculator. I just don't like the idea of that large of an efficiency drop. I've never actually gone no sparge before, but I can expect an efficiency drop from my norm 72% to around the mid-60s right?

 

[beervoid]

That's very similar to my sparging process as well as I BIAB, in a mash tun instead using my old manifold. Makes life easier since I use a lot of rye and wheat in my beers, and I get a lot less volume losses. I'm going to estimate that I need to lower my pre-boil pH from 5.25 to 5.0 which estimates to 3.6ml of lactic acid per Brun water. I'll keep it to 3ml to be safe, and even if I don't hit 5.0 I'll be squarely in that 5.0-5.1 window which should be a big improvement over my past batches. This is great info and something I never considered when brewing IPAs and upping my late additions and dry hops.

I've been researching a lot since I started following this thread and read that some people do a quick dose of lactic when adding the dry hops as well to offset the pH rise from the large DH addition. That seems a bit overkill, especially if your beer is nearing FG at a pH of 4.1-4.3 when the DH goes in. At worst I would assume a 0.05 rise in pH which would still land you where you want to be with a dry hoppy ale, right?

Edit: @plazola86 I was thinking about doing a full BIAB no sparge this time around for that exact reason. I also find I'll need less gypsum and lactic if doing it that way, per the calculator. I just don't like the idea of that large of an efficiency drop. I've never actually gone no sparge before, but I can expect an efficiency drop from my norm 72% to around the mid-60s right?

I've been playing around with numerous prediction software for a while now and I can say they are pretty unpredictable to rely on for KO PH.
Sometimes they are spot on and sometimes it's a big miss.. My guess is there is so much happening in the boil as well that influences PH.
Massive hops in the whirlpool influence PH and then comes the problem that every yeasts finishes with a different PH as well.
If you wanna do it right you really need to get a PH meter and carefully measure and note PH all along the way.

If you don't have money for an expensive PH meter the cheaper ones will work for a while and then at least you can see what your particular grist and yeast for your batch do and you will be able to anticipate better.

 

[SanPancho]

Actually you can estimate fairly well in kettle. Using either lactic or phosphoric. Aj spelled out the formula here not too long ago. And the hop ph creep is well known, about .15 per gal/bbl.

 

[SRJHops]

These past couple pages are really interesting when it comes to the whirlpool vs dryhop debate. I've attempted several APA/IPAs in the past year with my process shifting toward more and more whirlpool hops coupled with a small FWH and about 4oz dry hop. I have found that my results grew worse the more whirlpool hops I added (try to add at about 180F, but usually its at 170F). Grassy unpleasant flavors all around or vegatal/belgiany flavors is what overpowered nearly all IPAs I've brewed with each one getting worse the more hops I added. The one brew I did that came out mediocre was a Dialed-In clone I attempted (and was great until it was oxidized about 5 weeks post bottling) and that one differed in that it added small hop charges every 7 minutes from 20 minutes to end of boil and had a much larger dry hop than whirlpool. I'll blame that beer's flavor loss on my bottling practices.

But now I'm reading here talk of whirlpooling at 1 oz per gallon and dryhopping at 1.5oz per gallon. If my last 4 IPAs are any indication of success at those rates I will be drinking lawn clippings. I'm obviously doing something wrong although I'm managing my water profile and pH. I'm usually at 150:100 sulfate to chloride with a mash pH of 5.3. I'm barely stirring my whirlpools as to not slosh and get a large amount of O2. I'm using, not fresh, but well stored hops that smell good.

I'm going to brew a version of this as an El Dorado IPA which will be my first batch I keg (which hopefully helps with the O2). My hopping schedule is planned as for 5.5 gallons into the fermenter:

.25 oz Columbus FWH
1 oz Columbus @ 10min
.5 oz Columbus / 1 oz El Dorado @ 5min
1 oz El Dorado / 1 oz Huell Melon @ flameout
2 oz El Dorado / 2 oz Huell Melon whirlpooled for 20min @ 160F
2 oz El Dorado / 2 oz Huell Melon Dry Hop @ day 4
2 oz El Dorado Dry Hop in keg

Honestly, I'm a bit frightened to do this as this is more hops than I've ever used in a batch and my track record with large whirlpooled / dryhopped beers is not good...at all. Am I on the right track or do I need to adjust something?

I was thinking about hop ratios for NEIPA's and your recipe, and it got me wondering if most people try to balance their hop additions, or use different ratios?

I've seen a Juicy Bits recipe (shared by the brewer) that totally balances the hops (33% each of Mosaic, Citra, El Dorado). But I LOVE Toppling Goliath Sosus, and I think it's 100% Mosaic.

I'm brewing this weekend and thinking more like your recipe and going with 50% Mosaic, 30% Citra, and 20% Simcoe. (Or maybe I'll swap the Citra and Mosaic ratios.)

Anyone have thoughts/recommendations? There's equally balanced, single hop, or some ratio (like 50%, 30%, 20%).

Maybe the answer is that as long as you use enough hops it can turn out quite tasty!

 

[Dgallo]

I was thinking about hop ratios for NEIPA's and your recipe, and it got me wondering if most people try to balance their hop additions, or use different ratios?

I've seen a Juicy Bits recipe (shared by the brewer) that totally balances the hops (33% each of Mosaic, Citra, El Dorado). But I LOVE Toppling Goliath Sosus, and I think it's 100% Mosaic.

I'm brewing this weekend and thinking more like your recipe and going with 50% Mosaic, 30% Citra, and 20% Simcoe. (Or maybe I'll swap the Citra and Mosaic ratios.)

Anyone have thoughts/recommendations? There's equally balanced, single hop, or some ratio (like 50%, 30%, 20%).

Maybe the answer is that as long as you use enough hops it can turn out quite tasty!

When creating a hoping ratio I always base it on each hops total oil content and my intended outcome. But there are truly many ways to skin a cat here and it all about personal preference. Taking your hops in consideration. Simcoe is mosaics father... seriously lol. So when mosaic is paired with simcoe, more of its pine and earth characteristics will come through. So if I wanted that profile to be balanced, I would keep the hop ratio as you originally suggested. If I wanted more pine I would drop the mosaic and increase the simcoe. If I wanted to show case the citrus fruit character of the beer, I’d elevate the citra addition.

 

[cheesebach]

Not necessarily - my new toy (yeast harvester) from NorCal enabled me to add dryhops to carbed beer with no O2 exposure. Of course you need the right set up to make this work.

Dry hop added to spunded (15lbs) NEIPA. I did lower pressure a bit so I could push the dry hop back in to fermentor.

View attachment 607455

Do you mind explaining exactly what you’re doing to get the hops into the beer in this setup? Also, doesn’t your Speidel seem like it could explode any minute at 15psi? I was hoping I’d be able to use mine to do pressurized fermentation’s as well, but the bottom of mine starts bulging out at just a few psi which makes the thing unstable as the bottom isn’t flat at that point.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I use 18 ounces regular hops for a 6 gallon batch. Good to know that Pinthouse's Electric Jellyfish uses the same amount!

These NEIPAs are pricey! Our homebrew shop has some hops in larger packets, so that cuts the cost a little, but I am spending around $75 per batch. I get about 25 bombers, and I always figure it's still cheaper than $13 bombers of NEIPA I can purchase at the store!

I do always pay attention to the folks who say less hops is more, but I admit that so far my experience has been the opposite -- more hops gets me closer to Toppling Goliath and the extremely tasty local NEIPA's.

Soon enough you'll be able to compare! Looking at Norther Brewer for bulk prices and see if my boys at LHBS will match. Getting down to $75 for a massive hop bomb sounds like a good goal.

Added 1oz Cryo Citra this morning. Seems improved for sure. After about 10 dumps...feeling pretty ecstatic. As much as a 50yr can get anyway. [emoji39]

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Ah, that probably explains why it’s working well for you but not for me. I don’t apply any pressure early in the fermentation (unless I were trying to avoid yeast ester production).

Did I just learn something? I just did it see how it works and play around with the valve pressure settings. I thought the yeast was a little underwhelming. Chalked it up to simultaneously adding Safale05. Avoiding yeast ester was NOT the goal..

 

[ttuato]

Do you mind explaining exactly what you’re doing to get the hops into the beer in this setup? Also, doesn’t your Speidel seem like it could explode any minute at 15psi? I was hoping I’d be able to use mine to do pressurized fermentation’s as well, but the bottom of mine starts bulging out at just a few psi which makes the thing unstable as the bottom isn’t flat at that point.

• Speidel - I have had it up to 27PSI before testing pressure. Yes it bulges and swells but it never leaked. I have the 20lb spring in the PRV at top. Norcal had similar results testing these. I ferment inside a converted minifridge so the bulge doesnt bother anything.
• It is the yeast harvester from Norcal. Put in hops, loosely attach to fermentor, purge w/ gas a few times, tighten hoses, open flow to allow beer into jar to mix with hops. Let hops rest / swell - then apply gas to push hops back into fermentor. This is basically a hop cannon / hop gun for homebrewers. If you want a video of the process PM me w/ email address and I will send to you.

 

[ttuato]

Interesting thing occurred. While test out my new toy, I sacrificed from “fresh” (from sealed freezer bag) 2017 hops that I did not care for. Add the 9oz hops to a jar mixed with just plain tap water. I set the jar aside and a few days later I was shocked to see it look like this:

The water had turned brown. This got me thinking - maybe all of the “brown neipa” that keep happening is more a function of the high dry hop rather than use of flaked adjuncts. Thoughts?

 

[Dgallo]

Interesting thing occurred. While test out my new toy, I sacrificed from “fresh” (from sealed freezer bag) 2017 hops that I did not care for. Add the 9oz hops to a jar mixed with just plain tap water. I set the jar aside and a few days later I was shocked to see it look like this:
View attachment 607672


The water had turned brown. This got me thinking - maybe all of the “brown neipa” that keep happening is more a function of the high dry hop rather than use of flaked adjuncts. Thoughts?

Yeah, I’ve always attributed it to the oxidation of the polyphenals and chlorophyll in the hop material

 

[ttuato]

Did I just learn something? I just did it see how it works and play around with the valve pressure settings. I thought the yeast was a little underwhelming. Chalked it up to simultaneously adding Safale05. Avoiding yeast ester was NOT the goal..

Learn more here: Beersmith podcast w/ Chris White of White Labs. Topic Pressure Fermentation - http://beersmith.com/blog/2018/01/1...s-white-john-blichmann-beersmith-podcast-163/

 

[SRJHops]

Interesting thing occurred. While test out my new toy, I sacrificed from “fresh” (from sealed freezer bag) 2017 hops that I did not care for. Add the 9oz hops to a jar mixed with just plain tap water. I set the jar aside and a few days later I was shocked to see it look like this:
View attachment 607672


The water had turned brown. This got me thinking - maybe all of the “brown neipa” that keep happening is more a function of the high dry hop rather than use of flaked adjuncts. Thoughts?

Yeah, I concur with Dgallo that it's the phenols. They make the NEIPA's so tasty and hazy, but they also greatly increase the risk of oxidation.

Think of a regular IPA with a "normal" amount of hops. Like the brewing books recommended, I used to transfer them to secondary and then to the bottling bucket, and they didn't oxidize much. Do that to a NEIPA and you are almost certainly going to turn it brown.

Ever since I started doing everything possible to avoid cold side oxygen, including keeping everything in primary for 2 weeks and bottling straight into bombers with sugar tablets, my NEIPA's are turning out SO MUCH better -- and actually getting tastier after a few weeks in the bottle.

 

[ttuato]

Yeah, I concur with Dgallo that it's the phenols. They make the NEIPA's so tasty and hazy, but they also greatly increase the risk of oxidation.

Think of a regular IPA with a "normal" amount of hops. Like the brewing books recommended, I used to transfer them to secondary and then to the bottling bucket, and they didn't oxidize much. Do that to a NEIPA and you are almost certainly going to turn it brown.

Ever since I started doing everything possible to avoid cold side oxygen, including keeping everything in primary for 2 weeks and bottling straight into bombers with sugar tablets, my NEIPA's are turning out SO MUCH better -- and actually getting tastier after a few weeks in the bottle.

I agree it is likely polyphenols in solution that caUsing the browning oxidation. I too do all LODO cold side, but What I (think) learned this go round is that the EXTENDED contact time with hops = more
Oxidation due to excess polyphenols extracted. Here is the beer I brewed recently - soft crashed to 58 after FG, added dry hops, 12hours later dropped to 40 for full crash, kegged after 30hours on hops. This was hydrometer sample. It sat open air for two days as did not brown at all. After those two days, I moved it to this mason jar where it has been for an addditinal four days - so six days in presence of atmospheric O2 - color is exact same as beer from keg.

Lesson for me - shorten hop contact time to improve risk of oxidative matter (polyphenol???) in beer. Now this isn’t necessarily a shocking discovery, but it cements my thinking that keg hopping is bad, and the “bio transformation” hopping can have some negative aspects too due to extended contact time.

 

[Dgallo]

I agree it is likely polyphenols in solution that caUsing the browning oxidation. I too do all LODO cold side, but What I (think) learned this go round is that the EXTENDED contact time with hops = more
Oxidation due to excess polyphenols extracted. Here is the beer I brewed recently - soft crashed to 58 after FG, added dry hops, 12hours later dropped to 40 for full crash, kegged after 30hours on hops. This was hydrometer sample. It sat open air for two days as did not brown at all. After those two days, I moved it to this mason jar where it has been for an addditinal four days - so six days in presence of atmospheric O2 - color is exact same as beer from keg.

Lesson for me - shorten hop contact time to improve risk of oxidative matter (polyphenol???) in beer. Now this isn’t necessarily a shocking discovery, but it cements my thinking that keg hopping is bad, and the “bio transformation” hopping can have some negative aspects too due to extended contact time.
View attachment 608189

Another thing people aren’t exploring is the impact excess chlorophyll will have on oxidation and other negatives /off flavors. With IPAs, especially NE IPA’s, we are crushing these beers with green matter. Think of any leafy green vegetable, they are all green due to chlorophyll and if theyre exposed to moisture or left in water for a prolonged period of time, they will brown. Obviously this is anecdotal, but it is true for all greens, I’m concluding that chlorophyll also plays a role in the oxidation

 

[ttuato]

Another thing people aren’t exploring is the impact excess chlorophyll will have on oxidation and other negatives /off flavors. With IPAs, especially NE IPA’s, we are crushing these beers with green matter. Think of any leafy green vegetable, they are all green due to chlorophyll and if theyre exposed to moisture or left in water for a prolonged period of time, they will brown. Obviously this is anecdotal, but it is true for all greens, I’m concluding that chlorophyll also plays a role in the oxidation

That too!

 

[beervoid]

I agree it is likely polyphenols in solution that caUsing the browning oxidation. I too do all LODO cold side, but What I (think) learned this go round is that the EXTENDED contact time with hops = more
Oxidation due to excess polyphenols extracted. Here is the beer I brewed recently - soft crashed to 58 after FG, added dry hops, 12hours later dropped to 40 for full crash, kegged after 30hours on hops. This was hydrometer sample. It sat open air for two days as did not brown at all. After those two days, I moved it to this mason jar where it has been for an addditinal four days - so six days in presence of atmospheric O2 - color is exact same as beer from keg.

Lesson for me - shorten hop contact time to improve risk of oxidative matter (polyphenol???) in beer. Now this isn’t necessarily a shocking discovery, but it cements my thinking that keg hopping is bad, and the “bio transformation” hopping can have some negative aspects too due to extended contact time.
View attachment 608189

Did you rouse or shake after dry hopping?
Was the beer as pungent as your other beers?

Was it faster drinkable then others?
What was the grainbill?

How did the sample taste after being exposed to o2 for a while?