New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[TomRep]

Has anyone who used cryo hops is n these ever noticed a chalky/dryness in the back of your throat when drinking the finished product? Almost like a slight burn or something. I used 3 ounces of cryo in my last batch (2.5 Oz in the whirlpool and a half ounce in dry hops) and I noticed this. It was my fourth NEIPA batch and the first time using cryo and this is the first I noticed this. I thought it may have been from the beer being young (although I drink them all at the same age), but the same feeling/taste was there until the very last pour. I'm brewing a batch either today or tomorrow and am contemplating using them again for this reason.
Tom

I posted this several pages ago and had a few replies that thought this was from the yeast. I have come to my own conclusion that it is indeed from the cryo hops. I brewed the exact same recipe, one with cryo and one with pellets. The cryo version had this dryness/chalky-ness. The pellet version had the bite for the first pour (one day on gas, not fully carbed) and was completely gone after that. I will note, I get these on tap fast. Typically within 7-10 days. I have no doubt this is more than likely the cause, but if I can brew with pellets and keep that schedule with no problems, it's obvious which I'm going to use. I have about 15 ounces of cryo hops in my freezer yet. I'm planning to make a big, more malty, west coast double IPA and use some of them for that and see if with some aging I can notice anything.
Tom

 

[dukedevil0]

Yes - last 6 months+ this has been my hopping schedule:

1st Addition:
.5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes

2nd Addition:
6 ounces at Flameout..... I shut off flame, get chiller going, swirl up wort some and probably drop hops in around 150-170 range.... not precise at all on that. I shut off chiller for 10 minutes maybe. Then, I get chiller going again and swirl up wort every 5 minutes or so while it chills.

3rd Addition:
6 ounces on Day 2 of fermentation. Those hops go in loose and stay in until I keg the beer on day 12-14 range (depending on schedule/convenience). I do move the fermenter upstairs where it is a bit warmer on day 3-4. I move the fermenter back downstairs onto a work bench in my brew room 2 days before kegging. I think this movement helps knock the hops out of suspension and helps them to settle out.

This route definitely is less effort, less time, etc. And, I have really noticed ZERO difference in the finished product. I would say this method has been producing NE IPA's that are as good as any I have made.

Now try a shorter boil to cut even more time!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Urban Chestnut doesn’t seem to brew IPA’s hardly at judging by their Untappd profile. Id have a hard time getting excited about donating my recipe and time to a place like that. Maybe you can help them step their game up

Are you seriously saying that a brewery that doesn't make IPAs is not at the top of its game? Have Westvleteren, Weihenstephaner and Timothy Taylor been told?

If anything, it works the other way. I'm sure their marketing department are screaming at them to make an IPA. The fact that they appear to be thriving without pandering to the largest segment of the US craft market suggests that they're pretty damn good at what they do, and I'd be more excited to brew with someone like that than just another producer of "throw in more Citra" me-too IPAs.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Yes - last 6 months+ this has been my hopping schedule:

1st Addition:
.5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes

2nd Addition:
6 ounces at Flameout..... I shut off flame, get chiller going, swirl up wort some and probably drop hops in around 150-170 range.... not precise at all on that. I shut off chiller for 10 minutes maybe. Then, I get chiller going again and swirl up wort every 5 minutes or so while it chills.

3rd Addition:
6 ounces on Day 2 of fermentation. Those hops go in loose and stay in until I keg the beer on day 12-14 range (depending on schedule/convenience). I do move the fermenter upstairs where it is a bit warmer on day 3-4. I move the fermenter back downstairs onto a work bench in my brew room 2 days before kegging. I think this movement helps knock the hops out of suspension and helps them to settle out.

This route definitely is less effort, less time, etc. And, I have really noticed ZERO difference in the finished product. I would say this method has been producing NE IPA's that are as good as any I have made.

Gonna try your technique instead of 3oz at flameout, 3oz at 170, dryhop 3oz at day 2 and 3oz at day 10.

This is gonna confirm that 10-12 days of dry hoping doesn't make a difference from a 2 step dry hoping... That would be very nice!

Using WLP644 in less than 2 weeks

 

[jammin]

Are you seriously saying that a brewery that doesn't make IPAs is not at the top of its game? Have Westvleteren, Weihenstephaner and Timothy Taylor been told?

If anything, it works the other way. I'm sure their marketing department are screaming at them to make an IPA. The fact that they appear to be thriving without pandering to the largest segment of the US craft market suggests that they're pretty damn good at what they do, and I'd be more excited to brew with someone like that than just another producer of "throw in more Citra" me-too IPAs.

you sound like a real drama queen... made up a whole paragraph on what i DIDNT say.

and if all there is to these IPAs is just "throwing in more Citra"; in your words, "has the rest of HBT been told?" we can just shut down all these threads that clutter the forum...

 

[Hannabrew]

Totally agree with you! If I had the chance to go brew one of my recipes on professional equipment, I would jump at the chance! The experience alone would make it worth it.

Platform Brewery in Cleveland runs competitions for homebrewers to win a chance to brew their beers on a small 3 barrel system they use for experimenting and small batch beers and I would love to have the chance to win that one day!!!

I won something similar and get to brew on Maplewood's pilot system. While I'm excited about working with the brewers etc, I honestly think my system might be better than what I saw of their pilot ;-). Maybe I'm being naive though.

 

[TimmyWit]

I won something similar and get to brew on Maplewood's pilot system. While I'm excited about working with the brewers etc, I honestly think my system might be better than what I saw of their pilot ;-). Maybe I'm being naive though.

Congrats! We started getting Maplewood out here a few months ago. They are putting out some awesome stuff!

 

[centrical]

The thing I sometimes don't like about 1318 is that from time to time I have gotten kind of a "tart" ester/flavor off of it. Really have not experienced that with what I have been doing recently though, and have thought the beers came out great.

What you describe as a "tart" flavor - could it be the "hop burn" flavor that I and others have experienced?

I used to believe this was a yeast burn - but I am pretty sure it's more due to hops in suspension. I have found that you can filter it out with gelatin, or give it a few days of cold crash to clear it out.
I now taste samples as I cold crash and only keg once it's clear.

 

[nealjp]

Hi,
I have to thank the Braufesser for this awesome recipe. It's one of the most successful beers I've brewed. Yes, bottling caused a little oxidation as the NEIPA aged but it was still drinkable. I think I'll try a beer gun this time. The beer was also great while young though it ended a little more bitter than my taste. I'm thinking that the earliest hops will be in the whirlpool and then dry-hopped. Or a smaller 11g FHW?

Anyway, my last malt bill used a variation of the bill on page 1418. I couldn't get Rahr 2 Row, nor Golden Promise, nor Honey Malt.

2500.00 g Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 40.6 %
2500.00 g Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 2 40.6 %
450.00 g Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.3 %
250.00 g White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4 4.1 %
230.00 g Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 5 3.7 %
115.00 g Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 6 1.9 %
115.00 g Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 7 1.9 %
6160.00g

I made a Vienna Hefe recently with 63% Wheat Malt, 27% Vienna, and Wyeast #3942. I loved the bready, biscuity, full body of that beer.

Two completely different styles of course but I'd like some of those Vienna characters in my next batch (without overpowering the beer and hops). I've only used Vienna once.

What do you think about switching Maris 2.5kg for Vienna 2.5kg, removing the Flaked Wheat (115g) and increasing the White Wheat from 250g to 365g, and removing the Melaniodan (redistribute to Vienna or Pale Malt? Or just remove). A malt bill like below:

2500.00 g Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 40.6 %
2500.00 g Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 2 40.6 %
450.00 g Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.3 %
365.00 g White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4 4.1 %
230.00 g Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 5 3.7 %
6045.00g

Thanks for any input!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I've just been reading about weissbier techniques and was wondering if anyone was applying them to NEIPAs to bump up the ester/fruit-iness? I've done a search on this thread and not found any mention of a maltase rest - between mashing and boiling, cool down to 45C/113F for 30-40 minutes and add 20% of the grain bill as DME to provide active maltase enzyme, which breaks down maltose to glucose which helps the ester-making enzymes and allows yeast to spend more happy time munching glucose which is when it produces ester precursors.

I'm also wondering whether adding leucine or isoleucine might help - they're amino acid precursors to the banana esters. You can get them from healthfood shops and bodybuilding websites, cost about half the price of hops so say 50g is about a quid's worth but doubles the amount of ester precursor over what's naturally in 5kg of grain.

It's a bit left-field, but it's another thing to put on the list to try.....

 

[pearljam1984]

Long time viewing of this thread, but wanted to add my experience in hopes to help others trying to achieve the style.

I have used 1318, OMEGA DIPA and S04 with this style. I prefer to use S04. I get a cleaner hop profile and don’t feel hops are being taken by yeast or grain.

Most recently I tried a NE Blonde(take on Eureka!)

Grains-
10lbs. - 2-Row
1lb. – Carapils

Hops-
30min- Columbus - .25oz
10min- Columbus - .25oz
Whirlpool- Columbus – .50oz
Whirlpool- Topaz – 1.0oz
Dry Hop- Citra – 1.0oz (6 days)
Dry Hop- Mosaic – 1.0oz (6 days)
Keg Hop- Columbus- .25oz
Keg Hop- Citra- 1.0oz
Keg Hop- Mosaic- 1.0oz

Yeast – S04

Mashed at 152 degrees.

Added Dry hops around 36 hours into fermentation at high Krausen. S04 finished for me in about 54-60 Hours.

My experience is you don’t absolutely have to use Oats or Wheat in your grain bill. Also, using 16oz of hops will definitely give you a hopped up beer, however I find it not necessary. I have rarely gone above 10oz.

I ferment for 7 days and then move to keg and carb around 8psi for 3-4 weeks. 4-5 weeks is ideal to start drinking. Here is a shot of the beer from above at day 14, one week into keg. Murky even after letting the keg pour to waste for a few seconds. I expect it to clear a bit, but keep its haze.

 

[Hannabrew]

My latest batch.

I think I'm going to try eliminating the keg hop next time as while it is delicious, there is a bit of hop burn that I could do without. I'm sure if I gave it time it would settle but maybe it's not even needed.

 

[TomRep]

PearlJam1984, nice name! Working on a sleeve on my arm dedicated to PJ

 

[SailorJerry]

Hop burn, can someone describe this? We just made a NEIPA, and it has a weird bitterness/burn at the end of a drink. The color is awesome, smells delicious, tastes pretty good, besides this "burn" at the end.

 

[stickyfinger]

Hop burn, can someone describe this? We just made a NEIPA, and it has a weird bitterness/burn at the end of a drink. The color is awesome, smells delicious, tastes pretty good, besides this "burn" at the end.

That sounds just like the "hop burn." It goes away with some aging. It's almost like there is a little bit of cayenne powder in the beer that just hits you on the back of your tongue or throat when you take a drink.

 

[SailorJerry]

That sounds just like the "hop burn." It goes away with some aging. It's almost like there is a little bit of cayenne powder in the beer that just hits you on the back of your tongue or throat when you take a drink.

Good to know, I'm hoping it was something that would go away with a bit of time. The beer was brewed Saturday the 21st, 3oz dry hop on day 2 of fermentation, 3oz dry hop on the 26th, kegged on the 31st.

Man, does it ever look good and smell good though! Should be carbed up good by now, so I will be turning pressure down to serving level from here out. I've tried it twice, on day one and on day two. Maybe I should turn my focus to the coffee stout on tap for a few days...

 

[stickyfinger]

A little odd that you get hop burn from that level of dry hopping if it was a 5-6G batch. I usually don't get it unless I go over 1 oz/gal. Even then it is rare for me. It can also occur if you use cryohops apparently. I also get a similar sensation if I have had a sore throat lately (from the carbonation) or if I have been eating spicy food.

 

[SailorJerry]

Hmmmm, bittering hop was Columbus, 1oz @ 60 min, but this doesn't seem like a hop bitterness. I've read about carbonic bite, but from what I've read about that, it comes from over-carbonation of the beer, right? I had trouble getting the keg lid sealed, so that took a bit of time, but nothing tastes off to the effect of oxidization.

 

[Braufessor]

Thinking about buying some of the WLP 066 London Fog yeast.

1.) Anyone use it yet? Reports?

2.) Is there any confirmation on what strain this actually is? Is it just 1318 (Boddingtons) or is it conan? Or is it actually something different than the other strains currently on the market?

 

[Gustatorian]

That sounds just like the "hop burn." It goes away with some aging. It's almost like there is a little bit of cayenne powder in the beer that just hits you on the back of your tongue or throat when you take a drink.

I hope that's the case with my latest NEIPA. I kegged it 2 days ago on 2 oz of cryo hops (1 oz mosaic, 1 oz citra), carbed it yesterday. The beer was phenomenal coming from the FV, now it has a vegetal undertone with a hop burn. I'm hoping a little conditioning will mellow it out.

I've had such fickle results with keg dry-hopping that I think I'm going to stop doing it altogether. The process doesn't translate over to what professionals are doing and the results vary so much, a beer (on the homebrew level) becomes unreproducible.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Thinking about buying some of the WLP 066 London Fog yeast....Is it just 1318 (Boddingtons) or is it conan? Or is it actually something different than the other strains currently on the market?

You would have thought that it would make sense for them to bring out a 1318-equivalent given its popularity for this stuff. But London Fog doesn't look like it - the spec says 1318 has high flocculation and 71-75 attenuation, whereas London Fog is medium-to-low flocc and 65-70 attenuation. That attenuation looks 10 points too low for the various different members of the Conan family, too.

So based on the offical attenuation, it's neither 1318 nor one of the Conans. A yeast that has mid-low flocculation isn't much use for normal British beer, as you need it to drop for cask, so I guess it must be part of a multistrain. Then take your pick of the trad London breweries - Charrington, Courage (1318?), Fuller's (WLP002), Mann, Reid, Truman's, Watney, Whitbread (WLP007, 1099) and Young's (1768).

Looking at that list, the only ones without a homebrew yeast that are currently brewing are Mann (now part of Marstons I think) and Truman's (recently revived, and they tracked down 4 of the original yeasts). The sweetness of Mann would fit the low attenuation, and the Mann yeast is quite a famous one - they sold it widely in the early 20th century, it was used by a number of the breweries absorbed by Greene King and a multistrain descendant was used by "original" Brakspear (although I've never quite worked out how that fits with 1275/WLP023 "Thames Valley/Burton ale" supposedly linked to Brakspear, maybe that's a Burton strain supplied by Marston after the takeover, Brakspear lost their original yeast).

So I've got absolutely no hard evidence, but if you forced me to guess, I'd put a fiver - but not the mortgage - on WLP066 being either a component of the Mann's strain or one of the derivatives that have evolved at places like Greene King.

 

[mintyice]

Hop burn, can someone describe this? We just made a NEIPA, and it has a weird bitterness/burn at the end of a drink. The color is awesome, smells delicious, tastes pretty good, besides this "burn" at the end.

Go chew on a hop, then drink your beer.

 

[TomRep]

Has anyone who used cryo hops is in these ever noticed a chalky/dryness in the back of your throat when drinking the finished product? Almost like a slight burn or something. I used 3 ounces of cryo in my last batch (2.5 Oz in the whirlpool and a half ounce in dry hops) and I noticed this. It was my fourth NEIPA batch and the first time using cryo and this is the first I noticed this. I thought it may have been from the beer being young (although I drink them all at the same age), but the same feeling/taste was there until the very last pour. I'm brewing a batch either today or tomorrow and am contemplating using them again for this reason.
Tom

I posted this several pages ago and had a few replies that thought this was from the yeast. I have come to my own conclusion that it is indeed from the cryo hops. I brewed the exact same recipe, one with cryo and one with pellets. The cryo version had this dryness/chalky-ness. The pellet version had the bite for the first pour (one day on gas, not fully carbed) and was completely gone after that. I will note, I get these on tap fast. Typically within 7-10 days. I have no doubt this is more than likely the cause, but if I can brew with pellets and keep that schedule with no problems, it's obvious which I'm going to use. I have about 15 ounces of cryo hops in my freezer yet. I'm planning to make a big, more malty, west coast double IPA and use some of them for that and see if with some aging I can notice anything.
Tom

Those of you asking about "hop burn", did you use cryo hops? If so, let me know how long until the burn completely goes away, if it does. Doing a bit of personal research on cryo hops.

 

[centrical]

Those of you asking about "hop burn", did you use cryo hops? If so, let me know how long until the burn completely goes away, if it does. Doing a bit of personal research on cryo hops.

I did use cryohops once so far, and got the burn. I had not carbed it up at that point, so I fined it with gelatin. After 3 days the burn was completely gone, so I carbed it up at that point. Not sure how long it would have taken without gelatin - however I also tasted burn in beers made with pellets, and I gave them 3 or 4 days cold crash at 38f and that did the trick.

 

[TomRep]

I almost used finings to clear my cryo batch but I wanted to see for myself what happened without. I too had some burn with pellets, but like you said, it faded after a few days. But that didn't happen with the cryo batches. I plan to try a few things that may help the cryo batches, but I just wanted to get a poll, so to speak, in that it's not just me getting it. For me, these brews are all about speed. If I can perfect a way to use the cryo and have them on tap in 7-10 days without the burn, I'll be happy with them.

 

[Oldskewl]

Good to know, I'm hoping it was something that would go away with a bit of time. The beer was brewed Saturday the 21st, 3oz dry hop on day 2 of fermentation, 3oz dry hop on the 26th, kegged on the 31st.

Man, does it ever look good and smell good though! Should be carbed up good by now, so I will be turning pressure down to serving level from here out. I've tried it twice, on day one and on day two. Maybe I should turn my focus to the coffee stout on tap for a few days...

I think it is a combo of carbonic bite with some hop burn. If I try to carb this beer in a couple days I get the burn. If I do more of a 30 psi for a day, 20 psi for a day or 2, and then set it at 12psi for a week, it is fine even with hops in the Keg.

 

[SailorJerry]

I think it is a combo of carbonic bite with some hop burn. If I try to carb this beer in a couple days I get the burn. If I do more of a 30 psi for a day, 20 psi for a day or 2, and then set it at 12psi for a week, it is fine even with hops in the Keg.

Good to know, I probably will let it sit another few days and try it

 

[radwizard]

Is everybody pretty much skipping the second keg dry hop at this point? I've been following this thread for a bit, and was curious of this new eliminated step. Seems like an extra step, that if unneeded, if basically just a PITA...

What are you guys doing now? What were the differences in the finished product between these methods?

 

[plazola86]

Go chew on a hop, then drink your beer.

This is exactly what "hop burn" is. Its just really fine hop particles that make it into the beer. Cryo hops are concentrated and already in powder form that's why you get it even worse with them. I've tried keg hopping multiple times and each time they had that same burn to them, that's why I don't keg hop anymore. 1 big dry hop charge, inline filter from fermenter to keg and I've never had that issue again.

 

[stickyfinger]

Is everybody pretty much skipping the second keg dry hop at this point? I've been following this thread for a bit, and was curious of this new eliminated step. Seems like an extra step, that if unneeded, if basically just a PITA...

What are you guys doing now? What were the differences in the finished product between these methods?

This is what I've noticed. One large dryhop in the primary gets me what I need. Now, one reason to consider two dry hop charges is to get a different character from the hops. I've found that if I leave the hops in contact with the beer for at least 3-4 days or longer, the dryhop character is different from the character I get from a very short dry hop or a keg dry hop. I've added hops to a beer for 24 hours and then cold-crashed and found that the dryhop character was very different from when I leave the hops in contact with the wort longer. It was much more "dank" so to speak and closer to the flavor I get when I add hops to the serving keg. I like/don't mind some of that type of dankness, but I prefer the character of a longer dryhop, so I generally just do one charge in the primary and let it rest for at least 3-4 days or longer.

 

[radwizard]

This is what I've noticed. One large dryhop in the primary gets me what I need. Now, one reason to consider two dry hop charges is to get a different character from the hops. I've found that if I leave the hops in contact with the beer for at least 3-4 days or longer, the dryhop character is different from the character I get from a very short dry hop or a keg dry hop. I've added hops to a beer for 24 hours and then cold-crashed and found that the dryhop character was very different from when I leave the hops in contact with the wort longer. It was much more "dank" so to speak and closer to the flavor I get when I add hops to the serving keg. I like/don't mind some of that type of dankness, but I prefer the character of a longer dryhop, so I generally just do one charge in the primary and let it rest for at least 3-4 days or longer.

Good stuff. I'm not exclusively brewing NEIPAs. I still do West Coast kinda stuff, and my "House Recipe" is kind of a hybrid of the two. I'm not really looking for "dank" in a NEIPA, personally. If I wanted to brew something dank, I would probably opt to do a more West Coast sorta thing. NEIPA for me is a fruitier, tropical kinda thing.

So, if we are doing a Dry Hop on day 3, how long would you keep the beer in that primary? I have been pulling my NEIPAs out of primary earlier then my other beers, and racking to keg at room temp to finish fermentaion, then crashing the keg. Does this seem right for a single dry hop NEIPA?

 

[stickyfinger]

So, if we are doing a Dry Hop on day 3, how long would you keep the beer in that primary? I have been pulling my NEIPAs out of primary earlier then my other beers, and racking to keg at room temp to finish fermentaion, then crashing the keg. Does this seem right for a single dry hop NEIPA?

I've left the beer in contact with the dry hops for at least 2 weeks and gotten delicious results. I don't know how long you can go beyond that, maybe 3 weeks. I've gone over a month, and the result was a very weird, vegetal, green pepper character (from X331 dry hops.) I would just leave them until you are ready to keg or bottle, as long as it isn't too far over 2 weeks. I don't really know if the character changes a lot between 3 days and 14 days, say. I haven't done a direct comparison, but I think both would taste great. If you dry hop a shorter time, I'd wait longer, as you want to give the diacetyl precursors time to oxidize (though some people seem to be able to get away with packaging with precursors in solution.)

 

[Gustatorian]

This is exactly what "hop burn" is. Its just really fine hop particles that make it into the beer. Cryo hops are concentrated and already in powder form that's why you get it even worse with them. I've tried keg hopping multiple times and each time they had that same burn to them, that's why I don't keg hop anymore. 1 big dry hop charge, inline filter from fermenter to keg and I've never had that issue again.

How are your IPAs turning out with one big dry hop and when are you dry-hopping? What differences have you noticed in flavor with and without using the inline filter?

 

[mintyice]

This is exactly what "hop burn" is. Its just really fine hop particles that make it into the beer. Cryo hops are concentrated and already in powder form that's why you get it even worse with them. I've tried keg hopping multiple times and each time they had that same burn to them, that's why I don't keg hop anymore. 1 big dry hop charge, inline filter from fermenter to keg and I've never had that issue again.

You can keghop as long as you are pouring from the top of the keg.

I always say this in this thread, but keg floats are really really good.

 

[plazola86]

How are your IPAs turning out with one big dry hop and when are you dry-hopping? What differences have you noticed in flavor with and without using the inline filter?

1 oz of dry hop per gallon goes into my ipas in day 4 - 5, right when the krausen has fallen but the yeast still have a couple more points to finish. I’ll leave them in for 5-7 days before I keg it and burst carb and ready to drink in 2 days. The first week the aroma is in your face more so than any comercial beer that I’ve had. Second week the aroma is on par with any big aromatic comercial beer. Third week is when the keg usually kicks for me.

 

[plazola86]

You can keghop as long as you are pouring from the top of the keg.



I always say this in this thread, but keg floats are really really good.

I’ve read so many people have great success with it and in theory it sounds like the best way possible to get the most aroma and flavor from the hops. Now I’m tempted to buy the clear draft system! I wish I’ve had success keg hopping but the it’s been the same result and maybe that’s the solution?

 

[Gustatorian]

You can keghop as long as you are pouring from the top of the keg.

I always say this in this thread, but keg floats are really really good.

Interesting. I'll have to try that. I have my dip tubes cut to approximately 1" off the bottom, still get the burn though.

 

[anteater8]

All this hops in the keg talk and hop burn... I just ordered this autosiphon filter to use when racking to the keg. I use to use paint straining bags but I'm hoping this will be easier and do a better job keeping more junk out.

https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#autosiphon

 

[stickyfinger]

All this hops in the keg talk and hop burn... I just ordered this autosiphon filter to use when racking to the keg. I use to use paint straining bags but I'm hoping this will be easier and do a better job keeping more junk out.

https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#autosiphon

Great idea! Can you do me a favor and let us know if it will work in a 6.5G carboy? The mouth is a little narrower in those.

 

[Braufessor]

I have never really had any experience with "hop burn" of any sort. I suppose it is likely a combo of Over Carbonation and possibly the transfer of too much particulate. That is just a guess though.