New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Great insight, thanks so much. As for my previous attempts, the last batch I tried was strange. Did 85/15 2-Row and Flaked Wheat, bittered a tad with Magnum and blasted it with Kohatu at the end and dry-hop. The hops just....vanished. I ended up with what tasted like a decent American wheat. It was bizarre.

The batch prior to that was decent (2-Row/Oats, Magnum bittered, big Citra), but I used unfiltered tap water as a test. What misery that was. I ended up with a good beer in the background of a chlorinated mess.

Those were my first two kegged batches. Prior to that, my attempt ended up with some strange oxidation/infection post-bottling. The beer darkened significantly and developed an almost band-aid/Bretty type of note with no hop, grain or yeast flavor. Just off putting.

Columbus and Galaxy are definitely whoppers. I guess my inspiration was the keg of HF Double Galaxy that popped up in my local watering hole recently. I had it a few years ago in Vermont and forgot how much I love it, so I'm going for a similar flavor profile with a little "dankness" added from the Columbus/CTZ.

I love my IPAs with my tap water, though I am diligent to use campden to strip the chloramines and lactic for the pH.
 
I don't think I posted my recipe before and I'm not sure how many people are using extract, but I'll go ahead and post it in case anyone is interested. Tasted it again last night and I am loving this beer. Went up against some Trillium last night, I think my beer had more aroma but the Trillium was drier and more refined.

7 lbs Pilsen LME
2.5 lbs Marris Otter
0.75 lbs Malted White Wheat
0.5 lbs Flaked Oats
0.5 lbs Flaked Barley
0.25 lbs Honey Malt

Water:
Used 6 gallons Distilled water (~1 gallon tap water), added the following:
3/4 tsp Calcium Chloride
3/8 tsp Gypsum
0.4 grams Epsom Salt

Hopping schedule/amounts were the same as recommended, but I ended up dry-hopping on day 6 and day 12, and bottling on day 14.
 
As opposed to a bigger starter.... I would recommend an actively fermenting starter. .....*You do want to make sure you have a reasonably sized starter to go with.... but as long as you are in the ballpark, having an active starter is going to get you better results than an inactive starter.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=22055.30

Thanks, I'll consider this for future batches. I now believe I know why I finished high though. I think my BIAB method for the grains didn't allow for adequate conversion. I'm going to get some iodine for the next time I brew this way.
 
Just tasted my attempt at a version of this recipe/NE IPA. It is flat now, as I am racking it tonight, but it has a really nice dankness to it. It must be the Galaxy coming through. Amazing how different it is from just a single-hop Citra or Mosaic.

I had to modify the malt bill the day of as I realized I didn't have enough Maris Otter (dumb move I know - maybe should have dumped the Munich, but that was what I did at the time. I think it is ok, not too malty):
Malt: %:
American 2-row 2L 61.7
Maris Otter 3.5L 18.5
Flaked Oats 1L 15.1
Honey Malt 25L 2.0
Munich 10L 2.9

I went with 1:1:1 citra:mosaic:galaxy for an hour hopstand and then 1.75:3.0:1.25 citra:mosaic:galaxy for a dry hop just in the primary (no rack to second keg.)

It was a ***** to rack from my primary (after 3 day cold crash) to the keg using an autosiphon (with hop sack around it) into a purged keg through the out post. It took forever! I think I might just take out the poppet next time, as I am sure that slowed me down a lot. It seemed to flow fine if I just took the racking tubing off of the QD. I bought a SS keg filter device from Arbor Fabricating, so I should probably use that at some point too. I was thinking of just throwing it into my keg that I rack into with some hops in it and use it as a keg hop strainer.

Tastes pretty good as it is warming up, even if it is flat! (I had about 3 liters of leftovers after my keg was filled) Looks just like a Maibock I used drink at the ABC in Ann Arbor when I lived there in terms of color.

edit: shoot, forgot to say that I LOVE Conan yeast. Do as Braufessor says and do a low alcohol, simple beer for the first round, and then repitch it into another beer. It attenuates very well and leaves the beer very soft, smooth and perfect for this style of beer!!!!! can't say i get much peach or apricot from it though (compared with WY1318.)
 
As opposed to a bigger starter.... I would recommend an actively fermenting starter. I have found much better success going with a 1L starter that is 12-18 hours old. Pitching the entire starter..... no fermenting it out, no cold crash. When yeast ferments out a starter or you cold crash... you are kind of putting the yeast into a dormant state. When you then pitch it, the yeast is not really ready to go into doing the job. Actively fermenting yeast is doubling at a rate of every 90 minutes..... it takes very little time for a smaller, active starter to catch up and overtake a larger, inactive starter. When I started following a lot of the recommendations of "S. cerevisiae" on the AHA forum, I found it to work very well. Here is a big thread with a lot of yeast info in it - but, his first post on page 3 really summarizes some of the key elements.
*You do want to make sure you have a reasonably sized starter to go with.... but as long as you are in the ballpark, having an active starter is going to get you better results than an inactive starter.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=22055.30

Braufessor, this is what I was planning when brewing this as my next beer. On a somewhat related note regarding water. I was planning using 100% RO... any disadvantage with that or should I just stick to the 80:20 ratio you have going?
 
I'm getting close to my second round of dry hopping. My issue is I only have one keg so should I drop hop in the keg or add it in the primary?
 
I'm getting close to my second round of dry hopping. My issue is I only have one keg so should I drop hop in the keg or add it in the primary?

I've had excellent results just adding the full 6 oz right into the primary all at once. I swirl it around every day or 2 until I'm ready to keg it. It can be tricky racking to the keg though. I try to chill it for a day or two. I think I'll start taking out my out-post poppet when racking through the beverage out too. It can clog on hops.
 
Braufessor, this is what I was planning when brewing this as my next beer. On a somewhat related note regarding water. I was planning using 100% RO... any disadvantage with that or should I just stick to the 80:20 ratio you have going?

100% RO is probably best (simplest) especially if you don't know exactly what your water profile is etc. There is no "need" to use tap water necessarily, so the simplest and most consistent.
 
I'm getting close to my second round of dry hopping. My issue is I only have one keg so should I drop hop in the keg or add it in the primary?

You could put it all in the primary (but like sticky said - could make transfer more delicate). If you put it in the keg.... make sure you bag it or you will have all kinds of mess with the clogged keg posts.
 
Here's my latest. Ctz, Citra, mosaic, simcoe with 1318. Little diff grain bill than the original. This used 2 row, white wheat, flaked oats and barley, c10 and carapils. Thought I'd see if the barley amped up the haze otherwise I'd normally use flaked wheat, don't really know if there's that much difference between the two I think the cloudiness in this comes from predominantly from the yeast. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468976918.973749.jpgSomething about 1318 I always get and rather like is that it has this tangy, spicy thing that hits the sides of your tongue that I don't get or haven't got with any other yeast. I really like 1318 with this hop combo or it'll really accentuate any real fruity tropical hop combo. It's about dusk here so the color is actually lighter than what it shows but the haze and thickness remain constant.
 
Thanks for the tips. I was thinking of getting a paint strainer bag and use dental floss to keep the hop bag from dropping below mid way the keg. Hopefully that way I won't get any grass like flavors if the beer sits for more than two weeks or so.
 
I also plan on doing a co2 purged transfer to keg. I'm picking up the supplies I need tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes smoothly this weekend.
 
I've had excellent results just adding the full 6 oz right into the primary all at once. I swirl it around every day or 2 until I'm ready to keg it. It can be tricky racking to the keg though. I try to chill it for a day or two. I think I'll start taking out my out-post poppet when racking through the beverage out too. It can clog on hops.

I too have had great results with dry hops in the primary. My primary has a spigot at the 0.75 gallon mark on the bucket and transfer to the keg is extremely easy. Mostly debris-free beer goes into the keg. The first glass has sediment then it is good.
 
Wanted to stop in to share my recent brew that was inspired from reading through this entire thread even though it isn't a NE style IPA. I followed the hops schedule from this recipe except I used Mosaic/Citra/Simcoe and used a different grain bill that included 15% rye.

I would like to add that whoever says the amount of hops in this doesn't cause the haze is just wrong...The grain bill I used usually clears out within days in the keg and this is still completely hazy even having used US-05.

The aroma and flavor from the hops is amazing!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1469059666.950114.jpg

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1469059677.931268.jpg
 
Wanted to stop in to share my recent brew that was inspired from reading through this entire thread even though it isn't a NE style IPA. I followed the hops schedule from this recipe except I used Mosaic/Citra/Simcoe and used a different grain bill that included 15% rye.

I would like to add that whoever says the amount of hops in this doesn't cause the haze is just wrong...The grain bill I used usually clears out within days in the keg and this is still completely hazy even having used US-05.

The aroma and flavor from the hops is amazing!

View attachment 362920

View attachment 362921

Great looking beer. I think the amount of hops in a cooler whirlpool and in dry hop make a significant difference in the haziness. Not sure what the exact interaction is..... but hop oil in sub 180 whirlpool, in primary and big dry hop..... seems to be one of the 2-3 things to haziness in my opinion.

I wonder if the "type" of hops make a difference? Big oily hops like citra, Galaxy, etc?????

One thing I want to check a bit closer is pH. I want to brew precisely the same beer at 5.30 and 5.45 for preboil kettle pH and check the difference. I think final beer pH plays a factor. A lot of these beers finish toward a higher finish pH.
 
Braufessor, without going back through 1000 posts, have you (or anyone) ever used Mandarina Bavaria as one of the finishing hops? Thinking of going Citra/Mosaic/Mandarina Bavaria in the flameout, whirlpool and dry hop in equal quantities.
 
Braufessor, without going back through 1000 posts, have you (or anyone) ever used Mandarina Bavaria as one of the finishing hops? Thinking of going Citra/Mosaic/Mandarina Bavaria in the flameout, whirlpool and dry hop in equal quantities.


In my limited use of mandarins Bavaria it's a "delicate" hop that doesn't lend a ton of hop character so it may get washed out by the citra/mosaic combo
 
In my limited use of mandarins Bavaria it's a "delicate" hop that doesn't lend a ton of hop character so it may get washed out by the citra/mosaic combo

Thanks for the input. Do you think it would help to change the ratios? Maybe instead of 1/1/1 oz, go .75/.75 on the Citra/Mosaic and 1.5 on the MB? I really like MB in the brews I've tried it in, and think it would lend itself well to this style.
 
Braufessor, without going back through 1000 posts, have you (or anyone) ever used Mandarina Bavaria as one of the finishing hops? Thinking of going Citra/Mosaic/Mandarina Bavaria in the flameout, whirlpool and dry hop in equal quantities.

I have never used it. I do agree that it seems like it could get washed out by other hops like citra/mosaic. But, I have no experience with it - so you don't know if you don't try.
 
Has anyone put this into Beersmith - have a .bsmx file?

I don't currently. However, I am hoping to go back in and update some things in the OP sometime with some clarifications, recipe tweaks, etc. I have beer smith and have meant to put this recipe in it and perhaps I can attach it to the OP at that point. Might be a week or two before I get a chance though.
 
I am looking to throw this beer into the last of my brewing for an upcoming wedding. Can anyone tell me what the quickest turnaround time they have experienced/believe is possible for this beer? Will likely be bottle condition instead of kegging as the clarity obviously doesn't matter. Very excited to brew this though!
 
I am looking to throw this beer into the last of my brewing for an upcoming wedding. Can anyone tell me what the quickest turnaround time they have experienced/believe is possible for this beer? Will likely be bottle condition instead of kegging as the clarity obviously doesn't matter. Very excited to brew this though!

I did three weeks (keg) and it came out great. 2 weeks primary, 5 days dry hop, 2 days high psi in keg. Normally I like to let it sit in primary 3 weeks but I too was in a hurry.
 
Dan_k is this a partial mash or did you just steep the MO and flaked grains ?

I'm not entirely sure what the difference would be.
I mashed the grains in my treated water for 40 minutes trying for 152 degrees. Temperature varied a little.
 
Great looking beer. I think the amount of hops in a cooler whirlpool and in dry hop make a significant difference in the haziness. Not sure what the exact interaction is..... but hop oil in sub 180 whirlpool, in primary and big dry hop..... seems to be one of the 2-3 things to haziness in my opinion.

I wonder if the "type" of hops make a difference? Big oily hops like citra, Galaxy, etc?????

One thing I want to check a bit closer is pH. I want to brew precisely the same beer at 5.30 and 5.45 for preboil kettle pH and check the difference. I think final beer pH plays a factor. A lot of these beers finish toward a higher finish pH.

Brau what do you think final beer pH does to the final product. So I think I saw somewhere here maybe in the Treehouse Julius thread someone tested the pH and it was in the 4.5-4.8 range don't remember exactly. Just curious how the final pH would effect the final product.
 
Thanks guys! This stuff isn't gonna last long!





I actually used Denny's favorite as I had it on hand and it's tough for me to get Conan where I'm at unless I order it

That's interesting, beer looks great. I say that as I've considered using that yeast and I think it's one on the list that can really compliment this style. Looks like it does the job. Does it add any real yeast characteristics, like fruitiness or tart/ spiciness? I ask as I've never used Denny's before but those are some of the characteristics I get in 1318 in this style. It obviously floccs like 1318 and for reference you can see a pic of my recent beer with 1318 on page 111, they look pretty similar. How did u like the azacca, I used it once and wasn't impressed enough to keep it above the usual Citra, Galaxy, mosaic, simcoe hops
 
Brau what do you think final beer pH does to the final product. So I think I saw somewhere here maybe in the Treehouse Julius thread someone tested the pH and it was in the 4.5-4.8 range don't remember exactly. Just curious how the final pH would effect the final product.

I think that is part of what leaves the beer hazy......I can't say exactly why.... perhaps an interaction with yeast floc? Perhaps something to do with protein break material that keeps it in suspension? Maybe it is a part of the hop oil/polyphenol formation?? I am sure there could be several things at play at the same time.

Maybe it is not a cause.... maybe it is a result. Could the high dry hoping/polyphenol formation result in higher pH??

I also think that is probably an aspect of why these beers tend to be less shelf stable. I have found similar high finish pH (4.5-4.7) with my own NEIPA beers as well as other NEIPA. 4.5 is getting on the high end of a finished pH for a beer. Above that is definitely on the high end. 4.1-4.4 is much more in line with what you might typically find in most beer. Other typical styles finish lower.
 
I think that is part of what leaves the beer hazy......I can't say exactly why.... perhaps an interaction with yeast floc? Perhaps something to do with protein break material that keeps it in suspension? Maybe it is a part of the hop oil/polyphenol formation?? I am sure there could be several things at play at the same time.

Maybe it is not a cause.... maybe it is a result. Could the high dry hoping/polyphenol formation result in higher pH??

I also think that is probably an aspect of why these beers tend to be less shelf stable. I have found similar high finish pH (4.5-4.7) with my own beers as well as some others. 4.5 is getting on the high end of a finished pH for a beer. Above that is definitely on the high end. 4.1-4.4 is much more in line with what you might typically find in most beer.

Great post! Thanks for all the information and keep up the good work! If you had a blog, I'd definitely subscribe :D
 
Great post! Thanks for all the information and keep up the good work! If you had a blog, I'd definitely subscribe :D

Ha.... I am already too far behind on my "to do" list..... pretty sure there is no time for a blog:)

I actually have a bunch of NEIPA's in the fridge right now..... Trillium, Alchemist, The Veil, Sole, Other Half, Toppling Goliath, etc..... Might have to go pick up some more traditional IPA's - stone, Two Hearted, Sierra Nevada, etc. and Check the pH's on all of them as I drink them see how they compare and contrast. Might be interesting.
 
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