New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[TimmyWit]

I'm still not convinced on the bucket vs glass O2 penetration. There's so much positive pressure why doesn't the co2 permeate out? However, if all else fails I'll try glass.

You don't have to move to glass. I would actually recommend better bottle. They're cheaper and much safer while also less permeable to O2 than the plastic buckets.

If you check out this chart, your bucket (HDPE) is 10 times more O2 permeable than a Better Bottle (PET).

http://www.evergreen-packaging.com/en/shownews.asp?id=70

edit: you don't have to go with Better Bottle so long as it's PET. I'm a fan of the Big Mouth Bubbler. The wide opening makes it easy to do dry hop additions or anything else you want to put in there. They're also easy to clean.

 

[tld6008]

absolutely! i never really had problems with diacetyl, but then once i started doing a lot of NEIPAs, I started getting it here and there. I think it was related to not letting the beer sit long enough before kegging. I also have a theory it is related to oxygen getting in during the cold crash, but I am not too sure about that at all. I tried to mitigate that by using a piece of copper wire wrapped around the lip of the carboy that i attach rubber bands onto to hold down my bung very tightly while cold crashing. I haven't had the guts to try to rack warm for a long time. I always had clogging. maybe i will be better off now that i use an autosiphon filter. the hops on top never seem to drop completely for me unless i crash.

I am lost trying to imagine what you are doing with copper wire and rubber bands.
This is my thought on preventing O2 getting in during cold crashing. When I ferment I always use a 1/2" hose connected to the inner opening of single air lock (cap and inner cup removed) My hose is at least 6 ft long and ends up in a heavy flower vase with starsan. All this is in a kegerator. Before starting the cold crash the hose is full of co2 from fermentation off-gassing and since I only crash to get the hops to drop I don't go below 50 degrees so when the hops have dropped there is a column of starsan sucked partway up into the hose from the vase from the vacuum created by the shrinking beer volume in the carboy, no o2 in the fermentor yet. When I pull the hose out of the starsan the fluid runs up the hose until the pressures are equalized. I then pull the airlock from the bung and cover with foil. Once removed from kegerator I have to transfer to keg before the beer warms up as the hops will start to rise again. If I crash to lower temps the starsan will run up into the carboy when the lower end of the hose is removed from the vase due to the greater pressure differential. This might sound confusing but it is very simple.

 

[GnenieGone]

I've seen the PET vs HDPE test. But haven't seen a partial pressure test. How much does the weight of the wort and CO2 partial pressure affect the permeability of O2?

**** it..I'll just buy one of these..

 

[stickyfinger]

I am lost trying to imagine what you are doing with copper wire and rubber bands.
.

sorry. i forgot i posted a thread about it:

Excellent way to hold on stoppers, airlocks, blowoff setups
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...on-stoppers,-airlocks,-blowoff-setups.636587/

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

IMO his biggest problem regarding oxidation is that he's using an plastic bucket instead of a carboy which is more permeable by O2. I can appreciate that other styles come out fine that way. But, other styles can also be bottled without going south.

I can honestly disagree with this statement. I use plastic Ale Pails and have for 8 years, never had an issue with oxidation.

 

[TimmyWit]

I can honestly disagree with this statement. I use plastic Ale Pails and have for 8 years, never had an issue with oxidation.

Like I said, I don't disagree that a bucket is perfectly fine for most styles. @PianoMan can attest to that himself. He never had an issue until he started brewing NE IPA's. There are plenty of folks who have been bottling for years and never had a problem with oxidation either until they tried to bottle a NE IPA.

This style is different. It's more prone to oxidation. With that, there are plenty of variables in play as well such as process, grain bill and yeast. Also consider that his threshold to detect oxidation may be lower than yours.

Someone did a great experiment a few pages back where they split a batch between a keg and bottles. I was amazed at those results so I held on to that pic -

All I'm saying is that he has been struggling with oxidation specifically in NE IPA's. At this point, he's trying to eliminate any possible source of O2 in his setup. If it was me, a $25 stab at it would be a no-brainer. It may or may not eliminate his issue but the worst case scenario is that he acquires an extra FV.

 

[GnenieGone]

I'm thinking about building a reinforced poly box using 1in thick sheets epoxied together, hook up a vacuum pump, and add some gloves to do transfer. My other thought was a CO2 pressurized walk in closet with an air mask, but one slip and out..end..kaput.

 

[doogie]

Wow, that is a great photo. I made 5 gallons that looked like the one on the right. Everything was looking good until I went to transfer into my keg. I set up my auto-siphon and started doing other things while it transferred. I came back downstairs 5 minutes later and heard a funny noise (the sound of my beer being ruined) the hops had slowed the flow into the siphon (but not stopped), but the pull of the siphon was so great that it was pulling air from the auto part of the siphon and into the beer flow, very effectively oxidizing the entire batch. I stopped the flow and cleared the siphon, but the damage was done. It only took a day or two before it looked like the glass on the right. I guess this is good for my septic tank.

I made this the trigger to get an Anvil 7.5 gal SS fermenter and my first batch through it was another NEIPA. It has been on tap for 4 weeks and is just starting to show the first signs of oxidation. This batch I transferred normally and immediately purged the headspace a half dozen times. The only reason there is any left is due to the stupid cold I got a week ago. I think as long as I am careful not to do anything stupid I think this is good enough for me.

 

[ryanm8]

I use a plastic fermenter and bottle my NEIPA's. Since I started purging the headspace with CO2, they have held up fine. I've went 4-6 weeks with no noticeable change in color. They are all gone by that point so I haven't went longer.

Before purging with CO2 they would turn dark, but not in 4 days. Sounds like something else is going on there. Maybe has something to do with the grains used?

 

[SailorJerry]

While we've only done two NEIPA's, both of ours were fermented in buckets, transferred into the keg, with the lid off, using an auto-siphon out of fermentation bucket. Both pushed 5 weeks, maybe 6 on the first one (fall harvest, wasn't home to drink it) without any color changes. Maybe dumb luck? That's what I'll chalk it up to.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

Like I said, I don't disagree that a bucket is perfectly fine for most styles. @PianoMan can attest to that himself. He never had an issue until he started brewing NE IPA's. There are plenty of folks who have been bottling for years and never had a problem with oxidation either until they tried to bottle a NE IPA.

This style is different. It's more prone to oxidation. With that, there are plenty of variables in play as well such as process, grain bill and yeast. Also consider that his threshold to detect oxidation may be lower than yours.

Someone did a great experiment a few pages back where they split a batch between a keg and bottles. I was amazed at those results so I held on to that pic -

All I'm saying is that he has been struggling with oxidation specifically in NE IPA's. At this point, he's trying to eliminate any possible source of O2 in his setup. If it was me, a $25 stab at it would be a no-brainer. It may or may not eliminate his issue but the worst case scenario is that he acquires an extra FV.

All I'm saying is that after brewing 40 gallons of NEIPA as of December 2017 I have never had this problem. Whether the NEIPAs were bottled or kegged. I don't claim to have an answer to the stated problem. But from my own NEIPA brewing experience using plastic Ale Pails, I think you should be looking elsewhere for the root cause.

Sloop Juice Bomb clone brewed and bottled in November 2017, poured earlier this week.

 

[grassfeeder]

All I'm saying is that after brewing 40 gallons of NEIPA as of December 2017 I have never had this problem. Whether the NEIPAs were bottled or kegged. I don't claim to have an answer to the stated problem. But from my own NEIPA brewing experience using plastic Ale Pails, I think you should be looking elsewhere for the root cause.

View attachment 555170

Sloop Juice Bomb clone brewed and bottled in November 2017, poured earlier this week.

Fully agree. Plastic buckets are not the cause for oxidation.

 

[pshankstar]

All I'm saying is that after brewing 40 gallons of NEIPA as of December 2017 I have never had this problem. Whether the NEIPAs were bottled or kegged. I don't claim to have an answer to the stated problem. But from my own NEIPA brewing experience using plastic Ale Pails, I think you should be looking elsewhere for the root cause.

View attachment 555170

Sloop Juice Bomb clone brewed and bottled in November 2017, poured earlier this week.

That looks tasty!!! Could you please share the clone recipe or PM it to me? Thanks!!

 

[motosapiens]

I'm not sure if this oxidation thing is a thing or not. My previous versions haven't exhibited any darkening, but my double with 6 oz of dry hops (2 oz of that being whole hops) may be. I better go open one and check. I think my strategy is going to just be to drink them up hella fast. So far I've gone 6-8 weeks in bottle without any noticeable darkening, but it's still better when kegged and force-carbonated as fresh as possible.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

That looks tasty!!! Could you please share the clone recipe or PM it to me? Thanks!!

The inspiration for my take on Sloop Brewing's Juice Bomb IPA came from an article I read in Zymurgy magazine. The recipe was made public and published on Brewer's Friend. On my BIAB system it takes 45 minutes of whirlpooling, starting at flameout, for the wort to cool to 170F. The rate of wort cooling will vary, depending on each brewer's equipment and their brewing process.

My approach completely eliminates the need for boil hop additions. Whirlpooling contributes hop bitterness, flavor and aroma. Three days into fermentation the addition of dry hops adds additional aroma. Without getting into the science behind the creation of a permanent chill haze in beer. This process works every time. The interaction of yeast during active fermentation, with the hops in the wort are a perfect storm for creating a permanent chill haze. And remember, do not to add Whirlfloc or other fining agents to this beer.

 

[jpLV]

I'm happy to report I'm fairly satisfied with finally being able to brew this style. Like others Ive had issues but I finally got a closed transfer set up for kegging that works. Things went great and I was feeling pretty confident the batch should turn out. A few days after force carbing the keg I have to say I was disappointed. Not because it was oxidized but because honestly the aroma and flavor just were there. Well fast forward to a week sitting at normal serving pressure my first pour was great. Finally getting that fruity juice aroma and flavor is also on point. Lesson learned, sometimes have to be patient with these beers.

 

[tld6008]

The inspiration for my take on Sloop Brewing's Juice Bomb IPA came from an article I read in Zymurgy magazine. The recipe was made public and published on Brewer's Friend. On my BIAB system it takes 45 minutes of whirlpooling, starting at flameout, for the wort to cool to 170F. The rate of wort cooling will vary, depending on each brewer's equipment and their brewing process.

My approach completely eliminates the need for boil hop additions. Whirlpooling contributes hop bitterness, flavor and aroma. Three days into fermentation the addition of dry hops adds additional aroma. Without getting into the science behind the creation of a permanent chill haze in beer. This process works every time. The interaction of yeast during active fermentation, with the hops in the wort are a perfect storm for creating a permanent chill haze. And remember, do not to add Whirlfloc or other fining agents to this beer.

Very interesting, how about sharing your recipe? It is obviously different from the Brewers Friend clone as you boil no hops.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

Sure thing, here it is. This recipe is for a 10 gallon batch so scale it down to work with your batch size. Mash at 148F for 60 minutes, then whirlpool from 210F to 170F (approximately 45 minutes on my system). I pitch 4 White Labs - English Ale Yeast WLP002 (Pure Pitch packets) and add dry hops 3 days into active fermentation.

 

[pearljam1984]

Brewing another variation this weekend.
Mixing it up a bit based on some recent examples I have tasted and different hops to try from Yakima valley. Also received in my new larger mash tun!

6.5 Gallons
OG-1.062
FG- 1.014(ideally)
Mash in at 151. Batch sparge.
10lbs- Golden promise (77%)
2lbs- flaked oats (15%)
1lbs- golden naked oats (8%)

Yeast- 1318

30min- CTZ - 1oz

Flameout/180- 1.0oz equal additions of Azacca, Citra, Mosaic, Hallertau Blanc, Calypso.

Day 3-Dry Hop #1- 1.0oz equal amounts of Mosaic, Azacca, Hallertau Blanc, El Dorado.

Day7- Dry Hop #2- 1.0oz equal amounts of Mosaic, Azacca, Hallertau Blanc, El Dorado.

Total hops- 14oz. (Undecided at this point if I’ll do any keg hopping as I purchased a new keg Hop filter)

Water-standard profile I always use for mouthfeel. start out with RO and add to get to SO4 75, CL 150.

Going to turn around in 14 Days, unless an issue comes up. Haven’t used golden promise in this style, however I have tasted it. Really thought it added some depth. Usually throw in white wheat malt as well, replaced with golden naked oats. Looking forward to it!

Brew day went off well. Pitched 1318 at about 66 degrees. OG was at 1.058, which was a little lower than expected but close. First time using the new mash tun. Not dialed in yet.

On another note- I have successfully used buckets for fermentation and not had an issue with oxidation. The couple times I have had the issue with oxidation is when kegging and clogging dip tube. Having to open it back up as a last resort. Resulted in batch going bad. Fermentation buckets work great while waiting to upgrade.

 

[ba-brewer]

On my BIAB system it takes 45 minutes of whirlpooling, starting at flameout, for the wort to cool to 170F. The rate of wort cooling will vary, depending on each brewer's equipment and their brewing process.

To get such a slow decrease in temp I am assuming you do not actively cooling the wort and just letting it naturally cool.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

To get such a slow decrease in temp I am assuming you do not actively cooling the wort and just letting it naturally cool.

You are correct. I continuously recirculate the wort until the temperature drops to 170F.

 

[VT_jlee]

Here's my latest. Grain bill I've settled on is:

37.5% Pils
37.5% Golden Promise
15% Flaked oats
10% Wheat malt

Bittering hops are between 35-40 IBUs.

Post boil hopping for this batch:
@ Flame Out: 1 oz each Mosaic/Citra/Galaxy
@ 170F: 1 oz each Mosaic/Citra/Galaxy
@ 48 Hours into fermentation: 2 oz Mosaic, 1 oz Citra, 1 oz Galaxy
@ keg hop: 1 oz each Mosaic and Citra lupulin powder

Fermented with Imperial Dry Hop

This one is pretty much perfect... thanks Brau for all that you do!!

 

[grassfeeder]

Here's my latest. Grain bill I've settled on is:

37.5% Pils
37.5% Golden Promise
15% Flaked oats
10% Wheat malt

Bittering hops are between 35-40 IBUs.

Post boil hopping for this batch:
@ Flame Out: 1 oz each Mosaic/Citra/Galaxy
@ 170F: 1 oz each Mosaic/Citra/Galaxy
@ 48 Hours into fermentation: 2 oz Mosaic, 1 oz Citra, 1 oz Galaxy
@ keg hop: 1 oz each Mosaic and Citra lupulin powder

Fermented with Imperial Dry Hop

This one is pretty much perfect... thanks Brau for all that you do!!

View attachment 555369

I would love to see what difference you have by just eliminating the keg hoping and doing that as a secondary dry hop instead. I know this is just me by I personally am not a fan of keg hoping.

 

[sjfischr]

There’s nothing like that first pour from the keg...that you dump out because it’s all yeast. And the second. And the third.

But the fourth pour, aw yeah—that’s when it’s money. Seeing that golden hue and the beautiful opacity is something to take in.

 

[VT_jlee]

I would love to see what difference you have by just eliminating the keg hoping and doing that as a secondary dry hop instead. I know this is just me by I personally am not a fan of keg hoping.

Honestly I've never not keg hopped this style. What don't you like about keg hops? Have you keg hopped with cryo hops?

 

[stickyfinger]

Honestly I've never not keg hopped this style. What don't you like about keg hops? Have you keg hopped with cryo hops?

keg hops don't taste as good as hops added during primary to me. my friend loves the taste of keg hops. it's just personal preference...

 

[stickyfinger]

I did the impossible (well, not impossible but maybe insane) and tried a new yeast in an NEIPA, W-34/70. Yes, a lager yeast. Upon racking to keg, I have to say that it tastes incredible, very juicy and just a little lagery/minerally that tastes very nice. I hope it tastes good after carbonating and chilling.

I also decided to rack this one using a racking cane instead of my autosiphon to see if it reduces oxygen uptake at all. I also racked it warm instead of cold crashing.

 

[grassfeeder]

Honestly I've never not keg hopped this style. What don't you like about keg hops? Have you keg hopped with cryo hops?

I just have found hat if I properly dry hop and have a solid transfer than I shouldn't have to keg hop. I try to keep my process as close to a nano/small brewery as possible and I don't know of any of them doing such a thing. I also don't like the extra clean up.

Not knocking it, just haven't seen a need. My experience with cryo has always been in whirlpool/dry hopping only.

 

[stickyfinger]

I just have found hat if I properly dry hop and have a solid transfer than I shouldn't have to keg hop. I try to keep my process as close to a nano/small brewery as possible and I don't know of any of them doing such a thing. I also don't like the extra clean up.

Not knocking it, just haven't seen a need. My experience with cryo has always been in whirlpool/dry hopping only.

dude, i think this is just one of those things that we need to leave up to individual taste. yes, some people love putting hops into the keg and some people think it ruins the beer. it will never be resolved. I have used the technique to turn a very mediocre beer into a presentable beer, but I personally would not use it on most beers. To me it gives a more dank-vegetal character that is somewhat indiscriminant of hop variety (ie you could add almost any hop and it gives a similar kind of danky-vegtal keg hop flavor to me.) That being said, I never really liked it and so have not experimented with it much at all. Maybe others have stronger opinions and good techniques. I'd be interested to know if any particular hop varieties lend themselves to keg hopping in particular and seem to shine. My favorite that I have ever used in a keg hop is Citra. I hated Apollo and some others in keg hop.

 

[VT_jlee]

dude, i think this is just one of those things that we need to leave up to individual taste. yes, some people love putting hops into the keg and some people think it ruins the beer. it will never be resolved. I have used the technique to turn a very mediocre beer into a presentable beer, but I personally would not use it on most beers. To me it gives a more dank-vegetal character that is somewhat indiscriminant of hop variety (ie you could add almost any hop and it gives a similar kind of danky-vegtal keg hop flavor to me.) That being said, I never really liked it and so have not experimented with it much at all. Maybe others have stronger opinions and good techniques. I'd be interested to know if any particular hop varieties lend themselves to keg hopping in particular and seem to shine. My favorite that I have ever used in a keg hop is Citra. I hated Apollo and some others in keg hop.

If you are up for experimenting, you should try keg hopping with cryo hops. It's straight lupulin powder with all vegetal matter removed from the pellet so it's entirely different experience than keg hopping with normal pellets.

They are more expensive, but due to their potency you only use half as much as normal pellet hops.

https://www.homebrewing.org/Citra-LupuLN2-Cryo-Hops-Pellet-1-oz_p_7433.html

 

[stickyfinger]

If you are up for experimenting, you should try keg hopping with cryo hops. It's straight lupulin powder with all vegetal matter removed from the pellet so it's entirely different experience than keg hopping with normal pellets.

They are more expensive, but due to their potency you only use half as much as normal pellet hops.

https://www.homebrewing.org/Citra-LupuLN2-Cryo-Hops-Pellet-1-oz_p_7433.html

I have used Cryohops in a primary dryhop and in the kettle. I use them a lot in the kettle, and they are great there, half the hops to suck up wort. One dry hop worked well and the other was underwhelming with Cryo, so I guess it must have been the beer. Anyway, I am up for trying them in the keg. What is your exact usual method and hop amount, bags, timing, etc.?

 

[GnenieGone]

If you are up for experimenting, you should try keg hopping with cryo hops.

Read up on the MadFermentaitionalist and he uses Cryo Hops with knee highs/marbels. Don't think one can argue with him. That's the plan for the next attempt. Along with every suggestion given recently...[emoji39]

 

[VT_jlee]

I have used Cryohops in a primary dryhop and in the kettle. I use them a lot in the kettle, and they are great there, half the hops to suck up wort. One dry hop worked well and the other was underwhelming with Cryo, so I guess it must have been the beer. Anyway, I am up for trying them in the keg. What is your exact usual method and hop amount, bags, timing, etc.?

Here's my process for keg hopping:
1. Do closed transfer as normal
2. Set keezer pressure to 35-40psi for 24 hours
3. Come back after the 24 hour burst carb and sanitize a hop bag from wilser brewer (usually just a soak in iodophor, but I do boil them ever few uses)
4. Add up to 2 oz of cryo hops to hop bag and tie it off, add hops to keg and purge keg headspace 6-10 times
5. Set keg to serving pressure

I started doing this method as burst carbing will get a good amount of CO2 dissolved into the beer which I assume helps protect the beer from oxidation... I have no studies suggesting that but it's something that sounded good to me.

Read up on the MadFermentaitionalist and he uses Cryo Hops with knee highs/marbels. Don't think one can argue with him. That's the plan for the next attempt. Along with every suggestion given recently...[emoji39]

Yeah, I love his blog - I actually took his homebrewing class years ago before I started brewing myself. I think the fact that he evangelizes keg hopping for this style so much it's seared into my brain!

 

[stickyfinger]

Here's my process for keg hopping:
1. Do closed transfer as normal
2. Set keezer pressure to 35-40psi for 24 hours
3. Come back after the 24 hour burst carb and sanitize a hop bag from wilser brewer (usually just a soak in iodophor, but I do boil them ever few uses)
4. Add up to 2 oz of cryo hops to hop bag and tie it off, add hops to keg and purge keg headspace 6-10 times
5. Set keg to serving pressure

I started doing this method as burst carbing will get a good amount of CO2 dissolved into the beer which I assume helps protect the beer from oxidation... I have no studies suggesting that but it's something that sounded good to me.



Yeah, I love his blog - I actually took his homebrewing class years ago before I started brewing myself. I think the fact that he evangelizes keg hopping for this style so much it's seared into my brain!

is the hop bag just tossed into the keg or do you suspend it from the lid opening with dental floss?

 

[VT_jlee]

is the hop bag just tossed into the keg or do you suspend it from the lid opening with dental floss?

I just drop it in. Here's a video of my process https://www.instagram.com/p/BYXDXf1Byml/?taken-by=foxridgebrewery

 

[stickyfinger]

I just drop it in. Here's a video of my process https://www.instagram.com/p/BYXDXf1Byml/?taken-by=foxridgebrewery

opening the keg makes me cringe a little bit, but i guess it seems to work ok with the CO2 above the liquid. I assume you purge it a few times after adding the hop sack?

 

[VT_jlee]

opening the keg makes me cringe a little bit, but i guess it seems to work ok with the CO2 above the liquid. I assume you purge it a few times after adding the hop sack?

Yeah, I purge 6-10 times after dropping the hop bag in.

Also, I don't normally keep the lid open that long. I'm usually pretty quick about it but my social media manager (aka my wife) wanted a shot of the bag in the keg for artistic effect.

 

[crusader1612]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/raspberry-vanilla-coconut-chocolate-with-hops.644232/

something for people to comment on if interested. NE IPA related.

 

[iancanderson]

Hey @Braufessor - I just wanted to finally post and say thank you for sharing your knowledge and recipes. I just got my first competition medal (3rd place!) at Boston's Boss Hop IPA competition in the New England IPA category using a variation of your recipe. It was by far the most popular category in the competition (46 entries), so I'm very proud of my bronze!!

Time for me to share - here's the recipe I brewed (for 4 gallons):

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
3 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Ale Malt (Bairds) (2.5 SRM) Grain 1 40.4 %
3 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 40.4 %
1 lbs Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 11.6 %
8.0 oz Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 5.8 %
2.5 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 5 1.8 %

152F 60 min mash, measured 5.42 Mash pH

---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.051 SG Est OG: 1.060 SG
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
0.11 oz HopShot [65.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 29.8 IBUs

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1.30 oz Citra 2016 [13.80 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 7 10.8 IBUs
1.30 oz Mosaic 2016 [10.30 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 8 8.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Galaxy 2017 [18.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 9 10.9 IBUs
1 oz Galaxy pellets, 0.6 oz Mosaic pellets, 0.4 oz Citra pellets dry hop 36 hours after pitching
1 oz Citra cryo, 0.5 oz Mosaic cryo dry hops 3.5 days after pitching. added spunding valve

Water Additions:

Mash 3.73 gal

• 0.9g gypsum
• 1.9g CaCl
• 0.7g Epsom Salt
• 1.5ml lactic acid
• 150mg sodium metabisulphite

Sparge 2.16 gal

• 0.5g gypsum
• 1.1g CaCl
• 0.4g Epsom Salt
• 0.5ml lactic acid
• 75mg sodium metabisulphite

Yeast: 1.5L starter of Wyeast 1318 London Ale III

Here's where I thought it may have gone wrong - OG was 1.059, FG was 1.018-1.020, so it finished higher than I wanted. But no signs of fermentation issues - I think the yeast was just done. That's 65-68% apparent attenuation, which isn't too far off from Wyeast 1318.

I close-transferred the beer into the completely purged serving keg

 

[iancanderson]

Forgot to attach a pic. Here is it - brewed on 1/2, kegged on 1/12, submitted entry on 1/19, this pic is from today when I had a pour from the keg to celebrate =)