New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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beervoid

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Question for people brewing with Nelson Sauvin hops. Did you find that all the batches are all quiet hard pellets that drop easy to the bottom?
Wondering if this is typical for NZ hops.
 

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Tried something a bit different this go around for me. I wanted to use cheaper hops on the hot side and cold side and still get a pretty flavorful neipa using cosmic punch from omega. I usually knock out about 6.5 gals into my fermentor

malt

70% pilsen
15% pale spelt
15% white wheat

hops
.5 oz of ctz at 5 mins in boil

Whirlpool with 2.5 oz each of cascade and hull melon.

Day 2 dh 1 oz hull melon 1 oz cascade

Day 10 dh after dumping yeast and soft crashing to 58 degrees f. 7 oz of hull melon.

Ill usually shake my fermentor 2 to 3 times a day and leave the hops on for 3 days total before i cold crash and keg.

Kinda in love with this beer tons of aroma for its 6.1 abv. Strong strawberry vibes with a tiny touch of resin.
 

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ca_baracus

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What fermenter do you use in order to dump the yeast? Is there a benefit to doing this?
 

Dwaynehaze

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What fermenter do you use in order to dump the yeast? Is there a benefit to doing this?
I have a 7 gallon ss brewtech. I believe the dumping yeast part is a Scott Janish thing just to make sure fermentation doesnt kick back up after dh. Gives me peace of mind when shaking my fermentor that the yeast wont be sloshing around as much in the beer.
 
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I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
 

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Wheat malt mills differently. Did you check the grind to make sure that it was crushed enough? Or just changed the gap?
 

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I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
I average 77% mash/lauter efficiency give or take a point or two on my NEIPAs but I have a 10.5gal foundry so our systems are really apples to oranges comparisons. For your system, Im wondering if you are getting channeling in your mash due to either sticky wort or pumping too fast. I understand with 3V HERMS peeps don't stir the grain bed once its set but it may still help once in a while. I use 12oz of rice hulls for a 5gal batch with my NEIPAs in the foundry too which does help.
 

Dgallo

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I have a 7 gallon ss brewtech. I believe the dumping yeast part is a Scott Janish thing just to make sure fermentation doesnt kick back up after dh. Gives me peace of mind when shaking my fermentor that the yeast wont be sloshing around as much in the beer.
This and so when the yeast crash out, they don’t strip some of the hop compounds from the dryhop with them
 

Dgallo

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I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true change in efficiency is occurring
 
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Noob_Brewer

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What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true chan in efficiency is occurring
good point. Ive seen beer smith also have malted oats set by default higher than what it actually is as well.
 

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Anyone using their NEIPA yeast for other styles? I try to reuse my Imperial Juice 3-5 times before buying a new packet, but I'm only brewing NEIPA's with it. I tried an Ordinary Bitter with it and wasn't too crazy about it.
I've been using Barbarian in my normal/west coast IPAs recently. Does that count?

Targeting between 60-70 IBUs in the boil, followed by 3-6 oz in WP at 170 and about the same in DH after soft crash (I've used both both old school WCIPA hops and the newer hops more often found in NEIPAs and combinations of the two). I guess that just makes them bitter hazys. But I'm really digging them.

I saw an article about robust porters that said LA3 works well in the style. Haven't tried that yet.
 

bruboy

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I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
This is an issue that I suffered with for quite a while on my own personal system which is a rims it's an older sabco Brew magic. I was using malt from a local supplier(they were crushing the malt for me) who also supplies many of the small local breweries around me after about nine months of lower numbers and some stucks sparges I asked to have the grain crushed a little bit more course he mentioned he had the same requests from several of the other breweries . I am also using 20% + of spelt I also take my mash paddle and make slices through the grain bed similar to what the rakes would do in a commercial system now I'm able to let my system run nearly wide open as the manufacturer recommends and my efficiencies were in the 80s. I recently made the jump to commercial Brewing and in trusting in the manufacturer's representative for setting our grain Mill I ran into stuck mashes for the first three brewing sessions that we did very frustrating and low efficiencies change I changed Mill settings to a courser crush after reading an article regarding efficiencies with a Coaser crush and now our efficiencies are up in the low 80s and no stuck mashes . We also use rice hulls as well
 

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I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.

Wait so can you step mash? I’d assume so since you’re recirculating.

Everyone’s system is different. Take measurements of the gravity of the mash with a refractometer at different times during the mash. Try stirring and see what happens to gravity. Try milling more course and see what happens. Try rice hulls and see what happens. I’d also suggest step mashing if you have the ability.
 

AngelP092

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Hey guys!
Someone can share a water profile to try in my next brew? Im thinking to use a blend of verdant ipa and s04, about hops use I daho 7, simcoe and Amarillo, 5g/L whirlpool and dry hop 15g/L 50% on the mid fermentation and the other 50% at last of the fermentation.
Thanks!!
 
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What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true change in efficiency is occurring
I have beersmith 2 and I actually brewed this batch with spelt which wasnt listed in beersmith so I left it as white wheat figured it was the closest.
 
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Wait so can you step mash? I’d assume so since you’re recirculating.

Everyone’s system is different. Take measurements of the gravity of the mash with a refractometer at different times during the mash. Try stirring and see what happens to gravity. Try milling more course and see what happens. Try rice hulls and see what happens. I’d also suggest step mashing if you have the ability.
I do have the ability to step mash, haven't done it yet but I certainly can. I'll try that for the neipa I do, good suggestion thank you.
 
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I average 77% mash/lauter efficiency give or take a point or two on my NEIPAs but I have a 10.5gal foundry so our systems are really apples to oranges comparisons. For your system, Im wondering if you are getting channeling in your mash due to either sticky wort or pumping too fast. I understand with 3V HERMS peeps don't stir the grain bed once its set but it may still help once in a while. I use 12oz of rice hulls for a 5gal batch with my NEIPAs in the foundry too which does help.
When you say 12oz is that by weight or volume? I swear rice hulls weigh as much as a balloon filled with helium.
 
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I need to upgrade to BS3 I'm just waiting to buy a new laptop or tablet or something first cause I'm cleap like that.. all great responses, I'll see what the ppg is listed in bs2 and compare to the spelt I used and see where I end up then.
 

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There’s a great podcast with Matt Brynildson about him going to Europe for a year a couple years ago and not getting full conversion in a wheat heavy mash when doing his typical step mash regimen 145/154/168. When he added the traditional Belgian/European step of 160-162 he saw full conversion.

If you can step mash I’d suggest it. We do it for every beer. Helps with haze, foam, mouthfeel, etc.
 

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Pretty big news dropped in my area today, Fiden’s X Electric collab. Anyone have access to electric and willing to trade electrics version when it comes out?
8FFC444D-81DB-45BC-B82E-ABED055AFAE5.jpeg
 

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Has anyone used any of the 2021 crop of hops from Yakima yet? I ordered a bunch and am trying to figure out which to use in my next IPA. I opened the bag of 2021 Mosaic and was...underwhelmed. I got a big garlic/onion aroma from it, which I have never had from any of the Mosaic I've used in the past (and I've used a lot). I also opened the Citra and, while I didn't get any off aromas, I felt like the aroma was muted and dull compared to prior crops.

I also ordered 2021 Nelson, Bru-1, Vic Secret and Amarillo, that I haven't opened yet, so hopefully those are a little better!
 

The M

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I've used Nelson, Rakau and Enigma. Nelson was as usual or at least I didn't notice any difference to 2020 crop. Rakau and Enigma aromas were just superb & fruity and didn't notice anything suspicious with the flavor. Then again I haven't used Enigma or Rakau before so I wouldn't know the difference
 

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Has anyone used any of the 2021 crop of hops from Yakima yet? I ordered a bunch and am trying to figure out which to use in my next IPA. I opened the bag of 2021 Mosaic and was...underwhelmed. I got a big garlic/onion aroma from it, which I have never had from any of the Mosaic I've used in the past (and I've used a lot). I also opened the Citra and, while I didn't get any off aromas, I felt like the aroma was muted and dull compared to prior crops.

I also ordered 2021 Nelson, Bru-1, Vic Secret and Amarillo, that I haven't opened yet, so hopefully those are a little better!
Well this is disappointing to hear. I have 2021 Citra and Idaho 7 coming and plan on doing a Citra with Idaho 7 kicker next week.
 

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Maybe those union aromas can be transformed into something nice, maybe use them early fermentation to blow some of that unwanted stuff off.
Im not sure if those smells are an indication of bad hops.
 

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Maybe those union aromas can be transformed into something nice, maybe use them early fermentation to blow some of that unwanted stuff off.
Im not sure if those smells are an indication of bad hops.
It’s typically caused by the farm picking the hops too late in the season(I actually did this to myself with my own Columbus this year) . This aroma flavor will make its way into the final product unfortunately as that compound needs to get oxidized to stop smelling that way and that’s exactly what we try to avoid.

@kingmatt if I were you, I’d email YVH about it. They have great customer service and will most likely refund you on the mosaic or send a new pack
 

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It’s typically caused by the farm picking the hops too late in the season(I actually did this to myself with my own Columbus this year) . This aroma flavor will make its way into the final product unfortunately as that compound needs to get oxidized to stop smelling that way and that’s exactly what we try to avoid.

@kingmatt if I were you, I’d email YVH about it. They have great customer service and will most likely refund you on the mosaic or send a new pack
Good info. If you end up brewing with them @kingmatt please report back how they translated into the beer.
 

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On 2nd thought, I recall a podcast (cant remember which) where they where talking about hanging on to garlicky uniony hops and they would get better with age.
I guess thats the oxidation @Dgallo is talking about.
 

Dgallo

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On 2nd thought, I recall a podcast (cant remember which) where they where talking about hanging on to garlicky uniony hops and they would get better with age.
I guess thats the oxidation @Dgallo is talking about.
I think I also heard of guys opening the bags, slightly breaking up the pellets a bit, and letting them “air out” a bit until they lost most of that character. Then they used it on the hotside
 

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The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board.

If you get crappy 2021 hops, the weather isn’t to blame. It’s the supplier. YVH is a crap shoot in my opinion. I’ve bought some of the worst hops ever from them yet some bags will be totally fine. Buying the YCH packaged products was in my experience the best way to get consistent true to type hops as a homebrewer. They do a good job blending in the bad lots with the good. You might not get anything mind blowing but you are much less likely to open a bag that smells like onion/garlic or burning plastic. And yes that’s generally caused by hops picked later in their picking window. Some breweries like it actually, believe it or not.
 

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The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board.

If you get crappy 2021 hops, the weather isn’t to blame. It’s the supplier. YVH is a crap shoot in my opinion. I’ve bought some of the worst hops ever from them yet some bags will be totally fine. Buying the YCH packaged products was in my experience the best way to get consistent true to type hops as a homebrewer. They do a good job blending in the bad lots with the good. You might not get anything mind blowing but you are much less likely to open a bag that smells like onion/garlic or burning plastic. And yes that’s generally caused by hops picked later in their picking window. Some breweries like it actually, believe it or not.
Out of curiosity, what supplier do you think are good?
I've heard good things about crosby and michigan hop alliance.
 

couchsending

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Out of curiosity, what supplier do you think are good?
I've heard good things about crosby and michigan hop alliance.

As a homebrewer you can’t buy from Crosby, not sure about Michigan Hop Alliance.

YCH has a Homebrew arm to their business as does Hop Head Farms and Hops Direct. Honestly I never used much from BSG so I can’t really comment.
 

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I've gotten high quality hops from HopHeaven on eBay if anyone is interested in getting different Mosaic. He selects his hops and the ones that I've gotten are always solid. The selection isn't as great as YVH in terms of NZ hops, but he has most American varieties.

Edit: agreed with @couchsending on the weather. I've gotten crappy YVH Mosaic and Simcoe in past as well. Just all dank and grassy with no flavor. I believe that was 2019 tho.
 
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HopsAreGood

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The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board.

If you get crappy 2021 hops, the weather isn’t to blame. It’s the supplier. YVH is a crap shoot in my opinion. I’ve bought some of the worst hops ever from them yet some bags will be totally fine. Buying the YCH packaged products was in my experience the best way to get consistent true to type hops as a homebrewer. They do a good job blending in the bad lots with the good. You might not get anything mind blowing but you are much less likely to open a bag that smells like onion/garlic or burning plastic. And yes that’s generally caused by hops picked later in their picking window. Some breweries like it actually, believe it or not.
I just recently made an all Citra beer and the 2021 YVH pellets smelled awful in the bag. It’s hard to say exactly how they translated into the beer, because I also used lupomax, cryo, and hop hash also from YVH. The Lupomax and hop hash smelled awesome. The lupo was 2020 but the hop hash 2021. The cryo-obviously is from YCH.

Overall the beer is awesome but the 2021 pellets definitely smelled pretty bad in the bag. Most of their usage was on the hot side with only a small amount of them in the dry hop.

if anyone is curious the beer was as follows:

67% 2-row
30% spelt
3% c-10

10.68-10.14
2 packs of Verdant yeast
70 for 4 days
71 for 3 days
72 for 3 days

Drop to 59 for 24 hours
Dry hop at 59 for 24 hours
Transfer, carb, serve

Hop Schedule:

15: 1 oz citra pellet
10: 1 oz citra pellet

170 WP: 2 oz citra pellet, 1 oz citra cryo, 1 oz citra hop hash

Dry Hop: 2 oz pellet, 2 oz lupomax, 1 oz cryo, 3 oz hop hash.

The lighting is weird but you get the idea:

BF6654EE-ADCC-48F6-B511-EC9166D9722F.jpeg
 
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TBA

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@HopsAreGood thanks for sharing, nice looking beer! You don’t cold crash (~34 degrees) before transferring? What kind of fermenter do you use?
 

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Yakima Chief are opening up their hops to homebrewers in Europe soon which I'm delighted about. Not sure if they're opening a European distribution center or just sold through homebrew stores. They do seem to be opening up a facility in Belgium so hopefully can buy from there. The import duties on Yakima Valley orders are a killer. Their hops are streets ahead of anything I can get here in my LHS.
 

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@HopsAreGood thanks for sharing, nice looking beer! You don’t cold crash (~34 degrees) before transferring? What kind of fermenter do you use?
Sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t. I just depends if I’m feeling lazy. When I don’t cold crash, I transfer the beer into the keg at the same temperature it was dry hopped at. In this case it was 59. I then immediately stick the keg into my Keezer which is set to 42. I put 30 psi on the keg for 24 hours as it cools from 59 down to 42. I then remove the pressure for another 24 hours, and let the headspace come down to serving pressure which is about 12. I use a floating dip tube to pull the beer from the top of the keg, so everything that crashes down to the bottom settles nicely. This works pretty well and I’ve done it several times.

I use a modified fermonster which is plastic. I have done a traditional cold crash with it many times, but I don’t notice a huge difference just crashing in the keg and using the floating dip tube.
 
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