Frieds
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May be yeast dependent - you often get lime from biotransformation, what yeast are you using?
I always use LA3
May be yeast dependent - you often get lime from biotransformation, what yeast are you using?
I have a 7 gallon ss brewtech. I believe the dumping yeast part is a Scott Janish thing just to make sure fermentation doesnt kick back up after dh. Gives me peace of mind when shaking my fermentor that the yeast wont be sloshing around as much in the beer.What fermenter do you use in order to dump the yeast? Is there a benefit to doing this?
I average 77% mash/lauter efficiency give or take a point or two on my NEIPAs but I have a 10.5gal foundry so our systems are really apples to oranges comparisons. For your system, Im wondering if you are getting channeling in your mash due to either sticky wort or pumping too fast. I understand with 3V HERMS peeps don't stir the grain bed once its set but it may still help once in a while. I use 12oz of rice hulls for a 5gal batch with my NEIPAs in the foundry too which does help.I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
This and so when the yeast crash out, they don’t strip some of the hop compounds from the dryhop with themI have a 7 gallon ss brewtech. I believe the dumping yeast part is a Scott Janish thing just to make sure fermentation doesnt kick back up after dh. Gives me peace of mind when shaking my fermentor that the yeast wont be sloshing around as much in the beer.
What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true change in efficiency is occurringI have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
good point. Ive seen beer smith also have malted oats set by default higher than what it actually is as well.What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true chan in efficiency is occurring
I've been using Barbarian in my normal/west coast IPAs recently. Does that count?Anyone using their NEIPA yeast for other styles? I try to reuse my Imperial Juice 3-5 times before buying a new packet, but I'm only brewing NEIPA's with it. I tried an Ordinary Bitter with it and wasn't too crazy about it.
This is an issue that I suffered with for quite a while on my own personal system which is a rims it's an older sabco Brew magic. I was using malt from a local supplier(they were crushing the malt for me) who also supplies many of the small local breweries around me after about nine months of lower numbers and some stucks sparges I asked to have the grain crushed a little bit more course he mentioned he had the same requests from several of the other breweries . I am also using 20% + of spelt I also take my mash paddle and make slices through the grain bed similar to what the rakes would do in a commercial system now I'm able to let my system run nearly wide open as the manufacturer recommends and my efficiencies were in the 80s. I recently made the jump to commercial Brewing and in trusting in the manufacturer's representative for setting our grain Mill I ran into stuck mashes for the first three brewing sessions that we did very frustrating and low efficiencies change I changed Mill settings to a courser crush after reading an article regarding efficiencies with a Coaser crush and now our efficiencies are up in the low 80s and no stuck mashes . We also use rice hulls as wellI have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
I have a question of efficiency in this style. To start I brew with a spike eherms system, 15 gallon batches, all my other brews I get 80% efficiency and with this style I'm lucky to hit 70% I assume this has to do with the amount of wheat I use. I mill my own grain and set the gap accordingly for each type of grain and I use rice hulls, maybe not enough rice hulls?? Last recipe was 23% wheat. I'll take any suggestions to help efficiency, I use beersmith and all my other numbers come out good as far as volume and mash temps. Should I mash lower, I aim for 150, Last one was at 153 for a little because my grain temp was warmer and I didn't adjust in beersmith. How much rice hulls are people using? I dont stir the mash after the initial mash in because I recirculate and use the SSbrewtech recirculate manifold, should I stir it more and if so when? I just brewed one last weekend and I'm gonna end up at 6.5 abv instead of 7.2abv depending upon attenuation. Not bad but not was I was looking for. So I'm looking to get some input of what people do here or if 70% is just what to expect from this style. Thanks all, sorry kinda rambly post.
I have beersmith 2 and I actually brewed this batch with spelt which wasnt listed in beersmith so I left it as white wheat figured it was the closest.What ppg does your program have set for the type and brand of wheat you used. Sometimes it is set higher than it should be this is the actually why you “see” a drop in efficiency numbers, even though no true change in efficiency is occurring
I do have the ability to step mash, haven't done it yet but I certainly can. I'll try that for the neipa I do, good suggestion thank you.Wait so can you step mash? I’d assume so since you’re recirculating.
Everyone’s system is different. Take measurements of the gravity of the mash with a refractometer at different times during the mash. Try stirring and see what happens to gravity. Try milling more course and see what happens. Try rice hulls and see what happens. I’d also suggest step mashing if you have the ability.
When you say 12oz is that by weight or volume? I swear rice hulls weigh as much as a balloon filled with helium.I average 77% mash/lauter efficiency give or take a point or two on my NEIPAs but I have a 10.5gal foundry so our systems are really apples to oranges comparisons. For your system, Im wondering if you are getting channeling in your mash due to either sticky wort or pumping too fast. I understand with 3V HERMS peeps don't stir the grain bed once its set but it may still help once in a while. I use 12oz of rice hulls for a 5gal batch with my NEIPAs in the foundry too which does help.
I do this by weight and yes 12oz by weight does take up a good bit of volumeWhen you say 12oz is that by weight or volume? I swear rice hulls weigh as much as a balloon filled with helium.
Well this is disappointing to hear. I have 2021 Citra and Idaho 7 coming and plan on doing a Citra with Idaho 7 kicker next week.Has anyone used any of the 2021 crop of hops from Yakima yet? I ordered a bunch and am trying to figure out which to use in my next IPA. I opened the bag of 2021 Mosaic and was...underwhelmed. I got a big garlic/onion aroma from it, which I have never had from any of the Mosaic I've used in the past (and I've used a lot). I also opened the Citra and, while I didn't get any off aromas, I felt like the aroma was muted and dull compared to prior crops.
I also ordered 2021 Nelson, Bru-1, Vic Secret and Amarillo, that I haven't opened yet, so hopefully those are a little better!
It’s typically caused by the farm picking the hops too late in the season(I actually did this to myself with my own Columbus this year) . This aroma flavor will make its way into the final product unfortunately as that compound needs to get oxidized to stop smelling that way and that’s exactly what we try to avoid.Maybe those union aromas can be transformed into something nice, maybe use them early fermentation to blow some of that unwanted stuff off.
Im not sure if those smells are an indication of bad hops.
Good info. If you end up brewing with them @kingmatt please report back how they translated into the beer.It’s typically caused by the farm picking the hops too late in the season(I actually did this to myself with my own Columbus this year) . This aroma flavor will make its way into the final product unfortunately as that compound needs to get oxidized to stop smelling that way and that’s exactly what we try to avoid.
@kingmatt if I were you, I’d email YVH about it. They have great customer service and will most likely refund you on the mosaic or send a new pack
I think I also heard of guys opening the bags, slightly breaking up the pellets a bit, and letting them “air out” a bit until they lost most of that character. Then they used it on the hotsideOn 2nd thought, I recall a podcast (cant remember which) where they where talking about hanging on to garlicky uniony hops and they would get better with age.
I guess thats the oxidation @Dgallo is talking about.
Out of curiosity, what supplier do you think are good?The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board.
If you get crappy 2021 hops, the weather isn’t to blame. It’s the supplier. YVH is a crap shoot in my opinion. I’ve bought some of the worst hops ever from them yet some bags will be totally fine. Buying the YCH packaged products was in my experience the best way to get consistent true to type hops as a homebrewer. They do a good job blending in the bad lots with the good. You might not get anything mind blowing but you are much less likely to open a bag that smells like onion/garlic or burning plastic. And yes that’s generally caused by hops picked later in their picking window. Some breweries like it actually, believe it or not.
Out of curiosity, what supplier do you think are good?
I've heard good things about crosby and michigan hop alliance.
I just recently made an all Citra beer and the 2021 YVH pellets smelled awful in the bag. It’s hard to say exactly how they translated into the beer, because I also used lupomax, cryo, and hop hash also from YVH. The Lupomax and hop hash smelled awesome. The lupo was 2020 but the hop hash 2021. The cryo-obviously is from YCH.The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board.
If you get crappy 2021 hops, the weather isn’t to blame. It’s the supplier. YVH is a crap shoot in my opinion. I’ve bought some of the worst hops ever from them yet some bags will be totally fine. Buying the YCH packaged products was in my experience the best way to get consistent true to type hops as a homebrewer. They do a good job blending in the bad lots with the good. You might not get anything mind blowing but you are much less likely to open a bag that smells like onion/garlic or burning plastic. And yes that’s generally caused by hops picked later in their picking window. Some breweries like it actually, believe it or not.
Sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t. I just depends if I’m feeling lazy. When I don’t cold crash, I transfer the beer into the keg at the same temperature it was dry hopped at. In this case it was 59. I then immediately stick the keg into my Keezer which is set to 42. I put 30 psi on the keg for 24 hours as it cools from 59 down to 42. I then remove the pressure for another 24 hours, and let the headspace come down to serving pressure which is about 12. I use a floating dip tube to pull the beer from the top of the keg, so everything that crashes down to the bottom settles nicely. This works pretty well and I’ve done it several times.@HopsAreGood thanks for sharing, nice looking beer! You don’t cold crash (~34 degrees) before transferring? What kind of fermenter do you use?
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