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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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if you brew ipa's often, ya gotta buy hops in bulk. i've been getting them from hopsdirect, but I know there are a couple other good sources to buy by the lb. pretty much cuts the price in half, and the hops are fresher.

Easier said than done - when you live in New Zealand - Can't get bulk US hops here. and NZ Hops are pretty hard to get in bulk as well (NZ Hops hold a monopoly for the commercial guys here)
I have a mate who's just gone commercial on a 200Lt system, and He's going to be getting me some bulk stuff, but outside of that its difficult.
(he gets 5kg lots)
 
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.
 
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.

If you haven't made a NEIPA yet, ratios are the last things you should worry about honestly.
 
Hey Brau just curious, I am about to brew this and am back and forth on where to dial in my numbers.

I have had Treehouse Julius and quite a few of Trilliums IPAs. I LOVED the Julius flavor and mouth feel. I was not a fan of the Trillium beers. They had a very weird type of flavor to me(almost astringent?) tasting.

With that said, if you've had both of those beers, what would you say Treehouse uses as their chloride:sulfate ratio? That is what I'd like to aim for but don't know the difference as I haven't made a NE IPA yet so haven't played around with ratios.

I have actually only had treehouse once.... so, it is probably the NEIPA I am least familiar with. That said...... from my own observations and giving beer to other people for blind tasting.... there just is not a substantial difference. Perhaps even undetectable in my opinion (as long as you are talking about not going to total extremes.)

Honestly, as long as you are in a reasonable range - it won't make a significant difference.

That said - I guess if I was recommending, I would say to do one of the following:
120 Sulfate:120 Chloride
or
70 Sulfate:140 chloride

Something like that, with 100% RO water is going to put you right in the ballpark.
 
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.
 
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.

What hops did you use?
Do you know what your FG was?

For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.
 
What hops did you use?

Do you know what your FG was?



For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.


I used galaxy, mosaic, and citra and fg was 1.018 from 1.076...this was a doublish IPA
 
What hops did you use?

Do you know what your FG was?



For whatever reason, my NEIPAs regularly hit 80%+ attenuation regardless of the grains I use so I sometimes end up a little thinner (1.010) than I want. I added 0.5# lactose in a brew and also 0.5# maltodextrin. Color, mouthfeel and gravity (1.014) were really good but I had maybe a tad too much sweetness, but that was with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy so the beer was going to have some sweetness anyway. I'm just going to start adding 0.5# maltodextrin at the end of the boil and see where that gets me mouthfeel-wise.


I used galaxy, mosaic, and citra and fg was 1.018 from 1.076...this was a doublish version
 
So this happened, forgot I was out of honey malt and added .5lb of lactose. It turned out awesome, didn't add a lot of sweetness and the mouthfeel is what I think we're all searching for.

I just had a beer with lactose recently and instantly wondered if adding some to NE IPA might be a good move. Interesting to hear! I suppose it is a lot more calories per beer though, and it is a death wish for lactose intolerant friends!
 
Here is the recipe, I was mistaken, I added .75lbs lactose. The steep was actually 30-40min at 165-170. Its just how I entered it into brewsmith. Also I'm set at 80% eff.
68% Pale 2Row
20% Marris Otter
7% Flaked Oats
5% Lactose

10 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
3 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
1 lbs Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM)
12.0 oz Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM)
0.35 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.35 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.20 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 45.0 min
0.35 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.35 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 30.0 min
0.25 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 30.0 min
1.25 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 5.0 min
0.75 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 5.0 min
0.75 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 5.0 min
3.00 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 5.0 min
2.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 5.0 min
1.75 oz Citra [14.10 %] - Boil 0.0 min
0.75 oz Galaxy [14.80 %] - Boil 0.0 min
0.75 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.30 %] - Boil 0.0 min
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
1.00 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
1.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days
 
If you haven't made a NEIPA yet, ratios are the last things you should worry about honestly.

What things are you referring to?

-I have my brewing setup pretty locked down, and am able to keep mash temps within 1°F of setpoint
-I always make starters and use calculators so I'm pitching the right amount of yeast
-I have a lab grade pH meter so that I can keep all my pH dialed in.
-I have a glycol chiller setup on my Conicals so that I can keep temps within .5°F, do co2 pressurized transfers, and purge with co2 after each dry hop addition
-I keg so no worries with bottle conditioning
-I keep my sanitation game on point

Anything else I'm missing? I've made plenty of great beers and IPAs, just never a NE IPA which are definitely my new favorite beer.
 
What things are you referring to?

-I have my brewing setup pretty locked down, and am able to keep mash temps within 1°F of setpoint
-I always make starters and use calculators so I'm pitching the right amount of yeast
-I have a lab grade pH meter so that I can keep all my pH dialed in.
-I have a glycol chiller setup on my Conicals so that I can keep temps within .5°F, do co2 pressurized transfers, and purge with co2 after each dry hop addition
-I keg so no worries with bottle conditioning
-I keep my sanitation game on point

Anything else I'm missing? I've made plenty of great beers and IPAs, just never a NE IPA which are definitely my new favorite beer.

Sounds like you'll make an awesome NEIPA! Go for it! I'd take Brau's advice on the starting water profile. Personally, I like to either boost by chloride and sulfate to around 100 ppm or just boost the chloride to 100 ppm and leave the sulfate at whatever it is from the tap (mine is around 15 ppm depending on the season.) You'll figure out what you like the more you brew the style. The sulfate gives a much more drying character that can be very pleasant but can make smaller alcohol versions taste thinner.
 
Sounds like you'll make an awesome NEIPA! Go for it! I'd take Brau's advice on the starting water profile. Personally, I like to either boost by chloride and sulfate to around 100 ppm or just boost the chloride to 100 ppm and leave the sulfate at whatever it is from the tap (mine is around 15 ppm depending on the season.) You'll figure out what you like the more you brew the style. The sulfate gives a much more drying character that can be very pleasant but can make smaller alcohol versions taste thinner.

Thanks I sure hope so. Right now I'm using my grainfather but hope to move my main 3V setup over to the new house soon. I start all my beers with 100% RO water and build them up. I've been messing around getting my water from different places to see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).

One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like. It wasn't the whole beer overall, it was one thing I tasted that I have tasted in 1 or two other brands before that I just don't like, and I feel like it has to do with something in the water like either too much sulfate or chloride maybe(but I have no idea of what too much of those taste like in a beer).

I've read about people adding salts to a beer to see how more chloride would make it taste or how more sulfate would make it taste, but I have no idea how to break it down that small to know how much to add. I thought about pouring an IPA that I like I to two glasses, and just adding a few granules at a time to boost the chloride in one and the sulfate in the other to see what it does to the taste and see if I can pick it out.
 
see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).
...
One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like.
...
I've read about people adding salts to a beer to see how more chloride would make it taste or how more sulfate would make it taste, but I have no idea how to break it down that small to know how much to add. I thought about

I would bet that your RO quest is not going to be fruitful, but what do i know.

I wonder if your Trillium was super yeasty and fresh? That can sometimes come off as astringent due to yeast bite or hop particles in the beer that can be tannic. You might find that your own NE IPA has this character at first but that it mellows nicely with time. It depends on the yeast and hops used in my experience. To me, more sulfate in a beer adds to that character as well, but it can be pleasant, as I said. Maybe try for lower sulfate on your first go round?

I've never tried spiking my beer with sulfate or chloride. Sounds interesting. I'd try to make a solution of each salt first though and spike via volume of the solution to ensure that it is mixed well and dissolved.
 
I brewed my first batch of 2017 today! I brewed 34 batches last year and my other NE IPA was the best of the year. I'm hoping this one is even better than the last. I used more adjuncts this time than last. Hopefully the Pilsner malt will turn out good.

2.5 gallon batch

2 lb Maris Otter 2 row
2 lb Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner
8 oz Flaked Oats
4 oz Flaked Barley
4 oz Weyermann Wheat (white)
2 oz Flaked Wheat
2 oz Gambrinus Honey Malt
2 oz Acid Malt

2 g Magnum 60 min

14 g Citra - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
4 g Columbus - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)

14 g Citra - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
4 g Columbus - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)

Dry Hop:

Day 3
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 9
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 12 - cold crash
Day 14 - keg

Yeast - Wyeast 1318. Pitched a 1L starter @ 63 degrees that had spun for 19 hours.
Mashed @ 153 for 1 hour 45 minutes.
OG was 1.061. Mash efficiency 82.9% per Beersmith.
Krausen was forming and there was pressure on the air lock a couple of hours after pitching.
 
Sorry Brau one other question, when you refer to weyermann wheat in your recipe, are you referring to weyermann white wheat?

There are so many different ones they make so I want to be sure to grab the right one.
 
Sorry Brau one other question, when you refer to weyermann wheat in your recipe, are you referring to weyermann white wheat?

There are so many different ones they make so I want to be sure to grab the right one.

Yeah - regular weyerman wheat.

To be honest though..... I can't claim that absolute precision is necessary.

Pretty sure that the following will get you a great beer -
80% Base Malt..... 2 Row, GP, MO, Pils.... whatever combo or single malt.
18% Flaked grains/wheat.... again.... probably any combo of these.... don't worry if you don't have each one, just make up for it with another one you have on hand.
2% Honey malt.... I do like the honey malt addition for a bit of color, a bit of malt sweetness, but without using much caramel malt.

Beyond that.... I don't know that anything in particular is going to make or break the beer.
 
I've been messing around getting my water from different places to see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).

One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like. It wasn't the whole beer overall, it was one thing I tasted that I have tasted in 1 or two other brands before that I just don't like, and I feel like it has to do with something in the water like either too much sulfate or chloride maybe(but I have no idea of what too much of those taste like in a beer).

Ha..... I actually HAVE sent water in from my local walmart to Ward Labs - three times over the course of a few years! I just don't trust "the man." All 3 times though, it came back close to zero's just as RO water should. So, I consider it good at this point.

Also, you can get a a TDS meter - they are relatively cheap and accurate and will tell you if it is truly RO water or not. Ultimately, all RO water is the same if it is truly being RO filtered.

Trillium beer can be hit and miss. Most I have had have been good to great. The few I have had that were bad were definitely because they were excessively yeasty and it gave the beer a real harsh bite to it. Plus, I think their beer has a pretty firm yeast character/tartness to it. Trillium does not really come off as a sulfate or chloride heavy beer in my opinion.
 
When bottling, what is recommended amount of priming sugar used for 5 gallons for this style of beer?
 
Came across this thread while looking for a NE style recipe. Haven't gotten all the way through it yet but lots of good info!

First off, I'm fairly new to brewing. I've done a few 1 gallon BIAB brews but it's been a little while, looking to get back into it with 2.5 gallon batches.

I found a recipe for a Congress St clone but this one looks better. I want to use you grain recipe with Columbus and Galaxy hops. Can someone let me know if I'm close with these numbers?

2.5 gallon BIAB

Water: RO plus the gypsum and CaCl that is in OP

2-Row 2lbs
Maris Otter 2lbs
Flaked oats .25lbs
Flaked barley .25lbs
Wheat ????
Honey malt ????

Columbus .5oz @ 60 mins
Columbus .75 @ flameout
Galaxy 3oz Columbus.75oz dry hop

Mash @ 150-153 1 hour
Yeast: WLP-007 (supposedly what Trillium uses)
 
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