New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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I find a 1:1:1 ratio in all additions gives a nice grapefruit flavor.
stickyfinger
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I am drinking a citra,mosaic,galaxy brew right now. The galaxy is definitely a strong hop. It gives a strong dank, resinous, grapefruit, pith, fruit character to the beer. It is delicious, but be very careful with it. It can dominate a beer very easily. I'd recommend trying it in the hopstand and the first dry hop and then leave it out of the second dry hop, as Brau recommends. Then, you can add more and more if you really like it. It is a weird hop. It kind of reminds me of a blend between Columbus, Nelson and some American IPA hops maybe, maybe some Citra. It's strong and complex.
Here's a look at mine. It has softened enough to be drinkable. Can't say I can't drink enough of it yet, but it's coming around. Will profile it after more time settling. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473648396.417930.jpg
How long does this style beer normally take to "come around?" Reason I ask is I just bottled an extract version of this earlier today, (likely my last extract brew since I'm moving to BIAB). Just wondering what to expect down the line. Now I realize it's apples to oranges comparing all-grain to extract. But I'd guess there's somewhat of a fine line between letting it age vs drinking it before the hop flavor begins to fade.
stickyfinger
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not much of a line, to my tastes. it tastes best early on and keeps losing hoppiness every week. it can taste pretty good for a month though in the keg at least
armenianbrewer
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So my version that I've been discussing with Falconers Flight has come out as like blended pine needle and wet cut grass juice... awful.
Ugh... what will happen as it sits in the bottle for some time to condition/age/mellow/roundout?
Thanks...
Ugh... what will happen as it sits in the bottle for some time to condition/age/mellow/roundout?
Thanks...
sheikyerbouti
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First, this recipe rocks...I just made it again.
I'm wondering what the difference is between hopping in the keg and transferring it to another is compared to just a secondary dry hop in the fermenter? BTW- I dry hop in the keg but do not transfer.
I'm wondering what the difference is between hopping in the keg and transferring it to another is compared to just a secondary dry hop in the fermenter? BTW- I dry hop in the keg but do not transfer.
OP
OP
That is a bummer.... hopefully it will turn around a bit for you over time. I would have though FF would have done ok in this. Could also have been particular bag of FF ....or other aspects of process too I suppose. But... the "grass" description seems to point to the hops.
armenianbrewer
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Quick summary on my process:
Mash in Bag, 3 gallon fermenter volume, OG: 1.065, FG 1.011
7 lb, Maris Otter Pale, 87.5%
5 oz, Flaked Oats , 3.9%
5 oz, Flaked Barley, 3.9%
3 oz, American - White Wheat, 2.3%
3 oz, Canadian - Honey Malt, 2.3%
0.6 oz, Sorachi Ace, 11.1, First Wort, (IBU: 25.29)
0.177 oz, Sorachi Ace, 11.1, 60 min, (IBU: 12.32)
0.5 oz, Falconer's Flight, 10.8, 5 min, (IBU: 6.75)
0.5 oz, Falconer's Flight, 10.8, 0 min,
1 oz, Falconer's Flight, 11.4, Whirlpool at 170 °F, 15 min, (~IBU: 14.06)
1 oz, Falconer's Flight, 11.4, Whirlpool at 140 °F, 15 min, (~IBU: 8.54)
1 oz Falconer's Flight, 11.4, Dry Hop, 9 days
1 oz Falconer's Flight, 11.4, Dry Hop, 7 days
1 oz Falconer's Flight, 11.4, Dry Hop, 2 days
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318 starter, Shake for oxygen, 13 day in Primary fermenter before bottling to 2.5 vols...
Bottled volume came to just over 2 gallons
So my OG was a little higher than yours but same FG. I'm still dialing in my efficiency with my current method/process.
I'll post a picture later if I get a chance later this evening
But maybe it'll mellow out as it's still young in the bottle.. The bottle I tried over the weekend was 8 days in the bottle and it was about 3/4 full bottle so it's not fully carb'ed up just yet... I was anxious to try it
I don't know anything about FF, but I suspect this will improve with another week or two in the bottle. I've never had any bottle-primed beer taste good after 8 days. I almost dumped 45 bottles of Centennial Blonde once that tasted terrible after 2 weeks in the bottle, and 2 weeks after that it was delicious.
Overall, though, I think the nature of this style of beer lends itself much better to force carbing than bottle conditioning. This past weekend I had the last growler of a batch I made in June. It was amazing at its peak (btw about 3-5 weeks after brewing), but wasn't very good at all now. Just tasted like a boring random IPA off the shelf.
Why would you only fill the bottle 3/4 full? Was this the final bottle and you didn't have enough beer to fill it? If so, then that may be contributing to the problem. First, bottom of the bottling bucket can sometimes have some extra settled out hops and trub. Also, 1/4 empty bottle means there was likely oxygen in there when you capped, so maybe oxygenated beer. I'd chill and taste a full bottle before I jumped to any conclusions on the quality of the entire batch.
EndOfLine
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It's possible that the "wet cut grass" flavor is from oxidation. With low fills there will be more disolved 02. Do you co2 "scrub" your beer bottles prior to bottling?
How do you CO2 scrub when bottling.
armenianbrewer
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It was the last bottle and figured instead of dumping it, I could at least still bottle it up and try it early to see how it taste but you're right that it was probably a little early and maybe a little oxygen
Going to throw a bottle into the fridge this Friday and go for another taste on Sunday to see how it's turned out and will most certainly come back with updates
EndOfLine
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When I do bottle,
I have an extra co2 line that I can fit into the neck of a bottle and let it rip. Then I'll take the line out slowly with it on, so the air doesn't "reverse displace" as I yank out the line. Meaning 02 won't rush in to fill the void that the line filled. Then I'll fill the bottle with beer and cap.
grassfeeder
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same process.....Ive had beer stay carbed for weeks doing this.
I may try this as I've had a terrible time with oxidation killing my really hoppy beers of late. Some are good for a month and others start to turn after like two weeks.
mintyice
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Has anyone brewed this with Wyeast 1469?
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For any of the "regulars" on the thread, the original post now includes a link to my updates in post 1418...... Tried to update some of the common questions and tried to clarify some areas that may have been confusing. If people are asking about some of those things, steer them to that post. Or, if you think I missed anything - let me know while I can still update post #1418 and I can include answers to any other common questions.
OP
OP
I have only used it in british bitters, milds, porters.... but it is a great yeast for those. I know a person or two has asked about it in this beer, but not sure if anyone has tried it or not.
I think it would be an interesting possibility. I know it can throw some weird flavors if it starts getting 72+ degrees (in my experience). I liked to keep it 66-70 range.
crusader1612
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I had originally planned to do it. But chickened out.
It is a fantastic yeast on traditional styles, so I don't see why it wouldn't work.
I did try it with Riwaka/fuggles in a mor traditional bitter. but dryhopped, and it s was pretty damn tasty.
give it a crack
brewski09
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Oh no! I've only had good experiences with falconers flight. If it's that bad it probably won't get to a place you really like it. I'd find someone else that likes it and give it away to them or dump it if you're right on space (keeping a few bottles to age and learn what the progression tastes like). If you're not tight on space then keep it around for a while.
brewski09
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your zero minute calculation will add IBU, it's exposed longer than the whirlpool hops and those do.
Did you pull the old dryhops or rack off of them at any point?
I used to do small batches like this and that last bottle can get quite trubie and that might be what you got. Try another bottle and pay attention to the sediment in the bottom of the bottle before you open it.
armenianbrewer
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Yes you're correct that the zero minute will also add IBUs and my guess is somwhere near the same as the 5 min addition or the first whirlpool but I copied all those values/numbers straight from what brewer's friend is estimating and I do admit that I feel like they can better work some of those numbers for people who have those additions during the kettle boil still in the pot stewing/steeping in the wort throughout the cool down and whirlpool process.
Next time I think what I should do is bag each of those additions and then take them out but I throw them in loose..
So maybe next time I will bag all the boil kettle additions and as soon as I begin chilling or get down to the first whirlpool addition, I will pull them out and then steep the whirlpool without having the other hop additions linger in the wort adding additional unwanted bitterness and excessive contact with the final wort before transfer to the fermenter
And as far as space... I have bottle space/capacity for now... and we'll see how it changes in the bottle over some time and I'll hand out a few to friends to assess as well. I have some other batches that will eventually need bottling too so might just reserve 2 when it comes down to crunch time to see how it ages
mintyice
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Semi unrelated, but that blonde ale I did a few weeks ago is in the keg and tasting great! Dry hopped it with a few ounces of Mosaic. It hast the nicest, densest head of any beer I've brewed recently as well. Nice recipe, Braufessor.
crusader1612
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Fancy sharing the recipe?
I could do with a nice Blonde ale for the upcoming summer (Southern Hemisphere)
mintyice
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Sure! Here's how I brewed it:
6 gal 1.044 OG
90% CMC Pale (9lbs)
2.5% each Flaked barley, malted spelt, Simpsons crystal light, Honey malt (4oz each)
152F 60 min mash
water profile: 110ppm Calcium, 100 ppm Sulfate, 100ppm Chloride (est. mash pH 5.3)
1318
FG ended up at 1.005 somehow, but it doesn't taste thin at all.
0.75oz Centennial @ 30min
1.0oz Azacca @ 5min
~2oz Mosaic 48hr keg hop
stickyfinger
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I actually think this dry-hop-only beer I made loosely based on this recipe is getting better in the keg:
http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html
I used citra, mosaic and galaxy like Brau suggests, but my malt bill was the same and the ppm of sulfate and chloride. I used only dry hops though, no flavor/aroma kettle hops. It is really great, very hazy and super hoppy. Delicious! I don't know if I love the Denny's 1450 yeast yet. I'd love to see a comparison between it and a Conan or 1318. I feel like the two beers I've made with 1450 have a slight solventy character. Maybe it is my imagination though. Still, it is a delicious beer. Try a dry-hop-only beer sometime!
http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html
I used citra, mosaic and galaxy like Brau suggests, but my malt bill was the same and the ppm of sulfate and chloride. I used only dry hops though, no flavor/aroma kettle hops. It is really great, very hazy and super hoppy. Delicious! I don't know if I love the Denny's 1450 yeast yet. I'd love to see a comparison between it and a Conan or 1318. I feel like the two beers I've made with 1450 have a slight solventy character. Maybe it is my imagination though. Still, it is a delicious beer. Try a dry-hop-only beer sometime!
brewski09
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I was just thinking you could have easily overshot your IBU but quite a lot because it said 0 for the flameout addition but 15 for the whirlpool addition.
I've never used a hop spider but I think that's exactly what you are talking about. BeerSmith allows for some whirlpool utilization calibration numbers and one of his old blogs talks about tweaking the addition times to account for whirlpool utilization before he added it.
The more I read your previous post though the more I think it's the tail end of the bottling bucket having hop particulate in it and you'll be fine when you pop another bottle.
OP
OP
@olotti Sent me a couple beers with 1450. We were both sort of wavering on the yeast too. There was nothing "wrong" with it.... just did not seem to bring quite as much to the table as either of us maybe anticipated. I have used it in some ambers and really liked it. But, for whatever reason, it just did not seem to translate in this type of beer quite like I thought it might. No "solvent" flavors..... just a little less impact than I think either of us thought the yeast might have.
"solventy" generally makes me think fermentation temps pushing higher than they should. Not sure if that is a possibility - but that is often the culprit.
I have brewed versions of that same beer.... it is a good one. I have a simcoe/amarillo/centennial pale ale that is kind of based off of that a bit - keg is probably not going to see the end of the weekend as it is getting low.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I think my fermentation was good. I have good control and no problems with other strains. It's maybe not solvent, something though. I like WLP Conan best so far in the style. Haven't used 1318 in this style yet. The mouthfeel is good on the 1450 though. People should try it for themselves. Like I said, I'd love to see a side by side.
I also think I like this less malty version of the style. Your version is a great beer. It's just my slight preference for very clean IPAs. Clean meaning less malt character. I need to do a traditional hop on this style as you say, simcoe, amarillo, cent. I also really want to do a citra/mosaic version. a lot of people don't dig the dankness of the Galaxy
I also think I like this less malty version of the style. Your version is a great beer. It's just my slight preference for very clean IPAs. Clean meaning less malt character. I need to do a traditional hop on this style as you say, simcoe, amarillo, cent. I also really want to do a citra/mosaic version. a lot of people don't dig the dankness of the Galaxy
OP
OP
Citra/Mosaic is killer. It is right there in my top 3 combos. I have also done some where I do the 1.5:1:.5 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy in the kettle..... and then I just go 1.5:1.5 Citra/Mosaic in both dry hops.... that works great and takes a bit off the galaxy.
I just kegged a blonde ale that I use 1056 in..... brewing up a couple versions of this with 1056 now to see what I think. Right now, Conan and 1272 are my two preferences. Curious to see how a traditionally "clean" yeast like 1056 does in this beer. I will probably do the basic recipe with it. Then I might do a single hop mosaic and either a citra/galaxy or a single hop galaxy with it.
EndOfLine
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Flying dog brewery made a one off beer with charlie P. Called "airwaves" for the last home brew con. It was a marris otter based IPA with about a 6% abv range I believe. They added so many dry hops (citra, Galaxy, mosaic) that they will never brew it again.
I bring this up because they used lager yeast! It was so neutral, that one only got the the amazing malt/hop combo. It was probably the best beer I had at the con.
Long story short, most of my Recent NE ipas have been made with lager yeast, and I love it.
I cross compared the same beer with 34/70 and us05, and the lager was much better imo
I bring this up because they used lager yeast! It was so neutral, that one only got the the amazing malt/hop combo. It was probably the best beer I had at the con.
Long story short, most of my Recent NE ipas have been made with lager yeast, and I love it.
I cross compared the same beer with 34/70 and us05, and the lager was much better imo
grassfeeder
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Can someone help me out with the water chemistry aspect of things here? Here is my current water profile:
Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1
I have typically always added a teaspoon of CaCl and 2 of gypsum to my mash to get to a nice 5.2-3 PH. How should I alter to get that softer feel these have?
Im a complete chemistry gidget.
Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1
I have typically always added a teaspoon of CaCl and 2 of gypsum to my mash to get to a nice 5.2-3 PH. How should I alter to get that softer feel these have?
Im a complete chemistry gidget.
mintyice
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OP
OP
You are basically dealing with RO water.... there is nothing in it to start.
A level tsp of CaCl in 5 gallons of water adds "about" 150ppm of Chloride
A level tsp of Gypsum in 5 gallons of water adds "about 150ppm of Sulfate
So, you could do something like 1 tsp of CaCl and 1/2 tsp of Gypsum per 5 gallons.
Or 1 tsp of each per 5 gallons.
If you added 1ml of lactic acid per 5 gallons, that would bring you in around that 5.3 range.
****The additions should go in both mash and sparge water.
Made this beer again on Sunday with a couple of small glitches.
I was in a hurry and mash efficiency suffered most likely because I didn't stir well and also because I mashed at 149 instead of 152. No biggie.
Added some DME @ FO and brought my OG up to 1.053 as expected.
Pitched my yeast starter at high krausen and it was off and running about 12 hours later.
Fast forward to the 18 hour mark when I was cleaning up the flask and Mason jar from yeast and noticed the lid said WY 1272.....
Looked in the fridge and found the Mason jar of 1318 that I had intended to use.
Good news though!!!
It will still be beer AND I get to make it again this weekend with the correct yeast.
That is WIN-WIN in my world.
I was in a hurry and mash efficiency suffered most likely because I didn't stir well and also because I mashed at 149 instead of 152. No biggie.
Added some DME @ FO and brought my OG up to 1.053 as expected.
Pitched my yeast starter at high krausen and it was off and running about 12 hours later.
Fast forward to the 18 hour mark when I was cleaning up the flask and Mason jar from yeast and noticed the lid said WY 1272.....
Looked in the fridge and found the Mason jar of 1318 that I had intended to use.
Good news though!!!
It will still be beer AND I get to make it again this weekend with the correct yeast.
That is WIN-WIN in my world.
OP
OP
Plus, now you get to do a head to head comparison with the two different yeasts and see what each brings to the beer.
