New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[craftbrewguru]

this beer looks incredible, what grain bill are you going with for this recipe?

The 100 micron removes everything but still leaves all the good stuff IMO. I don't get hop matter in any of my first pours and I don't cold crash. They have been pouring like this since the first one!
View attachment 399577

 

[doublebogey10]

I believe it was an American variety. My LHBS had 2 varieties, both with the same characteristics. One was about a dollar more per pound so I went with the cheaper one. I'm guessing the more expensive one was imported but neither one said the country of origin or brand name.

Mine only carries German and Belgian. But I've used a North American type (Briess?) on a basic pale ale once and I liked how it turned out. And there's a brewery that I like that apparently uses a domestic pilsner as their base malt. So, just curious how it might apply to this style.

 

[marjen]

My latest batch! So good.

 

[ttuato]

Thanks for the post. Always looking for new hop combinations. I did a 100% Denali that was pure pineapple to my taste, but I have been wanting to use it in an auxiliary role. I want to find something that might rival the C:M:G combo. My favorite by far is the C:M:G in 1:1:1, but I also really enjoyed a Mosaic single-hop version, very complex hop. I might have to try your Citraenali:Galaxy. How many hops are you adding for the hopstand vs the dryhop? I had settled on 12 oz in the dry hop with no kettle hops at all, but after doing a couple hop stands, I am wondering if they are better overall.

6oz total in whirlpool - split 3oz each at 180 degrees and another at 140 degrees 1:1:1. - hold each for 15mins

8oz total in dryhop - split 4oz each at Day 3, then another at day 10. 1:1:2 (feature hop gets 2oz)

The consensus in every "experiment" that I have read about WP vs DH has been that doing both WP & DH results in fuller / brighter / more aromatic beer. All subjective findings mind you, but I am too lazy to do the experiment myself though - I have gotten my process nailed down with doing both so I just stick with it.

 

[Pyg]

What is the consensus on Yeast?

 

[plazola86]

this beer looks incredible, what grain bill are you going with for this recipe?

75% 2 row
10% flaked oats
10% white wheat
3.5% Munich
1.5% honey

I always shoot for these or close to these percentages. The color comes from the Munich, this beer literally glows in the sun. I have tried using crystals for color but do not like the color it gives the beer. Without the Munich you get a lighter yellow color. This has been my best beer yet!

 

[stickyfinger]

What is the consensus on Yeast?

I know that people have used WY1272, Conan, WLP095, WLP002/S04, WLP007, and WY1318 at least. I am a big fan of WLP095 and Conan and a slightly lesser fan of WY1318. I think it becomes a matter of personal preference at some point. WLP095 and Conan are pretty similar to me unless you can coax out a lot of peachiness from the Conan somehow. I don't like Chico as much as it comes off as more bitter/dry and clarifies quicker. The yeasts I've heard discussed most with positive results around here are Conan, WY1272, WLP007, and WY1318.

 

[stickyfinger]

6oz total in whirlpool - split 3oz each at 180 degrees and another at 140 degrees 1:1:1. - hold each for 15mins

8oz total in dryhop - split 4oz each at Day 3, then another at day 10. 1:1:2 (feature hop gets 2oz)

The consensus in every "experiment" that I have read about WP vs DH has been that doing both WP & DH results in fuller / brighter / more aromatic beer. All subjective findings mind you, but I am too lazy to do the experiment myself though - I have gotten my process nailed down with doing both so I just stick with it.

Yes, I know how you feel. I want to experiment, but I end up getting lazy or not wanting a large amount of the "same" beer. I need to just do a split batch to test out the dryhop vs hopstand thing. maybe i'll do it with the CMG combo so I have a lot of awesome beer!

 

[Pyg]

I know that people have used WY1272, Conan, WLP095, WLP002/S04, WLP007, and WY1318 at least. I am a big fan of WLP095 and Conan and a slightly lesser fan of WY1318. I think it becomes a matter of personal preference at some point. WLP095 and Conan are pretty similar to me unless you can coax out a lot of peachiness from the Conan somehow. I don't like Chico as much as it comes off as more bitter/dry and clarifies quicker. The yeasts I've heard discussed most with positive results around here are Conan, WY1272, WLP007, and WY1318.

Maybe I am a Noob,
But not sure what strain "Conan" is, unless you are referring to Omega OYL-052 dipa Yeast?

 

[Tarpon87]

Maybe I am a Noob,
But not sure what strain "Conan" is, unless you are referring to Omega OYL-052 dipa Yeast?

The omega dipa is a Conan strain although there are others that sell it as well. Ill be making a red NEIPA Saturday using the OYL-052, never used it before.
My first NEIPA I did following Braufessor's updated grain bill I used 1272 and it was awesome. Wouldn't hesitate to use it again for a beer like this.

 

[stickyfinger]

Maybe I am a Noob,
But not sure what strain "Conan" is, unless you are referring to Omega OYL-052 dipa Yeast?

there are many versions of Conan commercially available. it is the strain extracted from Heady Topper by the Alchemist. I like Gigayeast's version. WLP095 is believed to be an ancestor of Conan. The Alchemist founder took and warped something like WLP095 from Greg Noonan into Conan (this is speculation)

 

[Pyg]

The omega dipa is a Conan strain although there are others that sell it as well. Ill be making a red NEIPA Saturday using the OYL-052, never used it before.

My first NEIPA I did following Braufessor's updated grain bill I used 1272 and it was awesome. Wouldn't hesitate to use it again for a beer like this.

I got 3 months before I brew. Looking forward to how the Omega works for you.
I used it in a Marris Otter/Mosic smash and got an off flavor.
Was unaware of the need to up later ferment temp for diacetyl.
For this NEIPA might try WL0095

 

[Sbe2]

For all that use a SS brewbucket, how do you dry hop?. Do you pop the lid for split second a throw in your hops, or do you have a special mod, like a hop canon?

Just curious about the O2 exposure...

 

[Braufessor]

For all that use a SS brewbucket, how do you dry hop?. Do you pop the lid for split second a throw in your hops, or do you have a special mod, like a hop canon?

Just curious about the O2 exposure...

Yep - I just open the lid and throw them in.

 

[craftbrewguru]

thanks for the reply! whats your hop schedule look like. I'm going to brew this beer on wednesday changing up the hops a bit with 1318 and then brew again with conan this sunday. what are you doing for your chloride:sulfate ratio and water profile?

75% 2 row
10% flaked oats
10% white wheat
3.5% Munich
1.5% honey

I always shoot for these or close to these percentages. The color comes from the Munich, this beer literally glows in the sun. I have tried using crystals for color but do not like the color it gives the beer. Without the Munich you get a lighter yellow color. This has been my best beer yet!

 

[hezagenius]

Mine only carries German and Belgian. But I've used a North American type (Briess?) on a basic pale ale once and I liked how it turned out. And there's a brewery that I like that apparently uses a domestic pilsner as their base malt. So, just curious how it might apply to this style.

Color turned out decent. I like my NEIPAs on the lighter side in terms of color. The flavor is still pretty raw but I didn't notice detrimental malt flavor from the Pilsner.

 

[mintyice]

I actually prefer pils malt in these beers. I find pale malt + 1318 kind of plays up the sweetness too much for my preference. 50/50 pale/pils split is fun occasionally, and 80 pils/ 20 pale is nice if you want more color.

 

[k-daddy]

80 or 100 mesh would work well. Thinking back I actually did go with 80 mesh which is 170 micron. Still catches everything while letting the good stuff go through. I would also suggest going with the "regular" or bigger size to give you more filter area.

I ordered the regular size filter housing and the 40, 80 and a 170 micron screens. Decided against purchasing the 10/15 micron thinking it might easily clog and perhaps even filter out some flavor like you and others have mentioned. I will be using Co2 pressure to transfer from primary to keg.

 

[plazola86]

thanks for the reply! whats your hop schedule look like. I'm going to brew this beer on wednesday changing up the hops a bit with 1318 and then brew again with conan this sunday. what are you doing for your chloride:sulfate ratio and water profile?

Water profile for this one was 300ppm chloride to 50ppm sulfate and I always shoot for 100-150ppm on calcium. I tried to going "extreme" to really taste the ratio difference on this one. I think this style benefits from a higher chloride ratio. Everyone who tasted it first mentioned the huge hop aroma then the smooth, full body mouth feel. I also mashed at 156 on this one. F.G was at 1.017 but didn't taste too sweet just contributed to the body. I also think these beers benefit from a little sweetness. All this is opposite practice compared to my west coast style IPA's. The hop schedule is the same for all my IPA's. I don't add flameout, whirlpool or dry hops into my IBU contribution. 12 OZ total NOT including the bittering hops.

FWH - to get half of your IBU's (I use any bittering hop I have on hand)

15 min. - to get the rest of your IBU'S (first addition of the hops I'm going to use for whirlpool and dry hop)

Whirlpool/steep at or below 175 - 3 oz for 15 minutes

Whirpool/steep at or below 145 - 3 oz for 15 minutes

Dry hop - 3 oz 3 days after pitching yeast (krausen has just fallen)

Dry hop - 3 oz 5 days before kegging.

 

[Projectfdw]

Had 2 questions for those who have vast experience.

For those who dry hop on day 3- is that 3 days after brewing where brew day is day 1 or brew day is day 0. My batch is fermenting like crazy after pitching on Sunday afternoon. Do I hop today while at peak fermentation or tomorrow.

Also- for those that just drop the hops into the fermentation vessel for the first dry hop, doesn't that technically make the dry hop more than 10 days which is often frowned upon. I'd rather just drop them in but I've been putting in a Muslin bag and removing after 5 days when adding dry hop two.

Thanks

 

[marjen]

Also- for those that just drop the hops into the fermentation vessel for the first dry hop, doesn't that technically make the dry hop more than 10 days which is often frowned upon. I'd rather just drop them in but I've been putting in a Muslin bag and removing after 5 days when adding dry hop two.

Depending on your yeast these really dont need to spend much more than a week in the fermenter. I typically leave them in the fermenter 6-7 days then move to keg. I will add 2 oz of hop when i pitch yeast on day 0. Then usually add more 48-60 hours later depending on the activity. Thats it. If I do add another round it will be on day 5 or 6 then move to keg 2 days later. I throw hops in with no bag. Not had any issues yet and had some very, very tasty beers.

 

[plazola86]

Had 2 questions for those who have vast experience.

For those who dry hop on day 3- is that 3 days after brewing where brew day is day 1 or brew day is day 0. My batch is fermenting like crazy after pitching on Sunday afternoon. Do I hop today while at peak fermentation or tomorrow.

Also- for those that just drop the hops into the fermentation vessel for the first dry hop, doesn't that technically make the dry hop more than 10 days which is often frowned upon. I'd rather just drop them in but I've been putting in a Muslin bag and removing after 5 days when adding dry hop two.

Thanks

I brew Sundays, pitch yeast Sunday afternoon. By Wednesday the krausen has fallen and I add my first round of dry hops. The following Wednesday I keg. So the first round of hops are in there for 7 days total. I would wait tell right after krausen has fallen to add your first round of hops then keg the following week.

 

[Tarpon87]

Had 2 questions for those who have vast experience.

For those who dry hop on day 3- is that 3 days after brewing where brew day is day 1 or brew day is day 0. My batch is fermenting like crazy after pitching on Sunday afternoon. Do I hop today while at peak fermentation or tomorrow.

Also- for those that just drop the hops into the fermentation vessel for the first dry hop, doesn't that technically make the dry hop more than 10 days which is often frowned upon. I'd rather just drop them in but I've been putting in a Muslin bag and removing after 5 days when adding dry hop two.

Thanks

for mine, I brewed and pitched yeast on a Saturday, Tuesday (about 72hrs after pitching) took a sample and I was a couple points above my predicted FG and fermentation was still going (I will skip taking a sample this time), I added my first dry hop in a bag. The following sunday (day 8) I added my second dry hop loose and never removed the first dry hop. Day 12 I racked to keg. Best aroma in a beer ive ever had.

 

[stickyfinger]

I brew Sundays, pitch yeast Sunday afternoon. By Wednesday the krausen has fallen and I add my first round of dry hops. The following Wednesday I keg. So the first round of hops are in there for 7 days total. I would wait tell right after krausen has fallen to add your first round of hops then keg the following week.

this is my practice as well mostly. 7 days on hops. 14 or even 21 have worked when i couldn't keg on time.

 

[marjen]

I usually add 2 oz at pitch, then follow up with 8 oz 48-60 hrs post pitch. Keg it on day 6 or 7.

 

[thedon986]

I add my first round of dry hops at fairly high krausen and then the second round when fermentation is slowing down. Google biotransformation in dry hopping. I think dry hopping at high krausen helps maintain the haze and juiciness which is the goal of this style.

 

[Braufessor]

Thinking about following suit with some of you and doing a dry hop at transfer to fermenter and doing second one at day 2-3 ...... probably try that this weekend.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

I have dry hopped concurrent with yeast pitch, but I'm not sure if it gained any benefit over dry hopping at or slightly after high kreusen. "Conventional wisdom" says that the volatile aromatics could be somewhat reduced because of CO2 scrubbing during the most vigorous part of the fermentation.
It would be interesting to hear the results with side-by-side comparison from somebody who brews this style more than I do (I only brew it 2-3 times a year, as I'm mostly a German lager brewer).

 

[plazola86]

Thinking about following suit with some of you and doing a dry hop at transfer to fermenter and doing second one at day 2-3 ...... probably try that this weekend.

Curious what the results will be.

 

[popquizkid]

I ordered the regular size filter housing and the 40, 80 and a 170 micron screens. Decided against purchasing the 10/15 micron thinking it might easily clog and perhaps even filter out some flavor like you and others have mentioned. I will be using Co2 pressure to transfer from primary to keg.

Just curious which filter housing material you guys are using. The Black Poly? Something like this?

https://vacmotion.com/Details.aspx?Cat=InlineFilters&Id=2055

Can't tell which one is food safe, etc.

 

[plazola86]

Just curious which filter housing material you guys are using. The Black Poly? Something like this?

https://vacmotion.com/Details.aspx?Cat=InlineFilters&Id=2055

Can't tell which one is food safe, etc.

If you click on home - inline strainers - all strainers. At the bottom of the page there is a "chemical compatibility" chart. They actually have beer on there and you could check what best suits yours needs and what temp they're safe at.

 

[mintyice]

Anyone try adding cucumber to this beer? Thinking about making a Tired Hands Fuzzy Green clone soon.

 

[marjen]

Thinking about following suit with some of you and doing a dry hop at transfer to fermenter and doing second one at day 2-3 ...... probably try that this weekend.

I have done this the last 3 batches and all have tasted great. I throw 2 oz in when i transfer to fermenter. I actually put them in first then pour the wort over them. I then do my main dry hop round (8oz) around day 48-60 hours after pitch. Had great aroma and juicy taste. Not sure if its better than waiting with all of it or not, but its working well so far.

 

[stonebrewer]

Ditto.

 

[Hannabrew]

As long as it's not scrubbing out too much Aroma and flavor, there's nothing but upside to this approach as it completely limits the oxygen exposure. I think I will try this the next batch as well

 

[stickyfinger]

I would also consider your blowoff setup if doing this. You could plug up your setup with all of the hops.

 

[marjen]

I am thinking of a different malt bill this weekend.

Currently I use 10# 2-row, 1.5# white wheat, .5 lb flaked oats, .5 lb carapils and 4 oz of crystal 15.

Linking of going 10# 2-row, 1 lb white wheat, 1 lb Munich, 1 lb honey malt, 1 lb flaked oats.

What will I lose killing the carapils and crystal 15?

 

[Hannabrew]

For my latest batch I tried some LoDO methods including not sparging and unfortunately missed my OG by about 10 points (1.055 instead of 1.066).

To compensate for this somewhat, I am adding 8 ounces of dextrose (dissolved in boiled and cooled water) to the fermenter along with my first dry-hop.

Have others done this before in this style?

 

[specharka]

I've used the guidelines from this thread in altogether different styles of beer with different yeast strains, and it WORKS. I've yet to make a beer in this vein that has lacked in mouthfeel, head retention, or aroma. The recipes are always evolving but still consist of a large portion of flaked adjunct, a high chloride to sulfate ratio (120-200:80-120), and a mash pH around 5.35.

Just a few of my recent forays:
1) Brettanomyces IPA, fermented with OYL-218
2) BYO Julius clone, fermented with WY1318
3) Rye Saison-Brett, fermented with Hill Farmstead Dorothy dregs

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494458069.081430.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494458086.019390.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494458122.946599.jpg

 

[elbinwyp]

I've used the guidelines from this thread in altogether different styles of beer with different yeast strains, and it WORKS. I've yet to make a beer in this vein that has lacked in mouthfeel, head retention, or aroma. The recipes are always evolving but still consist of a large portion of flaked adjunct, a high chloride to sulfate ratio (120-200:80-120), and a mash pH around 5.35.

Just a few of my recent forays:
1) Brettanomyces IPA, fermented with OYL-218
2) BYO Julius clone, fermented with WY1318
3) Rye Saison-Brett, fermented with Hill Farmstead Dorothy dregs

View attachment 399934View attachment 399935View attachment 399936

I have OYL-218 in the fridge and have too many recipes I want to try it in. Would you recommend starting with a NEIPA? Any feedback on how it came out?