New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[emr25]

I get that on freshly dry hopped beer. It is the fine hop dust, give it a week and it will settle out and the bite will go away. I find these start to shine at 2-3 weeks in the keg. The first 5 pints I get a bunch of hop dust when I dry hop in keg. Debating on trimming my dip tube to reduce the pick up of it.

Thanks, I was mostly thinking about the yeast but fine hop particles may be the problem.

I pulled another 10 oz sample tonight and it is night and day from yesterday. Still a very faint spiciness/tingle, but nowhere near what it was.

I get a great grapefruit/pineapple hop juice flavor without much apparent bitterness, which could make this batch dangerous at ~7.8% ABV.

 

[Braufessor]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

 

[tjosborne]

No need to cut the dip tube. Get one of these guys. You always draw from the top of the keg down. I have 4 of them now and they work great.



http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com

So do you just throw the hops right in the keg, no bag or anything? How much beer do one of those leave or will it get it all out?

 

[nbbyrd]

First of all, thanks to all of y'all for the wealth of knowledge and information in this thread and on this forum. I've been slowly learning more and more each day and try to become a better brewer with each batch. With that being said, I just kegged for the first time in my first kegerator that I built this weekend--and it was an iteration of this recipe.

I used 2-Row for the base (77%) with equal amounts of the adjuncts and a little corn sugar at the end of the boil to up my Abv and dry it out a bit. Columbus for a first wort hop bittering charge and then equal amounts of Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe at flame out, whirlpool, and one round of dry hop after 7 days in primary and with no secondary. Also my first time using WLP095 Burlington Ale yeast and it did great! I saved a little from the pouch and stepped up a starter that is going strong in another IPA right now too.

Force carbonated at 30 psi and 38 degrees and then purged and set to serving pressure (~8 psi) 24 hours later. I'm a fan of the cloudy orange juice look and didn't quite get it, but it is a lovely glowing hazy orange and tastes and smells delicious. Notes of bright orange and citrus blossoms, tropical fruit, and stone fruit, with just the right amount of balanced bitterness. Looking forward to my next batch!

Cheers!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1485219984.294135.jpg

 

[murphyslaw]

So I did as Braufessor suggested and made a blonde ale (centennial blonde) with the first generation of giga yeasts Vermont ipa. I just tasted my first glass and I'm getting a lot of esters. Is that normal? I know it's supposed to be of English origin but it's not something Ive noticed in the tree house or hill farmstead beers I've tried.

I fermented at 68 for 14 days. For my NE ipa, I started at 64 and planned to ramp up 1 or 2 degrees a day but after tasting my blonde, I don't think I'll go any higher than 65.

I've tried using wlp002 in a pale ale and the mix of hops and esters did not suit my tastes. I know a lot of people like that, though.

 

[PissyFingers]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

1 question, can you smell/taste a difference from only dry hopping in the primary as opposed to your usual double dry hop method, is the aroma loss
really noticeably?

cheers!

 

[Braufessor]

1 question, can you smell/taste a difference from only dry hopping in the primary as opposed to your usual double dry hop method, is the aroma loss
really noticeably?

cheers!

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

My only hesitation for some people in doing all the dry hopping in the primary is making sure your process still allows you to transfer beer to the keg without getting all kinds of hop debris, trub, etc..... I have minimal trub into fermenter to start with and the conical type bottom in my Brew Buckets lets most stuff settle out pretty well, so I don't have a big problem getting unwanted stuff into my keg.

 

[olotti]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

Man those fermenters are awesome. Since their conicals do u drain off the trub and hop debris before transferring? Also let us know how you do in the competition.

 

[Braufessor]

Man those fermenters are awesome. Since their conicals do u drain off the trub and hop debris before transferring? Also let us know how you do in the competition.

No.... the spigot basically sits above most of the cone. So, there is kind of a half gallon or so of "dead space" under the spigot. Everything just kind of settles down in that cone and I can drain beer off from above the gunk that settles out.

To be honest - before I bought those I used bottling buckets for several years. Basically the same principal. Spiedel fermenters would be good too - a lot of people use those and they are cheaper as they are plastic.

Also saw these a while back - they are still a bit pricey, but they are cheaper than the SS Brew Buckets I have.
https://www.chapmanequipment.com/collections/fermenters

I do love the SS Brew Buckets though. One of the best purchases I have ever made in regard to brewing.

 

[olotti]

No.... the spigot basically sits above most of the cone. So, there is kind of a half gallon or so of "dead space" under the spigot. Everything just kind of settles down in that cone and I can drain beer off from above the gunk that settles out.

To be honest - before I bought those I used bottling buckets for several years. Basically the same principal. Spiedel fermenters would be good too - a lot of people use those and they are cheaper as they are plastic.

Also saw these a while back - they are still a bit pricey, but they are cheaper than the SS Brew Buckets I have.
https://www.chapmanequipment.com/collections/fermenters

I do love the SS Brew Buckets though. One of the best purchases I have ever made in regard to brewing.

Ok cool. I use mainly my three glass carboys, but I've thought about one of those plastic conicals but I'm just not sure where the benefit would be to buy one since I love the glass as I'm anal and I love to see what's happening during fermentation and I have my racking procedure down now to where I pretty much get zero debris when I rack to my bottling bucket. If there is yeast in the bottle which there usually is that's because I had to really minimize my cold crash times due to as you know the oxidation issues I was having but atleast that settles out with fridge time.

 

[Jmash]

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

How does the flavor compare to the original recipe? I love the original but wouldn't mind a little more pineappley flavor

 

[PissyFingers]

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

My only hesitation for some people in doing all the dry hopping in the primary is making sure your process still allows you to transfer beer to the keg without getting all kinds of hop debris, trub, etc..... I have minimal trub into fermenter to start with and the conical type bottom in my Brew Buckets lets most stuff settle out pretty well, so I don't have a big problem getting unwanted stuff into my keg.

Good to know, thanks! Yeah i have the same buckets as you but i swapped out
the lids on both of mine for the domed versions so i can get a bit more headspace for fermenting a full 23Litres and not worry about blow off issues with aggressive yeasts. My STC 1000 prob sits in the thermowell which makes
temp control pretty accurate.

Im doing a Brooklyn/Galaxy/Mosaic version as we speak, i thinks ill drop all the hops in the primary, cheers for the response.

 

[lilbova3]

So I did as Braufessor suggested and made a blonde ale (centennial blonde) with the first generation of giga yeasts Vermont ipa. I just tasted my first glass and I'm getting a lot of esters. Is that normal? I know it's supposed to be of English origin but it's not something Ive noticed in the tree house or hill farmstead beers I've tried.

I fermented at 68 for 14 days. For my NE ipa, I started at 64 and planned to ramp up 1 or 2 degrees a day but after tasting my blonde, I don't think I'll go any higher than 65.

I've tried using wlp002 in a pale ale and the mix of hops and esters did not suit my tastes. I know a lot of people like that, though.

What kind of esters? Banana and bumble gum maybe?

Another brewing friend of mine has found Conan to throw those esters if not dry hopped enough.

 

[murphyslaw]

Not banana or bubblegum.* I didn't put my finger on what fruit flavor I was getting but it was that distinct English ale character that I get from wlp002 and commercial ESBs and such.*

But if that is less noticeable with dry hops that will be fine. The blonde is just a means to an end-2nd generation Conan for the NE ipa. Thanks!

 

[HObrew]

Here's mine coming along. OG 1.052 just tested it at 1.010

Today is day 10. I will be closed transferring into a dry hopping keg tomorrow. And then force carbonating probably Friday night instead of Saturday day 14.

I'm trying to get this drinkable by Sunday (Lunar New year).

So far it tastes great despite that it is warm and has only one dry hop addition. May be a slight bit more bitter than the original recipe since I used 1oz warrior as opposed to .75oz


This is my first all grain batch and OG was a little lower than expected.

6lb 2row
6lb stone path (Maris otter equivalent)
1/4 lb honey malt
.3 lb wheat
.5lb barley
.75lb oats

Mash came out to ph 5 and 151 degrees. I added some boiling water (don't know if this is a no no) and at 25 minutes finally got it to 154

May have sparged a little too quickly.
Post boil volume was 5.5 gallons

Hops bittering 1oz warrior
Then same hop schedule but substitute even parts citra, mosaic, amarillo.

I can't wait to drink this! It tastes great so far!

 

[murphyslaw]

Here's mine coming along. OG 1.052 just tested it at 1.010

Today is day 10. I will be closed transferring into a dry hopping keg tomorrow. And then force carbonating probably Friday night instead of Saturday day 14.

I'm trying to get this drinkable by Sunday (Lunar New year).

So far it tastes great despite that it is warm and has only one dry hop addition. May be a slight bit more bitter than the original recipe since I used 1oz warrior as opposed to .75oz


This is my first all grain batch and OG was a little lower than expected.

6lb 2row
6lb stone path (Maris otter equivalent)
1/4 lb honey malt
.3 lb wheat
.5lb barley
.75lb oats

Mash came out to ph 5 and 151 degrees. I added some boiling water (don't know if this is a no no) and at 25 minutes finally got it to 154

May have sparged a little too quickly.
Post boil volume was 5.5 gallons

Hops bittering 1oz warrior
Then same hop schedule but substitute even parts citra, mosaic, amarillo.

I can't wait to drink this! It tastes great so far!

Nice!

I don't think there's anything wrong with adding boiling water to increase your mash temp, but next time you might want to do it sooner if you can. 25 minutes in you've already got a lot of the conversion done. Of course, you probably didn't plan on undershooting and didn't have boiling water on hand. I think 151 would be fine anyway, though, so don't sweat it.

 

[LateraLex]

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

 

[HObrew]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

Hey! You live nearby.

I think I heard that end of active fermentation hop additions cause cloudiness and attatch to yeast cells. Maybe they get kicked around with the yeast. Don't know if it's possible to overdo it in one shot during that stage.

I'm only 4 batches and 2 ipas in so I can't really give a scientific or even 100% correct answer.

 

[murphyslaw]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

Lots of recipes call for double hopping, including Pliny. My understanding is that the difference comes from the contact time with the beer. A 10 day dry hop can taste different than a 4 day dry hop, so you can layer those flavors/aromas.

But in this case, doing the first round of hops at the end of fermentation is also supposed to result in particular interactions between the hops and the active yeast that effect flavor and other things.

 

[stickyfinger]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

I always just add them all in at one time to primary. it is easy and works well.

 

[stickyfinger]

How does the flavor compare to the original recipe? I love the original but wouldn't mind a little more pineappley flavor

I JUST made a sort of maltier NEIPA with a lot of crystal 60L that I added a ton of Denali dry hops to. The resulting beer smells like a ripe piece of pineapple. I did also use 1318 for the first time in a year or so as well, so not sure how much that contributes to the pineapple perception. However, I think the Denali will give you pineapple if that is what you are after.

 

[Steveg229]

I brewed a version of this up on saturday morning and decided to use Imperial organics A20 Citrus yeast strain. OG of 1.057 Pitched at noon with fermentation chamber set to 69F. Fermentation started later that evening and by Sunday morning it was vigorously fermenting. The fermentation chamber smells like fruity/citrusy delicousness. Fermentation appeared to be just about complete already as of monday night, so I put in dry hop #1 and will add second set of dry hops on Saturday. I am really looking forward to this batch.

 

[z-bob]

Is the cloudiness something you aspire to in this style, or is it just tolerated? I don't get it.

 

[scottsor]

Is the cloudiness something you aspire to in this style, or is it just tolerated? I don't get it.

It's a byproduct of the type of beer I want to make. I enjoy very juicy, hop forward, low bitterness IPAs and the methods I use to achieve that result in a hazy beer.

Nothing in my process is there solely to create haze, it just happens.

 

[FruityHops]

Is the cloudiness something you aspire to in this style, or is it just tolerated? I don't get it.

The hazy/cloudy appearance isn't sought after in and of itself. It is part of the style because of the grains with high protein content such as flaked oats and/or flaked or malted wheat and because of dry hopping during active fermentation.

http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/23/biotransformation-vs-standard-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

 

[milldoggy]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

The only reason I do two charges is I use a stainless hop tube for filtering, if I add to many hops, the hop mass is too dense. I feel they get more contact time and better extraction when split up

 

[murphyslaw]

I find it interesting that so many people shy away from saying that haze is a goal. To me, its one of its defining characteristics of the emerging style, just as it is with a hefe or wit, or just as clarity is important to regular IPA. I get that you might personally be just as happy with a beer that tastes like a NE IPA but looks like a West Coast IPA, but in the sense of describing the style, the haze is one of things that makes it different. If mine came out clear, I would view it as a flaw for a NE IPA. Appearance plays a role in taste, too, I think.

It strikes me as a concession to those who have never had one but are dismissive, so they don't look at you so funny. I say celebrate the diversity! My first NE IPA was like my first sour beer. It was so different than anything I had tried before that it immediately convinced me that craft beer is not a bubble. It showed me that innovation still exists even in the most crowded of styles.

Just my 2 cents, but I'd love to hear others' take on this.

 

[HObrew]

I find it interesting that so many people shy away from saying that haze is a goal. To me, its one of its defining characteristics of the emerging style, just as it is with a hefe or wit, or just as clarity is important to regular IPA. I get that you might personally be just as happy with a beer that tastes like a NE IPA but looks like a West Coast IPA, but in the sense of describing the style, the haze is one of things that makes it different. If mine came out clear, I would view it as a flaw for a NE IPA. Appearance plays a role in taste, too, I think.

It strikes me as a concession to those who have never had one but are dismissive, so they don't look at you so funny. I say celebrate the diversity! My first NE IPA was like my first sour beer. It was so different than anything I had tried before that it immediately convinced me that craft beer is not a bubble. It showed me that innovation still exists even in the most crowded of styles.

Just my 2 cents, but I'd love to hear others' take on this.

Agreed. Appearances contribute to perception of flavor.

Neipas look like juice, taste juicy, feel juicy in the mouth. It's a package deal.

 

[stickyfinger]

Agreed. Appearances contribute to perception of flavor.



Neipas look like juice, taste juicy, feel juicy in the mouth. It's a package deal.

I've come to like the haze as well. I know my NEIPA will still be hoppy and delicious if it still is hazy. Once they clear, it usually means it is starting enter the mellower, rounder, less-hoppy phase that I am trying to hold off for as long as possible.

 

[murphyslaw]

Neipas look like juice, taste juicy, feel juicy in the mouth. It's a package deal.

Exactly.