New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[couchsending]

i guess it's a to each their own thing as usual. i've used idaho 7 hop hash in the whirlpool with others and like it but it wasn't super distinctive.

do you like nugget nectar? i hate that beer and it is supposed to have a lot of nugget. nugget has a super pungent nice aroma in the bag though. i'd try it in the whirlpool but not dryhop i think.

Never had nugget nectar.. it’s a pretty old school malty IPA isn’t it? Ever had Golden Nugget from TG? Pretty awesome beer in my book.

Nugget supposedly has more linalool than any other hop. To me it tends to amplify the fruit aspect of certain hops. You don’t need much of it. In DH 1-1.5oz to 6-7oz of another hop.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Idaho 7 and Citra is one of the best blends I've ever done.

What was your ratio between the two? I did Idaho 7/Denali at 1:1 ratio and it was great, but the Idaho 7 dominated. Which wasn't necessarily a bad thing - I was going for something piney. The black tea flavor came through a lot too. I had neighbors over and they loved that one a lot more than a fruiter IPA I had on tap.

 

[ihavenonickname]

You may want to check out the fermzilla unitank by kegland. I love mine it has really stepped up my neipa brews.

It looks prettyy awesome to me. Crash out the yeast, re use yeast, dry hop as oxygen free as possible in that little chamber, and closed transfer. Very cool. If my ferm chamber had two more inches to fit it, I would get it.

 

[MrPowers]

What was your ratio between the two? I did Idaho 7/Denali at 1:1 ratio and it was great, but the Idaho 7 dominated. Which wasn't necessarily a bad thing - I was going for something piney. The black tea flavor came through a lot too. I had neighbors over and they loved that one a lot more than a fruiter IPA I had on tap.

If you’re wanting to minimize the “tea” character from Idaho 7, I would probably go heavier on Idaho 7 in the whirlpool and then heavier on Citra in the dry hop. Maybe 2:1 whirlpool and 1:2 dryhop Idaho 7:Citra, respectively. Somewhere in that range. Idaho 7 really shines in the whirlpool.

 

[rickyrich]

Some blend of El Dorado, Sabro, Vic Secret would be very Pina Colada like. Heavy on the El Dorado in WP, favor the Vic Secret in the DH. Keep the Sabro to no more than 15% of the Hop bill.

I’ve been really enjoying Simcoe lately. It seems to be very different now than in the past. Stuff I have has very little pine and definitely no cat piss. Almost all Simcoe throughout and then add 20% of either Galaxy or Citra or Azacca to the dry hop would be awesome.

Galaxy/Vic Secret/Ella would be awesome. Ella dominant in DH.

I don’t like Equanot in the dry hop, too much green pepper. Using it hotside seems to eliminate that.

Medusa/Zappa/Sabro could be cool. All have neomexicanus heritage. Again keep the Sabro additions on the low end 15-20% max.

I thought I had more Citra but I only have some Cryo. Doh!

I ended up going 4 oz El Dorado, 1 oz Galaxy, 1 oz Sabro in the WP

Thinking of going 2 oz Vic Secret, 1 oz Galaxy, 1 oz Sabro, 1oz Cryo Citra DH

What do you think of this combo? Should I drop the Citra Cryo and maybe add 2 oz of Ella in the DH instead?

Man... Sabro really does smell like coconut!! The aroma was amazing out of the bag.

 

[Brooothru]

My most recent! New grainbill, used 1318 for the first time in awhile, and hopped with Mosaic/Simcoe/Amarillo.

It’s been in the keg 1 day, 13 days since brewday.

This summer I came across Joe Beer from 10Barrel in Bend, OR. It used to be called S.A.M. Beer for Simcoe, Amarillo, and Mosaic, but a certain 'large Northeastern craft brewer' took issue with the name. So 10Barrel rebranded it for "the common Joe." One of the best IPAs I've ever had.

The recipe looked straightforward enough so I brewed it at home and entered it in a local competition. I overshot my gravity numbers a bit (came out near 8% ABV) so it got entered as an American Strong Ale (double IPA).

Last week it won the Blue Ribbon with a score of 37/50. I think you're gonna' like the hop combo a lot.

Brooo Brother

 

[Frieds]

Did a bit of an online shop and got myself 100g of Sabro, 250g of Cashmere and 300g of Rakau. I want to make a beer that feature the three of them but I haven’t used any of these hops before so I’m looking for advice on amounts/ratios of each for hot side and cold side.

 

[flintoid]

Cashmere is very fruity as a dry hop- it's quite good. A lot of lemon citrus with a hint of melon behind it all. I'd dare say the citrus notes border oranges, but not many pick that up. Pairing it with Sabro will just amplify that. I would bet it'd be a great combo. There is a slight earthy undertone to Cashmere, it's hard to describe. It's almost herbal, raw like.

I dry hopped at 60F with Cashmere and the citrusy aspects really popped. I'd dry hop heavier amounts of Cashmere to the Sabro.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I used Cashmere for the first time along with some Calypso and small amount of Columbus, but it was heavy Cashmere especially in the dry hop. It's pretty good but didn't turn out as fruity as I expected. I do get some citrus, definitely some lemon/lime character coming through but also herbal notes.

 

[Frieds]

Cashmere is very fruity as a dry hop- it's quite good. A lot of lemon citrus with a hint of melon behind it all. I'd dare say the citrus notes border oranges, but not many pick that up. Pairing it with Sabro will just amplify that. I would bet it'd be a great combo. There is a slight earthy undertone to Cashmere, it's hard to describe. It's almost herbal, raw like.

I dry hopped at 60F with Cashmere and the citrusy aspects really popped. I'd dry hop heavier amounts of Cashmere to the Sabro.

Would you use Cashmere predominately as a dry hop then? Say if I add 1:2:1 Sabro/Rakau/Cashmere to the kettle and the 1:1:2 in the dry hop would that work? I’ve read throughout this thread and other sources that Sabro is pretty potent and can overpower other hops if used in too great a quantity.

 

[Dgallo]

Would you use Cashmere predominately as a dry hop then? Say if I add 1:2:1 Sabro/Rakau/Cashmere to the kettle and the 1:1:2 in the dry hop would that work? I’ve read throughout this thread and other sources that Sabro is pretty potent and can overpower other hops if used in too great a quantity.

Yeah I would .5 or .75 the Sabro in your ratio and not the exceed 3 oz in you total hop bill. It’s not just that it can become overpowering, it throws much more cedar/wood notes when used at higher rates. Can be cool for sure with those notes but with the combo you’re useing it seems like your looking more for tropical notes

 

[SRJHops]

Advice needed on dry hopping with Galaxy...

A few batches back I used too much Galaxy in the DH and ended up with an astringent/phenol mess... I've been afraid to use it every since, but I want to try again. I think I will avoid it for the bio-trans addition this time, to try to reduce the phenols in suspension. Here is what I am thinking for the entire DH schedule for 5.5 gallons:

2 oz Citra (day 4, active fermentation)
2 oz Galaxy (day 10 post fermentation)
3 oz Simcoe (day 12, two days prior to bottling)

Any thoughts/advice/feedback/suggestions?

 

[Dgallo]

Advice needed on dry hopping with Galaxy...

A few batches back I used too much Galaxy in the DH and ended up with an astringent/phenol mess... I've been afraid to use it every since, but I want to try again. I think I will avoid it for the bio-trans addition this time, to try to reduce the phenols in suspension. Here is what I am thinking for the entire DH schedule for 5.5 gallons:

2 oz Citra (day 4, active fermentation)
2 oz Galaxy (day 10 post fermentation)
3 oz Simcoe (day 12, two days prior to bottling)

Any thoughts/advice/feedback/suggestions?

I’d honestly eliminate the fermentation dryhop. I’ve moved away from them and have less hop bite because of it. By doing that and dropping the yeast prior to dryhoping I have yet to have any genuine hop Burn in the last 4 batches

 

[flintoid]

I’d honestly eliminate the fermentation dryhop. I’ve moved away from them and have less hop bite because of it. By doing that and dropping the yeast prior to dryhoping I have yet to have any genuine hop Burn in the last 4 batches

This. A Simcoe / Galaxy / CTZ Pilsen based NEIPA just finished carbonating. A combo of 6oz Simcoe 4oz Galaxy for a 72hr dry hop and a 1oz ctz bio dry hop did well. Simcoe overpowers the galaxy by a lot, but the complexity I dig.

The cold crash takes a lot of the whirlpool flavors out of suspension. The yeast drags it out. The finished wort out of my primary tasted much more hop rich than this does after a soft crash. This is clean and very nice, though. When I soft crash it reminds of of Hill Farmstead offerings.

1oz ctz 2oz simcoe and Galaxy whirlpool... With soft crashing I will probably move away from "designer hops" in the WP.

 

[SRJHops]

I’d honestly eliminate the fermentation dryhop. I’ve moved away from them and have less hop bite because of it. By doing that and dropping the yeast prior to dryhoping I have yet to have any genuine hop Burn in the last 4 batches

Thanks. Been thinking about that...

 

[ihavenonickname]

The cold crash takes a lot of the whirlpool flavors out of suspension. The yeast drags it out. The finished wort out of my primary tasted much more hop rich than this does after a soft crash..
View attachment 645896

Makes me wonder, has anyone tried this style using a hop tea added to the keg?

 

[Dgallo]

Makes me wonder, has anyone tried this style using a hop tea added to the keg?

I have in the past when I was bottling. I used to use a French press and everything but I think that just added to my oxidation issues. I’ve recently look at the new distilled hop oils that can be added at kegging. http://glacierhopsranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/2-hopzoil-profiles-pkgs-0519-1.pdf

 

[BeerFst]

I have in the past when I was bottling. I used to use a French press and everything but I think that just added to my oxidation issues. I’ve recently look at the new distilled hop oils that can be added at kegging. http://glacierhopsranch.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/2-hopzoil-profiles-pkgs-0519-1.pdf

What’s the dose per gallon? Are these the same ones where one drop was potent as hell?

They really expanded the selection if so, I only recall chinook and one or two others that escape me

 

[Dgallo]

What’s the dose per gallon? Are these the same ones where one drop was potent as hell?

They really expanded the selection if so, I only recall chinook and one or two others that escape me

I have no idea. I didn’t word my post correctly. I meant like I’ve been looking in to trying these soon since they seem interesting

 

[BeerFst]

I have no idea. I didn’t word my post correctly. I meant like I’ve been looking in to trying these soon since they seem interesting

http://glacierhopsranch.com/hopzoil/

This page says 2ml/bbl.....so yea crazy potent....this is exciting

 

[turbo 6]

Currently fermenting a NEIPA with a El Dorado and Vic Secret....my dilemma is I’d like to dry hop (after fermentation and dropping the yeast) with Sabro. I also have Galaxy too. Which would be better?

 

[Hannabrew]

Slightly off topic but I think this is the right crowd to potentially help.

Had a 6 month old overbuilt starter of 1318 that I decided to build up via a blonde ale (which I planned on DHing). This is the oldest yeast I've tried using so I'm in uncharted territory for me. I usually always use healthy yeast.

I made a 1L starter with it and there was about 24-36 hour lag time but eventually it picked up and flocked out. I didn't take a FG.

I then decanted it and pitched it into a 1.050 blonde a day later with 90s pure O2 and nutrient.

The main batch had a decent lag time too but I attributed that to pitching at 63. I let it free rise to 172 from there.

Fast forward a week later and it has stalled at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014 or lower (144/148/154/162 mash).

I'm adding some Energizer and rousing the fermenter and it seems to be doing something however my bigger concern is the beer smells and tastes like I used Belgian yeast.

Has anybody gotten Belgian-type esters from 1318 when under-pitched? Think it will clean up if I can restart fermentation?

 

[Andre3000]

Currently fermenting a NEIPA with a El Dorado and Vic Secret....my dilemma is I’d like to dry hop (after fermentation and dropping the yeast) with Sabro. I also have Galaxy too. Which would be better?

I just tried a Sabro fresh hop at Lagunitas and holy smokes, who ever said coconut was not messing around. Absolute coconut bomb.

I've got a pound of it but I haven't used it yet. And after drinking that beer I'm going to be very hesitant about adding it to an NEIPA for fear of it ruining it. If you're adventurous, try the Sabro, if not, Galaxy might be more conservative (just don't overdo it). My two cents!

 

[turbo 6]

I was thinking of splitting the Galaxy and Sabro. I’ve used it before in a NEIPA and it came out really good.

 

[Hannabrew]

For sabro I would start with 10 to 15% of the dry hop and increase from there as needed. I have never found a need to use more than an ounce and you definitely can overdo it

 

[Genuine]

This Thursday I’ll be brewing up another batch for my annual Halloween Party. Going to do 2oz each of Citra, mosaic, and Amarillo and then dry hop 2oz with Citra, Nelson sauvin and Amarillo. From what I’ve read it should be delicious!

 

[rickyrich]

Pulled a sample from fermenter... First time using Imperial Dry Hop and malted oats... I am sold on both! This is the most attenuation I’ve ever achieved on a NEIPA.

Heavy El Dorado w/ an ounce each of Galaxy and Sabro in WP. DH was Galaxy, Vic Secret, Ella, and a touch of Sabro.

The aroma is heavy tropical fruit, a bit of dank w/ coconut on the back end.

I added Cryo Citra to the keg for shits and giggles.

I cannot wait til this is carbed!! Thanks guys for all the great info.

 

[Genuine]

View attachment 646391

Pulled a sample from fermenter... First time using Imperial Dry Hop and malted oats... I am sold on both! This is the most attenuation I’ve ever achieved on a NEIPA.

Damn! I'm debating on using either Imperial's Juice or Dry hop for my next batch. Have you used Juice? If so, how would you compare it?

 

[rickyrich]

Damn! I'm debating on using either Imperial's Juice or Dry hop for my next batch. Have you used Juice? If so, how would you compare it?

I have. I can probably make a better comparison after it’s carbed and ready to drink. However, as far as the yeast performance... It’s been great and I plan on using going forward over Juice.

 

[Dgallo]

Damn! I'm debating on using either Imperial's Juice or Dry hop for my next batch. Have you used Juice? If so, how would you compare it?

Juice is Imperial’s London III so it’s really a preference of what yeast profile you like. I personally love A24 -dryhop. The blend really just helps hit and enhance the overall hop character of the beer. Calling it dryhop is perfectly fitting

 

[MaCheFai]

Juice is Imperial’s London III so it’s really a preference of what yeast profile you like. I personally love A24 -dryhop. The blend really just helps hit and enhance the overall hop character of the beer. Calling it dryhop is perfectly fitting

Have a batch 1/2 way through fermentation now w/ A24. So far, the smell out of the fermentor isn't as peachy/mango sweet as 1318. It seems more like candied orange. I know that means very little at this point, but just found it interesting as a comparison.

 

[Hannabrew]

Juice is Imperial’s London III so it’s really a preference of what yeast profile you like. I personally love A24 -dryhop. The blend really just helps hit and enhance the overall hop character of the beer. Calling it dryhop is perfectly fitting

My only issue with A24 is how to make it last for more than one pitch. I hate pitching full starters and from what I remember it is not recommended to decant this strain due to the blend. How are you guys making the $12 pitch earn it's money?

 

[VirginiaHops1]

My only issue with A24 is how to make it last for more than one pitch. I hate pitching full starters and from what I remember it is not recommended to decant this strain due to the blend. How are you guys making the $12 pitch earn it's money?

I harvested the yeast cake into 3 mason jars and have subsequently pitched 2 of those directly into new batches, one a pale ale that's carbing up currently and one I literally just pitched this morning. I'm not going to push it any further than that but I figure getting 3-4 batches out of it is good enough.

 

[BeerFst]

My only issue with A24 is how to make it last for more than one pitch. I hate pitching full starters and from what I remember it is not recommended to decant this strain due to the blend. How are you guys making the $12 pitch earn it's money?

overbuilt my first starter and just saved 400ml or so without decanting. i plan to pitch that whole thing into a new starter for my next brew, overbuild again and repeat. It took a while but after 4+ weeks on the top shelf of the fridge it seems to have dropped very clear, so the A20 portion will eventually make it down.

Interestingly i just finished a starter of A15, and saved an overbuilt portion (this one was decanted) but its very reluctant to drop clear.

 

[MaCheFai]

My only issue with A24 is how to make it last for more than one pitch. I hate pitching full starters and from what I remember it is not recommended to decant this strain due to the blend. How are you guys making the $12 pitch earn it's money?

I'm using a hop canister for the first time for dry hopping. Can just wash and repitch.

 

[Dgallo]

Have a batch 1/2 way through fermentation now w/ A24. So far, the smell out of the fermentor isn't as peachy/mango sweet as 1318. It seems more like candied orange. I know that means very little at this point, but just found it interesting as a comparison.

They are both different strains so they should be different. As always preference is an individual thing. That being said what temps are you running A24?

 

[MaCheFai]

They are both different strains so they should be different. As always preference is an individual thing. That being said what temps are you running A24?

Yeah, for sure! Was just reporting on my impressions between the 2 so far since they're going into the same style beer.

So I pitched at 70, let it slowly drop to 68 where I held it for 2 days. I then DH'd and raised it to 72, where it's been for 4 days. The Tilt's looking like it may be done. So I was going to drop it back down to 68 and let it ride for a few days before I soft crash and DH again.

 

[Dgallo]

Yeah, for sure! Was just reporting on my impressions between the 2 so far since they're going into the same style beer.

So I pitched at 70, let it slowly drop to 68 where I held it for 2 days. I then DH'd and raised it to 72, where it's been for 4 days. The Tilt's looking like it may be done. So I was going to drop it back down to 68 and let it ride for a few days before I soft crash and DH again.

Gotcha. I usually run it warmer than that around day 3.5-5.5 and push it to 75/76 to stress the yeast a little further but you should still be fine with it.

If your tilt is showing you’re done than I’d keep at 70-72 for about 3 days so the yeast clean it up properly.

Keep us posted with your experience!

 

[ttuato]

I have an experiment to share with you all. There have been several experiments about oats vs wheat in neipa - usually flaked variety, But I have yet to stumble across malted oats vs wheat malt. I decided to do my own. I brewed two seperate small batch neipas:

80% TF Golden Promise
18% Crisp Malted Oats or Weyerman White Wheat Malt
2% Honey Malt
(Normally I decrease oats and use chit but I did not want to skew the foam/body comparison)

1oz gal WP of Citra
1oz gal dryhop of Citra on Day 3

Since these were small batches I could not do my usual cold side LODO but I figured it would be okay since each would have roughly the equivalent exposure to oxygen. After 24hrs dryhop (still some SG left), I transferred each to a uKeg to spund w/ a CO2 cylinder for backup. In day 14, no discernible difference, day 21 - oat had better mouthfeel & foam (shaving cream vs big bubbles for wheat) and malted oats slightly darker.

Here is day 28 - the difference in oxidation characteristics is shocking. Malted oats is much darker, the hops aroma has taken a huge hit BUT the mouthfeel & foam are significantly more "desirable". Malted wheat batch has okay foam that lingers for a minute and thin body, but the hop aroma & flavors are popping like crazy vs stale/oxidized for the malted oats brew.

I was originally planning to take pics every two weeks up till 8, but I feel like this is enough data for me to stop the experiment.

I have still have some malted oats to work through, but I will not be using in the future. I plan to switch to flaked barley for the body/head component after that and test again vs wheat malt.

Tangent - Another thing I am trying to quantify is the impact of polyphenols in hops on mouthfeel. The brew I made a while back that was solo dryhop of 1.5oz per gal of galaxy (known for high polyphenols) had the best mouthfeel of any beer I have ever made. It had malted oats but it was a split batch and the other had el dorado, citra, mosaic dryhop - the mouthfeel/body wasnt even close to the galaxy batch.

Cheers!

 

[couchsending]

Just remember that English malts are already much lower in protein than say standard American 2 row. A high protein base malt and some carafoam and you don’t need any adjuncts. If you hit the correct mash temps you’ll have a nice creamy body with haze and hop/flavor that will last longer.