New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Fermenting away nicely.
Have all you guys been dry hopping in the corny keg as recommended by Braufessor. Just don't fancy cutting a dip tube down to fir my hop filter tube in.
Would there be issues if I did the 2nd dry hop in my primary carboy?
 
braindead said:
Fermenting away nicely.
Have all you guys been dry hopping in the corny keg as recommended by Braufessor. Just don't fancy cutting a dip tube down to fir my hop filter tube in.
Would there be issues if I did the 2nd dry hop in my primary carboy?
Click to expand...

I have been putting all dry hop in primary recently. Works just fine. Just need to be a little bit more careful when it comes time to transfer to keg in order to not transfer too much gunk. I also get a clogged post at first from time to time doing this..... but, a few minutes of taking post off and cleaning and it is just fine.
 
Amount of hops floating on the top of my brew in the carboy after first dry hop is insane.

My dry hopper spider is Size: Approx. 18cm x 7cm / 11in x 2.7in
Would there be enough room in here for the final 85 G of hops you think, or be too compacted?
 
braindead said:
Amount of hops floating on the top of my brew in the carboy after first dry hop is insane.
My dry hopper spider is Size: Approx. 18cm x 7cm / 11in x 2.7in

Would there be enough room in here for the final 85 G of hops you think>?
Click to expand...

Hard to say. I throw all mine in loose. I don't us a carboy though - generally I use a SS brew bucket and that as kind of a cone shaped bottom. They settle out to the bottom pretty well for me.
 
Braufessor said:
Hard to say. I throw all mine in loose. I don't us a carboy though - generally I use a SS brew bucket and that as kind of a cone shaped bottom. They settle out to the bottom pretty well for me.
Click to expand...

Yeah I spotted your pic of your brew bucket setup. Rather jealous.
 
@Braufessor

Do you pressure transfer out of your BrewBucket? I'm on the fence about buying one but I want to make sure if does pressure transfers without problems.
 
hezagenius said:
@Braufessor

Do you pressure transfer out of your BrewBucket? I'm on the fence about buying one but I want to make sure if does pressure transfers without problems.
Click to expand...

No..... I don't. For these beers, I just do gravity through tubing into the bottom of a CO2 purged keg. and then repurge the head space really well after the transfer.

Other people construct set ups to do this though and it looks like there are a variety of ways to pull it off successfully.
 
Braufessor said:
I have been putting all dry hop in primary recently. Works just fine. Just need to be a little bit more careful when it comes time to transfer to keg in order to not transfer too much gunk. I also get a clogged post at first from time to time doing this..... but, a few minutes of taking post off and cleaning and it is just fine.
Click to expand...

Do you do a one-step or two-step (i.e. on day 2-3 and on day 7) dry hop now?
 
I can't say that I exclusively do either. I would say that recently, more often, I have been doing a single 6 ounce dry hop between day 2-4. I do have a recent batch where I did 2x 3ounces...... 3 at day 3 or so and 3 more around day 8 or 9.

I have not noticed a huge or significant difference personally.

I will say that a single dry hop early does allow more time for the hops to settle out and probably reduces the amount that gets transferred to the keg - so that is a plus.
 
hezagenius said:
@Braufessor

Do you pressure transfer out of your BrewBucket? I'm on the fence about buying one but I want to make sure if does pressure transfers without problems.
Click to expand...

I do out of mine - found it a lot easier with the 90 degree hose barb, just enough pressure fill the volume from the beer being transferred. V low pressure -- no need to over come the hydrostatic pressure of the vessel like doing a closed transfer from a carboy.
 
Couple new hop combos that I tried recently and have on tap now - turned out very well:

6 ounces in single flame out after chilling started, 6 ounces in single dry hop -

** 2:2:2 ratio Centennial, Cascade, Summit..... this one surprised me, but it was really pretty good.

** 2:2:1:1 ratio of Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy: Centennial..... VERY good. Really liked this one

** 2:2:2 ratio of Citra: Mosaic: Simcoe - really good as well.

Also - the Centennial:Cascade:Summitt, blended 50/50 with either of the other two is really great as well. Just some food for thought.

Recent Amber version of this I did was really good I thought ...... I will post full recipe when I get a chance. Should be a really good fall beer.
 
Getting ready to fire up the brew kettle and just got this in the mail...... I am thinking today is going to be a better than average Monday.

IMG_1090.jpg
 
I've tried them all but rising tide. Mettle and Fort Point and Scaled Up are my favorites. Not a fan of Castle Island. You got the Mettle and Fort Point just in time. They're out of cans
 
Well since I have been having issues the last month since getting some new gear and increasing batch size, I had to break down and make a NE IPA run over the weekend. So I am well stocked to deal with the issue until I get my brewing back on track. :D

I see me and Braufessor have similar tastes!

35951923746_5397ff1c56_k.jpg

35182927163_711d779da2_k.jpg
 
Braufessor said:
Couple new hop combos that I tried recently and have on tap now - turned out very well:

6 ounces in single flame out after chilling started, 6 ounces in single dry hop -

** 2:2:2 ratio Centennial, Cascade, Summit..... this one surprised me, but it was really pretty good.

** 2:2:1:1 ratio of Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy: Centennial..... VERY good. Really liked this one

** 2:2:2 ratio of Citra: Mosaic: Simcoe - really good as well.

Also - the Centennial:Cascade:Summitt, blended 50/50 with either of the other two is really great as well. Just some food for thought.

Recent Amber version of this I did was really good I thought ...... I will post full recipe when I get a chance. Should be a really good fall beer.
Click to expand...

Good to hear. I've got to start creating some combo's the don't require the overly expensive and elusive Galaxy.
 
cheesebach said:
That's interesting - I hadn't heard of that being an issue specific to azacca before, but I brewed a NEIPA with azacca/citra/mosaic at a 1.5:1:1 ratio a bit over a month ago. I split the wort and fermented half with 1318 and half with Conan. Surprisingly to me, the batch fermented with 1318 had a harsh bitterness similar to what was described, but the Conan batch is smooth and delicious. The Conan batch was preferred unanimously by the 8 of my friends that have tried it, despite the 1318 having a bit better visual appeal from its more "juice-like" appearance.

Might give 1318 another go with a different hop combo in a future batch, since I can't imagine so many people using that yeast with these beers if what I observed in mine is typical. None of the LHBS in Austin carry any conan varieties that I'm aware of, so I was kind of hoping I'd prefer the 1318 fermented batch.
Click to expand...


That's just how I felt about my azacca so maybe it's just me.

I tried dennys favorite 50 (wyeast) in a NE pale ale a while back and thought the beer came out nice so you may want to try a few more yeasts. Do you not consider Austin home brew supply local (maybe too big or bought out)? I would think they would carry some Conan...
 
EndOfLine said:
Actually I was thinking the opposite: Dry hopping before primary while the yeast is acidifying the wort during the lag phase, may be best? the yeast is trying make its environment ideal for fermentation (acidification) then goes though all of these processes to ferment and condition our beer. The last step being diacetyl rest. Now imagine (in theory) a sudden explosion in their environment, (dry hopping) changing it to a more stressful one. The yeast may not want to absorb diacetyl any more.
Click to expand...


That's interesting and makes sense. I wonder if adding the first dry hop with the yeast would change the biotransformation at all or lead to grassy off flavors (my nemesis). It's worth a split test batch at least.
 
That's interesting and makes sense. I wonder if adding the first dry hop with the yeast would change the biotransformation at all or lead to grassy off flavors (my nemesis). It's worth a split test batch at least.
Click to expand...

I have often added 1 to 2 oz of hops inter the fermenter as I am adding the wort and pitching the yeast. Not sure if it makes a difference but had very good results with the beers i did this with.
 
@braufessor, so when you are doing your 6 oz at FO addition. Are you then stalling it for a whirlpool, or just let it cool without a timed whirlpool? So far I have mixed doing FO and whirlpool additions. Sometimes I just do one or the other but I always stall it around 175 for 30 mins to whirlpool. Wondering if that is necessary.
 
marjen said:
@braufessor, so when you are doing your 6 oz at FO addition. Are you then stalling it for a whirlpool, or just let it cool without a timed whirlpool? So far I have mixed doing FO and whirlpool additions. Sometimes I just do one or the other but I always stall it around 175 for 30 mins to whirlpool. Wondering if that is necessary.
Click to expand...

I use an immersion chiller to take the wort down to say 140-150-160-170 or so (I am not particularly precise with the temp). Then I shut off the chiller, throw in the hops. About every 5 minutes I use the chiller (that is still sitting in the kettle) to whirlpool the wort and swirl everything up into solution again. I probably let it sit at this temp, swirling it up every 5 minutes, for about 20-30 minutes depending on what I am doing, brew chores to be done, etc.. Then, I turn the chiller back on and take it down to pitching temp.
 
@Braufessor, ok so you are not really doing a FO, you are dropping temp first then doing a 20-30 min whirlpool addition. Good to know. I have tried it 3 ways:

1. 3 OZ at FO, 3 OZ whirlpool@30 mins
2. 3-4oz whirlpool@ 30 mins
3. 4-5oz at FO, drop to whirlpool temps 20-30 mins.

Need to review my notes on some past batches as I feel my juicest results have included some kind of FO addition.
 
marjen said:
@Braufessor, ok so you are not really doing a FO, you are dropping temp first then doing a 20-30 min whirlpool addition. Good to know. I have tried it 3 ways:

1. 3 OZ at FO, 3 OZ whirlpool@30 mins
2. 3-4oz whirlpool@ 30 mins
3. 4-5oz at FO, drop to whirlpool temps 20-30 mins.

Need to review my notes on some past batches as I feel my juicest results have included some kind of FO addition.
Click to expand...

Yeah - it only takes me less than a minute to go from FO to that 140-170 temp range, so I just referred to it as FO. I have done the same as you...... Honestly, can't say any one was significantly better/worse..... which is why I am not super precise with it anymore.

I did just do 2 experimental APA's. Both the same in every way. Both got about 35 IBU's at 60 minutes.

1.) 6 ounces of hops at Flameout (actual Flame out).

2.) 6 ounces in Dry hop

No other hops in either.

I used Cascade/Centennial/Summit in these 2:2:2

The dry hop one is "juicier." However, the flame out one is better. It is really clean, crisp - very much like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Summit Extra Pale Ale.
The dry hop one the hops are kind of sweet, full and sort of linger in a mouth-coating way. The flame out one is crisp and clean. Very flavorful, but then everything is just "gone" when you swallow the beer and it is like you are immediately ready for another drink.

It was kind of interesting to taste them next to each other and compare.
 
Braufessor said:
Yeah - it only takes me less than a minute to go from FO to that 140-170 temp range, so I just referred to it as FO. I have done the same as you...... Honestly, can't say any one was significantly better/worse..... which is why I am not super precise with it anymore.

I did just do 2 experimental APA's. Both the same in every way. Both got about 35 IBU's at 60 minutes.

1.) 6 ounces of hops at Flameout (actual Flame out).

2.) 6 ounces in Dry hop

No other hops in either.

I used Cascade/Centennial/Summit in these 2:2:2

The dry hop one is "juicier." However, the flame out one is better. It is really clean, crisp - very much like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Summit Extra Pale Ale.
The dry hop one the hops are kind of sweet, full and sort of linger in a mouth-coating way. The flame out one is crisp and clean. Very flavorful, but then everything is just "gone" when you swallow the beer and it is like you are immediately ready for another drink.

It was kind of interesting to taste them next to each other and compare.
Click to expand...

Brau, are you still using the same original recipe posted on page 1 and doing 6 oz at FO with no DH?
 
I did just do 2 experimental APA's. Both the same in every way. Both got about 35 IBU's at 60 minutes.
Click to expand...

I do find it interesting how the 2 play together. I have tried a couple batches were I only did columbus in the boil and small amount in the whirlpool and then added the other flavor additions all in dry hop. While they were good, they had stronger aroma than real juicy taste. It lends me to believe more of the hop taste comes from the late FO/WP additions and more of the aroma comes from the dry hop process.
 
Braufessor said:
Yeah - it only takes me less than a minute to go from FO to that 140-170 temp range, so I just referred to it as FO. I have done the same as you...... Honestly, can't say any one was significantly better/worse..... which is why I am not super precise with it anymore.

I did just do 2 experimental APA's. Both the same in every way. Both got about 35 IBU's at 60 minutes.

1.) 6 ounces of hops at Flameout (actual Flame out).

2.) 6 ounces in Dry hop

No other hops in either.

I used Cascade/Centennial/Summit in these 2:2:2

The dry hop one is "juicier." However, the flame out one is better. It is really clean, crisp - very much like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Summit Extra Pale Ale.
The dry hop one the hops are kind of sweet, full and sort of linger in a mouth-coating way. The flame out one is crisp and clean. Very flavorful, but then everything is just "gone" when you swallow the beer and it is like you are immediately ready for another drink.

It was kind of interesting to taste them next to each other and compare.
Click to expand...

I've also noticed this after doing several dryhop-only beers. They get a ton of hop character, but I miss the flavor from hops in the boil for some reason. They DO seem crisper. Even when they are less hoppy in flavor, they are still really good. sometimes I crave one over the other.
 
brew703 said:
Brau, are you still using the same original recipe posted on page 1 and doing 6 oz at FO with no DH?
Click to expand...

Most of what I do is pretty similar to post #1418 with minor variations here and there.

I think post 1418 is probably the best "starting point" with perhaps simplifying to all dry hops in primary. To me, that is a good baseline and then start playing around with things from there.
 
brewski09 said:
Do you not consider Austin home brew supply local (maybe too big or bought out)? I would think they would carry some Conan...
Click to expand...


I guess the answer to that depends on whether you believe WLP095 is some variant of Conan or not. AFAIK, AHS only carries Wyeast and White Labs yeasts. I did a batch with WLP095 last fall that came out well for aroma and flavor, but didn't have the appearance I was going for (came out mostly clear). I'm almost positive now though that it was a result of using whirfloc during the last 10 months minutes of the boil in that batch (was my first NEIPA attempt and used it out of habit).
 
cheesebach said:
I guess the answer to that depends on whether you believe WLP095 is some variant of Conan or not. AFAIK, AHS only carries Wyeast and White Labs yeasts. I did a batch with WLP095 last fall that came out well for aroma and flavor, but didn't have the appearance I was going for (came out mostly clear). I'm almost positive now though that it was a result of using whirfloc during the last 10 months minutes of the boil in that batch (was my first NEIPA attempt and used it out of habit).
Click to expand...

wlp095 has come out clear for me a few times as well. sometimes it is a hazy one and sometimes clear. the only yeast that has been super consistent for cloudy is WY1318. WLP095 gives a nice IPA though. I've never tried it at 64F, wondering if others have tried it cooler.
 
marjen said:
Well since I have been having issues the last month since getting some new gear and increasing batch size, I had to break down and make a NE IPA run over the weekend. So I am well stocked to deal with the issue until I get my brewing back on track. :D

I see me and Braufessor have similar tastes!

35951923746_5397ff1c56_k.jpg

35182927163_711d779da2_k.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks like a trading partner to me :)

Let me know if you're ever interested in some tasty Chicago brews
 
dyqik said:
Right, time for my first go at this tomorrow. I have a new Fermonster, set up for sealed carbon dioxide "pushed" (I'll use my cask breather and the spigot on the fermonster) transfer, a corny lid set up to hang a dry hop bag from, and a fresh starter of Conan.

Aiming at 140:140 PPM Cl:SO4

Recipe is:
12lb Pearl Malt
1 lb Rolled Oats
4oz Honey Malt

2.5ml Hopshot for 60 mins
1oz Amarillo
1oz El Dorado
1oz Simcoe for 20 min whirlpool

1oz of each at 3-4 days
1oz of Amarillo and El Dorado, 0.5oz Simcoe after fermentation is done.
Click to expand...

This went into the kegerator and straight onto a tap after naturally carbing in my 65F basement for six days, with the second load of dry hops. The line clearing sample tasted great, and fully carbonated, even warm. And the good thing about naturally carbing the keg is that it's ready to drink sooner than set and forget carbing (I suspect 3 days would be sufficient).
 

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