New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[JoeMamasIPA]

Yeah - this shipment was above and beyond the call of duty for sure. he lives in Boston and goes up to Vermont from time to time. I pack and send beer out his way and then he has the box and packing stuff to send some back when he picks some up. But, this was a nice surprise.

Might need to send him some "vacation" money for a trip to Tree House

Best Christmas Present Ever. That beer line at Treehouse is something to behold. Not bad if you just want cans, but throw a growler in the mix and you are looking at a two hour wait (that is worth every second).

 

[Jmash]

Honestly I waited in line at trillium for 45 minutes. paid 18 bucks for a 4 pack and thought it wasn't worth it. Braufessors IPA came out better than their mettles in my opinion and everyone I shared it with.

 

[grassfeeder]

Honestly I waited in line at trillium for 45 minutes. paid 18 bucks for a 4 pack and thought it wasn't worth it. Braufessors IPA came out better than their mettles in my opinion and everyone I shared it with.

I think they're having issues scaling to the level they're at. I get back to Boston once or twice a year for biz and I frequently get some to bring home and I've tasted a drop off in quality over the last 1.5 years. I should probably say consistency really.

 

[Braufessor]

Honestly I waited in line at trillium for 45 minutes. paid 18 bucks for a 4 pack and thought it wasn't worth it. Braufessors IPA came out better than their mettles in my opinion and everyone I shared it with.

Honestly, I think that is something I have learned as I have tasted many of the different "hard-to-get" beers..... I have had a lot of good ones for sure and some that were truly great. However, they can also be hit and miss as well. In particular, I have found that to be true as breweries grow and struggle to scale up to much larger production. My experience with Trillium has been like that. I have drain poured a couple of their beers. Many were very good, and some were phenomenal. I will say the 3 Trillium out of this batch I have tried so far have all be really good. Their stout is excellent - did not even realize they made a stout!

I also think we as home brewers are capable of making beer for ourselves that can rival a lot of these beers. I am not saying I make beer that is "better" than these breweries..... but, I can make it the way I like it, to suit my personal preferences (in particular, I really prefer ABV under 6% for instance). I have thought the same on more than one occasion while drinking an expensive commercial beer....... "The one I have on tap right now is better (at least to me and my friends.)"

It is great to sample and compare different beers - But, the more I have a chance to sample, the happier I am with drinking my own beer that I have on tap.

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

Honestly I waited in line at trillium for 45 minutes. paid 18 bucks for a 4 pack and thought it wasn't worth it. Braufessors IPA came out better than their mettles in my opinion and everyone I shared it with.

I agree with Braufessor's take on this. They all (Trillium, Treehouse, Hill Farmstead) have off beers and I am not sure if smaller breweries can afford to dump a batch. I got a 4 pack of Scaled that I struggled to drink because it had so much yeast bite. The last can sat around for 2 weeks and ended up being good. That being said, I out of 20+ different beer purchases at Trillium it was just that one 4 pack that was not right, everything else was delicious.

 

[EndOfLine]

Holy crap, this Burlington yeast is crazy. Just kegged a smash IPA with german pils, chinook, and Burlington yeast. I just poured a warm and uncarbed sample and the mouth feel is so rich. The flavor from the yeast is crazy tropical; Mango, pineapples, stone fruit.

Water additions were 3% acid malt and 5g cacl

Only two ounces of chinook at 15 min. And two ounces for dry hopping during primary. That's it.

 

[Jmash]

Honestly, I think that is something I have learned as I have tasted many of the different "hard-to-get" beers..... I have had a lot of good ones for sure and some that were truly great. However, they can also be hit and miss as well. In particular, I have found that to be true as breweries grow and struggle to scale up to much larger production. My experience with Trillium has been like that. I have drain poured a couple of their beers. Many were very good, and some were phenomenal. I will say the 3 Trillium out of this batch I have tried so far have all be really good. Their stout is excellent - did not even realize they made a stout!
.

Was it the Pot and Kettle? At the brewery after sampling 4 or 5 of their IPA's and coming to the conclusion that I'd rather have my own, I bought a four pack of the Pot and Kettle. It is really good.

 

[KeyWestBrewing]

Yeah - I am not quite ready to run out and buy a new wort chiller in the name of experimentation. I will try the things I can to start with and see how far down the rabbit hole I want to go based on the results I am getting.

The oxidative effects you get at various stages are minimized with various strategies. My understanding is that the effects happen fast at mash temps, slower as the wort cools. Plus, I think that is part of the strategy of using the metabisulfite.... it will not all react in the mash and is available throughout the process to scavenge oxygen that is introduced at different stages.

However, once the wort goes to the fermenter it NEEDS oxygen for the yeast. The yeast will then scavenge that oxygen relatively fast and in addition, the negatives of oxygen at this stage are also minimized by cooler temps.. I am no expert on any of this, just trying to follow directions at this point and check it out a bit for myself.

As someone that believes in the science and has brewed a good number of LODO batches at this point, Ive been seeing a difference and I don't use a stainless IC or spund and use the yeast/dextrose method to treat my water. I might not hold the flavor as long but the kegs usually kick first anyways. Ironically enough Ive posted before saying that none of my LODO IPAs seemed any different though. For me its the maltier styles that start to pop in a different way.

 

[Braufessor]

Was it the Pot and Kettle? At the brewery after sampling 4 or 5 of their IPA's and coming to the conclusion that I'd rather have my own, I bought a four pack of the Pot and Kettle. It is really good.

It was Secret Stairs.

Everything I have tried so far in this shipment has been quite good. All in cans.

 

[cegan09]

So I was at a friend's place for new years and out of no where he pulled out a bottle of NE IPA I made back in like April. He had thrown it in his fridge and forgotten about it. I expected it to be really faded and meh, but it was phenomenal. Hop aroma was shockingly good for a beer that old and the taste was damn good. Maybe a little faded from brand new, but overall really good. The recipe followed was about close to the one on the first post.

I haven't made an IPA in a few months, I think I need to do one again and set some aside to do some aging comparisons on.

 

[stickyfinger]

How many beers had you had before opening it? ha ha ha ha!

 

[cegan09]

How many beers had you had before opening it? ha ha ha ha!

One. I was honestly shocked at how well it had held up.

 

[Apos]

One. I was honestly shocked at how well it had held up.

What was your bottling process? Interested how you avoided oxidation.

 

[cegan09]

What was your bottling process? Interested how you avoided oxidation.

I know for a fact that I didn't. Standard bottling. Transfer to bottling bucket, add priming sugar, gentle stir, fill with bottling wand.

 

[Apos]

I know for a fact that I didn't. Standard bottling. Transfer to bottling bucket, add priming sugar, gentle stir, fill with bottling wand.

That's even more interesting - to learn that you didn't do anything fancy to avoid oxidation.

 

[Braufessor]

That's even more interesting - to learn that you didn't do anything fancy to avoid oxidation.

Adding priming sugar and carbonating in bottle can be a benefit for reducing oxygen as the yeast can potentially utilize it.

 

[Apos]

Adding priming sugar and carbonating in bottle can be a benefit for reducing oxygen as the yeast can potentially utilize it.

That's what I thought. However, there seems to be quite a few people who have experienced oxidation after bottling NEIPA beers. I'm assuming they are bottle conditioning rather than using a beer gun or something.

I guess i'll just have to try it for myself and see what happens.

 

[motosapiens]

Adding priming sugar and carbonating in bottle can be a benefit for reducing oxygen as the yeast can potentially utilize it.

that makes sense. i personally have never experienced any off flavors or oxidation in my bottle-conditioned beers, even when they sit for 6-8 months at room temperature. I do notice that stouts get a little less edgy, and hops attenuate slightly, but that's about it. Maybe i just have low standards.

To be fair tho, all my experience is with west coast ipas and bavarian hefeweizen and traditional stout/porter. I just bottled my first NE pale ale yesterday, and I'm very interested to see how it holds up, but I doubt very seriously it will last more than a few weeks because it's so delicious.

 

[motosapiens]

I have looked the best i could, but what exactly is a Northeast IPA? I have searched this thread as well as the rest of the site, and cant find anything actually about what the style is or how it is different than a regular American IPA.

imho, differences from a traditional west coast style are:
1. less bittering hops
2. higher chloride than sulfate
3. at least some portion of fruity citrusy aroma/dry hops, such as ekuanot, el dorado, galaxy etc...
4. london esb yeast or similar (conan, etc..), instead of chico style (although many west coast ipas are made with other yeasts).
5. first round of dry hops added while the yeast are still active, like around 1.020 gravity.

The result is a fruity, fairly sweet-tasting delicious fresh hop concoction that is palatable to people who don't really care for the upfront bitterness of west coast style IPAs. My wife is one of those people.

The taste is pretty dramatically different. OTOH, I only discovered this style a few weeks ago when I visited Weldwerks in greeley CO. No one in idaho seems to have heard of it.

 

[HObrew]

Hey Braufessor and friends!
I am very new to brewing and am still doing extracts and will be for a little bit longer as I have 33lbs of CBW golden light LME to go through

My first brew was an IPA
CBW golden light LME 6.6lbs
2lbs DME
Steeped with some grains which I cant remember for the life of me. Recipe is at home.

Horizon .5oz 1oz amarillo, 1oz Simcoe 60 mins
1oz amarillo 1 oz simcoe 15mins
1oz amarillo 1oz simcoe flameout
1oz amarillo 1oz simcoe 7 days in

Safale us-05 yeast.
I loved this IPA. As far as IPAs go, it was great. a little darker than expected but I think I will boil an entire 5 gallon as opposed to 2.5 gallons and then adding water to mitigate the maillard effect and (correct me if I'm wrong) and maybe use lighter steeping grains.

I REALLY love NEIPAs Tree House and Trillium styled beers. And want to adapt Braufessors NEIPA recipe but with a Higher OG and ABV and utilizing my mosaic,citra, and amarillo.

so I have a few questions:

1. I am an extract brewer and am not yet equipped with a mash tun and have plenty of extracts. I wonder if its ok to substitute the Maris Otter and 2 row with approximately 9 lbs of LME or 6.6lbs LME and 2 lbs DME like my first IPA.

That leaves the other grains
4% Flaked Oats (1/2 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
2% Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

Can I utilize these for steeping? A few of these grains are considered "Mash only" How about if I did a small scale 150 degree F steep/mash in a muslin bag? will the Honey Malt enzymes act on the mash only grains?

2. I don't have access to reverse osmosis water to start with.
If I know the quality of my tap water can I just adjust from there?
How about starting with distilled water?
I'm from Boston and we have some of the best tap water. I believe Sam Adams just uses tap water.
We also get monthly reports on water quality.
See Pdf.
http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/monthly/wqupdate/pdf/cy2016/122016.pdf
Is it advisable to add minerals to this?

3. I have Citra, Mosaic, and Amarillo getting shipped here soon. I also have a half oz of Horizon in the Fridge. Which of these would you use for the Boil for a Bittering affect?

I am green to brewing so please let me know if I'm getting anything wrong or if this recipe isn't right for my resources.
I am determined to get a hazey, orange juice colored, aromatic, Juicy dry hopped IPA like this one!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Braufessor]

1. I am an extract brewer and am not yet equipped with a mash tun and have plenty of extracts. I wonder if its ok to substitute the Maris Otter and 2 row with approximately 9 lbs of LME or 6.6lbs LME and 2 lbs DME like my first IPA.

That leaves the other grains
4% Flaked Oats (1/2 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
2% Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

Can I utilize these for steeping? A few of these grains are considered "Mash only" How about if I did a small scale 150 degree F steep/mash in a muslin bag? will the Honey Malt enzymes act on the mash only grains?

Yes - you can just sub in the extract for the base grain. However, No, you cannot just "mash/steep" the flaked grains...... You would need to do some sort of "mini mash" with some 2 Row and the flaked grains. Flaked grains need to be mashed with something like 2 row. Honey malt is kilned.... so, that is not going to help you.

You could either:
1.) just use the the extract/honey malt and skip flaked grains entirely
2.) Do a mini mash and put a couple pounds of 2 row in and take some off the extract
3.) you could get some wheat malt extract to use in place of flaked grains... probably the best you can do for extract in place of flaked grains.

2. I don't have access to reverse osmosis water to start with.
If I know the quality of my tap water can I just adjust from there?
How about starting with distilled water?
I'm from Boston and we have some of the best tap water. I believe Sam Adams just uses tap water.
We also get monthly reports on water quality.
See Pdf.
http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/monthly/wqupdate/pdf/cy2016/122016.pdf
Is it advisable to add minerals to this?

Minerals in water are really only a consideration if you are doing all grain.... minerals are already concentrated into your malt extract when it was produced. That said, the ideal thing you can use with extract is RO or Distilled water. Or, tap water source that is very low in minerals...... that report is rather overwhelming and from several different water plants, so I really have no clue what your tap water actually is.

I will say this - if you are using tap water, the #1 problem that is definitely in there is chlorine. You do not want chlorine/chloramine in your beer. Needs to be removed with carbon filtering or campden tablets.

The simplest solution would just be to start with distilled water..... although, I don't understand how you would not have access to RO water.... it is available in almost every grocery store, walmart, etc.... and it is cheaper than buying jugs of distilled water if you just fill up jugs of RO at one of those refill stations.

3. I have Citra, Mosaic, and Amarillo getting shipped here soon. I also have a half oz of Horizon in the Fridge. Which of these would you use for the Boil for a Bittering affect?

I am green to brewing so please let me know if I'm getting anything wrong or if this recipe isn't right for my resources.
I am determined to get a hazey, orange juice colored, aromatic, Juicy dry hopped IPA like this one!

Thanks in advance!

Horizon to bitter.

You may have trouble getting exactly the color you want with extract, but you should be able to make a good beer none-the-less.

 

[55x11]

Nice write up... the only caveat I would suggest is that, it would depend on how analytical you are as a person. I know a couple of guys, who when they brew a beer, they have 2-3 small glasses and all they're doing is looking for issues. (DMS/diacetyl etc.) they really evaluate their beers to try and improve on it, and sometimes it creeps into when they go to friends places..... lol

I think brulosophy did that experiment as well - trained BJCP judges vs. regular beer drinkers in identifying off-flavors - and if I remember correctly there was no substantial difference, in fact I think BJCP judges did slightly worse.

I am also very puzzled by many brulosophy Xbeeriments. Especially since it is so often that the brewer can easily identify differences between two beers every single time, but results from the tasting group are not statistically meaningful. This means that either knowing what to look for provides sufficient bias that allows the brewer to identify the flawed beer, OR that there is substantial difference between general population and the specific person, who is more knowledgable about defects and can taste things that many others cannot.

One issue with small testing group sizes is that if lets say 1/3 of people are just blind to DMS, or diacetyl, you name it - the test will fail every single time. If the group size is 50-100 or more, the majority will eventually prevail, but in a group of say 5-10 people, it's most likely that the critical p-value will never be reached.

One way to test it is to do multiple tests - at least on people who "guessed" the right beer the first time (ideally on all people). Yes, there is palate fatigue angle, I am very aware of this, but I would be very interested to see if people who picked the odd-beer the first time out, can do it again 2-4 times in a row. This can give us more complex dimensionality to the tests, such as: in first tasting only 8 out of 20 people picked the odd beer out, failing to reach significant value, but those 8 people could identify the off-flavor every time in repeated 4 tasting, indicating that the people who are sensitive to X (say DMS) can reliably identify the beer that has X in it. So there is a clear effect, but only minority of tasters are very sensitive to the compound.

 

[motosapiens]

We also get monthly reports on water quality.
See Pdf.
http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/monthly/wqupdate/pdf/cy2016/122016.pdf
Is it advisable to add minerals to this?

3. I have Citra, Mosaic, and Amarillo getting shipped here soon. I also have a half oz of Horizon in the Fridge. Which of these would you use for the Boil for a Bittering affect?

what a great water report! wish my little town had those.

it appears that you have pretty low sulfate and chloride levels (like I do), so if you want to get the kind of juicy round flavor that is common in this style, you may want to add some calcium chloride. I added about 9 grams of CaCl, evenly distributed between mash and sparge (1 gram per gallon). if brewing from extract you could probably do 5-6 grams for a 5 gallon batch.

regarding the hops, i have citra, amarillo and ekuanot and couldn't decide which hops to use where, so like Weldwerks does, I used equal parts of each variety for every hop addition. I figured if it's good enough for one of the best beers ever, it's good enough for me. 1/2 oz at first wort (or boil), 2 oz at flameout, 2 oz after 30 mins, wait 30 more mins then cool. Then 2 oz after 2 days of fermentation, and 2 more oz 4 days later. Tasted it as i was bottling it and it was very much like I remembered Juicy Bits at the weldwerks brewery. My wife couldn't believe there was no actual fruit in it.

 

[anteater8]

Has anyone used sacch trois to ferment this beer at a warm(ish) temperature? I'm looking for new beers I can brew while my fermentation chamber is full, and I noticed Imperial Juicy and WLP644 give temperature ranges up to 80 and 85 degrees. Realistically my beer would probably only reach 75.

 

[HObrew]

Yes - you can just sub in the extract for the base grain. However, No, you cannot just "mash/steep" the flaked grains...... You would need to do some sort of "mini mash" with some 2 Row and the flaked grains. Flaked grains need to be mashed with something like 2 row. Honey malt is kilned.... so, that is not going to help you.

You could either:
1.) just use the the extract/honey malt and skip flaked grains entirely
2.) Do a mini mash and put a couple pounds of 2 row in and take some off the extract
3.) you could get some wheat malt extract to use in place of flaked grains... probably the best you can do for extract in place of flaked grains.


Minerals in water are really only a consideration if you are doing all grain.... minerals are already concentrated into your malt extract when it was produced. That said, the ideal thing you can use with extract is RO or Distilled water. Or, tap water source that is very low in minerals...... that report is rather overwhelming and from several different water plants, so I really have no clue what your tap water actually is.

I will say this - if you are using tap water, the #1 problem that is definitely in there is chlorine. You do not want chlorine/chloramine in your beer. Needs to be removed with carbon filtering or campden tablets.

The simplest solution would just be to start with distilled water..... although, I don't understand how you would not have access to RO water.... it is available in almost every grocery store, walmart, etc.... and it is cheaper than buying jugs of distilled water if you just fill up jugs of RO at one of those refill stations.



Horizon to bitter.

You may have trouble getting exactly the color you want with extract, but you should be able to make a good beer none-the-less.

Thanks for the help! I just looked up mini mashing or partial mash and that makes a lot of sense. It says you need a least a few lbs of malted grains worth of enzymes to act on the starches in the adjuncts.

I know exactly where one of those water fill stations are. I had no idea that was RO. The report is definitely overwhelming and I don't understand much of it.

I will consider trying to do a mini mash and filling out the rest of the gravity with my extracts.

Since it's such a small amount of Warrior, I might just buy an oz of that especially just to educate myself on other hops.

what a great water report! wish my little town had those.

it appears that you have pretty low sulfate and chloride levels (like I do), so if you want to get the kind of juicy round flavor that is common in this style, you may want to add some calcium chloride. I added about 9 grams of CaCl, evenly distributed between mash and sparge (1 gram per gallon). if brewing from extract you could probably do 5-6 grams for a 5 gallon batch.

regarding the hops, i have citra, amarillo and ekuanot and couldn't decide which hops to use where, so like Weldwerks does, I used equal parts of each variety for every hop addition. I figured if it's good enough for one of the best beers ever, it's good enough for me. 1/2 oz at first wort (or boil), 2 oz at flameout, 2 oz after 30 mins, wait 30 more mins then cool. Then 2 oz after 2 days of fermentation, and 2 more oz 4 days later. Tasted it as i was bottling it and it was very much like I remembered Juicy Bits at the weldwerks brewery. My wife couldn't believe there was no actual fruit in it.

Thanks for the advice! Good to know the importance of minerals in a NEIPA. Good to know you tried other hops too!


I will be attempting this in a few weeks and will report back. Maybe I'll even document the whole thing for future extract brewers.

 

[jakturner]

I usually keg hop most of my beers including this one many times, I have never experienced grassiness but I used equal parts galaxy in this version and I taste grassy flavors. Its been in the keg 3 weeks, has anyone experienced this with galaxy?

 

[jammin]

I usually keg hop most of my beers including this one many times, I have never experienced grassiness but I used equal parts galaxy in this version and I taste grassy flavors. Its been in the keg 3 weeks, has anyone experienced this with galaxy?

Galaxy is a love/hate type hop IMHO. It's never worked well for me no matter how I use it

 

[EndOfLine]

Yes - you can just sub in the extract for the base grain. However, No, you cannot just "mash/steep" the flaked grains...... You would need to do some sort of "mini mash" with some 2 Row and the flaked grains. Flaked grains need to be mashed with something like 2 row. Honey malt is kilned.... so, that is not going to help you.

You could either:
1.) just use the the extract/honey malt and skip flaked grains entirely
2.) Do a mini mash and put a couple pounds of 2 row in and take some off the extract
3.) you could get some wheat malt extract to use in place of flaked grains... probably the best you can do for extract in place of flaked grains.


Minerals in water are really only a consideration if you are doing all grain.... minerals are already concentrated into your malt extract when it was produced. That said, the ideal thing you can use with extract is RO or Distilled water. Or, tap water source that is very low in minerals...... that report is rather overwhelming and from several different water plants, so I really have no clue what your tap water actually is.

I will say this - if you are using tap water, the #1 problem that is definitely in there is chlorine. You do not want chlorine/chloramine in your beer. Needs to be removed with carbon filtering or campden tablets.

The simplest solution would just be to start with distilled water..... although, I don't understand how you would not have access to RO water.... it is available in almost every grocery store, walmart, etc.... and it is cheaper than buying jugs of distilled water if you just fill up jugs of RO at one of those refill stations.



Horizon to bitter.

You may have trouble getting exactly the color you want with extract, but you should be able to make a good beer none-the-less.

The only issue using tap water with extract is you are gaining all the the mineral ions that extract maker had when they mashed. So if you have alot mineral ions in your tap water you will "double water profile"


HObrew:

I have made an excellent extract "ne" pale ale with 6lbs of extra light DME and one pound of amber DME. no steeping grains at all.

if you live near a lows you can pick up some primo water, which is RO water with some NA added for taste.

I used 6 gallons of Ro with 3 grams of CaCL added.

 

[EndOfLine]

Here is my new NE IPA
with some burlington yeast, first time using it. A bit more estery then im used too.

 

[Korx]

What do you all think of my recipe below for NE Style IPA? Is there anything I should change? I'm just a little bit concerned with the amount of galaxy but I think it should mellow with the equal parts Mosaic. This is for 15 gallons.



Est Original Gravity: 1.061 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.2 %
Bitterness: 45.2 IBUs
Est Color: 5.1 SRM

27 lbs 9.1 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 77.0 %
5 lbs 5.9 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 15.0 %
1 lbs 12.6 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 5.0 %
1 lbs 1.2 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 5 3.0 %
1.00 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 18.5 IBUs
2.25 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 7 1.6 IBUs
2.25 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 8 1.4 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 9 0.9 IBUs
2.25 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 10 9.3 IBUs
2.25 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 11 8.2 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 12 5.3 IBUs
3.0 pkg London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318) [124.21 ml] Yeast 13 -
3.50 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs

 

[Braufessor]

I usually keg hop most of my beers including this one many times, I have never experienced grassiness but I used equal parts galaxy in this version and I taste grassy flavors. Its been in the keg 3 weeks, has anyone experienced this with galaxy?

Yeah - galaxy can get away from you in a hurry. I like it, but it can overwhelm a beer.... can also be dependent on batch of galaxy (as with any hop) too.

I find the same thing with Columbus. I like it, but I have never had a lot of success dry hopping with it in any significant amount.

 

[Braufessor]

What do you all think of my recipe below for NE Style IPA? Is there anything I should change? I'm just a little bit concerned with the amount of galaxy but I think it should mellow with the equal parts Mosaic. This is for 15 gallons.



Est Original Gravity: 1.061 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.2 %
Bitterness: 45.2 IBUs
Est Color: 5.1 SRM

27 lbs 9.1 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 77.0 %
5 lbs 5.9 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 15.0 %
1 lbs 12.6 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 5.0 %
1 lbs 1.2 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 5 3.0 %
1.00 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 18.5 IBUs
2.25 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 7 1.6 IBUs
2.25 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 8 1.4 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 9 0.9 IBUs
2.25 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 10 9.3 IBUs
2.25 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 11 8.2 IBUs
1.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 15.0 min Hop 12 5.3 IBUs
3.0 pkg London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318) [124.21 ml] Yeast 13 -
3.50 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
3.50 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs

Looks tasty to me.

 

[SomeDick]

Tried making a version of the NE IPA yesterday.
Unfortunately I couldn't get ahold of Mosaic or Galaxy hops.
My OG hit 1.074, probably because I'm still new to All Grain, but I got my usual 5.5 gallons, so i guess it's going to be a Imperial IPA, which I don't mind
5.5 gallon batch
Grain Bill:
2-row Pale Malt- 5.5lbs
2-row Marris Otter- 5.5lbs
Flaked Oats- 1lb
Flaked barley- 1/2lb
Honey Malt- 1lb

Hops:
Warrior- .75 at 60mins
Citra/ Amarillo/ cascade- at FO, cooled to 160*f

Going to follow the same dry hop schedule but with Citra and Amarillo.

Used WLP 001 California Ale.

 

[HObrew]

The only issue using tap water with extract is you are gaining all the the mineral ions that extract maker had when they mashed. So if you have alot mineral ions in your tap water you will "double water profile"


HObrew:

I have made an excellent extract "ne" pale ale with 6lbs of extra light DME and one pound of amber DME. no steeping grains at all.

if you live near a lows you can pick up some primo water, which is RO water with some NA added for taste.

I used 6 gallons of Ro with 3 grams of CaCL added.

Thanks for the heads up! I wish I hadn't bought 33 lbs of light liquid extract. i might just use it with porters stouts and darker beers.

I'm heavily leaning towards doing a mini mash and supplementing with LME. Lowes is a bit far for me but There's a filling station nearby and I'll check if it's RO.

Here is my new NE IPA
with some burlington yeast, first time using it. A bit more estery then im used too.

is this the extract recipe that you were mentioning? Looks great !

 

[stickyfinger]

I usually keg hop most of my beers including this one many times, I have never experienced grassiness but I used equal parts galaxy in this version and I taste grassy flavors. Its been in the keg 3 weeks, has anyone experienced this with galaxy?

i could see galaxy being strange as a leg hop. it has a very intense flavor. citra is really the only keghop hop that i've enjoyed.

 

[stickyfinger]

Here is my new NE IPA
with some burlington yeast, first time using it. A bit more estery then im used too.

what ferment temp? temp controlled? i never much ester from Burlington

 

[rwing7486]

I see allot of people adding 60 minute hop additions. Has anyone tried eliminating this addition? Home brewing association has an article with tips from the pros in which they state to use little to no hops during the boil. Only hop addition they recommend is adding a small percentage of FWH.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/tips-brewing-new-england-ipa/

This past Friday I brewed my first attempt with this style. I had some krasuen and beer rise into my airlock during fermentation and I have to say this beer smells fantastic! cant wait to taste it next week. Below is my recipe and process.

35.1% 2-Row Brewers Malt
35.1% Pale Ale Malt
14% White Wheat Malt
5.3% Flaked Oats
5.3% Flaked Barley
3.5% Carapils
1.8% Crystal 20

Mashed @ 152F for 60 minutes

SG 1.064

1.5 Liter starter of WY1318 - London Ale III

Hop Schedule:

First Wort
0.6oz El Dorado

(Boil for 60 minutes)

Hop Stand @ 170F for 30 minutes - Gently stir every 10 minutes
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz El Dorado
1.0oz Galaxy

24 hours after pitching yeast
0.5oz Mosaic
0.5oz El Dorado
0.5oz Calypso

48 hours after pitching yeast
0.5oz Mosaic
0.5oz El Dorado
0.5oz Calypso

72 hours after pitching yeast
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz El Dorado
1.0oz Calypso

120 hours after pitching yeast
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz Calypso

Let beer sit for 7 days in primary after last hop addition
Cold Crash for 24 hours
Keg - target 2.4vols

Water Profile
Ca - 88.7ppm
Mg - 0ppm
Na - 0ppm
SO4 - 57.5ppm
Cl - 114.8ppm

Alkalinity - 0
RA - (-63)

 

[stickyfinger]

I see allot of people adding 60 minute hop additions. Has anyone tried eliminating this addition? Home brewing association has an article with tips from the pros in which they state to use little to no hops during the boil. Only hop addition they recommend is adding a small percentage of FWH.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/tips-brewing-new-england-ipa/

This past Friday I brewed my first attempt with this style. I had some krasuen and beer rise into my airlock during fermentation and I have to say this beer smells fantastic! cant wait to taste it next week. Below is my recipe and process.

SG 1.064
35.1% 2-Row Brewers Malt
35.1% Pale Ale Malt
14% White Wheat Malt
5.3% Flaked Oats
5.3% Flaked Barley
3.5% Carapils
1.8% Crystal 20

Mashed @ 152F for 60 minutes

1.5 Liter starter of WY1318 - London Ale III

Hop Schedule:

First Wort
0.6oz El Dorado

(Boil for 60 minutes)

Hop Stand @ 170F for 30 minutes - Gently stir every 10 minutes
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz El Dorado
1.0oz Galaxy

24 hours after pitching yeast
0.5oz Mosaic
0.5oz El Dorado
0.5oz Calypso

48 hours after pitching yeast
0.5oz Mosaic
0.5oz El Dorado
0.5oz Calypso

72 hours after pitching yeast
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz El Dorado
1.0oz Calypso

120 hours after pitching yeast
1.0oz Mosaic
1.0oz Calypso

Let beer sit for 7 days in primary after last hop addition
Cold Crash for 24 hours
Keg - target 2.4vols

you can omit 60 min for sure, especially if you add any hops for the last few mins of the boil or if u do a hotter hop stand or if you do a massive dry hop

 

[jjw5015]

I've done four batches with same hops. First two had a small 60 minute addition. Last two didnt have any additions until flameout. All 4 tasted very similar to me.

 

[crusader1612]

I've done four batches with same hops. First two had a small 60 minute addition. Last two didnt have any additions until flameout. All 4 tasted very similar to me.

did you test out the differences between FWH and bittering addition?