New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[EndOfLine]

I am wondering if it was a cleaning issue. I gave it a quick rinse but did not really give it a soak or a really good scrub prior to use. I just went over the inside with bar keepers friend and rinsed and now I am soaking the whole thing in PBW. then going to run PBW through all the valves and new hosing and pump i just got.

Every new piece of stainless should be cleaned (tsp, pbw, ect) and then a passivation step. I just bought two new kegs. After a thorough cleaning step, I did a 10x starsan soak, and what came out was black machine oil grossness

 

[JohnConnor]

I have never tried this but have been thinking about it.

Do you use the same hops that you are going to whirpool / dryhop with? How much do you add during the 15-FO period?

I just did an all mosaic hopped beer that is pretty great. I did 1oz @ 15, 2oz @ 5, 1oz @ FO and 3oz @ ~ 170. I'm thinking of adding another ounce in there somewhere but this has given me very solid beers. Very good flavor. I honestly haven't been sold on whirlpool only hopping. Then I dry hop the crap out of it. I think I used 8 ounces this last batch. My next batch is going to be el dorado/mosaic but I think I'm going to only boil mosaic and whirlpool/dry hop with the combo.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Figured I'd post up a pic of my latest east coast IPA. This is my own recipe of only 2 row and pilsner malts...NO FLAKED ANYTHING...and citra/mosaic hop combo. I'm pretty set now that the yeast is what makes these things hazy. I used 1318 and this is how it came out.

 

[stickyfinger]

Figured I'd post up a pic of my latest east coast IPA. This is my own recipe of only 2 row and pilsner malts...NO FLAKED ANYTHING...and citra/mosaic hop combo. I'm pretty set now that the yeast is what makes these things hazy. I used 1318 and this is how it came out.

I've also omitted anything flaked several times. It has no effect on haziness if there is a lot of hopping and you use a particular yeast.

 

[stickyfinger]

I just did an all mosaic hopped beer that is pretty great. I did 1oz @ 15, 2oz @ 5, 1oz @ FO and 3oz @ ~ 170. I'm thinking of adding another ounce in there somewhere but this has given me very solid beers. Very good flavor. I honestly haven't been sold on whirlpool only hopping. Then I dry hop the crap out of it. I think I used 8 ounces this last batch. My next batch is going to be el dorado/mosaic but I think I'm going to only boil mosaic and whirlpool/dry hop with the combo.

Have you compared doing late additions vs hopstand-only at all? Lately, I've been curious if late additions are maybe better or equivalent to hop stands.

 

[EMH5]

Not trying to be an ass, but how did you bottle that successfully? To me it appears oxidized but that may be the photograph.

Hahaha, no not oxidized. It's just the outdoor lighting. Believe me, I don't take offense to questions or comments in this forum.

I made this beer for a friend so I cut down the flaked grain in the recipe and added carpils and C20... I usually add 18-20% flaked grains but I wanted less proteins in the bottle to lower the chance of oxidizing.

Used Galaxy 9, Citra 3 and Columbus 2 as my hop additions. Huge tropical note, almost pineapple.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Figured I'd post up a pic of my latest east coast IPA. This is my own recipe of only 2 row and pilsner malts...NO FLAKED ANYTHING...and citra/mosaic hop combo. I'm pretty set now that the yeast is what makes these things hazy. I used 1318 and this is how it came out.

I did a pale ale that I expected to turn out clear for my last batch. I used 1318 and omitted the dry hop during fermentation, but I did have some hefty whirlpool additions. I think residual hops in suspension from the whirlpool additions are included in the biotransformation and lead to haziness just like a dry hop addition would. I've noticed that all my NEIPAs have remained hazy, but the ones with flaked oats and flaked wheat started out really murky and settled into really hazy, while the one without flaked additions started out pretty hazy but stayed the same over time.

In other words, the flaked stuff is necessary to get the super murky OJ looking stuff, but it won't hold that level of murkiness over time (but will remain hazy if biotransformation takes place). Biotransformation alone leads to a really nice haze that is stable.

 

[Ashevillain]

I don't think its the yeast honestly, or the malt. They all can contribute. But I've done this style with 100% 2row and WLP001 and a pound of hops focused around whirlpool/dryhop and have gotten these results.

 

[isomerization]

I don't think its the yeast honestly, or the malt. They all can contribute. But I've done this style with 100% 2row and WLP001 and a pound of hops focused around whirlpool/dryhop and have gotten these results.

Well technically, I bet it is the YEAST, but not physically the yeast, just what is happening, biochemically, to the hop compounds and proteins in solution.

 

[stickyfinger]

I did a pale ale that I expected to turn out clear for my last batch. I used 1318 and omitted the dry hop during fermentation, but I did have some hefty whirlpool additions. I think residual hops in suspension from the whirlpool additions are included in the biotransformation and lead to haziness just like a dry hop addition would. I've noticed that all my NEIPAs have remained hazy, but the ones with flaked oats and flaked wheat started out really murky and settled into really hazy, while the one without flaked additions started out pretty hazy but stayed the same over time.



In other words, the flaked stuff is necessary to get the super murky OJ looking stuff, but it won't hold that level of murkiness over time (but will remain hazy if biotransformation takes place). Biotransformation alone leads to a really nice haze that is stable.

you don't need flaked grains for a murky look

 

[stickyfinger]

I don't think its the yeast honestly, or the malt. They all can contribute. But I've done this style with 100% 2row and WLP001 and a pound of hops focused around whirlpool/dryhop and have gotten these results.

i've never once gotten much lasting intense haze from the Chico strain.

 

[grassfeeder]

i've never once gotten much lasting intense haze from the Chico strain.

exactly, the WLP001 will always drop clear within a short period of time in the keg.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I think I'll brew the following this weekend. Going for a lower ABV NE IPA kinda thing and using up some inventory. Thoughts, criticism, recipe look ok? I thought about trying maltodextrine for mouthfeel maybe?!?!?! Has anyone tried maltodextrine?

2.5 Gallon Batch
2#Golden Promise
1.25# White Wheat
4 oz Flaked Wheat
OG - 1040 (ending around 4% ABV)
No boil hops.
45 minute whirlpool starting @ 175 degrees.
21 g Columbus
42 g Mosaic

Dry Hop1 (high krausen)
7 g Columbus
21 g Mosaic

Dry Hop2 (4 days before kegging)
21 g Mosaic

EZ Water:
Estimated ph -5.33
Calcium - 109
Magnesium - 10
Sodium - 0
Chloride - 168
Sulfate - 77

 

[Sbe2]

Not trying to be an ass, but how did you bottle that successfully? To me it appears oxidized but that may be the photograph.

This is bottle oxidized NEIPA

 

[luizffgarcia]

Braufessor, thanks for this recipe. Just kegged and it is as awesome as it looks!

 

[luizffgarcia]

This is bottle oxidized NEIPA

This is so sad

 

[Sbe2]

This is so sad

Yeah, it took three weeks to turn. Primed in the primary, bottled out of primary, but still... Time to keg

 

[RevKev]

I feel like the only way to fill bottles is from a keg with a beergun, that way you are back flushing and have waaaaay less chance to oxidize your brew

 

[Braufessor]

I feel like the only way to fill bottles is from a keg with a beergun, that way you are back flushing and have waaaaay less chance to oxidize your brew

It would take some real timing..... but, I wonder about bottling it with approximately 3 gravity points left and letting it force carb in the bottle. You would definitely need to have your process down pat for sure. But, if you had a good enough method down where you knew that your beer was going to finish at 1.011 for instance, and you could monitor your fermentation well enough that as soon as it hit 1.015 or 1.014 you bottled it out of the fermenter.... that might work. Obviously, there is not a huge margin for error and you don't want to be guessing and end up with a 1.020 beer going into a bottle. But, if you could time it right, I wonder if you could eliminate the oxygen issue.

 

[EMH5]

This is bottle oxidized NEIPA

That sucks. Is it drinkable?

Mine isn't. Yet. The pic was all lighting... I'm hoping it lasts through July 4th which would be a month in the bottle.

I made 2 ipas, one bottled for a friend and legged the other... my Father's Day brew - Simcoe and Citra.

 

[luizffgarcia]

You dont need a beer gun, i bottle from the keg with zero oxidation, use that "we dont need no beer gun" thread to learn how, pretty easy.

Yeah bottling IPAs is a crime in my opinion, unless carbonated in a keg

Here is the link, found it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=24678

 

[Sbe2]

It would take some real timing..... but, I wonder about bottling it with approximately 3 gravity points left and letting it force carb in the bottle. You would definitely need to have your process down pat for sure. But, if you had a good enough method down where you knew that your beer was going to finish at 1.011 for instance, and you could monitor your fermentation well enough that as soon as it hit 1.015 or 1.014 you bottled it out of the fermenter.... that might work. Obviously, there is not a huge margin for error and you don't want to be guessing and end up with a 1.020 beer going into a bottle. But, if you could time it right, I wonder if you could eliminate the oxygen issue.

I have thought about doing this recently, but bottle bombs scare the shiatzu outta me.

Anyone have experience with this?

 

[Sbe2]

That sucks. Is it drinkable?

Mine isn't. Yet. The pic was all lighting... I'm hoping it lasts through July 4th which would be a month in the bottle.

I made 2 ipas, one bottled for a friend and legged the other... my Father's Day brew - Simcoe and Citra.

It was, kinda tasted like Skittles though. I used Simcoe, Apollo, and Columbus

 

[Sbe2]

You dont need a beer gun, i bottle from the keg with zero oxidation, use that "we dont need no beer gun" thread to learn how, pretty easy.

Yeah bottling IPAs is a crime in my opinion, unless carbonated in a keg

Here is the link, found it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=24678

You better throw me in the slammer then

 

[Braufessor]

I have thought about doing this recently, but bottle bombs scare the shiatzu outta me.

Anyone have experience with this?

I don't think bottle bombs are a significant threat if you are bottling at a reasonable gravity...... 1.015 or so. Over or under carbonated could be an issue though. If you were to put it in at 1.020....then you might have problems. Otherwise, it is just kind of a matter of being prepared to bottle right when you need to.

Maybe I will give it a go on a future batch and see.

 

[RevKev]

Another 1/2oz of belma, bavaria madarina, huell melon and hallertau blanc ran out of CO2 otherwise I would be drinking this today. So DDH it is

View attachment 1497744413360.jpg

 

[EndOfLine]

I don't think bottle bombs are a significant threat if you are bottling at a reasonable gravity...... 1.015 or so. Over or under carbonated could be an issue though. If you were to put it in at 1.020....then you might have problems. Otherwise, it is just kind of a matter of being prepared to bottle right when you need to.

Maybe I will give it a go on a future batch and see.

At my brewery, sometimes we cap our fermenters with 1-5 points to go and we will have over 5psi the next day!

 

[Sbe2]

I don't think bottle bombs are a significant threat if you are bottling at a reasonable gravity...... 1.015 or so. Over or under carbonated could be an issue though. If you were to put it in at 1.020....then you might have problems. Otherwise, it is just kind of a matter of being prepared to bottle right when you need to.

Maybe I will give it a go on a future batch and see.

I will try to give it a go at 1.015/6 on my next attempt.

I will take under carbing any day over oxidation.

At my brewery, sometimes we cap our fermenters with 1-5 points to go and we will have over 5psi the next day!

O boy, kegging with a spunding valve sounds more appealing than a POd wife

 

[Braufessor]

5 psi...... is not a big deal. I believe regular beer bottles are rated to 30 psi. 5 psi would be way under carbed.....

Don't get me wrong, you don't want to be building 5 psi per day for a week. But, if you only have 2-3 gravity points left, you can only build up so much carbonation. You do only want to do it with about 2-3 points left ideally.

 

[JJ900]

I did this kind of by accident.

I bottled a little early on my most recent NEIPA, it was down to 1.014 but was still murky like paint. Sure enough when I drained the fermenter there was almost no yeast on the bottom. After a day in bottles the yeast had fallen and there was some carbonation already. My plan is to drink it frequently enough that I will get some warning if its getting overcarbed. But its too soon to say if there is any positive effect.

 

[Braufessor]

I did this kind of by accident.

I bottled a little early on my most recent NEIPA, it was down to 1.014 but was still murky like paint. Sure enough when I drained the fermenter there was almost no yeast on the bottom. After a day in bottles the yeast had fallen and there was some carbonation already. My plan is to drink it frequently enough that I will get some warning if its getting overcarbed. But its too soon to say if there is any positive effect.

Once the carb hits the point you want, get it all in the fridge and that will slow down additional carbonation, plus it will preserve flavors better if it is cold any way. Be interesting to here how it works out for you.

 

[no_borders]

Second batch of single hop NE style APA, first was 100% simcoe, this beer is 100% Denali. Super dank and super fruity pineapple. Thanks again to everyone who spread the knowledge through this thread. Using these techniques and applying it to other hoppy beer has been a real blast for me. Next single hop will be Columbus, and then I'm on to figuring out a NE Brown IPA. Cheers!

 

[stickyfinger]

Second batch of single hop NE style APA, first was 100% simcoe, this beer is 100% Denali. Super dank and super fruity pineapple. Thanks again to everyone who spread the knowledge through this thread. Using these techniques and applying it to other hoppy beer has been a real blast for me. Next single hop will be Columbus, and then I'm on to figuring out a NE Brown IPA. Cheers!

very interested in your brown ipa pursuit and more single hop results.

 

[Ashevillain]

Second batch of single hop NE style APA, first was 100% simcoe, this beer is 100% Denali. Super dank and super fruity pineapple. Thanks again to everyone who spread the knowledge through this thread. Using these techniques and applying it to other hoppy beer has been a real blast for me. Next single hop will be Columbus, and then I'm on to figuring out a NE Brown IPA. Cheers!

As soon as you said pineapple I had to add this one to the list of hops to try.

 

[crusader1612]

I posted a couple of weeks back abouyt using M36 Libtery Bell yeast to brew a NEIPA.

Heres my post about it. Enjoy

http://beercrusades.blogspot.co.nz/2017/06/m36-liberty-ale-yeast-in-neipa.html

 

[no_borders]

I posted a couple of weeks back abouyt using M36 Libtery Bell yeast to brew a NEIPA.

Heres my post about it. Enjoy

http://beercrusades.blogspot.co.nz/2017/06/m36-liberty-ale-yeast-in-neipa.html

Solid read dude. I've tried the west coast IPA yeast from mangrove jack (m44?) and I reallly think I just under pitched, with old yeast, and really did not like the outcome. Reading some of the tasting notes compared to the recipe I do think you went a little light on the hops for an IPA of this style. I'll do three types of hops at 56 grams each split into to two dry hops, or 168 grams total dry hop, and the same amount for the whirlpool. That said, I tend to knock down the amounts for the single hop APA batches, going 112 grams total whirlpool and 112 total dry hop.

On a side note, how are you rehydrating your dry yeast? I'm not sure if anyone else does this, but I actually rehydrate my dry yeast into starter wort. I know there was once a taboo against it, but one pack s-04 into 1L starter wort shaken as hard as possible takes only a few hours to reach high Krausen. I can get one going the very start of brew day and pitch the whole active starter by the end. I've had amazing results, and I've even sped up grain to glass timings quite a bit.


Sorry if this is a ramble, I've just got out of work and I'm enjoying a few pints of this style as I type this...errors may happen

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Just figured I'd post this in here since it's related to NEIPA talk. The NEIPA I recently made without any flaked stuff,and a cucumber pilsner just took second place in a local homebrew competition. I missed first place by 1 freaking point. Looking at the score cards, I got knocked for appearance by one of the Judges on my NEIPA because it was hazy. This was after I explained to both of them that it was the style and supposed to be that way. I felt like pulling up this thread and showing them the pictures..lol Oh well, I'm happy with second on my very first competition.

 

[JohnConnor]

Have you compared doing late additions vs hopstand-only at all? Lately, I've been curious if late additions are maybe better or equivalent to hop stands.

I haven't. If it were me, I think I'd still add the FO addition/chill and move the 170 degree hop stand addition as a brew day dry hop. It would be interesting to play around with that forsure. I was talking to OldStock on Reddit. He said he's stopped doing anything later than FO because he thought the results from the brew day dry hop was better.

 

[Braufessor]

I just kegged a batch yesterday that was a bit different - nothing major. Pretty much my standard recipe from post #1418. Used 1318 yeast. Only real difference was the hopping. Normal CMG combo. But, I just did 2 additions.
*Addition #1: Chilled wort to 160 or below and added 3 ounces of Citra, 2 of Mosaic, 1 of Galaxy.
*Addition #2: Single Dry hop at Day 2. Same as above.

So, did 6 ounces of whirlpool in one addition and did 6 ounces of Dry hop in one addition early in fermentation. Tasted and looked great going into the keg. We will see how it carbs up.I can't say it was necessarily "better" or anything..... but, it was at least just as good as normal and simpler than the extra additions. Also, I think the hops all dropped out a lot better because it was a single addition early in fermentation. Basically NO hop particulate went into the keg.
*I use the SS brew buckets..... I DO NOT use the little racking arm at all in them. I had no problem at all with "plugged" spigot or lots of unwanted debris getting transferred. And, that was with 6 ounces of Dry hops. I transferred this directly from Primary into Serving Keg. It was 12-14 days since brew day.
Usually, when I do that second dry hop addition, I have more debris that ends up going into my Keg. This streamlined approach seemed to work very well.

 

[milldoggy]

My latest. Using 2565 Kölsch yeast at 62f.

http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/1563415/6-17-ne-base-ipa