New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[k-daddy]

Any noticeable difference in flavor and aroma between the two methods?

I would say the flavor was more full bodied and I did notice a more forward aroma. I did use a different yeast this time (WLP095) vs WLP001 so that was another variable in the mix.

 

[GnenieGone]

Technically is this not an NEIPA. Just a POC ipa. Used an NEIPA hop schedule then added the only dry hop addition at day 2 of fermentation as discussed earlier. Cold crashed at day 7 then, with CO2 purging, kegged today day 8. Not detecting post fermentation diacetyl for the first time in a while. Official NEIPA planned with citra/mosaic/galaxy.

 

[popquizkid]

For anyone who needs to stock up on Mosaic Yakima Valley Hops has a deal on pounds of 2017 Mosaic for $15 today. I already have 2lbs in the freezer or else I would be buying - great deal!

 

[dg2001]

This is my first time brewing this style and I am colorblind. Can someone please tell me if the color is appropriate for this style? It has been in primary for 7 days. One picture is with a flash and one is without. Thanks in advance.

Dan

 

[fragged]

View attachment 552541 View attachment 552542 This is my first time brewing this style and I am colorblind. Can someone please tell me if the color is appropriate for this style? It has been in primary for 7 days. One picture is with a flash and one is without. Thanks in advance.

Dan

Looks like it to me.

 

[tld6008]

View attachment 552541 View attachment 552542 This is my first time brewing this style and I am colorblind. Can someone please tell me if the color is appropriate for this style? It has been in primary for 7 days. One picture is with a flash and one is without. Thanks in advance.

Dan

Looks great! Don't worry have a home brew

 

[brew703]

View attachment 552541 View attachment 552542 This is my first time brewing this style and I am colorblind. Can someone please tell me if the color is appropriate for this style? It has been in primary for 7 days. One picture is with a flash and one is without. Thanks in advance.

Dan

Yep. The color of mine is just like yours. Bout to transfer to keg tomorrow. Currently it's 11 days old. All dry hops went in at day three of fermentation.

 

[tld6008]

Ratios are really meaningless. 40:10 and100:25 and 400:100 are all 4:1...... they would give you a very different beer.

I go 125:125 all the time anymore. If you put both numbers, in any combination, between 75-150 it will make a good beer. You can play with it from there for personal preferences.

Braufessor could you relate what weight additions (grams /gal) you use for the 125/125 schedule and the lactic acid addition also? I am using your grain amounts and all RO water but can't get my head around the water calculators they all seem to give me different results.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor could you relate what weight additions (grams /gal) you use for the 125/125 schedule and the lactic acid addition also? I am using your grain amounts and all RO water but can't get my head around the water calculators they all seem to give me different results.

100% RO
Grams per gallon of mash and sparge water:
.6 gympsum (.8 is you don't use any epsom salt)
.7 CaCl
.3 epsom salt

.2ml lactic/gallon in mash
.1ml/gallon in sparge

 

[tld6008]

100% RO
Grams per gallon of mash and sparge water:
.6 gympsum (.8 is you don't use any epsom salt)
.7 CaCl
.3 epsom salt

.2ml lactic/gallon in mash
.1ml/gallon in sparge

Thank you so much, I really appreciate how much you have helped myself and the entire brewing community

 

[ba-brewer]

No, but drinking my klosch yeast version next to my F1 hybrid. Klosch yeast wins hands down. So you should try it. Never know, might be amazing.

I might make wlp029 the standard in use for NEIPAs

Are you still using WLP029 in your NEIPAs? My wlp029 ferments very fast, like almost to FG within 48 hours of pitching. Does yours work that fast and when do you add your dry hops? How is the clarity?

I made my first attempt at a NEIPA based on post #1418 and intended to ferment with WLP007 but it never took off after 48hrs so I pitched some WLP029 which I had on hand.

 

[dg2001]

View attachment 551849View attachment 551851


Took my first attempt and Brewed this recipe as 15 gallon batch. Kept the same grain bill and hops. The aroma color and appearance are on point. Force carbed at 30psi. Brought it down to 20 for two days, back to serving pressure of 12 psi. Got the water profile to 130:65 Cl:S04. Juicy/ Soft mouthfeel. Better than some of the commercial examples of this style, Awesome Recipe Braufessor!!

40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
8% Flaked Oats
4% White Wheat Malt
4%Flaked Barley
2% Flaked Wheat
2% Honey Malt

60 minute mash
1.5 oz of Warrior 60 min
5 oz Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy whirlpool additions @170F
Dry Hop 1 -2.5 oz
Dry Hop 2 -3 oz

OG 1.065 PH 5.4
FG 1.020

Looks great, I assume these number for each hop, not total, i.e. did you use 10.5 ounces or 2 pounds for the 15 gallon batch?

 

[arnobg]

Second time brewing with this generation of 1318 and my FG IS AT 1.017. Gen 1 went all the way down to 1.013. Anyone else experience this? Seems a bit high.

 

[hazy79]

Looks great, I assume these number for each hop, not total, i.e. did you use 10.5 ounces or 2 pounds for the 15 gallon batch?

Thanks, yes that’s correct, it’s each hop variety so a total of two pounds for the 15 gallon batch.

 

[tld6008]

Second time brewing with this generation of 1318 and my FG IS AT 1.017. Gen 1 went all the way down to 1.013. Anyone else experience this? Seems a bit high.

I have been using WLP095 and always end up at .011 albeit only 3 times so far. Purchase yeast once and harvested off of Blond ale.

 

[anteater8]

Mosaic/Equinox just made it very near the top of my favorite hop combo's list

 

[phyllobeddo]

Second time brewing with this generation of 1318 and my FG IS AT 1.017. Gen 1 went all the way down to 1.013. Anyone else experience this? Seems a bit high.

I bought a pack of 1318 in November of 2016. I overbuild it and keep a few jars on hand. I've used it six times and never finished above 1.014. 1.014, 1.013, 1.012, 1.013, 1.010, and 1.011.

 

[brew703]

Kegged yesterday. Just wanted to pull a sample to check the flavor.
Went exactly as recipe outlines in post 1418. I did one DH addition at day 3 of fermentation. When calculating the IBU's for the WP additions I used 5% utilization. Total IBU is 55 but doesn't drink like it.
I did use S04 this time as I wanted to try it out and I am really satisfied. It has a little bite, good flavor and aroma. I just hope the color doesn't change. I was careful not introducing any oxygen (closed transfer), purged keg several times so have my fingers crossed.

 

[pshankstar]

Ratios are really meaningless. 40:10 and100:25 and 400:100 are all 4:1...... they would give you a very different beer.

I go 125:125 all the time anymore. If you put both numbers, in any combination, between 75-150 it will make a good beer. You can play with it from there for personal preferences.

I am looking to brew a NE IPA this weekend and working on my water profile using Brun Water spreadsheet. Using my filtered house water (wards lab report entered into the spreadsheet) and RO water, 50/50 mix, here are the numbers I am coming up with. Does this look right? Or am I going down the wrong path? Based on your post of going 125:125, I was trying to keep it right around there.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Desired Water Profile - Yellow Balanced
Calcium (PPM) - 126.7
Magnesium (PPM) - 6.0
Sodium (PPM) - 14.5
Sulfate (PPM) - 127.5
Chloride (PPM) - 129.5
Bicarbonate (PPM) - 24.5
Mash PH - 5.4

 

[6midgets]

This thread is a wealth of info. I attempted my first NEIPA loosely based on your recipe and water profile.

 

[dg2001]

What day are most of you transferring from primary to keg?

 

[grassfeeder]

7 or 8 for me.

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

Brewed this up 10 days ago after a 3 yr hiatus from homebrewing. Used wlp007, Crystal Geyser spring water for the mash and sparge, and forgot the malted barley. Dry hopped in primary on day 3 and will keg on Friday. Can't wait!

May have to give this water chemistry thing a try depending on how it comes out.

 

[rwing7486]

Has anyone tried brewing this style with 100% MO instead of a 50/50 mix of 2row and MO? I was thinking of brewing the following beer below using 100% MO with a water profile that has a S04 to Cl ratio of 0.75 but I am second guessing if I should do a split for a base malt.

SG: 1.065
FG : 1.014

Malt
75.5% Marris Otter
9.4% Flaked Oats
9.4% Flaked Wheat
3.8% CaraPils
1.9% Honey Malt

Yeast
A04 Barbarian (Imperial Yeast)

Mash
Single Infusion @ 152F for 60 minutes

Hop Schedule
0.5oz Magnum @ 60 minutes (40 IBUs)

1st Whirlpool @ 190F (10 minutes)
1oz - Citra
1oz - Simcoe

2nd Whirlpool @ 170F ( Hold between 160 and 170F for 20 minutes)
1oz - El Dorado
1oz- Cryo Citra
1oz - Cryo Simcoe

Dry Hop - 3 days post pitching yeast (8 days total dry hop)
1oz- El Dorado
1oz - Cryo Simcoe

Dry Hop - 5 days post pitching yeast (5 days total dry hop)
1oz - El Dorado
1oz - Cryo Citra

 

[Braufessor]

100% Maris Otter definitely won't hurt the beer - might make it better, might not notice a big difference.

Honestly, the real consideration in regard to 100% british pale ale malt, or 100% 2 Row or 50/50 is cost. 2 Row is just cheaper. Honestly, the interesting thing to do would be to brew one with 100% Maris or Golden Promise and the other with 100% 2 row and see if you can really tell the difference...... if not, 100% 2 row would be the way to go because it would save a fairly decent amount of $$$.

 

[rwing7486]

100% Maris Otter definitely won't hurt the beer - might make it better, might not notice a big difference.

Honestly, the real consideration in regard to 100% british pale ale malt, or 100% 2 Row or 50/50 is cost. 2 Row is just cheaper. Honestly, the interesting thing to do would be to brew one with 100% Maris or Golden Promise and the other with 100% 2 row and see if you can really tell the difference...... if not, 100% 2 row would be the way to go because it would save a fairly decent amount of $$$.

Good point. I only mentioned it as I love using MO in SMASH beers, but never really tried it in this style of beer. I will brew it with 100% MO base and then try a 50/50 split next time

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Honestly, the real consideration in regard to 100% british pale ale malt, or 100% 2 Row or 50/50 is cost.

That depends on what country you're in. If one is getting Otter by the sack for the equivalent of US$0.80/lb, it's not a major consideration... Instead, I'm looking at doing a NEIPA with Chevallier heritage malt at about US$1.80/lb - now that's getting flash. The theory is that it has a rich sweetness to it and far more character than even Otter, we'll see.

 

[tld6008]

I am looking to brew a NE IPA this weekend and working on my water profile using Brun Water spreadsheet. Using my filtered house water (wards lab report entered into the spreadsheet) and RO water, 50/50 mix, here are the numbers I am coming up with. Does this look right? Or am I going down the wrong path? Based on your post of going 125:125, I was trying to keep it right around there.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Desired Water Profile - Yellow Balanced
Calcium (PPM) - 126.7
Magnesium (PPM) - 6.0
Sodium (PPM) - 14.5
Sulfate (PPM) - 127.5
Chloride (PPM) - 129.5
Bicarbonate (PPM) - 24.5
Mash PH - 5.4

Why not use 100% RO and follow the additions Braufessor gave me in # 5649. Couldn't be any easier than that, I am through trying to reinvent the wheel every time I prepare to brew.

 

[tld6008]

Brewed this up 10 days ago after a 3 yr hiatus from homebrewing. Used wlp007, Crystal Geyser spring water for the mash and sparge, and forgot the malted barley. Dry hopped in primary on day 3 and will keg on Friday. Can't wait!

May have to give this water chemistry thing a try depending on how it comes out.

How do you make this beer forgetting the malted barley?

 

[pshankstar]

Why not use 100% RO and follow the additions Braufessor gave me in # 5649. Couldn't be any easier than that, I am through trying to reinvent the wheel every time I prepare to brew.

I am not sure how I missed that post! Thank you for pointing out the post number. I just filled up 12 gallons worth of RO water the other day, so I will go that route. Thanks again and I will go that route and brew on!

 

[pshankstar]

With some more reading on this thread I am going to attempt it with the following grain bill and hop schedule.

Grain Bill:
2-Row 52.3%
Pilsner 19.6%
Wheat 19.6%
Flaked Oats 6.5%
Honey Malt 2.0%

Yeast:
A blend of OYL-052 & WY1318 (50/50 blend)

Hop Schedule:
Bravo 1oz - 60 mins (27 IBUS according to Beersmith)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each at flameout (6oz total)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each Dry Hops at day 3 of fermentation (6oz total)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each Dry Hops at day 12 when transferred to keg (6oz total)

Thanks again to @tld6008, I will use 100% RO water following @Braufessor post 5649 with the mineral additions. I will post back here after the beer is kegged and served with some feedback.

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

How do you make this beer forgetting the malted barley?

Forgot to buy it while at the LHBS. Wasn't about to make a 1 hr round trip on brew day when I realized it.

 

[jakturner]

^Pretty sure he means FLAKED barley, like Brau used in the first posted recipe.

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

^Pretty sure he means FLAKED barley, like Brau used in the first posted recipe.

Whoops yep. Forgot FLAKED barley.

 

[JohnK93]

Hey all,

I kegged a batch of this yesterday and was attempting the second dry hop in the keg, but unfortunately I now have 3oz if hops in a weighted muslin bag at the bottom of my keg. Should I leave them be, or wait a few days and transfer the beer to a second keg? Not sure how the hops will affect flavor over time.

BTW, the Citra/mosaic/Galaxy blend tasted amazing one day into the second dry hop!

Thanks,
John

 

[popquizkid]

Whoops yep. Forgot FLAKED barley.

ahh..that makes a lot more sense. I have made it without the flaked barley as well when my local coop was out in the bulk section. I just upped the flaked oats and wheat to compensate. I never buy flaked grains from homebrew store as I can almost always get flaked oats, wheat, barley from the bulk section at the natural foods store. If you have one closer that might make your life easier in the future.

Made this recipe a number of times and often vary the composition of the flaked grain bill depending what I have available. Not sure it makes a huge difference.

 

[VT_jlee]

Hey all,

I kegged a batch of this yesterday and was attempting the second dry hop in the keg, but unfortunately I now have 3oz if hops in a weighted muslin bag at the bottom of my keg. Should I leave them be, or wait a few days and transfer the beer to a second keg? Not sure how the hops will affect flavor over time.

BTW, the Citra/mosaic/Galaxy blend tasted amazing one day into the second dry hop!

Thanks,
John

I always leave my hops in the keg until it kicks, so you'll be fine.

 

[dg2001]

Ok, I decided to keg tonight at day 11. Loosely followed the original recipe. I used 2.5 oz Citra and 0.5 oz Galaxy at flameout (0 min), whirlpool at 165 F (30 mins), and double that on dry hop at day 4 for a total of 10 oz Citra and 2 Galaxy. It’s not carbed yet but one of the best beers I have made in 20 batches or so. I attempted to rack from primary (6.5 G carboy w/carboy cap) to keg under pressure for the first time. Let me tell you, that was a disaster. The racking cane, the beer line, and the keg quick disconnects kept clogging, then the pressure would build high enough to blow the carboy cap off the keg. Halfway through racking I decided to just open the keg and bypass the quick disconnect. Maybe I didn’t expose my beer to to much oxygen. Needless to say I had beer from one end of the kitchen to the other. Can someone with more experience than I shed some light on how you successfully do a closed from carboy to keg without clogging issues due to dry hops? Joys of homebrewing. Lol

 

[Braufessor]

Ok, I decided to keg tonight at day 11. Loosely followed the original recipe. I used 2.5 oz Citra and 0.5 oz Galaxy at flameout (0 min), whirlpool at 165 F (30 mins), and double that on dry hop at day 4 for a total of 10 oz Citra and 2 Galaxy. It’s not carbed yet but one of the best beers I have made in 20 batches or so. I attempted to rack from primary (6.5 G carboy w/carboy cap) to keg under for the first time. Let me tell you, that was a disaster. The racking cane, the beer line, and the keg quick disconnects kept clogging, then the pressure would build high enough to blow the carboy cap off the keg. Halfway through racking I decided to just open the keg and bypass the quick disconnect. Maybe I didn’t expose my beer to to much oxygen. Needless to say I had beer from one end of the kitchen to the other. Can someone with more experience than I shed some light on how you successfully do a closed from carboy to keg without clogging issues due to dry hops? Joys of homebrewing. Lol

I don't do closed transfers with this beer....... I have found it to a be a monumental PITA because of clogging issues.....
Some things you can do if you want to do closed transfer....
1.) Make sure you get the fermenter up on the counter you are using and set in place a couple days before transfer to let things settle out. (Actually - do this no matter how you transfer)
2.) Keep siphon away from the bottom
3.) Maybe cold crash
4.) Some people use a filter
5.) Take the poppets out of the keg posts and take the "guts" out of the black disconnect going on the post

Personally, I just fill the keg with star san, push it all out with CO2. Get everything in place. Release the pressure from the keg, pop the lid, run the tubing from spigot on my fermenter (racking cane for you) and make sure it is long enough to go to the bottom of the keg. Transfer via gravity. I set the lid back on during transfer to minimize the opening. Once the keg gets about half full or 2/3 full, I turn the CO2 on to the keg at a low 2-3 psi to minimize O2 as much as I can. Fill to just below the the CO2 tube. Stop transfer, pull out tubing, Put lid on, open pressure release and let CO2 run through the small head space for 30-60 seconds at low pressure to purge any 02. Then close pressure release and crank up CO2 to 20psi to seal the lid.

** Also, find ways to minimize hop material that is getting moved from one stage to the other - that is a big help. That is why I brew 6.5 gallons and leave wort/beer behind at various stages.

This is what I do and it works perfectly fine. Doing it several times and getting the process you use down is honestly about 80% of the battle. Once you get a process in place and use it, you become very efficient at it.

 

[stickyfinger]

100% Maris Otter definitely won't hurt the beer - might make it better, might not notice a big difference.

Honestly, the real consideration in regard to 100% british pale ale malt, or 100% 2 Row or 50/50 is cost. 2 Row is just cheaper. Honestly, the interesting thing to do would be to brew one with 100% Maris or Golden Promise and the other with 100% 2 row and see if you can really tell the difference...... if not, 100% 2 row would be the way to go because it would save a fairly decent amount of $$$.

i’d like to see that test. keep in mind that the english malts are 25kg/55lbs and the yield can be slightly higher than domestics